I actually only have second hand knowledge on this from reading pinside and RGP and people having great success with this part. I have been meaning to do this for a while. Just kept forgetting. Seeing this come up again reminded me to order the part and I did just that.

I will update here when I get it installed.

Stay tuned!

Question... Are the MMRR toppers all sold out? Any retailers have any left for sale?

I installed one on my Metallica Premium,and it was very easy. Not sure if this helps you or not?

Check with KingPinGames he has all 3 kits. Someone asked about buying just the RGB, so he might have one to sell.

LTG : )

May be listing my MMRRE soon if anyone is interested.

Ok I figured this out. And dang it was a pain. For anyone who has a 3D translite and you are having trouble getting the glass, 3D translite and light box in the channels (because it equates to 1/4" vs 3/16" channel, what I ended up doing was buying 1/4 round (must be round) wood dowels and working them in the channel. Then I took a heat gun and reset the design so that it was a bit larger than the stock 3/16". I may take a few times to get it right but in the end I was able to get the channels all on a back in. It was a tight fit back in the head too.

Well hope this helps anyone else that gets to enjoy this frustration. And, I do like the translite - it adds a bit of difference to the pin.

Dave

Whats everyone doing to prevent wear around the flipper buttons?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/162#post-6068655
That is what I was thinking of

I like the rounded protectors from Marco. They are a little thicker and larger. They cost more, $8 a pair. Pinball Life has the smaller rectangular ones for $3 or so. I’ve used those too. Either will protect that area from kid fingers or dirt. Whenever I buy a game that isn’t new, I change the flipper buttons too. Lots of colors to pick from or you can choose clear and put LEDs behind them. I use needle nose pliers to grab and turn the flipper button pal-nut holding them on. Pretty easy to change them. Have fun!

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MM will always be the best pinball machine IMO. I remember when it was like owning or driving a Ferrari if you played/owned one (back in the day).

And congrats to those that own Royale's, lucky SOB's for sure!!

He had one, SOLD 10 minutes before I called! Grrrrrr

I know they sell individual rgb led modules on the planetary pinball site if you really wanted to get into it you could make a harness - you just need one of the boards that comes with the rgb kit / topper or xl display to connect them to. I’m sure a bunch of people that bought the kits one at a time have the extra boards to sell.

These are the lights they use:

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-LMP-LEDRGB&Category_Code=GS-9991

And these are the style connectors:

https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/idc-connectors/5354879/

Umm............. He's looking for the topper.

LTG : )

Oh…. Ooops - When I saw Kingpin games mentioned I thought it was the guy who was looking for the RGB kit last week.

I appreciate your thorough response however. LOL

I only use the protectors by Titan Pinball
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=138
they are great and nearly invisible

Hello everyone, as a new owner of MMR-LE one of the small things that I dislike about the machine is the dreaded Merlin Saucer that often doesn't hold the ball and exits to the bumper side.

I researched this form and a few other google searches and found many potential fixes for this problem. I wanted to share with you my findings in hopes it can help someone else fix this issue for them as well.

Here is what didn't work -
I wanted to discuss it now incase you found this information also - I stumbled across a post (pictured below) where it states that if you move the guiding top wall post of this shot, a bit to the left it will ensure the ball strikes the C shaped stopper more dead center of the Merlin hole preventing the issue from happening. The problem with this method is that, as I tried this method; I found these instructions don't work for the MMR machines. Only for the older machines as the screws points and posts are different, in particular there is a plastic piece that needs to go on 2 posts (I drew them in red in a picture below) If you move to top wall post to the left, it won't align the holes for this plastic piece to be able to be put back on. As it was before I even attempted to move it, it was hard slotting this into the existing stock position screw posts. Moving this post is just not possible so I had to abandon this idea.

Analyzing the situation -
I took a slow-mo video of the ball missing the hole; there was no way I can start coming up with a fix until I saw the problem first hand.

A video of that slow mo-fail is here:

Here is another video where it worked but still highlights the problem:

As you can see in the video the ball seems to toilet bowl around the hole after hitting the C plate, hit the left side of the saucer and want to pop out the right side, similarly to how this happens in basketball.

Please keep in mind that in these videos I already installed some deadening rubber in hopes of slowing down the impact and bounce. Looking at this video It got me thinking that the only solution is to slow down the ball more but more importantly push down the ball into the hole.

I am adding a few pictures of the Deadening I installed with the 3M Sticky stuff, so you can see the material and how I attached it to the C striker plate; this helps but in my opinion only helped about 10% of the shots.

The other 85% of the solution, adding some more padding and ensuring the proper angle that this pad is attached correctly pushes the ball down into the hole and slowing the ball down even more to avoid a violent bounce off the wood.
In the end I ordered this padding part, I'm sure you can find it somewhere else but this is where I bought that worked.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/626-5078-00

You can see it installed in the closeup picture below. Now when I hit my shots, 95% of the time they will go in. The only time it doesn't if it wasn't truly a clean shot. I'm perfectly fine with this anomaly, I know nothing is ever perfect but this is the best it's ever been and I'm happy with the result.

Bonus Pic: My wife thought it was funny that as I removed screws, I drew a map of where exactly they go. This ensure I didn't ever make a mistake and I recommend anyone doing Pinball work to employ a similar tactic. It's easier on a magnetic marker safe surface, if you find one let me know I lost my old one; so this paper and tape will do for now.

Hope this helps someone out, in my opinion buy the pad and put it at the same almost 45% angle I have in my picture. I measured where the ball would hit and made sure it was slightly above to push down into the ball, kind of like a giant pushing the head down of his smaller mortals. This will fix it for most people, the deadening material just helps slow it down more but doesn't make that much of a difference, the pad at an angle is key.

Good luck everyone, sorry for the long but detailed post; I'm kind of new to the Pinball world and just want to contribute my part as you all have done for many years of this shared passion/hobby we all love.

3m Adhesive to make it stick (resized).jpg

Can't move left (resized).jpg

Deadening material (resized).jpg

Merlin Fix (resized).png

Padding (resized).jpg

Screw Map (resized).jpg

Love the slow motion sounds. Like a dungeon would sound

hi all,does anyone make a speaker panel decal at all? thank you

Question, I've noticed sometimes the Peasent Ramp doesn't register my shots to it. Not often but it has happened. Where is the solenoid that registers a successful pass. Is it the thing behind the castle and if so should I bend it a bit to catch better?

You sure you don't have a switch that needs adjusting ?

LTG : )

Is it me, or are the playfields used by CGC superior to some other newly released pins? My AFMr built in 2020 feels like glass, and my MMr built in 2017 still looks and feels almost new. My MM has about 1200 plays and not a bit of visible wear in the shooter lane or anywhere. I’ve had other brands this year, that with 100 plays the shooter lane showed wear, even with the trough power reduced way down. I’m very impressed with CGC build quality!

They make their own playfields. And cabinets.

LTG : )

Having a major issue with my MMR. First, important to know, I've moved recently. So, pin was moved from my basement, onto a moving truck, transported about 2000 KM's, offloaded into long term storage for 7 weeks, loaded back onto a truck, offloaded, and moved into my house. So, yes, that's lots of bouncing around!

Having said this, once I had an opportunity to play a game, I turned it on, booted absolutely no problem. Played ball one and two, got to ball three, mid way through, it just went completely dead.

Fuses at F1, F2, F3, F4 checkout fine. Fuses on the solenoid boards are all good (LED's are lit up on those boards). I'm not sure if there are LEDs on the PCB, but nothing lit there, nor any of the other boards. My repair skills are novice at the best, so I don't have a clue where to begin. Any assistance sure would be appreciated. I had to downsize my collection and this is one of two I kept............HELP! LOL

The metal box over the on/off switch area has a PCB wiith fuses, check the LEDs there.

Outlet good ? Power cord shoved into rear of the machine tight ? Try plugging something into service outlet, see if you have power that far. Then check connectors in rear of game around the transformer.

LTG : )

Not quite sure what you're talking about with the metal box. If you mean the little things you twist out, and there's fuses there, I have checked those and those are fine too. But I don't see any LED's. Unless you're talking the mesh covered one. I apologize but not clear on what you're saying. I've double check the powercord, it's fine. The power bar I have it plugged into is fine as well as I have my other pin plugged into it. And now for the grand finale....the service outlet. Unless I'm missing something, this doesn't look like an ordinary service outlet to me....not something I can plug into anyway. I also checked the connectors around the transformer, all seems to be in order. Pics attached for clarification.

Pic 1 F1 (resized).jpgPic 2 (resized).jpg

That is it.

The two greens ones that are lit, your fuses are fine. You have power that far.

You need a computer cord. Like this - https://www.microcenter.com/product/290727/micro-connectors-iec-60320-c14-male-to-nema-5-15r-female-monitor-power-adapter-1-ft-black

LTG : )

To clarify, All the lights on the playfield are dead? What about your display and backbox? You are getting power from the outlet with the LED's on your boards working.

I would start looking for connections under the playfield and in the cabinet that may have come loose. Give everything a good looking over.

I just moved my machine and now for some reason when I turn it on the white led under the dragon is on prior to full boot up, while all the other lights are off like normal until after boot up. Has anyone seen this before?

I also now all of a sudden am having problems with my castle gate not opening on that final hit. Unsure if it’s related but seems to fix itself when I let it do a full ball search (which I read about in other posts) although was never an issue before and now I’ve had to do it a few times in the last week.

780F58E2-B784-47F1-8BED-7E90204B2C8F (resized).jpeg

Turn it off. Lift playfield. Anything loose, out of place, shorting to metal ?

Something happened in the move.

LTG : )

Yeah. I’ve been looking it over closely but didn’t realize a short could cause this. Thx for the tip I’ll have to look even closer.

I took your advice, took the glass and played with the switches to see what activates a successful pass on the Peasant ramp. It was indeed the switch (I called it a solenoid) on the ramp behind the castle. I noticed it triggers when it raises high enough by contact with the ball. If the ball had enough speed the momentum would allow it to trigger. I simply bent the metal strip that touches the ball in a way that it's lower so that when the ball touches it, it won't need to be raised as high to trigger. It now works perfectly. Now all that's left is the I in the FIRE LANE I noticed is sometimes not triggering. I'll have to adjust that now. Thanks for your suggestion and advice.

Everything is dead with the exception of the few LED's on the boards that are lit. I've got nothing on the display or in the backbox. I've checked all the connectors, everything seems to be well connected. But I will have to look again obviously. Will report back.

When you power it up, are there any chimes from the speakers? Is the game booting up just no lights. Does anything happen when you press the diagnostic buttons?

Absolutely nothing happens, other than the LED's lighting up on the previously mentioned boards. Just the F1 -F4 board, and oddly enough the solenoid boards. That is the only thing that occurs.

Selling my MMRRE as we're likely moving within the year (sold 9/10 machines so far - MMRRE is the final pin). Empty nest now with kids all off to college, we have too much house for just my wife and I! Anyhow 38 plays in pristine HUO condition, send me a PM if interested (not sure if "for sale" posts are welcome in owners thread - apologies if this is discouraged).

IMG_1277 (resized).jpg

Sorry about losing all your games. Can you take the MMR to the new home. Sad that all of them are gone

Just bought a topper from a guy who upgraded to the Royal Edition version, not sure who makes these but I think it looks pretty good.

Got it sorted out. It must have been a loose connector. Absolutley nothing looked out of place, so I just pushed all connectors to make sure they were on nice and snug, turned on the pin, works like a charm. Thanks to those who provided suggestions and guidance, much appreciated!

Quick question. (Please help)
I’ve got an MMR (gold) and I want to install the color chip. I just recently got the color chip, but I’ve never upgraded the code since I received the machine when it 1st came out (low100’s w/gold trim). I did re-adjust the sling mechs from hitting the playfield wood.
Do I need to update the code b/f I install the color chip and where do I get that code update? Thanks in advance for any help or links.

No need to update firmware unless you plan on adding one of the Royal upgrades.

There was one update before the Royal, I remember doing, but don’t recall what was included.

However the color chip should just be a plug n play swap with the stock, under the playfield

I believe that update was to support the newer beaglebone boards.

To support the bigger display.

LTG : )

Wasn’t there a quick code update regarding flipper strength, screen tearing, audio cracking, or something minor like clock stuff in the beginning of the role out before the color update for the small screen? Does anyone remember?

You might be thinking of AFMR.

Here are the updates...There were a few small ones prior. Honestly it is just worth going to 3.0.0 so it is. all up to date with OS etc updates and if you do any mods.

V3.0.0 RELEASE NOTES
This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Added support for King of Payne Topper.
2) Added support for XL Display.
3) Added support for RGB LI LEDs.
4) Fixed bug preventing custom logo installation.

V2.0.1 RELEASE NOTES
This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Next generation graphics engine to support full color display upgrade and address previous screen tearing issue.
2) Addition of Castle Multiball jackpot voice call.
3) Modifications to real time clock.
4) Addition of adjustment for controlled playfield LEDs.
5) Addition of adjustment for trough coil strength.
6) Resolution of audio crackling issue.
V2.0.2 RELEASE NOTES
This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Fixed bug in OS causing date and time to reset.

V2.0.2a RELEASE NOTES
This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Updated installer to be compatible with new generation Beagle Boards.

Didn’t they also add cabinet speaker level control in v3.0.0?

Hi!

I added a blue trim to my MMR. It is the strangest blue - it seems to change its color depending on which direction you are looking at it. It may look dark blue, light blue, or sometimes even a bit green!

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