I think I may have gotten the wrong fuse. I used one of these 6.3A 20mm fuses I bought from Pinball Life. Is the fact that the one I used is rated to 125V a problem, instead of the 250V indicated in the manual’s fuse list (on page 1-57)?

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The current (A) rating is what is critical here. You can use either a 125v or 250v in a 110v application, but not the reverse. It is indeed a slow blow fuse. You can check out the data sheet here:

"GMC-6.3-R Bussmann / Eaton | Mouser" https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bussmann-Eaton/GMC-63-R?qs=9GX7soZQXxHVQQ8G3UlEFw%3D%3D

Having same speaker issue. If I changed the wires at the left speaker itself, what is the correct configuration?

See post 8527

LTG : )

If I understand correctly, I have to swap the grey and grey yellow wires. At the speaker g and gb are on neg and gy is on pos.

I removed them all from the molex connector and and plugged them in first to confirm it worked then reseated into the molex

Ok that was easier than I thought. Had to Google how molex connectors work lol.

So after upgrading the display to the XL version I am getting horizontal lines randomly flashing across the display. At least I haven't noticed a pattern yet. I opened a ticket with Chicago gaming but has anyone dealt with this problem before?

Do you have a color chip?
Did you update your MMr to the newest code?

Have you checked the cables are seated firmly? (top of the beagle bone is a micro hdmi that then runs to the display and is converted to dvi. make sure all those are tight and the dvi adapter is screwed down.

Is there a thread or talk anywhere of putting the XL display on a "classic" remake (any of them)?

I opened mine up today and similar to the Arcade 1up arcades, it is a basic video conversion box that takes inputs to the lcd panel plug. I have never seen the baords/plugs used on a classic version of the game, but since they use lcd's this upgrade to a XL should be pretty simple.....

I upgraded a 2015 LE to the XL display - I had to upgrade the firmware in order for it to work correctly. I only had mono color so I bought the color chip now it all works as expected.

I would defiantly update the firmware before install.

Pinball supernova has a great install video

I upgraded my Classic a Feb 2020 build. It was really easy. It was basically a MMr Royal cabinet and wiring. For the topper I just had to pop out the plugs and install the topper. All the holes were already there. Even the pop bumpers I just had to swap the LEDs in each for a RGB led. I did do the firmware update before starting. I can't remember which kits had the sd cards but the first one wasn't the latest firmware. When I tried the second SD card it was correct.

F you MMR, I’m updating the firmware!!

I did it with mine some weeks ago, very simple - but I had to do some adjustments as some things in the manual did not match my game. Still very simple.

I don't know if the original also has this problem, but after my castle gate broke and it got the 'castle gate stuck' error, it would not clear the error message. The manual states that after two successfull tests it should clear it, but after numerous successfull ones it still would show the error. The fix was very simple: you have to play a game and then it will clear it. Thought maybe someone would find this useful, as I was scratching my head yesterday when the error message would not clear

Lords, ladies and peasants (I am a peasant) I would like some help with a couple things on my 2015 MMr. First is that the left upper Joust switch doesn’t register when playing due to the ball barely coming into contact with the switch. If its not a clean shot, sometimes it will register. Has anyone bent this switch so it will get activated? Second, my right lower flasher above the merlin targets doesnt work. New bulb and connection seem solid. It’s possible that its a cold solder joint on the board, but I really dont want to pull that board off. Thoughts? I can live without the flasher, but need the left orbit to work so I dont have to always hit the Joust from the right.

I've searched the thread, and haven't found a good solution. When attempting the skill shot launch, the ball is sent very close to STDM. I can just hit it with the tip of the left flipper. This post has the appearance of having adjustment by the playfield, but it's just a single, tight hole. Reducing the solenoid strength helps a slight bit, but still not enough to move it towards having the ability to live catch or get a clean shot.

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Are you sure its level from right to left? That could cause it to be more to the center than left flipper. What is your pitch front to back?

It is level, and at 6.5°

Yes.

First be sure it is centered in the slot in the playfield so it isn't rubbing/dragging going up or down.

You can bend the arm of the switch up a tiny bit. Almost an art to it. So it works, yet doesn't trap the ball.

See the picture. Adjust where the black arrows point. Ignore red and white arrows. Yellow arrow points to tiny knob the arm pushes up and down in the switch body. Don't mess with it's action.

LTG : )

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Nearly 2 years after I let the #1 ranked game of all time leave my collection, for some reason, I finally brought it back just in time for my son to storm the castle. This quickly became his favorite.

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Thanks as always Loyd! I guess it just got bent down a little after all the plays. Its now working properly again.

Follow up to my issue with the skill shot:

I consulted with @LTG, and he agreed the best course of action was to move the end of the guide a bit. I thought I'd try a thinner post rubber to start, and it was enough. As you can see in the photos, the factory post held the guide off of the metal bushing at the base. The Stern sized replacement does not. I can now control the ball on the skill shot.

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Hey all,

Question for help please. I purchased a 3D MM translite and it won't fit the WPC95 channel for the MMRLE I have. I have searched and cannot find the specific channel people ended up using to get this to work. I also reached out to a fellow pinsider and they could not remember the specific place they got it from but they did state it worked. It appears the dimensions need to be 1/4 channel versus 3/16. This would be 1/8 glass, 1/16 translite and 1/16 light box. I did a search from the "usual vendors" and could not find a 1/4 width channel. Can anyone lead me to the appropriate channel trim that would work? Thank you so much!

Dave

So is there any final adjustment to keep balls from bouncing out of Merlin hole? I have the same problem. 3/4 of the shots bounce out which is very frustrating when you are trying to claim the extra ball.

Thanks!!

Richard

A little foam did me wonders.

Fast shots still usually bounce out, but normal and slower shots almost always are successful.

yup came to suggest adding a little foam to that metal angle piece. Easier than adjusting/bending the metal

Just a piece of normal target foam? Or is there something better to add to the Merlin scoop?

I used simple leftover sticky back foam from winterizing my house the year before.

beer seal, target foam, window/door insulation, kind of all the same just different size/squish/stick

Any chance someone has an uninstalled RGB Lighting Kit for an MMR that they'd be willing to part with? I had one ordered and it ended up getting cancelled. Thanks!

Check with KingPinGames he recently posted he had one of each kit, didn't want to break them up. But somebody was looking for one of the three and he might split them up.

LTG : )

Sorry. That person was looking for the RGB kit too.

LTG : )

All good thank you for trying!

How thick is the foam that you used? I tried thin (~1/16" thick) and that did not help much.
Did you put it on the whole 90 degree arc? Or just the more vertical part where the ball would impact?

Thanks so much for your advice!

I defiantly need this also

The problem is the bracket is made out of way too thin of metal. You can see this by bending it down slightly and shot is now good for a few games till it bends back. The best solution is to buy the Mantis assembly. It's made from stainless and won't bend like the factory one.

I'm not familiar with that part - do you have a link to it? Is it something that is in continuous production or made in batch and sold out?

Thanks very much!

https://mantispinball.com/product/medieval-madness-merlin-scoop/

LTG : )

Never mind - I found it pretty quickly. Should have looked harder before I posted
https://mantispinball.com/product/medieval-madness-merlin-scoop/

So just to be clear - when you replaced with the SS scoop, you didn't need foam? Did you need to adjust (bend) the new scoop before you got consistent captures? Do you get 100% or 90% or ??%?

Just want to make sure the $61 is worth it compared to foam solution.

Thanks for the valuable advice!

Best Regards,
Richard

This game is just awesome. Having so much fun adding mods and a little bling to it. I’m considering a midnight blue candy/powder coat also. I’m adding the LED strips behind the castle tomorrow. I added speaker lights today, but need to adjust them so the wire isn’t showing. Still looks fantastic. I love the wizard mod with the blue crystal ball in his hand. So many cool mods for an already loaded game!

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Get the XL display! It's beyond awesome.

XL display is a must have- also comes with the speakers already lit. The RGB lighting is great too and a pretty fun install. I also did red led troll eyes.

I regret not doing this when I had the chance. Now the kits are sold out. Apparently CGC won't be making anymore.

Hopefully when they do another run of games they will do a few more kits too

That would be great. Definitely a snooze you lose situation for me. Was on the fence way too long.

The Red Troll eyes is one of my favorite upgrades!!! A must do!

I bought a set of trolls from planetary for $36 and ordered some 3mm 12v LED’s and wired them directly to the flashers. $40 total to DIY the trolls. Or $4 if you don’t buy and extra set of trolls.

I did exactly the same thing. I wired them to the respective side flashers as well. With extra set of Trolls you can take your time to do it right. It is not an easy task getting the led's in the trolls but the red eyes add an extra troll meaness factor.

How hard was it to install the Mantis assembly? and can you report if that fixed the ball from bouncing out of the Merlin hole entirely or around what percentage.. Also are you using any pads to soften the hit or just straight metal from the Mantis piece..

Thanks in advance for this info.