Hey all, excited to share my pinball mod project with you.

I got this Medieval Madness (Remake - Standard) in March 2020 and have been working on it ever since. It had just 300 plays and plays amazingly, but I had lots of plans.

MM has always been my favorite game but having it set up in my living room meant I wanted it to be pristine.

I began by adding the RGB kit plus pinstadiums and started to really fall in love with the high contrast illustrations on the playfield, especially all the subtle and goofy nuances.

I keep making small tweaks, but things really started taking direction when I picked up brian-allen updated back glass and side art. It was a great upgrade and I quickly realized I wanted to take it that much further as I now found the cabinet graphics to feel outdated.

My first step was a few print tests, using a panoramic photo of the back glass with my iPhone 12. I did the left side only and through the process of the vinyl sticker and applying it as a test run, I learned a lot. I also learned that that new cabinet art comes off very easily so the machine can be converted back to its original state with no problems.

The entire cabinet art project took about 15 hours to design in illustrator, test, and apply. I had a bit of experience with vinyl so was able to get it on without any bubbles.

Some of the other major upgrades I’ve made include adding the, color display mod, shaker motor, and the XL display + premium sound (which was a tough $$ pill to swallow but a no brainer in the end).

I hope you enjoy my “Ye New Medieval Madness” and I would love to field any questions about this one-of-a-kind machine.

A big thanks to Brian Allen on the backglass art that inspired this, who to be clear, is not involved in this project in anyway.

Photo May 15, 10 53 21 AM (resized).jpgPhoto May 15, 12 02 26 PM (resized).jpgPhoto May 15, 10 53 54 AM (resized).jpgPhoto May 15, 11 07 15 AM (resized).jpgPhoto May 15, 12 00 25 PM (resized).jpgPhoto May 15, 12 01 35 PM (resized).jpgPhoto May 15, 11 58 45 AM (resized).jpgPhoto May 15, 11 07 31 AM (resized).jpgPhoto May 15, 11 58 38 AM (resized).jpgPhoto May 15, 11 07 04 AM (resized).jpg

NOTE: I thought that I had permission to scan and print Brian’s artwork, but I misunderstood him, and I do not.
Brian created the artwork for the backglass and the side blades, but not the cabinet and backbox artwork. I created this by scanning Brian’s work and photoshopping it together.

I don’t know why anyone would cover up the cab on a Medieval Madness but that said, this is actually pretty cool, especially if it comes off clean and you can return to stock if you ever want to. Great job!

Wow!!! I have Brian's Translite as well and my first thought was this has to be his work.

I gotta admit I love it!!!

it *is* Brian’s work...as long as he doesn’t sell it to others, I imagine Brian wouldn’t mind...I wouldn’t do this to mine, but it does look great - nice work!

I talked to Brian a bit about it. He was aware I was working on it but it's in no way an official collab. Brian if you want Illustrator files though let me know! I was never able to confirm that the original MM was the same size, but happy to work with anyone here to confirm if you want to explore making these for others.

An original MM is the exact same size.

Thanks for the info! I need to do this! How were the wires spliced into the RGB-strings? Where they just soldered in, or do you need some kind of a connector there as well?

Just install the red connector, feed through the pops, route and cable tie wires and solder to the end of existing strings.
There is extra wire at the end of the RGB strings, just solder the wires to those.

Thanks!

How responsive is CGC when you have an out of warranty problem? I read in another thread that they pretty much hang you out to dry when you have an out of warranty problem.
I've been considering buying a used HUO pin made buy them,but if support was hard to get, maybe I'll scrap the idea
Thanks in advance
Ralph
P.s
I tried calling them last week,and I couldn't even leave a message.

Open a ticket on the website. Tech support is great.

Out of warranty, you'd have to buy parts. Not from CGC, they don't sell parts, only supply things covered under warranty.

Your call didn't go to me. Hit "0" for operator and ask for a person.

LTG : )

Thank you LTG

Other things to keep in mind - pinballs aren't antique grandfather clocks or pianos. These things were meant to be on route and played by dozens of people on a daily basis. All to say, they're not a fragile piece of jewelry. The electronic components on the new pinballs or CGC remakes are light years ahead of where they were late 90's. They run cooler and use less power... results in less issues and failures.

Pinside has been around for a long time now with a great community......guys like LTG and others are very helpful if you do come across issues.

All to say - I wouldn't shy away from any modern HUO pin because it's out of warranty. If you remove the mechanical side - just like a computer if a pinball is going to fail......likely to fail in that first year. Especially if you're not moving it around etc.

On the mechanical side - do regular cleaning maintenance and inspect mechanical parts for wear and replace when needed.

There are pinballs that are what half a century old now that are still going strong. New ones shouldn't be any different.

Thank you for your help and insight. I'm really hoping that CGC does another run of the Medieval Madness Royal edition . I can't buy one HUO because the market for them is out of my price range!

The Royal editions are done. If they do more it will be classic and specials.

Any MMr owners interested in selling?

Willing to travel up to 3-4 hours from Washington DC.

Cash or I also would consider involving my mint Attack from Mars SE with alternate translite and matching side art by FlyDesign ND eat at Eddies mod.

I have a mm se edition. How difficult is it to put a CGC topper on it. Thanks

Here are the instructions.

LTG : )

King of Payne Topper Kit Instructions rev 3.pdf

Click on the picture and it should open.

LTG : )

I did it on my LE, not too bad, but I for went their template for the topper and made sure the topper fit on the top the way I wanted it. If you go a page or so bad, someone mentioned the template pushed their topper over the lip and so it sat funny. Also use painters tape where you have to drill to help flaking off the wood/paint.

Does anyone know if mm topper is shorter than Monster bash’s? My mb topper didn’t fit due to my low ceiling and probably needed 1/4 inch clearance.

No.

LTG : )

Noone knows, or the topper isn't shorter?

"Yes."

Someone DOES know, or the topper IS shorter?

.. I'm going to put Clue on now.

My king of Payne topper is roughly 7 7/8 tall. Maybe someone in the MB forum can measure that one

No, it isn't shorter.

LTG : )

I have a MMR LE with the xl display / enhanced sound installed and during game play it sounds like most if not all of the audio is coming from the right speaker. Is this normal ?

Had the same thing when I installed the XL display kit. The Speaker Adapter cable provided does not work correctly with some machines. I cut off the connector closest to the display (.062) to make it easier to try different combinations. The attached diagram is what worked for me (Grey from display to Grey/Yellow, Grey/Black from display to Grey, and Grey/Yellow from display to Grey/Black). You might avoid cutting the molex connector off if you can remove the pins and rearrange them.

This is what worked for me.

2274382B-D0CE-45B7-BF08-6C1DAB87CEEE (resized).jpeg

Thank you! Will give it a try and repot back.

Exact same wire combo fixed mine too. Thanks so much !

Great. Glad it worked out. Amazing how much better it sounds when both speakers actually work!

Makes me wonder if other people don’t realize they’re only getting sound from one speaker….

When I first got the game I had it in my garage while I installed the topper, RGB kit and XL display And never noticed until I moved it into my game room. In the smaller space between other games. It took me almost two months to notice.

Thanks for posting this, now I'm going to have to check my sound. I'm being super lazy here, but is there a diagram that shows what signals are on each of those wires?

The molex connectors in the image are labeled right left and common. I removed the male molex pins from the connector inserted them into the female connector and verified the rewiring worked then put them back into the molex connector In the correct order.

An alternative would have been to desolder the wires from the back of the speakers and correct them there

pasted_image (resized).jpeg

If you have an LE do not use the PCB board mounting templates they wont work well for you; also verify your topper mounting template before drilling any holes or your topper may extend beyond the front of your head.

Other thoughts:
My kit contained a 1-1/4" hole saw. I did contact CGC about this and they said "we ran out of the 1-1/2" hole saws but the one included in the kit is high quality and will work fine." It was made in China so I just threw it away.

There is a great install video of the topper/ XL display / RGB kit on an LE by pinball supernova. They show all of the issues and I ran into every one of them on my own install.

Interesting, I am not at home to check my sound but will have to check this out when I get home in a week. I have a sub hooked up to my MMRLE so I have not noticed if sound is only coming out of one speaker.

I believe the issue only effects MMRLE with the XL display installed. Both speakers worked on the original display.

I did install the XL display and speaker setup. So my setup is probably off balance as well. Just harder to tell with the sub-woofer blasting away.

Issue is not just the LE. I have a Standard game, and after installing the XL display I was disappointed with the sound quality and within a few minutes realized only the right speaker was working. I contacted CGC and they said it was an “anomaly” affecting some games. I asked for the schematic for the adaptor cable and modified the connections per their suggestion. Don’t know how widespread the problem is, hopefully it’s rare.

If I remember correctly when I installed the XL display it came with a small adapter cable to go between and connect the 3 pin molex to the 4 pin molex connector and it was labeled as if needed in the instructions. I’m thinking all the games that need the adapter cable might need re wiring.

I seem to remember that as well.

Just played a game after fixing the speaker wiring anomaly and in addition to the left speaker now working there is a lot more bass from the cabinet subwoofer. At times I couldn’t tell if it was the sub or the shaker motor.

they look the same to me

20210612_111915 (resized).jpg

I ran into an issue with the solenoids stopped working a couple of weeks ago. I replaced a blown fuse (6.3A 250V slow blow) on the power supply board, which fixed the issue temporarily. Now the fuse has blown again, which leads me to suspect that there is another issue. Any ideas for how to discover what might be causing the multiple blown fuses?

Check what coils the fuse protects. Start there. Bad coil ? Coil lugs close to metal and shorting ? Start with the auto launch coil, see if it's lugs hit the lockdown bar receiver when in the game and check the base of the coil for burns or problem with the windings.

LTG : )

I just checked the sound in my MMRLE with XL display installed and the sound is equal out of both speakers. I have not looked at the wiring but when I installed it I just followed the directions. Wonder if there was an issue that was discovered and corrected. I ordered and installed my XL display about 4 months ago.

Interesting, I ordered and installed mine last month - but I’m not sure of the build date of my kit. Also I think only the games that need the optional speaker adapter potentially have the issue.

What time frame would you guess they'd do another run of MMr? I know it's just a guess but I was hoping it'll be in the next few years.

Maybe call an authorized distributor. They usually have some info on what running when and whether they can get a game down the line or not.