(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

6 years ago


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There are 8,875 posts in this topic. You are on page 170 of 178.
#8451 7 months ago
Quoted from ktm450:

I ordered these RGBs:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-LMP-LEDRGB&Category_Code=GS-9991
And these clear caps:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-9007-13
And some of these red connectors:
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/idc-connectors/5354879/
You need to drill out the holes the wires go through very slightly. Don’t go overboard as the lugs are for alignment of the pop bumper body.
You need a longer screw and have to make a small spacer for each.
I then connected 2 pops to string ‘right 3’ and one to string ‘right 2’, giving a total of 6 lights per string.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice, this is my plan, I have the rgbs and the clear covers but haven’t started the mod yet.

#8452 7 months ago

I installed the RGB GI kit and am wondering if it would be okay to plug one of the original GI strings back into the board and use it to power some mods that plug into 6.3v ?

#8453 7 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

I installed the RGB GI kit and am wondering if it would be okay to plug one of the original GI strings back into the board and use it to power some mods that plug into 6.3v ?

I did this. I used the old connector and plugged it into the green board to power my merlin and trough light.

#8454 7 months ago

Painted the speaker trim gold to match the armor.

473DD2C0-91E5-49E6-B826-D110AB62DAB2 (resized).jpeg
#8455 7 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

Painted the speaker trim gold to match the armor.
[quoted image]

what logo do you have in your dmd?

the color speaker trim looks great!

#8456 7 months ago

On the speaker panel kit for the royal upgrades.... is the speaker lights only blue or are the supposed to be RGB?

#8457 7 months ago
Quoted from J_Striker:

. is the speaker lights only blue

This. Only blue.

You could search this thread on how to make them RGB.

LTG : )

#8458 7 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

what logo do you have in your dmd?
the color speaker trim looks great!

I have a Williams logo that I found in the monster bash remake thread

#8459 7 months ago
Quoted from J_Striker:

On the speaker panel kit for the royal upgrades.... is the speaker lights only blue or are the supposed to be RGB?

Yup, they are blue unless you do the "mod"

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/151#post-5909393

Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

I have a Williams logo that I found in the monster bash remake thread

Mmm, ya me too. Kinda lovin it. I need to do my rgb pops, but my mantis castle lock and merlin protectors came in....ohhhh man what a gem of a game.

#8460 7 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Yup, they are blue unless you do the "mod"
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/151#post-5909393

Mmm, ya me too. Kinda lovin it. I need to do my rgb pops, but my mantis castle lock and merlin protectors came in....ohhhh man what a gem of a game.

I need to do the RGB pops too. I went with a carbon fiber cliffy for the Merlin and have a mantis on the way for the castle.

#8461 7 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

I need to do the RGB pops too. I went with a carbon fiber cliffy for the Merlin and have a mantis on the way for the castle.

I'll probably do the cf cliffy as well on merlin..... mantis's are usually inside and cliffs are outside so you can sometimes (depends on location) double up. The castle one is really needed as that bare wood takes a beating. I did the full cliffy kit on the MMR except merlin as he didn't have that one yet. the under castle ones aren't as bad as you'd think.....

#8462 7 months ago

thinking of selling my MMRE - what's the going rate for one of these bad boys these days??

#8463 7 months ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

thinking of selling my MMRE - what's the going rate for one of these bad boys these days??

Royal? Mmm idk about $14k? But prices seem to be in flux with some random game sales that were higher than usual. I think earlier this year they were about 11-12k

#8464 7 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Royal? Mmm idk about $14k? But prices seem to be in flux with some random game sales that were higher than usual. I think earlier this year they were about 11-12k

ok - 14K is not bad actually - maybe I should be like all these other jokers asking big $$ and go 20K to start hehe

#8465 7 months ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

ok - 14K is not bad actually - maybe I should be like all these other jokers asking big $$ and go 20K to start hehe

Idk, they retailed at 10k…

#8466 7 months ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

ok - 14K is not bad actually - maybe I should be like all these other jokers asking big $$ and go 20K to start hehe

If nib, then probably. Seems lots of folks looking for a nib MMRRE.
Listings for used on Pinside marketplace have been closed after 1 day of posting on average. 15-16k seems to sell quick.

#8467 7 months ago

My castle back door is missing one of the screws. Looks like they go in from the bottom up. Does anyone have the procedure for removing the front of the castle so I can replace that screw ?

#8468 7 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

Does anyone have the procedure for removing the front of the castle so I can replace that screw ?

Take the two tower tops off. One screw each. Then pull the castle front straight up. That's it.

LTG : )

#8469 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Take the two tower tops off. One screw each. Then pull the castle front straight up. That's it.
LTG : )

Thanks LTG!

Much easier than my way. I removed the moat from below and can see the screws. I’m going to put it back together and remove the castle per your instructions.

#8470 7 months ago

What would a one owner HUO MMr with the royal upgrades and black trim be worth?

#8471 7 months ago
Quoted from guss:

What would a one owner HUO MMr with the royal upgrades and black trim be worth?

A standard plus black trim and the upgrades? I’d guess $9500 - $10k maybe... thinking like $7500 for the base game and $2k for the upgrades?

I mean you don’t really know until you throw it out there.

#8472 7 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

I’d guess $9500 - $10k maybe..

Agreed.

#8473 7 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

A standard plus black trim and the upgrades? I’d guess $9500 - $10k maybe... thinking like $7500 for the base game and $2k for the upgrades?
I mean you don’t really know until you throw it out there.

I guess I'll keep it. I was thinking if the price was to good to refuse I would put up with the Wife Bitching. LOL

#8474 7 months ago
Quoted from guss:

I guess I'll keep it. I was thinking if the price was to good to refuse I would put up with the Wife Bitching. LOL

Lol. That’s the MM market problem. Everyone’s keeping theirs. Says tons about the title! More and more ‘wanted’ ads.

#8475 7 months ago
Quoted from underlord:

Lol. That’s the MM market problem. Everyone’s keeping theirs. Says tons about the title! More and more ‘wanted’ ads.

Hey first person with $20K can have my real deal MMRE - for another 10K I could be convinced to throw in it's sister MBLE

#8476 7 months ago
Quoted from underlord:

Lol. That’s the MM market problem. Everyone’s keeping theirs. Says tons about the title! More and more ‘wanted’ ads.

I wish they would make more then. I actually want a standard. I was just a little late to the game.

#8477 7 months ago
Quoted from gorditas:

I wish they would make more then. I actually want a standard. I was just a little late to the game.

You’ll get it. Hell I’ve waited since 2005 to get my MM.

#8478 7 months ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

Hey first person with $20K can have my real deal MMRE - for another 10K I could be convinced to throw in it's sister MBLE

Why sell cheap? Greatest title ever, greatest example of that title, ever. $40k by Xmas.

#8479 7 months ago

One. Billion. Dollars.

#8480 7 months ago
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#8481 7 months ago
Quoted from guss:

What would a one owner HUO MMr with the royal upgrades and black trim be worth?

It has cliffy and mantis protectors and lit troll eyes and lost plastic and fluorescent plastic protectors and shaker motor.

#8482 7 months ago

Could someone please tell me how to remove the exploding tower assembly? Thanks so much

#8483 7 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

Could someone please tell me how to remove the exploding tower assembly? Thanks so much

I could tell you. But then I'd have to kill you so the secret doesn't get out.

Look straight down at the towers. See the four screws holding the metal base on ? Cut outs in the clear plastic so you can get in there to remove them.

Remove the four screws. Then the whole shebang easily lifts off in one unit. Easy to work on at a table or work bench. Easy to put back in. Stick it in there, replace the four screws.

Done deal. Enjoy your game.

LTG : )

#8484 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

I could tell you. But then I'd have to kill you so the secret doesn't get out.
Look straight down at the towers. See the four screws holding the metal base on ? Cut outs in the clear plastic so you can get in there to remove them.
Remove the four screws. Then the whole shebang easily lifts off in one unit. Easy to work on at a table or work bench. Easy to put back in. Stick it in there, replace the four screws.
Done deal. Enjoy your game.
LTG : )

Thanks so much LTG!

#8485 7 months ago

Does MMR LE 2015 from CGC have a method to dump audit electronically (like modern Stern do to USB stick)? Or do you just have to write them down as you scroll through menu? I bought MMRLE (in transit to me now) and I like to record usage information. Thanks for any hints!

#8486 7 months ago
Quoted from rhampo:

Does MMR LE 2015 from CGC have a method to dump audit electronically (like modern Stern do to USB stick)? Or do you just have to write them down as you scroll through menu? I bought MMRLE (in transit to me now) and I like to record usage information. Thanks for any hints!

I made a google sheet to track my play including when I reset the plays. MM plays were reset 2 different times because of a software update and also replacing a defective contoller board. I didn't reset IJ for some reason but noted the plays that were on it and subtracted them to get my plays since.
pasted_image (resized).png

#8487 7 months ago
Quoted from rhampo:

Or do you just have to write them down as you scroll through

Write them down is the only way.

LTG : )

1 week later
#8488 6 months ago

So should I try and feed the current broken spring back through or get a new spring. Figured I would ask before taking it apart.

C73E263A-6FA4-4EAA-A6F7-A710A8770CA6 (resized).jpeg
#8489 6 months ago
Quoted from jathomp22:

So should I try and feed the current broken spring back through

Oh yeah. That would be a lot of fun.

4 screws hold the whole tower assembly on. Easy to remove. Easy to work on.

I'd remove it, bend the last loop of the spring over. Hook it on again. Put the tower assembly back on and put the four screws back in.

LTG : )

fix (resized).JPGgoodasnew (resized).JPG
1 week later
#8490 6 months ago

A friend has a MMR that I am trying to help him with. The gate is not holding open when it should.

The optos are working and registering hits, but when it comes time for the gate to open it... raises and fall closed quickly.

In test mode the error code is "Gate stuck Closed" or something like that. Everything seems intact visually, the optos operate correctly and the gate moves without restriction. It does not appear to be a mechanical problem. It seems the the hold circuit of the coil is not working to keep the door open after the solenoid fires. All the wiring etc. seems in place. Any ideas where to start?

#8491 6 months ago
Quoted from smailskid:

In test mode the error code is "Gate stuck Closed"

Page 1-54 and 1-55 in the manual lists errors and what has to happen to clear them.

Most likely a switch isn't working when hit when it should.

LTG : )

#8492 6 months ago

Thanks Lloyd.

IIRC, in test mode I rolled the ball against the gate and it stated "Castle gate test failed". Both moat entrance and gate entrance optos registered correctly. What would have "failed" if the opto is registering?

#8493 6 months ago
Quoted from smailskid:

What would have "failed" if the opto is registering?

The switch under the playfield on the green plastic moat isn't getting hit by the ball after it rolls past the gate.

Check if it's loose, or fallen off.

In tests and game play, the gate does go up and down ?

LTG : )

#8494 6 months ago

When it says the test has failed....the gate is down. (Maybe this is why is says failed...because the ball isn't triggering a switch past the gate?)

During gameplay the gate raises and then falls very quickly instead of staying open. .... The game thinks the gate is open..

#8495 6 months ago
Quoted from smailskid:

During gameplay the gate raises and then falls very quickly instead of staying open. ....

I'd concentrate on the moat switch, maybe stuck closed ?

LTG : )

#8496 6 months ago
Quoted from smailskid:

During gameplay the gate raises and then falls very quickly instead of staying open

Also that coil has three lugs like a flipper coil. Maybe a broken wire at the coil for the hold ? Go over the solder joints at the lugs, especially the thin wire from the coil windings to the lug - easy to have a crack or break you can't see.

Then follow the wires to the driver board that coil plugs onto. ( turn game off ) that driver board is held on by screws to the huge board below the playfield. Remove the screws, no need to unplug all the connectors. Unplug that driver board from the huge board, a row of ten pins on one side plugs them together. Then plug the board back in and push the tops of those pins in a bit to seat the driver board into the huge board good.

LTG : )

#8497 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Also that coil has three lugs like a flipper coil. Maybe a broken wire at the coil for the hold ? Go over the solder joints at the lugs, especially the thin wire from the coil windings to the lug - easy to have a crack or break you can't see.

Cool. That is what I was thinking. The hold circuit is somehow broken. I will investigate

Quoted from LTG:

Then follow the wires to the driver board that coil plugs onto. ( turn game off ) that driver board is held on by screws to the huge board below the playfield. Remove the screws, no need to unplug all the connectors. Unplug that driver board from the huge board, a row of ten pins on one side plugs them together. Then plug the board back in and push the tops of those pins in a bit to seat the driver board into the huge board good.
LTG : )

Do they have board versions where the driver board does not plug into the large board? I remember looking for this (I saw this advice in another thead) but didn't see it.....

#8498 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd concentrate on the moat switch, maybe stuck closed ?
LTG : )

I will look into this.

#8499 6 months ago
Quoted from smailskid:

Do they have board versions where the driver board does not plug into the large board? I remember looking for this (I saw this advice in another thead) but didn't see it.....

The Royal, maybe others ? Have the driver board in the head like AFMR and MBR.

LTG : )

#8500 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Also that coil has three lugs like a flipper coil. Maybe a broken wire at the coil for the hold ? Go over the solder joints at the lugs, especially the thin wire from the coil windings to the lug - easy to have a crack or break you can't see.
Then follow the wires to the driver board that coil plugs onto. ( turn game off ) that driver board is held on by screws to the huge board below the playfield. Remove the screws, no need to unplug all the connectors. Unplug that driver board from the huge board, a row of ten pins on one side plugs them together. Then plug the board back in and push the tops of those pins in a bit to seat the driver board into the huge board good.
LTG : )

LTG thank you for all the helpful information on MM and many other games

There are 8,875 posts in this topic. You are on page 170 of 178.

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