Just got a 2015 LE and I’m getting a lot of bounce over and rejects from the Merlin hole are there any adjustments or tweaks to help it capture the ball?

Lower flipper strength, or raise playfield pitch.

LTG : )

Bend the bracket behind saucer down a bit. Doesn't last long. Made out of way to thin metal stock. i am going to be replacing mine with this https://mantispinball.com/product/medieval-madness-merlin-scoop/

I added the RGB GI and the XL display. I’m trying to remove the RGB speaker light wires from the molex connector below so I can add them the RGB plug so I’m not stuck with just blue speaker lights. What is the best way to remove the wires from the molex plug without damaging the pins.
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Flip it over. Push the metal tab in, gently pull wire and pin out.

LTG : )

Thanks LTG worked perfectly!

Can anyone please tell me where to find the Williams logo and the process of how to add it to the XL display? Thanks so much!

Check the MBR thread for logo. Instructions in the MBR manual. You can download from the CGC website.

LTG : )

Found it! Installed and working - thanks AGAIN LTG

The GI kit has a main board the topper plugs into.

oh neat, didn't know this was a thing..... I finally got around to ordering the topper and XL....mmmm going to be a sexy mmr. I got some parts for the pops rgb....see how it goes.

Installed the Topper, XL Display with speaker RGB working and Subwoofer and installed the RGB strip and the back of the cabinet all working perfectly. Just have to do the rgb under the playfield to complete it.

I highly recommend the pinball supernova install video for anyone attempting the install - every potential issue they brought up I had- saved me a lot of time.

I have skimmed their video a few times. Don't recall what exact issues, as I have only installed the gi kit, which i ran into some issues on. I'll check it out again, but yeah, i'll need to hook up the speaker rgb as well.

Main issues were -
subwoofer screws are too short
The board mounting location per template was too low for topper wires to reach
You have to remove the knocker to install the topper

One thing not mentioned - the topper sits too far forward. Hangs over front edge almost half an inch I moved the template back just a little before I drilled the holes

I ran into this issue as well and still need to get longer ones. What size did you use?

which version of MMR do you have? I guess there are different board sets used in the game as well? Like the original LE run vs the standards etc.

I’m not sure I took the original screw to Home Depot and bought them 1/4” longer

I have an original run LE. The kit includes different mounting templates based on which board you have. The template for the original run games sets the RGB board an inch and a half to low for the topper cables to plug in. I just completed the RGB lighting upgrade and there is more than enough slack on those cables to move the board higher to accommodate the topper.

For the RGB upgrade I highly recommend reading a few pages back on this thread there is a post about using a molex connector instead of wire nuts which works perfectly and gives a factory appearance.

On the power switch board in the bottom of the cabinet there is a plug to accept a PC power cord what is that used for ?

Service outlet. Trouble light. Soldering iron. Nuclear reactor.

LTG : )

Thanks that’s what I was hoping - so I can just put a gender changer like the one linked below on it and use it?

StarTech.com 1ft Standard Computer Power Adapter Cord (IEC 60320 C14 Male to NEMA 5-15R Female) - 10A - Black - Wall Power to PDU, Monitor & Computer AC Power Cable (PAC100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00066HQ50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6V4D8PQ3KQCEXQYKVMNP

Yes

For the pop bumper lights? Iirc that was the only spot for wire nuts....

Oh man well I forgot where I mounted my board relative to the template.... parts come next week, I guess we shall see!

Yes kind of on pop bumpers. When instructions say to leave gi strings R2 and R3 hanging, instead of cutting all of the wires at the terminal block and using wire nuts, just cut the wire as close as you can to the last light sockets in each of these strings. Solid yellow and solid orange go together and connect to grey on the supplied cable. White with orange stripe and white with yellow stripe go to white on the supplied cable. That cable plugs in to the nearest node board and then you can leave the pop bumpers as is no need to cut them free from the terminal block .

Look at post # 7810 in this forum for step by step pictures.

There were also wire nuts for the sub woofer but I just desoldered the wire from old subwoofer and soldered to new subwoofer

What’s the proper way to remove the Troll assemblies so I can do the troll eye mod. Thanks

Left side you need to remove the wireform over it.

Under playfield disconnect troll head switch connector. Remove the hex nut on the collar holding the troll carriage to the plunger. Lower playfield. Lift troll carriage up, and lean left so bar that hits the up down switch clears the playfield. It's out.

LTG : )

Does anyone know what size screw holds the switches in place for the ramps? I am missing one of them.

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I believe it’s a #2-56 x 1/2”

I just pulled off reinstalling the Damsel tower shot switch that loosened itself and fell out. Without disassembling the whole game. Removed the back board was the only thing I took off. You can’t see what you are doing. You barely have enough room to slip a screw driver through to tighten the screws. Only thing tougher so far was putting the Troll face back on after that screw loosened up and fell out. Without removing that whole assembly.

Mmmmm Royal with le

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Noticed during first ball play that the castle gate wouldn’t stay up after two hits on the gate. Gate went up but immediately fell down. No immediate credit dot. Ran gate test by rolling ball into gate and it passed. Checked gate coil lugs and reconnected connector. Played again, no change, but finally got credit dot alert, “Check castle gate stuck closed”. Castle gate moves up/down manually from underneath playfield. I don’t see a switch that tells the gate coil it is up/down. Where do I start? Thanks

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Under the playfied - rear of the green plastic moat. See if it's loose, fell off, or needs adjusting so the ball hits it.

If gate doesn't stay up, ball isn't getting where it needs to get to.

Check wiring to three coil lugs, make sure the connector is plugged onto the driver board.

LTG : )

What are the correct color bulbs for the 2 spotlights near the castle ?

Thanks for the reply. Everything thus far looks good but still not working. The scenario was; during the initial easy first castle mode, I hit the drawbridge and it lowered, then I hit the lowered gate twice, which should obviously raise the gate and keep it up, but it only briefly raised, then fell back down before I could get the ball into the castle to destroy it. Subsequent, multiple hits on the gate would not raise it again. So I’m not sure I explained it correctly enough previously to say the issue doesn’t appear, (in my uneducated guess), that the issue isn’t on what’s going on in the backside of the gate, but perhaps on the gate itself? Or...

You explained it good. I have to try and explain the game has no idea where the gate is. Only that a switch isn't getting trigger by a ball when the gate is up and the ball is rolling to it.

Fix the gate. Pretty simple mech. Coil is like a flipper coil. Three wires for power and hold. Hold isn't working. Check solder joints at coil, especially the thin wires from the coil itself to the lugs, and also go over the connector to the driver board for the gate coil. Reseat it, check for pins sticking up from it and not pushed it tight.

LTG : )

Pretty sure “yellow” but I’ll go look

Edit: look yellow ish/orange.

image (resized).jpg

Thanks! When mine came it had the correct yellow lights and I noticed a few screen shots on pinside where the owners changed them to white, so I thought mine may have been incorrect and switched to white which are too bright. Defiantly switching back.

Original MM had #555 bulb and an ivory colored condom on it. Kind of an off white.

LTG : )

Wired up the pops today, bit of work but well worth the effort
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Looks great! Where did you find the rgb lights for the pops?

Can we make this a key post? Took me a day and a half to find it again... but now I have rgb speakers!

have fun with it

tom

I tried Drop dead foam, both long and short, for the scoop and had problems with ball kicking out. Not to mention that I still got just as many bounce outs.

I have mine I think at 6.5, per the mfg bubble placement. What degree pitch should I change to?

Also, with decreasing the flipper, what's the default setting and what should I set it to? Will decreasing cause ball not to go up right ramp?

thx LLoyd

Thanks for posting that! When I heard about all these mods, I really was "warm" on them, they seemed expensive and well MM is all gameplay right? Well these mods are like heated seats in a car. If you never have them, you never know what you're missing out on, but once you have/play/use them, you NEED them. They seem to work great together and immerse you into the game/color. I'm not into "clown" puke but they do so well at changing color at pauses or when you don't need to flip, then going back to normal during gameplay/flipper use. MM will be the last game I ever get rid of and I'm glad I did these.

Just need to put the rattle tape on the glass, enable the shaker again (maybe low this time) and do the rgb pops w/ clear caps. Oh and get the williams logo on the display

So I have a MMr LE w/ color upgrade. Bought all the Royale upgrades and currently installing the display and speaker panel. Installed as instructed and then it say to turn game on and test to make sure everything is working. This is what I got on boot up. I have reseated all the HDMI connections. Not sure where to go from there.

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Update the CGC software to 3.0.

I did the exact same thing, lol.

Thanks my man.... now I have to buy a new memory card for the update

nickle and dime..... nickel and dime

There should have been one included with the topper or the Gi kit if you bought them, plus your color chip included one too IIRC.

I ordered these RGBs:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-LMP-LEDRGB&Category_Code=GS-9991

And these clear caps:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-9007-13

And some of these red connectors:
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/idc-connectors/5354879/

You need to drill out the holes the wires go through very slightly. Don’t go overboard as the lugs are for alignment of the pop bumper body.

You need a longer screw and have to make a small spacer for each.

I then connected 2 pops to string ‘right 3’ and one to string ‘right 2’, giving a total of 6 lights per string.
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Does anyone have a list and locations of hex posts and part numbers or lengths? When I was installing my mantis protectors a while back, I noticed some of my hex posts were damaged and some warped (in the case of the castle), but there's nothing in the manual about this so I was hoping someone had already documented it. I'm planning on doing a full tear down/clean/wax and wanted to have all of the parts on hand when I do.

If not, would the hex posts from the parts list here (https://www.ipdb.org/files/4032/Williams_1997_Medieval_Madness_Parts_List.txt) be accurate in terms of quantities/lengths for MMR?

Yes.

LTG : )