(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

6 years ago


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  • 8,858 posts
  • 662 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by LTG
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There are 8,858 posts in this topic. You are on page 165 of 178.
#8201 9 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I’ll be selling mine when I order the XL screen and use the old screen for vpin. Not sure how long you’d want to wait

you still need the color chip for the new display. it is technically part of the game, not the display.

#8202 9 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I’ll be selling mine when I order the XL screen and use the old screen for vpin. Not sure how long you’d want to wait

You need the color chip for the XL screen

Edit: KingPinGames beat me to it lol.

#8203 9 months ago

Whaaaaa? Oh. Ok nvm. I saw someone sell one so I just assumed I didn’t need it. Nvm.

#8204 9 months ago

Odd-ball question... I’m going to pick up my MMR RE this weekend. How big is the machine with the back folded?

The reason I ask... I just picked up a Black Knight SoR machine. It BARELY fit in my SUV. if the MMR is 2” bigger, it won’t fit.

I’d rather figure this out now than this weekend when I’m standing at a freight company in ATL.

The shipping company has it in Atlanta as of today, but it’s not scheduled to be delivered to me until 2/16. I can’t wait that long knowing that it’s only 2.5 hours away!!

#8205 9 months ago
Quoted from MasterTinkerer:

Odd-ball question... I’m going to pick up my MMR RE this weekend. How big is the machine with the back folded?
The reason I ask... I just picked up a Black Knight SoR machine. It BARELY fit in my SUV. if the MMR is 2” bigger, it won’t fit.
I’d rather figure this out now than this weekend when I’m standing at a freight company in ATL.
The shipping company has it in Atlanta as of today, but it’s not scheduled to be delivered to me until 2/16. I can’t wait that long knowing that it’s only 2.5 hours away!!

I believe you need about 29-3/4" of height clearance, smaller than a stern game, which needs 30-3/4". So if your BK fit, the MMR should fit. It's the same size as a typical BW game from that era.

#8206 9 months ago

I recently purchased a 9 pc. colored plastic protector set. The main issue I’m noticing is when installing a protector on one side of a wire form gate, it leaves the gate lopsided. The gate at Merlin gets both plastics, but the stud at the right Merlin gate is too short for stacked plastics. And did anyone have an issue with the two pointed red stud posts directly under the middle wire ramp being raised into the bottom of the ramp? Plus, what did you do about the threaded posts that are now too short for the lock nut to grab? Any guidance from those that experienced and overcame these issues?

AA216D1B-42F6-42A0-911A-09B605171210 (resized).jpegBB2B32AE-D333-4432-8FD5-8C753C4AABB6 (resized).pngC515C135-76C4-46F7-8648-A6ACE0C56E95 (resized).jpegFE142A36-1818-471C-92DF-EA3BC4F4169C (resized).jpeg

535DF3F0-EA10-4428-8394-4B301B253EE2 (resized).jpeg

#8207 9 months ago
Quoted from seah2os:

I recently purchased a 9 pc. colored plastic protector set. The main issue I’m noticing is when installing a protector on one side of a wire form gate, it leaves the gate lopsided. The gate at Merlin gets both plastics, but the stud at the right Merlin gate is too short for stacked plastics. And did anyone have an issue with the two pointed red stud posts directly under the middle wire ramp being raised into the bottom of the ramp? Plus, what did you do about the threaded posts that are now too short for the lock nut to grab? Any guidance from those that experienced and overcame these issues?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

I have retrofitted 4 plastic protectors. In 2 places (behind Merlin, at the catapult) other screws have to be put on the playfield. (see picture); I got these from a German store.

Schraube Protectors (resized).jpg
#8208 9 months ago

Troll leaf switch question... I searched this thread and found a lot of helpful info, but not to my specific question.

My right troll works as expected when hit. The left troll takes a very strong hit to register. I adjusted leaf switch and it helped a bit, but it's still a problem. I looked more closely at the working right troll, and I see that there is a small peg/post/screw in the top of the leaf switch (the one not on the troll), and this makes contact with the leaf switch on the troll. This peg/post/screw is missing on the flaky left troll. See attached pics.

I looked around in the bottom of the cabinet and could not find the part. [I only found a thumb screw - see picture also - any suggestions where this goes??? ] The manual (pg 2-22) does not show the peg/post/screw part on the leaf blade - I assume it is either force-fit or something else, and part of the leaf switch.

Anyone else have this happen? Any suggestions on how to best make this work without buying and replacing the complete switch? On my LOTR Palantir I would have already replaced this! Looking for a fix that doesn't require removing the troll....

left troll leaf switch (resized).jpegright troll leaf switch (resized).jpegthumb screw in cabinet (resized).jpeg
#8209 9 months ago
Quoted from Adaminski:

Any suggestions on how to best make this work without buying and replacing the complete switch?

Pound a tiny brass rivet into the hole.

Or get a cheap leaf blade switch and take one blade out of it and substitute it into the troll face leaf blade stack.

Screw on the bottom of the cabinet looks like one that holds a coin chute in on your coin door.

#8210 9 months ago
Quoted from Adaminski:

Any suggestions on how to best make this work without buying and replacing the complete switch?

Quoted from LTG:

Pound a tiny brass rivet into the hole.

Or get a cheap leaf blade switch and take one blade out of it and substitute it into the troll face leaf blade stack.

Screw on the bottom of the cabinet looks like one that holds a coin chute in on your coin door.

Thanks for the suggestion, Lloyd. Unfortunately, it looks like I have to remove the troll in any scenario, and based on a quick search, it looks like I may need to fix the existing leaf switch in some fashion, since the part A-21724 seems to only come as a complete assembly with troll head and is out of stock right now at Marcos and Little Shop of Games. Bummer.

#8211 9 months ago
Quoted from Adaminski:

it looks like I have to remove the troll in any scenario,

Turn the game off. Remove the wireform above him. Below the playfield disconnect the connector to the troll switch. Remove the bolt/pin holding the troll carriage to the plunger. Wiggle free. Lift up and out, lean to the left to clear the part that triggers the up down switch.

Now you can easily work on the troll.

LTG : )

#8212 9 months ago

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-slingshot-kicker-switch.html

Pull the fiberboard spacers apart. The short one should work nicely when installed in the troll face leaf blade switch stack.

LTG : )

#8213 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-slingshot-kicker-switch.html

Pull the fiberboard spacers apart. The short one should work nicely when installed in the troll face leaf blade switch stack.

Thanks again. I did not realize one could non-destructively pull apart the leaf stacks. Won't destroy my backup palantir switch, but will fix this now that I know how. Looks like this post (& thread) has the detailed info I did not possess!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/building-re-building-leaf-switches

#8214 9 months ago

Question: Can someone provide some clear pictures of how the royal edition powdercoat looks like (in daylight).

I think it’s sparkled but looks black on most pictures.

#8215 9 months ago
Quoted from Faust:

Question: Can someone provide some clear pictures of how the royal edition powdercoat looks like (in daylight).
I think it’s sparkled but looks black on most pictures.

Yes it’s sparkly black. And it’s on the coin door too. The effect is subtle but it looks really nice.

#8216 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Now you can easily work on the troll.
LTG : )

You say that...then I take apart the troll in order to adjust the switch and the switch comes apart into 5 pieces and takes 1.5 hours to get back together...even still, thanks for the advice - this did help me get mine back registering hits consistently

#8217 9 months ago

Got my MMR Royal today! One issue from the shipping... key got broken off in the cylinder. What’s the best way to go about getting a replacement key? (Or do I just get a new cylinder and key?)

3C1554E4-3DE0-4A3C-B2AB-5B71E9CD12F9 (resized).jpeg
#8218 9 months ago
Quoted from MasterTinkerer:

What’s the best way to go about getting a replacement key?

You have a 2nd key ? Tweezers or small needle nose pliers. Yank it out.

Or stick a screw driver in the end, turn it, open door. Replace it.

LTG : )

#8219 9 months ago

Is the RGB upgrade lighting dependent on any other upgrades. I have one of the original remakes that has the color upgrade for display only.

#8220 9 months ago

No it comes with the board and the new wiring and will work fine without the topper or XL display.

#8221 9 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

No it comes with the board and the new wiring and will work fine without the topper or XL display.

thanks!

#8222 9 months ago

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-LMP-LEDRGB

After all of that hunting. Found out that planetarypinball.com sells replacement rgb gi bulbs. Hope this helps someone else out in the future.

#8223 9 months ago

On repairing the troll leaf switch - a summary of my problem and solution. Thanks LTG

Quoted from Adaminski:

on the working right troll, and I see that there is a small peg/post/screw in the top of the leaf switch (the one not on the troll), and this makes contact with the leaf switch on the troll. This peg/post/screw is missing on the flaky left troll. Any suggestions on how to best make this work without buying and replacing the complete switch?

Quoted from LTG:

Or get a cheap leaf blade switch and take one blade out of it and substitute it into the troll face leaf blade stack.

Quoted from LTG:

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-slingshot-kicker-switch.html

Pull the fiberboard spacers apart. The short one should work nicely when installed in the troll face leaf blade switch stack.

Quoted from Adaminski:

I did not realize one could non-destructively pull apart the leaf stacks. Looks like this post (& thread) has the detailed info I did not possess!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/building-re-building-leaf-switches

A local friend gave me a cheap leaf switch with the contact on the bottom (as shown in Pinball Life link from LTG). The leaf I needed was ~2" from bottom of stack (not contacts) to top. The bottom contact comes down too far and slightly to the side, and will not work in the troll mechanism. There is not enough clearance into the hole where the troll mounts on top of the plunger/actuator.

There was an unused metal contact in the stack on my troll. So I just put the new leaf in front of the broken leaf, cut off the bottom contact on the new leaf, & removed the unused contact. See photos. Back in business. Trooooollllllssssssss!

03 left troll leaf switch troll removed (resized).jpeg06 troll before (resized).jpeg08 troll leaf stack showing extra contact (resized).jpeg09 troll stack with new and old leaf switch (resized).jpeg
#8224 9 months ago

Hey guys....looks like I'll soon be a new owner of a MMR LE and have been looking to upgrade the display. I know the color chip is what is needed, but PP website shows the " LE color chip is not currently available ". I was told the standard color chip would work on the LE as well....can anyone confirm this? I have reached out to PP via email, but not heard anything back yet.

And I apologize in advance if this has been covered in a previous pinside post....I haven't had time to read all 165 pages yet lol

Appreciate any help/advice.

#8225 9 months ago
Quoted from DarthFett72:

Hey guys....looks like I'll soon be a new owner of a MMR LE and have been looking to upgrade the display. I know the color chip is what is needed, but PP website shows the " LE color chip is not currently available ". I was told the standard color chip would work on the LE as well....can anyone confirm this? I have reached out to PP via email, but not heard anything back yet.
And I apologize in advance if this has been covered in a previous pinside post....I haven't had time to read all 165 pages yet lol
Appreciate any help/advice.

It’s the same chip it just used to be cheaper for LE owners.

#8226 9 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

It’s the same chip it just used to be cheaper for LE owners.

Awesome...thanks for the confirmation Gunstarhero.

#8227 9 months ago
Quoted from DarthFett72:

Awesome...thanks for the confirmation Gunstarhero.

I would contact PPS and ask if you can get the original price. May say no, but worth asking.

#8228 9 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I would contact PPS and ask if you can get the original price. May say no, but worth asking.

The discount was technically only for the first owner but agree, it never hurts to ask.

#8229 9 months ago

So i have a mmr le and the entire game is nice plywood. I heard someone mention that the "standard" pps titles were made using mdf? anyone know for sure?

#8230 9 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

So i have a mmr le and the entire game is nice plywood. I heard someone mention that the "standard" pps titles were made using mdf? anyone know for sure?

All the CGC/PPS cabs after the first (Stern built) runs are melamine AFAIK.

The original idea was LEs were supposed to get “extra nice” cabs but that didn’t last long.

#8231 9 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

All the CGC/PPS cabs after the first (Stern built) runs are melamine AFAIK.
The original idea was LEs were supposed to get “extra nice” cabs but that didn’t last long.

My Royal has a plywood bottom.

D7F1B97E-1582-476C-8ACE-7FFC0108662C (resized).jpeg
#8232 9 months ago

All the MMr's built at CGC have plywood bottoms. The one built by Stern had presswood.

#8233 9 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

My Royal has a plywood bottom.[quoted image]

Right I think they all have wood bottoms but your sides are the smooth melamine ones right?

Quoted from Only_Pinball:

All the MMr's built at CGC have plywood bottoms. The one built by Stern had presswood.

Not accurate, cause I have a Stern build and it’s plywood (LE 453).

Like I said originally the nicer cabs were only LE but they ended up going to everyone.

#8234 9 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Not accurate, cause I have a Stern build and it’s plywood (LE 453).

Like I said originally the nicer cabs were only LE but they ended up going to everyone.

hmmm. Maybe it was the non LE that didnt get the plywood bottom?

#8235 9 months ago

I will have a solution for adding RGB pop bumper lights for those with RGB upgrade kits in the coming weeks.

#8236 9 months ago

Hi everyone, I wanted to share these new Side-Blades I created for Medieval Madness.

All of the artwork was hand-drawn by me.
• Officially licensed from Williams/Bally
• Printed on thick Matte White Opaque Air Egress/Perm, high-quality vinyl.
• The Air-Egress vinyl adhesive we use makes for easy and forgiving installation. (10-15 minute installation)
• Printed with vibrant, fade-resistant colors.
• Laminated with a scratch-resistant protective coating that will keep them looking like new for many years.
• The textured, matte laminate will also minimize the number of reflections from the Playfield lights.
• Fits ALL Medieval Madness pinball machines.

Let me know if you’d like a set, or you can check them out here:
https://www.flyland-arcade.com
Thanks for all the support on my alternate pinball artwork everyone!

Medieval-Madness-Side-Blades-decals-7 (resized).jpgMedieval_Madness_Side_Blade-low-res (resized).jpgLEFT-1-low-res (resized).jpgMedieval-Madness-Side-Blades-decals-1 (resized).JPGMedieval-Madness-Side-Blades-decals-2 (resized).JPGMedieval-Madness-Side-Blades-decals-3 (resized).JPGMedieval-Madness-Side-Blades-decals-4 (resized).JPGMedieval-Madness-Side-Blades-decals-5 (resized).JPGRight_Mockup-low-res (resized).jpgRight_Mockup-low-res_01 (resized).jpgRight_Mockup-low-res_02 (resized).jpg
#8237 9 months ago
Quoted from seah2os:

I recently purchased a 9 pc. colored plastic protector set. The main issue I’m noticing is when installing a protector on one side of a wire form gate, it leaves the gate lopsided. The gate at Merlin gets both plastics, but the stud at the right Merlin gate is too short for stacked plastics. And did anyone have an issue with the two pointed red stud posts directly under the middle wire ramp being raised into the bottom of the ramp? Plus, what did you do about the threaded posts that are now too short for the lock nut to grab? Any guidance from those that experienced and overcame these issues?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

They recommend using this countersink tool on Freddy's Pinball Paradise:
https://www.shop.freddys-pinball-paradise.de/artikelphotos/img_122655b_xl.jpg

Google translate:
"COUNTERSINK TOOL ( TOOL LOWERING , replaces TOOLING TOOL )
€ 8.95 (€ 7.52 plus 19% VAT)
This countersink tool is ideal for deburring, chamfering and countersinking holes in metal, wood and plastic, the diameter is 12.4 mm. A drill or a cordless screwdriver is required for this.

IMPORTANT:
Only lower the Convolux on the underside!"

#8238 9 months ago

Got my side blades today from Brian. They are awesome.

PXL_20210213_010654608 (resized).jpgPXL_20210213_010711091 (resized).jpgPXL_20210213_010714177 (resized).jpgPXL_20210213_010756358 (resized).jpgPXL_20210213_010805719 (resized).jpg
#8239 9 months ago
Quoted from Nysbadmk8:

Got my side blades today from Brian. They are awesome.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Can I please ask if they are like the Stern ones, thick Vinyl? Or are tthey like cabinet decals? We are really keen to get these

#8240 9 months ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

Can I please ask if they are like the Stern ones, thick Vinyl? Or are tthey like cabinet decals? We are really keen to get these

Thick, like the Stern ones. I literally put these on, and then did a pair of sterns on my AIQ. Same material it feels like to me.

#8241 9 months ago
Quoted from Nysbadmk8:

Thick, like the Stern ones. I literally put these on, and then did a pair of sterns on my AIQ. Same material it feels like to me.

Thanks very much for the info. We will order some in the next few days. They look awesome

#8242 9 months ago

Got my machine! MUST replace this glass!!! Guess I’m already spoiled by the invisiglass in my BK:SoR.

Question - what’s the best source?

I see it for $300 on Jersey Jack... standard glass or wide body?

Anyone have success with a particular vendor?

#8243 9 months ago
Quoted from MasterTinkerer:

Got my machine! MUST replace this glass!!! Guess I’m already spoiled by the invisiglass in my BK:SoR.
Question - what’s the best source?
I see it for $300 on Jersey Jack... standard glass or wide body?
Anyone have success with a particular vendor?

I've bought a few sheets of invisiglass from cointaker and they were great.

https://cointaker.com/t/voodoo-glass

#8244 9 months ago

Hey MMr owners ... I've been having a ton of fun making these new products, so here's one for you:

There are plain old original stock coin reject buttons ... then there are aftermarket coin reject buttons with flat 2-D patterns -- I'm taking it to the next dimension with these new 3-D Coin Reject Buttons!

Medieval_1_RCP (resized).jpg

These eye-catching buttons literally pop out at you! They're 3D-printed with multiple filaments, featuring a castle tower with an internal spiral staircase lit from inside (by light from the button), visible through the window!

Medieval_2_RCP (resized).jpg

Available on my website (https://rocketcitypinball.com) or in my shop here on Pinside (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/04834-3d-coin-reject-buttons-medieval-madness). (My daughter gets a commission too; these 3D buttons were her idea!)

Installation instructions video posted in the shop listing. Note: please check your game before ordering -- this button replaces P/N 27-1037 button & 27-1038 cover -- as reimports, modded/swapped coin doors, etc. may have different button types. Compare to my pictures / instruction video to be sure this is the correct one for yours (button is separate piece from slot).

#8245 9 months ago
Quoted from MasterTinkerer:

standard glass or wide body?

Standard

#8246 9 months ago
Quoted from brian-allen:

Hi everyone, I wanted to share these new Side-Blades I created for Medieval Madness.
All of the artwork was hand-drawn by me.
• Officially licensed from Williams/Bally
• Printed on thick Matte White Opaque Air Egress/Perm, high-quality vinyl.
• The Air-Egress vinyl adhesive we use makes for easy and forgiving installation. (10-15 minute installation)
• Printed with vibrant, fade-resistant colors.
• Laminated with a scratch-resistant protective coating that will keep them looking like new for many years.
• The textured, matte laminate will also minimize the number of reflections from the Playfield lights.
• Fits ALL Medieval Madness pinball machines.
Let me know if you’d like a set, or you can check them out here:
https://www.flyland-arcade.com
Thanks for all the support on my alternate pinball artwork everyone!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

man those look great....if I didn't have mirror blades on my Royal, I would definitely buy these!

#8247 9 months ago
Quoted from Nysbadmk8:

Thick, like the Stern ones. I literally put these on, and then did a pair of sterns on my AIQ. Same material it feels like to me.

I've never held Stern's Side Blades, but mine are printed on very thick material - as thick as Tilt Graphics and PinGraffix blades, with a thick layer of textured lamination to protect them from scratches. Thanks!
pinballaddicted

#8248 9 months ago

Thank you Nysbadmk8 - you got those on quick! Do you mind if I use your photos as an example on my website?

#8249 9 months ago

Just joined the club (cancelled my preorder during beginning of COVID crap, but picked up a fair priced NIB MMrRE) ...forgot how much I love this game, and in a home environment even better. This version is absolutely stunning!!!

PDI does wonders for me, really bringing the colors out. I'm behind the curve on this one...has anyone changed the colors on the rubbers? I use Titans on all my other machines, and truthfully like the look of stock black in this one so far. Thoughts?

Playing great right out of the box (had to align the flippers), and not aware of any challenges to this point. I'll cruise the thread, but if something has obviously been talked about, a brief summary would be appreciated.

So glad to finally get this gem!!!! Onward....

#8250 9 months ago

Installed the XL display and Brian Allens backglass today.

PXL_20210214_014135145 (resized).jpg
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