I have #355 and was told by the distributor that it was one of the last 2 made. Since my payment was delayed as I snail mailed a check, mine is probably the last one.

Thanks, I've had the same problem and will give this a try.

There is a fine line on this bend. Like LTG said if you bend it too far the troll will not go up and down as it should. Ask me how I know. LOL

My right troll just started acting up. He slams up just like he’s supposed to, but when it’s time to go down he goes very slowly and usually stops just before the flap is flush with the playfield. The left troll still drops like a rock.

It looks identical to the left troll underneath the playfield, but when I manually raise and lower it seems like the piston isn’t traveling through the coil smoothly. Do I need to oil it? Or is it damaged? Thanks for your help!

Don't F*ing do that.

If the plunger seems to be dragging in the coil sleeve. Easy fix.

Turn game off. Remove balls ( game, not yours ) lift playfield up and lean on backbox.

Unhook coil connector. Remove bolt holding troll carriage to plunger. Remove two brackets/four screws holding coil/plunger on.

Now that you have the coil and plunger out. Remember the order of the parts, coil, brackets, coil sleeve, etc.

The plunger is two piece, held together by a roll pin. That roll pin is sticking out a bit. Pound it back in. File the area smooth. Check if coil sleeve is cracked or broken.

Reassemble. Done. Miller time.

LTG : )

You really are Lloyd the Great! All fixed and popping the top on the Millers at 9:10 am! Thanks, Lloyd!!!

Thanks LTG for the suggestion! I made some adjustments last night and unfortunately just bending the flap a tiny bit out interfered with the troll movement through the playfield. This problem started when I replaced the entire troll assembly a few months ago. What I think I'll do next is measure the "gap" distance of the flap on the old assembly and set that same gap distance on the new assembly. This would also be a good time to check that the game is level as it may have been moved inadvertently out of the divots in the carpet.

Good plan.

Compare to the other side underneath the playfield. Maybe the bracket holding everything is bent a little forward or back.

LTG : )

Hey guys, I am getting the error for: “check tower diverter stuck closed”. A few days ago the ramp diverter stopped staying down. It will activate down as needed, but won’t stay down to make the damsel shot. I don’t see any switches that could be off, do I just have a bad coil? My MMR does not have a manual, does anyone know what part I would need to order? Thanks.

Page 1-54 in the manual describes it. What has to happen to not get that error.

Or play a bunch of games and it will probably clear.

LTG : )

https://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals/MMR_Manual_Rev_1_2.pdf

So I finally got the 2 sd cards back from CGC. 1 has a custom logo on it, the other 3.0.0 software update. After several attempts, with me actually pressing on the beagle, the 3.0.0 loaded. What's interesting is none of the beagle fingers appear bent? After this I tried 10 different sd cards with the custom logo for uploading. Zero sd cards with the custom logo worked. Same error everytime, sd card will not mount. ARGH! CGC claimed both the sd cards I sent them worked perfect at their shop. No idea where to go from here since CGC closed my ticket too.

a little bit expected; so good thing is, that 3.0 final is now installed and that it´s not a HW defect with the card reader.
I would give the CGC card with the custom logo a lot of tries to mount (min 20). (to be sure check the card if its FAT32)

It should not be this difficult!

Yes, tell me about it, lol!

Can someone reshare the instructions to get the popbumpers to RGB; I can't seem to find it...

look at the posts or get in touch with "kapsreiter"

If anyone has the MMR GI kit, is it worth it? I've seen just 1 YT video and it seems pretty sweet. I liked the effects on afmr.

For my money its a MUST HAVE. Depending on your skill level its a 3-4 hour project.

Looks like planetarypinball.com is sold out of the gi upgrade. Not sure what that means. But if your on the fence this might be the time to pull the trigger from another provider.

Absolutely worth the cost. Get one.

We have it and definitely worth it. We love it. It is a pain to put in, took me quite a few hours.

Well that is great to hear. I am ordering the GI now, I'll get the XL a bit later. But I've only played an amfr le and seen 1 YT video and it looked sweet. The game is a keeper for as long as I can , so I figured I'd put the mods on.

Hi everyone - I'm creating these Side Blades for Medieval Madness with my hand-drawn artwork - here are some close-ups of the line art before I color.
If you'd like to be notified when they are finished and available, you can do so here:
http://bit.ly/mm-sideblades
THANKS!

Medieval-Madness-Side-Blade-4 (resized).jpg

Medieval-Madness-Side-Blade-5 (resized).jpg

Medieval-Madness-Side-Blade-6 (resized).jpg

Medieval-Madness-Side-Blade-7 (resized).jpg

Medieval-Madness-Side-Blade-8 (resized).jpg

As usual, amazing work! Can’t wait to get a set of these

To follow-up on the custom logo upload issue. CGC sent me a replacement control board. Installed the new board and bam, problem solved. Install of software and logo was super easy, 1st time too at that. Hope this thread helps someone else downstream and more importantly, glad I wasn't losing my marbles thinking it was me the whole time, lol.

Did you lose all your high scores and settings when you changed the controller board? My MMrSE would not save the date and time and finally I was sent a new control board. I was told that my settings and scores should not reset, but they did. But my date and time now save. Seems there might have been some issues with the control boards on the remakes.

These are CRAZY COOL! I have your MM translite and LOVE it. Looks like I am going to need these too!

Looks really nice! I think I have to get some of your sideblades (AFMR and MMR), even though I want to keep using the original backglasses. Maybe next some sideblade-love for CC?

great work, I am excited about the final version

Yes, reset everything but thats ok, it works and I'm much more pleased with that!

I don’t have the kit yet but this may be of some help

Do you remember if you’ve ever updated code on your game?

I did the same thing. You need to update your software to 3.0.

MMr Standard

Have a intermittent issue with my right Troll. In test mode it raises/lowers every time without issue. When playing the game and starting troll modes, every so often the right troll has a long delay before it rises, in a few occasions it hasn't come up at all.

All connections are tight and in place, along with solder connections. Really odd.

100% you need to update to 3.0 BEFORE installing the larger screen.

You don’t need to put your old display back or anything tho... just pop in the included SD card and update now. It’s just the in game stuff that’s garbled, the loading screen and CGC stuff will show up just fine.

Sounds like it's binding. Either the collar that holds the carriage to the plunger is coming loose from the carriage. Or the roll pin that holds the two piece plunger together is sticking out a little bit and binding inside the coil sleeve.

LTG : )

I’m joining the club! Working out the shipping details now.

Welcome!

I get my upgrades tomorrow. I have skimmed the last 30 pages. I have found the post to make the speakers go with the rgb lights. But couldn't find anything about the pop bumpers. Any know the post? I remember
reading there was something special to do. Might want to make both topics a key post on the thread.

The speaker lights is simple. Just put the wire in the right spot on the connector. The pop bumpers are not simple. You have to buy parts (RGB sockets and bulbs), take the pop bumpers apart to install and wire the new sockets, then splice them into the RGB GI. It also means taking many things apart (like removing ramps) just to access the pop bumpers.

Check the posts by kapsreiter in this thread. There isn't much of a guide but he does say which RGB pop bumper boards he used.

Thanks. No biggie on the tare down. It's time for a good cleaning anyways.

I own a MMrLE and purchased the upgrade mods. Any specific tips or steps to take before starting the install of the mods? I have watched SuperNova's install on youtube. Just looking for any hiccups anyone has run into specifically with the LE.

Before securing the board in the head. Be sure cables reach. So you don't have to move it later.

The knocker - In commercial use I left it there and only drilled holes for three T Nuts and bolts, for the topper. I didn't move the knocker and mount it elsewhere and drill a T Nut hole in that spot.

I figured if three T Nuts and bolts weren't enough, one more wouldn't matter. As is with three, you'd still rip the top of the head off long before one more T Nut and bolt mattered.

LTG : )

That's good advice about 3 holes and the knocker. I ended up drilling a hole in the metal that the knocker hits for the additional nut for the topper.