Still have a ticket open on CGC. Waiting to hear from their engineer for a few weeks now about options to repair/replace.

Please pm me the ticket number and I'll see if I can kick it up a notch or two.

LTG : )

Thanks so much LTG for all your help!
Sending PM now.

LTG B Da Man

Kicked it up a notch, I hope it helps.

LTG : )

I totally appreciate all your help LTG!
You're one in a million.

Time and date reset. Anyone else having this?

Old code or new code? It was supposed to be fixed in the new update.

I hope it really was.

New code.

correct. No game with proper clear, You don't care who makes it, should have chips 200 games in.

I also had the time and date not set error last night, new code.

Happened 2 days in a row

Just 3

It's likely related to the RTC; I don't think this is purely a software issue, but you never know.

Anyone know if the warranty transfers if you purchase someone else's NIB that they decided to sell? Warranty info says it does not. Just curious if that is true.

Stern will warranty the game for more the the normal time no matter where you purchase machine.

If they dont buying a NIB from a consumer would be a big risk? There are plenty of things that could be wrong with machine, and I am sure the replacement boards are not cheap.

That could certainly be why it's happening. My AFM reset a couple of times when the AC is really going.

Yes, happened over the last few days. Must be happening after a certain amount of time. I updated with the new software shortly after it was released. This is the first occurrence since then.

It's true.

LTG : )

Just heard from CGC.
We have a solution!
Thanks again LTG!!!!

While changing over to white rubber I forgot where this plastic goes.
20160812_161908_(resized).jpg

Somewhere near the dragon I think, just don't remember

I just gave my game a quick look over and could not find it. Have you been playing with your Ouiji board lately?

On the post by the dragon pointing towards the rear, under his wing.

LTG : )

LTG : )

IMG_0893_(resized).JPG

Thanks Lloyd that also explains why I was short a washer. My mystery plastic instead of a washer on top.

Going to update mine to the new software should I pull fuse f4 1st?

Seems like it

what's the reasoning behind pulling that fuse?

That fuse seems to blow during the update. Pull fuse.
Update.
Put fuse back.
Profit 1 fuse.

Edit: I wonder if leaving the coin door open would accomplish the same thing?

Had problems with the catapult.
The mech was good and tight and not binding.
Ramp is aligned.
Default and +1 barley spill out to the playfield
+2 makes it back to the peasant ramp
Had to set to max to go around like it should.

Something is up; you shouldn't have to do that. Please check the ramp again. Maybe take a slow-motion video if you can and watch it on the default settings. Something is slowing the ball down.

Marc

While you cannot hurt anything doing that, I am dubious that a software update can blow a fuse.

it's been reported by multiple people as happening.
crazy

Well I can't report it as happened. But since no goodie bag with a spare fuse. I acted preemptively. Just in case

Link to video:

Not sure what I could move on the ramp to change things, there's not much adjustment at the lower section of the wireform.
The mech moves fine when I operate it by hand, nothing sticky or rubbing, the ramp seems to be in the right location.
Just acts like the coil doesn't have enough juice.

+2 sometimes makes it, Max works all the time.
It shouldn't hurt anything to leave at max right?

Thoughts?

Is that a cliffy protector on there? If you remove it, does it work?

Yeah there is a cliffy but I can see that nothing is touching.

I'm on my phone so it's a little hard to see, but it looks like them all is hitting the metal ramp early in the catapult throw. That's stopping the energy and messing it up. Did you have to take those ramps off to install the cliffy? If so, carefully inspect your work and alignment. I can take some pictures if you need later today.

Marc

Also I have set the moat popper to min. It was too powerful maybe the coil got swapped with the catapult during assembly

Same issue with catapult here to(#355). Posted attempts to fix it long ago. Tried bending wireform, shifting side to side. Game is set to 6.5deg. Like yours, mech seems in order on inspection. No protector. I can't tell if it is just a faulty coil that's just not operating properly at lower power settings, or if the game itself is not sending enough power at the individual settings. At each setting, the results are anything but consistent. At max, most of the time it will make it around pretty smoothly. Sometimes it will catch on the top switch a bit. Sometimes it will be a very underpowered shot and roll back down the left ramp. Getting two balls stuck in the catapult usually means having to stop the game and pulling the glass off, but sometimes I get lucky and one will pop out.

I don't really know what else to try and have kinda just given up on it and been living with it as about 85% effective as I'd like it to be.

I'll snap that pic tomorrow morning. There are quite a few things to do to remove the cliffy, plus it has adhesive at the top of the small end.

Here's a pic I took while installing it, you can see there should be nothing touching the cliffy.
The catapult arm is centered in the playfield hole, and the cliffy is slightly outside of that.
20160811_200128_(resized).jpg

I believe that the issue is how many things you took apart to install the cliffy. Looking at mine, the ball doesn't contact the rail until way up the ramp. The fact that yours is smacking the ball into the ramp almost right away is comcerning.

Put it back together without the cliffy and test it piece by piece. I would put just the wire form ramp back on, secure it and start testing. It didn't leave the factory like this and I am confident that you can adjust it back to proper operation.

Marc

Improved MMR rubber list and chart.
I found a lot of conflicting info about the rubber list or the lack of one for MM. I put this together hopefully it helps others.
Nothing I found online what 100% right, resulting in some substitutions I did. They work, but I noted my changes from the stock I pulled off.

MMR_Rubber_(resized).PNG

I like filing out the outlane posts with 3/8 on the top slot, and putting mini posts everywhere there is spot for them hence the 13 instead of 2 for the 7/16OD Not 100% sure about all the locations but they should be close... missing a few H's and the E and F could be the other way around. If you order all of the non(*) rings it will match the stock rings I removed.

The smaller outlane subs 1 1/2 for 2 and 1 for 1 1/4 are tight but work ok unless you narrow the outlane gaps.

Hopefully my notation makes sense.

That may be true, but it works 100% fine as I have it with the cliffy installed. It doesn't hit the wireform early like at the other strength settings.
It it going to break the game to leave the catapult strength at max?
If not, why wouldn't I leave it max and not take all of that stuff apart again.

I mean, sure, of course. But it was designed to work at standard strength, so the engineer in me wants to get you back to having it work they way it was designed to

Here is a video of mine in action on default settings. Initially I thought you wire form might be the problem(based on it hitting the bottom), but It appears the catapult is just not getting enough power or is binding somewhere causing to lost power and ball to hit the bottom. I'd lift play field and double check by manually moving the catapult up and down to verify it's not getting caught up on anything. Not sure if is related, but it's odd that your catapult was under powered and your other one was over powered from factory.

IMG_0132_(resized).JPG
IMG_0132_(resized).JPG

Regarding the catapult eject being weak, below is what I've found after having my MMR on location for over a year.

Occasionally the moat eject and usually the castle destruct would get weak or quit working. Lately it is the castle destruct coil that gets flaky after 1-2 weeks. I checked connections, repinned connectors, tried various different things and the problem would always come back. I finally figured out the issue, and the same issue could be affecting your catapult strength.

The small driver board that contains the transistors sits on standoffs above the large playfield PCB that has the insert LEDs. Data is passed to the driver board through 0.1" header pins. The pins are on the driver board and push down through a 0.1" socket on the large playfield PCB. The pins are located under the chip that is on the driver board PCB. The solution is to push down and wiggle this connection to make sure you are getting good contact. After doing this my moat problems went away and my castle destruct works fine for a couple weeks but eventually it starts getting flaky again.

I don't have a good picture of what I'm describing, but I did find a pic and I've highlighted the chip that has the connector underneath it. See below.

At some point I'll fix it for good by changing the pins and socket. But right now since the game is on location I raise the playfield every couple of weeks and push/wiggle the connector and the problem goes away. This may not be your problem, but give it a try and see if it helps.

mm_driver_(resized).jpg