I had exactly this problem. If you look back at a couple of my posts I have almost the same photo. I took that piece metal out and used a fine file and dremmel to remove the lip where the ball crosses into the trough and also smooth the metal tags each side. Easy fix, here is my after photo for you.

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Any clear plastics protector kits for MMR on sale this weekend?

I installed the add-ons to make my mmr a royal. Should the new acronym be mmr-r or mmrcr ( mmr converted royal )

Is it just Royals that have the factory interactive backbox/translite lighting? It is a minor feature, just curious.

Last call...

More of an upgraded MMR, not a Royal.

LTG : )

mmrur

Not that any of us would ever sell our beloved MMR's....But the question is, what do we ask for a standard with the upgrade kit installed.

So I just unboxed my MMR SE the other day and on the front corner of the machine between the launch button and the flipper button the front sticker is starting to peel. Looks like it's not tucked under the side sticker like it's supposed to be. Is this something I should put a ticket in for under warranty or just try and glue it down and fix it myself?

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MMR (or MMR LE) w/Royal Upgrades

I feel like you can add an easy $1500 to your asking price (so if you were gonna ask for 7500 you could go to 9K) and that's still basically giving away the color chip... but who knows what you'd actually settle for? Selling mods is always tough but as these are more factory upgrades maybe they are more of a value add.

If I was to sell my extremely low play HUO (documented) first run MMR-LE after installing the sound/XL display, RGB lighting, and Topper mods I would ask $10K for it, and I'm sure it would go quick at that price.

The best outcome for you will be CGC sending you the decal and you would then need to remove the old decal and install the new one or have someone do it for you. I'd put a ticket in, get the decal, try fixing the original decal and still have a back-up decal in case you need it. Sorry, takes away some of the excitement of getting a new pin.

Sorry this happened....unfortunately the best CGC will do is send u new decals

Hi, just installed the display upgrade. A couple of questions. Should the speaker lights be on or do I need the light upgrade for them to be on.

I already upgraded the large speaker, can I use the one they sent in any other game?

Thanks

Should be on and blue.

LTG : )

Check the cable connecting the lights to the power behind the display. Mine was incorrectly plugged in (align each colour).

Good call out. Mine was too. You need to clip the zip tie and move the plug over one segment.

Thanks everyone, just had to move the connector over one place. Now it matches its siblings a bit better.

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If you have the topper board from either the topper or RGB GI mod you can plug the speakers into it to achieve interactive RGB speaker lighting.

The LE has a plaque, so why doesn't the Royal? I had the ULEKstore.com make this up for me. I like it.

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Cool. Wish they did a cool lock down bar plaque like on MBrLE ...

That would look good on the lockdown bar too!

Hi everyone; I sold my nice MM original and bought a MMR LE and the 3 upgrade kits (topper, display and GI kit).
Happy to be in the club and its my second CGC. (The MB LE I have).

My question is if it is feature-wise then fully equal to the royal, or does this have more features?
Are there any other significant changes between 11000 series and 13000 series?

I personally did not like the black that much and am going to make the trims gold.

Scroll down to the chart :

https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness

See the differences there.

LTG : )

Thanks for the link. I read through it (before I bought these kits actually) the only difference I saw was backboard illumuniation for royal ed.
However it may be included in the GI upgrade kit; not clear to me.

Hence my questions; did they change anything else on the 13000 series (updated mechs, lights or electronics for example) that is not in the separate kits.

I’ll start reading up here but ai was just hoping someone knew something more

I was lucky enough to get a Royal, as I didn't want to go down the road of installing pieces to make it look like a Royal if I bought an older version...

From what I recall, the shaker motor, all metal trim, side mirrors and back panel lighting is what would be "missing" if you did all the cool upgrading...

Then, tying in the pop bumpers to the RGB, mounting the new boards correctly in the back box, switching around the speaker wires for the RGB effect.

While it's more time than I'd like to spend, it's really cool that CGC made this an option.

Only question I have would be is it worth the same as a Royal if you do everything?

Personally, I don't care. Play and enjoy what you have! I chose the "easy" way out IMO. I have enjoyed from Day1 and never regretted the price tag. By the time you add up all the parts (and labor time, even if it's a passion of yours to work on) it's pretty close to cost of a NIB MMrRE.

Main thing is making it to your liking. Collectors are a funny breed...one pieced together will never equal a bought one from the factory with all the trimmings. To each their own.

Again, have fun and enjoy your pin!
Post some pics when done!

Without “coloring outside the lines” you get the following extras on a RE vs an upgraded LE:

Color changing speaker lights
Color changing pop bumper lights
Black mirror blades
Diamond black legs, side rails, lockdown bar and coin door

Pretty sure that’s it. The LE does include a shaker and hey, you get a cool badge on the apron!

There is some weirdness with the LE being an earlier run of the game you will have to work around, and that is well documented in this thread... as well as you can modify in the other color changers. So really end of the day all you really miss out on is the mirror blades and the black armor.

If you had an LE to start with it the only thing missing would be the mirror blades...and if it was an early run LE you wouldn't have a light diffuser installed to reduce the playfield lighting so you can read the writing on the inserts; all of the early run machines without this issues were Gold Powdercoated as CGC made the gold machines first. Plus as already mentioned you would have a cool ass serialized plaque.

I could be mistaken on this, but doesn't the RE have full RGB playfield lighting as well?

Keep in mind that this chart doesn't contain any information on the LE version and is only for currently produced games and that LE owners also had a choice between Gold Powder Coat, Black Powder coat , or Stainless Steel trim.

After reading several posts here and checking the availability, i added the Hertz DCX87.3 (named Kickers and Infinity are not available here in Germany) to my Royal Edition last weekend (the Pyle PLG3.2 is built in by default)
The sound and the call outs are a bit better / brighter, but to be honest I expected more from the many opinions here.
It's a bit better but no must have from my point of view.
The Hertz has less bass than the Pyle, so I had to change from balance to front speaker (before) to more volume on the subwoofer and now it´s totally a bit clearer (good example are the bumper to hear a bit more the sword blades sound).

Great feedback. Appreciate it. I'll just leave well enough alone

Cool, how did you adjust this setting in the system?

You have to go into the MMR service menu. Hold the service credit button for 4 seconds.

The use the flipper buttons to adjust the sub woofer balance. Minus numbers send more sound towards the sub and lowers the volume on the cabinet speakers.

Is there an option to have the original DMD animations?

They are simple, but I like them. Especially on my Monster Bash

Thanks. What setting did you decide was optimal? I like 30, seems to be a good balance for call out clarity.

with the new speaker (brighter. less bass) i prefer -35; with the pyle I had +30

does anyone have a pic of the wear spot location on the MOAT kickout? I have a new MMR Royal and looks like there isn't mylar over the Jousting guy and I remember my old one had mylar in that area.

Just don't know exactly where to put the Mylar to prevent wear in that spot as my new game doesn't look like it has Mylar in that area.

Thx

i have some new stainless steel speaker grills in stock

IMG_3263 (resized).jpg

I have the kicker speakers, and mine is currently set to -40

Is there a kit to upgrade the pops from purple to the transparent RGB ones? Just picked up a MMR and it has all the upgrades apart from this

No.

LTG : )

Definitely no kit. If you are handy with soldering and taking apart ramps, pop bumpers, crimping wires, and buying the parts you need, there is guy who did it. Search the thread for "RGB pop bumper". Not for the faint of heart.

Obviously you are on your own if you choose to go ahead (CGC won't support or replace parts you break).

ok

Yup found the post and have messaged for more information, I have no problem with taking machines apart / soldering etc...
It appears to just be swapping out the pop caps with clear starburst ones, and adding in some sort of RGB pop pcb which i assume just tags onto the RGB GND cables on another RGB near by lamp, as they all change together must just be one big RGB bus for all the GI.

Anyone have any directions or pics on how to install this Carbon Cliffy?

It looks a lot easier than the older style from Mantis.

IMG-6697 (resized).jpg

sataneatscheese made videos of more or less all Cliffy protector installations in his MMR.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cliffy-mmr-installation-videos-full-set-review

The Carbon fiber Merlin hole is pretty easy to install.

My first credit dot after 7 months from purchase! “Check switch 25 r troll target”. I’ve performed the various switch tests and confirmed open/close. It appears to be working fine. However, the credit dot will not go away. Suggestions? Thanks!

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That is the up down switch. Troll target would be the leaf blade switch the troll face is hooked to. Might be stuck closed or needs to be more sensitive.

Tests - Switch Edge - when you push the switch, watch what number reports on the screen.

LTG : )

Okay, Test>Switch edge. When I raise the entire rt troll assembly, and it depresses the up/down switch, I get #75. When I push the troll head back like a ball strike, I get #46. Nothing says switch 25. Am I reading/testing this right? Thanks!

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No.

Page 2-40 in the manual - #25 is the stand up target behind the right pop up troll assembly.

LTG : )