I used a small piece of Mylar to ramp between the steel lip of the protector and the playfield. Can't see it and never had a problem since.

I've noticed in a few pictures that some of you are using a Custom Williams Logo on your new XL displays. Would anyone that has this custom graphics file be willing to share it with me?

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I almost forgot to mention that the 7/16" yellow zinc self tapping screws seen in my photos are used to secure the Tee Nuts and prevent spinning are not included in the mod kit and were purchased separately.

Ditto Id like to do this to mine as well

Me too! Please share if you can!

I must be a glutton for punishment!!!!

Despite my Topper wiring being too short to reach the Topper board I'm continuing on with the RGB Lighting mod; unfortunately, the very first step of replacing the Glass Back channel proved to be problematic. You would think it would be easy remove 4 screws and put 3 back in with the new part, but nope the screws holding the lighting protector hit the back of the cabinet making it impossible to mount.

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I'm really starting to feel like a Beta Tester for all of these mods.

X4...

I resolved this issue, I filled the original mounting holes with wood glue and a bamboo BBQ skewer, then redrilled the holes for the back glass channel a little lower and it all worked out. Hindsight, It probably would have been easier to just oval out the screw holes in the new rear channel.

Yeah it’s pretty obvious these kits were made with the new Classics in mind and the older SE and LE owners had to make some... adjustments... to make them fit.

I think this statement is 100% accurate.

I finally finished all the mods and I'm happy to report they are all working.

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I did have to raise the Topper board by 2 inches for the topper to fit and I'm happy to report the RGB GI cable was more lighting cable was more than long enough to reach the board and I was even able to run it through the split loom. The original holes that I made from the pattern to mount the board did not go to waste as I used these to add cable clamps for a clean appearance as my LE had no mounting plate and few cable clamps. The one thing I had to address after moving the board was the ground cable as it wasn't long enough to reach the Topper board in the new location so I simply made a new one.

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If you are thinking of doing the GI Light Mod on an older SE or LE you may want to consider deviating from the manual on this; I did read ahead on how they planned to merge the 2 GI strings for the pop bumpers into the mix and I'm glad I did. If you think putting 4 wires into a wire nut located in a high vibration area is insane please read on ...

Note the augmented instruction require you to have Molex pins and connectors as well as the tool to make them.

The absolute best way to do this is with a Molex connector, and the only thing IMO that requires more the "intermediate level" level of experience that's mentioned in the instructions. Steps 42 for "Right2" and step 45 for "Left 3" tell you to leave these GI strands dangling after you replace the last lamp, and this is good advice as it makes hem easy to locate at the end but DO NOT perform step 47 which has you "Cut all of the wires from the Terminal Strip and cut the wires on the Jet Bumper Lamp side of the Butt Connector". Instead just cut both wires that go to the Terminal Strip from the last lighting sockets on both the Yellow and Orange GI strands (Right 2 and Left 3) as close to the lamp socket as you can in order to leave as much wire as possible to work with.

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Strip back both the Orange and Yellow wires and crimp them into a male pin, then do the same for the ORG/WHT and YEL/WHT wires.

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Then insert them into your Molex connector.

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Per step 50 in the instructions "Locate the Jet Bumper Lamp Cable." We are not going to use the wire nuts, instead install your matching Female Molex connector and pins on this cable. You will want to make sure to insert these pins in the Molex connector so the White wire mates with the White Striped wires and that the GREY wire mates with the pin containing the ORG and YEL wires. Once done, connect them together and route them for a clean appearance.
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So now what I need to work on is getting the RGB speaker lights to change colors with the game ... I thought I saw some information posted previously in this thread on how to tie them in.

Best of luck with your upgrades!

I'm getting my Royal next week....are the GI RGB overwhelming to the eye or are they really good?

Great job on your game!

Congratulations! Im doing these mods to my LE as I missed the boat on the RE. The RGB GI looks really nice but the overall game seems to be darker than it was before I installed the RGB GI lighting kit; this makes sense as the white lights are going to provide more visible lighting than any of the colored lights.

Do me a favor when you get your game by posting a picture of the topper board so I can figure out where they wired the speaker RGBs...I speculate they are on the unused pins of the RGB2 connector and all I'll have to do is remove the pins from the speaker panel and insert them into that connector.

Ledgend Pinsider kapsreiter posted a how to:
(Thanks very much for that Tom I followed your instructions yesterday and got the speaker panel RGB all up and running )

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I KNEW IT! Thanks for the information and guidance on what to do! I'm gonna do it right now!

I also want to thank kapsreiter for his assistance with my Custom Logo!

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Think there are anymore mmr se’s out there?

Done, now my game is exactly how I wanted it

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The speaker lights really make a huge difference don’t they??

I love how you did the pop lights, I need to redo mine that way. Those wire nuts just seem so shady.

I know of 1 at RE pricing....
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I think My LE is now better than an SE though

They REALLY do! Even with all the problems to work around I'm really glad I did all these mods and have to thank the folks here on Pinside for their assistance with this project.

Eeek.

Just a quick one for the people installing the subwoofer, in the upgrade kit they give you 3/4” long screws to screw the mounted speaker to the cabinet. They were way too short for mine, I would expect with all the vibration it would have came loose fairly quickly. I ended up using some 1” long screws which were much better. Other than that and missing a few cable clamps the kit was very straightforward to install.

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You bring up a good point. I also noticed the screws were too short. The big problem would be transporting the pin would possibly dislodge the speaker and cause damage.

I ended up installing "T" nuts to solve this problem.

I imagine you can also add some glue like was done at the factory.

This would be the best solution, I also used 1" screws; primarily because I couldn't find any 1-1/4" #8-32 screws in my bins.

Ironically, the RGB lighting Kit contained 1/2" screws to hold all the light sockets when the original 7/16" screws are more than long enough for the job.

1/2" for the under playfield light sockets? Those, I would think be very close to going through the top of the playfield!

I just used the same screws that were already there. I started with the new screws, but quickly stopped simply due to the extra effort it was taking to go through new wood.

Thanks everyone for the recommendations. I installed the topper and display/sound kit yesterday and can validate the following.

1) The topper template should be offset by 1/4" to ensure the topper is flush with the front of the backbox. Move the template towards the rear of the top of the backbox, tape and you're good to do.

The 1 1/2" hole saw provided is terrible. Do yourself a favor and pick up a sharp, quality one before starting the job.

2) The version one template is nowhere near accurate when installing the new PCB. I moved the PCB up by using the top of the template pilot holes as the bottom, etc. Worked perfectly.

3) The knocker strike plate had to be moved 1/2" to accommodate a topper t-nut.

4) The larger cabinet woofer installation is straight forward, but please keep in mind CGC builds solid cabinets. What this meant for me is a crap-ton of glue holding down the old wood speaker mount. What the instructions do not tell you (besides the screws being too short), is that you need to scrape all of the old glue completely off to ensure the surface is flat. Especially challenging when ensuring the cabinet is not scratched from whacking a hammer and chisel inside your game.

Used 1 1/4" screws with small spacers as an extra added measure of protection to ensure the new speaker mount screws didn't go through the cabinet.

Worked great and will tackle the RGB upgrade shortly. Appreciate everyone sharing their installation experiences in this thread!

Nice recap! That was all consistent with our install experience.

The next fun part is the pop bumper cables. After that tho you’re home free!

Thanks for this suggestion. I picked up a MMR RE last weekend and after a few days the only thing I was disappointed with was the sound. Found your post, and picked up the kicker speakers on amazon ($62.96). Boy what a difference, the call outs and sound are nice and clear. Wife even said it was better, so I know it's not just me. I liked that the speakers come with a crossover. Very easy install.

Hi,
the kicker loudspeakers are not available here in Germany, looking for alternatives.
Is it really so easy to install? The cables are soldered on, right? What is a crossover? Sorry that I ask.

Do look at my post on this; its both better and no harder than what the instructions tell you to do.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/157#post-5959627

Several people have asked me how to install a custom image in their game, so I decided to post the instructions for creating/adding a custom logo, these were extracted from the Monster Bash Manual.
Custom Logo Instructions.pdf

Earlier today I was looking through some old pinball restoration files and came across a HD Williams logo; one thing I noticed was that there was a "R" style registration mark on it.

I downsized it and added it as my new UserLogo

The image I used can be found here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mGTVpmNuFG4XuzlKMgV6mqfLelrbMmwu/view?usp=sharing

Please don't download this and install it in your game, I'm only showing it here as a reference image.

Thanks Pin_Guy!

There are a lot of logos on the other Remake club threads too, with some nice Williams ones in the MBR thread..

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It was super easy too, except when I dropped my SD card into the cabinet.

Some people have asked me about making a flasher mod for the backboard to simulate lightning effects. I finally got around to making one for my game. The effects are most visible when multiball starts and you hear the thunder and see the lightning on the screen. It’s an easy solder job to the flasher light board on the back panel. If anyone wants one, we will have them on our website and pinside shop later today. It’s just $15 shipped and will include a 15” led strip and two leads to solder to the board. I can offer it in red, blue, purple, white and green, purple would be the best imo.

Short vid with purple flasher and a white backboard light.

Trust me...inquired about that 1 left many months ago, clickbait....the seller has many used car salesman stories, but in the end only has classics and bologna for sale and in stock - beware, lol...

Any direct links you can share please???

A video would be sweet for those of us, like myself, technology challenged , showing how exactly to change the logo step by step. If anyone has time...thanks in advance!

Not doing a video but it's pretty much all here...

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From here just follow the directions on the screen. BTW when it asks you to press "Launch" it literally means the ball launch button on the game.

I just downloaded the image I liked, renamed it, and slapped in onto a microSD and followed the directions. Couldn't be much simpler.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1THp-UwMFn_A4XMPIahoYMrmyGP8mlwNr

Thanks to Ricochet for the link.

I would imagine anything even better would be yet better. Pyle is literally pyle of shit. its the shitybrand you see at like Walmart and AutoZone as replacement speakers. and I used to work there back in High school. man those pyle speakers and dual were all PURE shit. lolool

Back about 15 years ago when I was in the Navy Kickers were good. Now they are maybe only a step above the store bought stuff but for 70, on a pinball machine I bet they are awesome. I never thought to use car audio speakers as I figured these were semi custom or what not, but if you mention pyle they just got the cheapest shit they could find.

Frankly at least on the upper tier Remakes they should have already used the better ones but. eh. I think I will try this in my Stranger things as well. Did you need to buy a driver? What about a better small 8inch or 6inch car sub too with an external amp? THAT would eliminate the need for a shaker hahaahahah

the fuck 12k?> No way that is US dollars? what a rip?

Hello MMR pinheads,

has someone replaced speakers other than with the Kicker 47KSC3504 in his MMR (3.5 inch). JBL, Alpine for example?

I called CGC today and was told they plan on making more SE's but it could be next year, it could be in three years, it could be in...

None the less, I might have to wait to avoid the insane price gouging.

Question?

MMR LE (local pickup) for 85 or NIB MMR CE for 88 including shipping? Or wait till I can find an SE at a reasonable price or they make more SE's? (I know it could be years)

The LE might have some castle issues as the towers didn't move that much when blown up. It was not a dramatic explosion at all. The left front leg also has a noticeable scratch on the powder coat, and there were swords glued to the top of the flippers, not glued cleanly either. One was actually off and loose.

Does the LE have a color chip already?

Not much to the towers. Four screws and the whole tower assembly lifts off. Easy to work on, fix springs or anything. A plunger kicks up and rocks the big tower which in turn rocks three of the four smaller ones.

Maybe plunger issue or broken base of the big one that the plunger whacks.

LTG : )

No, it doesn’t.

I would go for CE for $300 more for sure.

Agree, not much value add there besides the shaker. Go NIB or get a bit more off the used LE.

Is the LE mint? HUO? Low game plays? Any other upgrades? is it stainless, black, or gold powder coating? If it doesn't have color he can get the chip for $200 (versus $400)....I would offer him 83 and have him try and buy the discounted color chip