Scroll down a way to see the variations.

https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness

LTG : )

As long as it has the upgrade color chip in it, I believe so.

And the latest software.

LTG : )

Hi guys . Bought a MMR special. And have the topper kit. The install instructions don’t seem to cover my scenario. My special already has a topper board??? Yet the topper kit came with a new board? Do I neee to remove the old little board and add this new longer one?

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Standard. Manufactured 2017. CGC emailed me back and confirmed none of these cables should have Z-connectors on them.

I'd do that.

LTG : )

The only improvement I noticed is the voices are easier to hear over the background sound with V3.0. Other than that the only other reason I see to upgrade to 3.0 is for the larger display and the topper and the RGB lighting upgrades that require 3.0

I updated the code whilst waiting for my parts to arrive. I still don’t have the upgrades in and can confirm it is not the speakers. Even with the original speakers it is extremely loud. It definitely did not ‘bong’ on the previous version of code.

So that nobody else has to suffer through this like I have:

The Z connectors are needed on each of the new GI strings. This is because they connect to an adapter cable, essentially a new bus, that is used from the new topper PCB. The manual doesn’t state this until step 72. Up until that point the instructions are to replace each GI string at a time, one by one, like for like. So I connected them into the GI headers on the playfield PCB as I swapped them out. My first clue was when spotlight power cable wanted me to use GI2.. and I kept saying “but GI2 is already in use!”. CGC repurposed it.

Do yourself a favor and look at the diagram on the very last page of the manual before you do anything. It makes it all clear.

Net result is, unfortunately, I’m still short one z-connector for the topper PCB 12v.

Looks like you found your answer so good deal. There are a lot of variations of MMR and they all seem to have slightly different rules but a missing part is a missing part.

I ended up with an extra z connector from making my XL display color changing so if you’re planning to do that...

Looks like I'll be cutting a lot of wires and crimping a bunch of molex pins for this mod. The first thing I did on the XL display mod was to throw away the wire nuts and remove the pre-soldered wires from the new Sub Woofer

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If anyone finds a source for z connections please post it here. Only ones I found online were too large. Heard the company who originally made these is out of business. Tks.

I soldered the new sub in as well. Getting the old board up was a pain. It didn’t just lift up from one side as the manual suggests. It split in half, and then again. On the last corner the wood split horizontally leaving 1/8” or so. The only way I was going to get the rest was with a sander.

I’ve already spent 2x the time on this than I expected, and I still have the topper to finish tomorrow.

Soldering the speaker wire is the best way to do it. Wire nuts is not a long term solution.

I used a putty knife to remove the speaker base. Took my time and did not force anything. The staples were the hardest thing to work around.

My speaker lights don’t work. Tracing the wires, the 4 red-yellow-green-blue go to a y adapter for power from the display controller. That only has 2 leads, which presumably is +12v and ground. The connector is ... Non-standard, to be nice about it, and it appears the pins may be off by one.

I believe someone else mentioned a similar problem? I’ll go read a few pages back in the thread, but if whomever that was reads this, I’d be curious what your solution was. Just moving it over by one won’t make it RGB. My guess is this factory configuration is for MMRs without the GI upgrade.

It’s a 10-pin connector with enough slack to make it to the new PCB, but there are no 10 pin connectors there. J8 on the main controller is 10-pin, but I used a multimeter to see if the pins would change based on changing the colors in the test menu and it didn’t correlate, unless of course the connector is off.

I’ve re-read all 3 manuals - there is nothing mentioned about the speaker light connection.

Sigh.

Yes that was me. The pins were off by one, once I adjusted them, the speaker lights now work. However they are not color changing. I know others on here were able to mod them to be color changing but that is not standard out of the box functionality. I will tackle that project later. Good luck!

Thanks for the info. Very surprising. The RGB LEDs are there! CGC just got cheap at the end? I can’t imagine it will be very difficult to wire it to one of the GI strings.

This kit has been a headache. The topper is working, but the test mode doesn’t correspond with the lights. I think I read someone thought it was a bug with the test itself. The switch in my VUK stopped working. A wire had come off, probably when I was re-wiring the pop lights which were exceptionally tight (I ended up jumpering one of them). A quick solder job and it’s working. But now the right ramp diverter isn’t returning to the up position. Electrically it’s fine. I think the spring may need to be replaced. Coincidence, I think.

No.

LTG : )

Ok Lloyd, I’ll bite. The kits are supposed to make a pin a royal edition minus the powder coat. The RGB lights are there ... why not complete the wiring? The GI bus cable could easily have had a connector for the speaker lights. So.. why?

No they never were.

Just to help the original MMR's look more like AFM and MBR with the big display and toppers.

CGC didn't want to leave the owners left behind.

LTG : )

You can move a few pins and get your RGB lights. The directions have been posted several times and it only takes a couple minutes.

Happened to me too. One pin over. I fixed it but later did the RGB speakers. Luckily doing the RBG mod is really easy.

I decided that the best tool for this job was a flat pry bar https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-9-1-2-in-Pry-Bar-PB1-HDX/206509439 you can lay this flat on the bottom of the cabinet and just pound it through; for best results, you want to work side to side pounding it in a few inches at a time until you are close to the middle of the board. The original speaker came out much cleaner than I thought it would.

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Yea installed the smaller one (while leaving the larger one previously installed in place ). Works great! Per Cgc I’m to remove the older one. It’s in the way for the smaller one to be permanently installed. Just haven’t got to it yet.
Instructions weren’t clear on that whole set up. But the peeps at cgc and LTG made it smoother.

Thanks, I’ll go look. It’s a small thing. I was just surprised by it. Now if I could figure out what’s going on with this diverter. I’ve disabled it for now otherwise you can never get damsel. I tried a little lube but that didn’t do it. I’ve ordered a new spring.

finished my RGB bumpers today
got the clear caps from Rick, so the machine looks perfect

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SOLD

yes CGC did a great job to offer this kits.

stern would never do this

Agreed, I am so thankful I could bring my Classic MMR up to date LOVING it.

Nice! When does this mod become available?

That’s awesome sir! One of these days I’ll make that happen too.

Agreed; if someone made a upgrade your upgrade kit, I’d be into it!

Advice needed ... how to get a cable to reach that's too short?

MMR Topper cable is about 1" too short to reach the board and the board is EXACTLY where its suppose be. I really dont want to move the board as I still have the RGB GI Mod to do and if I raise the board then these wires may be problematic...

I'm actually a little perturbed at how they try to not use a cm more wire that is absolutely necessary.

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Move it up a little.

Not if you raise it a little.

LTG : )

We moved the board up. The RGB speakers mod wasn’t an issue but we did have to move some of the other cables a bit and the ground cable is BARELY long enough.

Not sure how you figure this as these feed from the bottom and if I move it up a little these wires need to be longer than anticipated by the engineer.

I'm annoyed enough, I think I'm going to flat out list it as defective and get a replacement from my distributor; problems like this should never ever happen. The sad thing is the cables on the replacement will probably be too short as well.

I had no problem wire went on. Didn't move the board.

Does your topper also stick out 1/8" past the front of the backbox sot that if you lower the backbox, the topper actually rests on the glass? This was another unexpected surprise I ran into...I blame myself for this one for trusting the pattern and not trial fitting the pattern to the topper before I started

I even though of that right after I drilled the mounting holes...

Y

Yeah

IMO this is poor engineering...maybe I'm too detail oriented but I would never have passed this, with a half inch of free space behind the toper there is zero reason for it protrude past the front edge of the back box. It actually detracts from the appearance of the topper having it hang over the edge like that.

Thanks for pointing this out; agree it sounds like poor engineering. Have our mods in the box and planned to start later this week. Appreciate everyone sharing their experiences in this thread!

If you decide to drill these holes 1/8 further back. you are going to have to be very accurate as you only have around 1/4" to play with before the tee nuts wont fit.

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I agree, and mine is exactly the same....not sure why they did this, but it is what it is

Also, be prepared to move the knocker plate a bit to the right.

WARNING! This post contains only factual information and is presented without sugar on top so if you are easily offended you may want to stop here.
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In order to test this topper and board, I temporarily raised the board 2" by screwing the board to the backbox using its bottom mount position holes in the top holes in the back box; this is the MINIMUM height I would want it at to be able to connect the wire to the board without straining the connector and wires.

The next step was to install the small network hub, this device has to screw mount cable ties around it to mount it into the backbox. Whoever put these on really wrenched them down, no way these are coming loose; however, they obviously don't know what the application is for, and can either not read the direction, or the directions were not specific in any way, or did not have enough pictures of what it should look like. Its also possible they didn't give a damn and are just going through the motions.

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Yeah I see that, If I actually run this ground wire through the proper route, it will barely make it to the board...but, if I then raise the playfield, there is a great deal of strain on this cable, if I allow enough slack (per instructions) and route it through the split loom with the rest of the playfield wiring, the ground wire is right at 2" too short to reach the board in is raised location meaning it is cut at the exact length needed to work...this is exactly my concern with the RGB GI wiring, everything is so tightly spec'd to save that inch or two of wiring that if anything isn't right you are essentially screwed!

Thanks for pointing this out, I forgot about that, I milled a half moon shaped notch in mine so I can mount it in its original location. I dont really have to worry about it as code updates on my machine lock on the knocker and blow the fuse. When I discussed this with the CGC engineer, and asked if they can send me a replacement he was kind enough to let me know pinball life has good priced on fuses. I firmly believe that this issue, just like the code update is tied to the original Beagle Bone boards that were used in the very early production run.
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Holly SHIT! I forgot to put the plunger back in ... so much for being detail oriented...

My screw mount cable ties arrived the same way. I believe this was on purpose. Bend them down and screw them in...provides for a snug fit. I also chose to mount this on the left side, instead of the right as directed, because it made the wiring less of a stretch. Good luck.

I didn’t notice the topper overhang thing until just now, thanks now I’ll never unsee it, lol.

I DO wish the topper was on a thinner base, like the stern toppers are. I know it’s to have room for the flashers and whatnot but I just think it looks better on a less noticeable base, and like it’s coming up from the backbox itself.

As for the wiring length, I have lowered my backbox with the wiring (except the ground) plugged in and it was fine, so I think you’ll be okay.

Prior to installing my board I measured to see how long the cables were and temporarily taped the board in place. This exact same issue occurred on AFMRLE topper installation so apparently CGC hasn't learned their lesson. I mean how hard is it to make another 8 inches of cable