(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

6 years ago


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  • 673 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Pin-Pilot
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#7701 1 year ago

I was thinking it was only bonging loud with LE or standard. Until PtownPin chimed in with no loud bong (I looked at his collection and he has a LE), I only saw a Royal that said his game did not make the loud bong.

I just reinstalled 3.0 and it still makes the obnoxious loud bong.

Here is a video of the last part of install in time-lapse.

#7702 1 year ago

Has to be the board set.

#7703 1 year ago

I don't know about MMr, but my Monster Bash remake does make a (very) loud bong at startup (and other MBr owners have reported it also).

It's quite loud and is not affected by the volume setting. Supposedly it got louder after people upgraded to version 1.0.3 (when they re-worked the audio), but I cannot confirm that personally.

It's just something I live with.

#7704 1 year ago

My MM Royal makes the loud Bong sound on startup as well. It would be nice if there was a setting to disable it.

#7705 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

I was thinking it was only bonging loud with LE or standard. Until ptownpin chimed in with no loud bong (I looked at his collection and he has a LE), I only saw a Royal that said his game did not make the loud bong.
I just reinstalled 3.0 and it still makes the obnoxious loud bong.
Here is a video of the last part of install in time-lapse.

I'll fire it up again later tonight to confirm, but to my knowledge I haven't heard a loud bong... and yes I have a MMRLE that I added the topper to and I'm running the latest software.

#7706 1 year ago

Every real WPC game makes that sound, so obviously the remakes (which emulate the WPC hardware) are going to make it too. Even Williams/Midway arcade games make that sound. It’s their way of saying “Hey! I’m on!” and it needs to be loud enough that the operator could hear it in a loud environment. It’s normal folks.

Now if you’re hearing the “alert” sound after that, then you have something to look into...

#7707 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Every real WPC game makes that sound, so obviously the remakes (which emulate the WPC hardware) are going to make it too. Even their arcade games make that sound. It’s their way of saying “Hey! I’m on!” and it needs to be loud enough that the operator could hear it in a loud environment. It’s normal folks.

There seems to be a variety of normals here.

My MMRLE before V3.0 did not make the startup bong. And some here are saying that their game does not make the sound. In a home environment it is not needed and actually a bit annoying. I would turn it off if there was an option to do so.

#7708 1 year ago

I don't mind that it makes the "bong" sound (my Whitewater makes the "bong" too), but the bong on MBr is MUCH louder than that.

I've owned Whitewater for 25 years now, and my wife never even noticed/cared about the bong.

On my MBr, every time I power it up she says "Why is that so loud?" or "Can't you turn that down?"

#7709 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I'll fire it up again later tonight to confirm, but to my knowledge I haven't heard a loud bong... and yes I have a MMRLE that I added the topper to and I'm running the latest software.

Mine doesn’t do it... Same machine

#7710 1 year ago
Quoted from Reefkeep:

Mine doesn’t do it... Same machine

My MMR LE never had the bong noise on start up since the day I got the color chip and updated. I posted the question of why it was missing 4 years ago. I never received an answer.

Screenshot_20201104_125358_com.android.chrome (resized).jpg
#7711 1 year ago
Quoted from Reefkeep:

Mine doesn’t do it... Same machine

Here is a pic of my board in the head. Rev 1.1 on the main board. Not sure what board would be making the loud Bong. Can you look at yours and see if there is any difference?

I would like to get to the source of this bong and see if I can eliminate it. May just have to live with it if it is a board issue.

Screen Shot 2020-11-04 at 10.51.21 AM (resized).png
#7712 1 year ago

I have the same board set and get the loud bong since upgrade to 3.0. I also have the moat kickout intermittently firing. I see the flash and hear the kickout during play. I checked the opto with switch test and it seems fine. I will have to dig into it further. Have any of you seen this issue?

Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Here is a pic of my board in the head. Rev 1.1 on the main board. Not sure what board would be making the loud Bong. Can you look at yours and see if there is any difference?
I would like to get to the source of this bong and see if I can eliminate it. May just have to live with it if it is a board issue.[quoted image]

#7713 1 year ago
Quoted from nocreditdot:

I have the same board set and get the loud bong since upgrade to 3.0. I also have the moat kickout intermittently firing. I see the flash and hear the kickout during play. I checked the opto with switch test and it seems fine. I will have to dig into it further. Have any of you seen this issue?

Have never had my moat VUK fire for no reason. At least that I have heard or seen.

#7714 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Have never had my moat VUK fire for no reason. At least that I have heard or seen.

Same! No moat VUK fire...but still the bong.

#7715 1 year ago
Quoted from nocreditdot:

I have the same board set and get the loud bong since upgrade to 3.0. I also have the moat kickout intermittently firing. I see the flash and hear the kickout during play. I checked the opto with switch test and it seems fine. I will have to dig into it further. Have any of you seen this issue?

It's been mentioned above. The bong is from the emulation of the WPC system. 1 bong means the sound card is operating normally (on a real WPC system), which has nothing to do with the alert sound to indicate the machine itself has an error. It's only a sound card self-test.

It's supposed to make the bong. Why some do not is certainly a mystery but like on a real WPC it's not something you can turn off - it's part of the WPC self-check.

Since it's emulated however and there is no actual sound card, the bong is useless. CGC *could/should* make it a CGC system setting to enable or disable the sound (or at least have it at the same volume as the game is at).

#7716 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Here is a pic of my board in the head. Rev 1.1 on the main board. Not sure what board would be making the loud Bong. Can you look at yours and see if there is any difference?
I would like to get to the source of this bong and see if I can eliminate it. May just have to live with it if it is a board issue.[quoted image]

I have this same board and my bong is now loud after 3.0... thats the real issue is how LOUD it is... LOL

#7717 1 year ago

My MMRRE and MBRLE make the bong sound on startup but my AFMRLE does not. Did the original AFM do it?

#7718 1 year ago

I opened a ticket with CGC about the loud tone. I'm not overly concerned as my MMRLE seems to be working fine otherwise, but would be nice to know if there's a way to adjust the volume etc. I'll circle back if I learn anything that would help the group here.

#7719 1 year ago
Quoted from HarryReimer:

I have this same board and my bong is now loud after 3.0... thats the real issue is how LOUD it is... LOL

My granddaughter turns mine on when she visits and it now scares the life out of her!!!
She has just been diagnosed with autism spectrum disorder today and is only 5, explains why she doesn’t like loud noises so would be good for an option to turn off or quieter as she likes to turn them on.

#7720 1 year ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

how old is your mmr? some of the very early ones might need the actual board updated to a newer version that has more memory on it. open a ticket with cgc and they should be able to tell you wich one you have.

It's old, built with one of the first run playfields that didn't need a diffuser. I'm not sure what firmware the Beagle Bone board has but it's my experience these are color coded mine looks to be blue violet.
pasted_image (resized).png

#7721 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

It's old, built with one of the first run playfields that didn't need a diffuser. I'm not sure what firmware the Beagle Bone board has but it's my experience these are color coded mine looks to be blue violet.
[quoted image]

yeah, you will want to get in contact with CGC and verify if this is an older board that might need replacing in order to update to 3.0

#7722 1 year ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

you will want to get in contact with CGC and verify if this is an older board that might need replacing in order to update to 3.0

He has 3.0 in the game. The screen says failed when update stopped. But if you check the CGC menu first page. 3.0 is in there.

You can contact CGC, they'll tell you the same thing.

LTG : )

#7723 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

He has 3.0 in the game. The screen says failed when update stopped. But if you check the CGC menu first page. 3.0 is in there.
You can contact CGC, they'll tell you the same thing.
LTG : )

So there's 19% of the process that.. does nothing?

#7724 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

So there's 19% of the process that.. does nothing?

I like how you try to sass the guy who ACTUALLY provides tech support for CGC. Maybe instead you should listen to him.

It's been covered so many times in this thread. The process seems to fail but it doesn't. If you are on v3.0 according to the system then you are ok.

Just a few posts above it's been explained how they found the problem was in the closeout of the update process AFTER it's been done.

#7725 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

like how you try to sass the guy who ACTUALLY provides tech support for CGC. Maybe instead you should listen to him.

As a developer, I'm laughing because I know that if I give my users a progress bar, and it stops under 100%, it means SOMETHING didn't happen properly. And if my support team told people that it was 'expected', it:
1. Can create unknown and hard-to-track issues in the future,
2. Give the company a bad rep ('Oh, yeah, things suck, but it works')

For example people are talking about why SOME games 'bong' and some don't - stopping an upgrade at 81% percent and calling it good.. could be a reason. Or why a color screen isn't working right, or why volumes of some callouts aren't right volume - because while they THINK they're on "3.0", certain assets weren't copied properly.

So, what started out as a joke and simple sassing, I do not have any empthathy for LTG and other support people if, months from now, people start having more small issues like this - or new ones where v3.1 can't install because of a mismatched checksum or SHA hash somewhere on the system.

So, go ahead and dis me - but that shows some potential issues that may come back and bite folks in the future.

#7726 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

As a developer, I'm laughing because I know that if I give my users a progress bar, and it stops under 100%, it means SOMETHING didn't happen properly. And if my support team told people that it was 'expected', it:
1. Can create unknown and hard-to-track issues in the future,
2. Give the company a bad rep ('Oh, yeah, things suck, but it works')
For example people are talking about why SOME games 'bong' and some don't - stopping an upgrade at 81% percent and calling it good.. could be a reason. Or why a color screen isn't working right, or why volumes of some callouts aren't right volume - because while they THINK they're on "3.0", certain assets weren't copied properly.
So, what started out as a joke and simple sassing, I do not have any empthathy for LTG and other support people if, months from now, people start having more small issues like this - or new ones where v3.1 can't install because of a mismatched checksum or SHA hash somewhere on the system.
So, go ahead and dis me - but that shows some potential issues that may come back and bite folks in the future.

No worries I ain't dissin' and I totally get where you're coming from. I find it piss poor quality control on their part. I mean seriously how complicated can it be for them to program their OWN system correctly.

However in the end if it's an indication/info problem and not a true issue then it doesn't matter (I come from the aviation world lol).

Agree they should correct the problem.. Covid shouldn't be used for an excuse for that. Makes them look sloppy.

#7727 1 year ago

Joined the club today got a little surprise when Fedex Delivered it yesterday though.
I accepted it because it was the last MMrRE NIB in existence i think or that i could find anyway.
So it looks like I am doing a decal and Fedex will pay a damage claim.
Played last night played perfect out of the box !
What a cool pin !

20201104_132738 (resized).jpg20201104_132905 (resized).jpg
#7728 1 year ago
Quoted from Theboatnics:

Joined the club today got a little surprise when Fedex Delivered it yesterday though.
I accepted it because it was the last MMrRE NIB in existence i think or that i could find anyway.
So it looks like I am doing a decal and Fedex will pay a damage claim.
Played last night played perfect out of the box !
What a cool pin !
[quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats on a great pin...sucks about the decal....u should not only get the cost of the new decal, but the labor to replace. I know older games its a lot of work, but not sure how difficult it is on a new game

#7729 1 year ago
Quoted from Theboatnics:

Joined the club today got a little surprise when Fedex Delivered it yesterday though.
I accepted it because it was the last MMrRE NIB in existence i think or that i could find anyway.
So it looks like I am doing a decal and Fedex will pay a damage claim.
Played last night played perfect out of the box !
What a cool pin !
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, Welcome. Sorry it came with extra work. Guess it could have been a lot worse. I'd go for a new cabinet. The forklift arm may have damaged the wood as well. Or make sure you are reimbursed for the labor to do any repairs to the wood underneath. I am sure it is minimal however you will probably notice if the wood was damaged through the new decal.

#7730 1 year ago

Gut punch for sure. My box was pristine, but my side decal wasn't. Solution: file claim for a new decal and then put it up against the wall. One of these days when I have the gumption I will fix it...until then, wall of shame.

#7731 1 year ago
Quoted from Oaken:

Gut punch for sure. My box was pristine, but my side decal wasn't. Solution: file claim for a new decal and then put it up against the wall. One of these days when I have the gumption I will fix it...until then, wall of shame.

I'm wondering since these games are new if the decal comes off easily? We all know that getting decals off older games is a total pain in the ass.

#7732 1 year ago
Quoted from broada:

I opened a ticket with CGC about the loud tone. I'm not overly concerned as my MMRLE seems to be working fine otherwise, but would be nice to know if there's a way to adjust the volume etc. I'll circle back if I learn anything that would help the group here.

I heard from CGC on my ticket about the loud startup tone:
'What you are hearing is standard in all the WPC era games. It is the WPC system coming on line. It is in the original code and unfortunately we cannot remove it.'

I asked about the volume of the tone, and was told over the phone that the tone occurs before any code that controls the amp's attenuation is online, so we are hearing this tone at full volume. Could be that the upgraded speakers are more efficient than the previous speakers, so this full volume sounds quite a bit louder.

#7733 1 year ago
Quoted from broada:

I heard from CGC on my ticket about the loud startup tone:
'What you are hearing is standard in all the WPC era games. It is the WPC system coming on line. It is in the original code and unfortunately we cannot remove it.'
I asked about the volume of the tone, and was told over the phone that the tone occurs before any code that controls the amp's attenuation is online, so we are hearing this tone at full volume. Could be that the upgraded speakers are more efficient than the previous speakers, so this full volume sounds quite a bit louder.

I wonder why it is happening to a lot (including myself) AFTER upgrading to 3.0.

There was no tone when I was running an earlier version ( I do not recall the version).

Then there are some here that do not have the tone. Still strange.

It is not the end of the world issue however there seems to be big inconsistencies !

#7734 1 year ago
Quoted from broada:

I heard from CGC on my ticket about the loud startup tone:
'What you are hearing is standard in all the WPC era games. It is the WPC system coming on line. It is in the original code and unfortunately we cannot remove it.'
I asked about the volume of the tone, and was told over the phone that the tone occurs before any code that controls the amp's attenuation is online, so we are hearing this tone at full volume. Could be that the upgraded speakers are more efficient than the previous speakers, so this full volume sounds quite a bit louder.

The speaker thing is my theory, plus I bet they made some changes to how the sound was equalized to address the muffled voices from the initial MMR release.

#7735 1 year ago

Bring back the Bong!

#7736 1 year ago

My Royal also makes the loud BONG sound when done booting. It’s just a whatever but always makes me think, what was that

#7737 1 year ago

I’m in the midst of installing all 3 kits and I seem to be missing a part. This is Pin-Pilot’s picture that I borrowed (thanks!). I’ve circled the part I think I’m missing. There is a Y-splitter/cable that takes the original 12v and powers the original controller and the new topper PCB. This cable has all female ends. The source cable is also female. It appears I should have a female-to-female adapter. It’s not listed on the parts list for any of the manuals, but the GI manual does make mention of a “power cable adapter”.

I have a ticket open with CGC, but it would be nice to get some validation that I’m not missing something obvious. For those that already installed their kits, was that adapter included, or was it already attached the the 3-connector power cable?

Thanks.

A8C18262-888F-48CB-A842-3D739D9D88EF (resized).jpeg
#7738 1 year ago
Quoted from andrewket:

I’m in the midst of installing all 3 kits and I seem to be missing a part. This is pin-pilot’s picture that I borrowed (thanks!). I’ve circled the part I think I’m missing. There is a Y-splitter/cable that takes the original 12v and powers the original controller and the new topper PCB. This cable has all female ends. The source cable is also female. It appears I should have a female-to-female adapter. It’s not listed on the parts list for any of the manuals, but the GI manual does make mention of a “power cable adapter”.
I have a ticket open with CGC, but it would be nice to get some validation that I’m not missing something obvious. For those that already installed their kits, was that adapter included, or was it already attached the the 3-connector power cable?
Thanks.
[quoted image]

Yes, It is called a Z-connector. I purchased just the board from a pinsider and he sent this connector I believe with it and other cables. But you can buy one here:
https://www.pinballlife.com/4-pin-malemale-z-connector.html
IMG_1406 (resized).jpg

#7739 1 year ago

are they done making MM Royals?

#7740 1 year ago
Quoted from andrewket:

I’m in the midst of installing all 3 kits and I seem to be missing a part. This is pin-pilot’s picture that I borrowed (thanks!). I’ve circled the part I think I’m missing. There is a Y-splitter/cable that takes the original 12v and powers the original controller and the new topper PCB. This cable has all female ends. The source cable is also female. It appears I should have a female-to-female adapter. It’s not listed on the parts list for any of the manuals, but the GI manual does make mention of a “power cable adapter”.
I have a ticket open with CGC, but it would be nice to get some validation that I’m not missing something obvious. For those that already installed their kits, was that adapter included, or was it already attached the the 3-connector power cable?
Thanks.
[quoted image]

Join the club....CCG forgot add all my cables, and board in my package....they sent out the missing parts fairly quickly

#7741 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

are they done making MM Royals?

There’s never been an official statement from CGC saying that they’re done making them. I own one but I’m assuming they’ll make them again at some point.

#7742 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Yes, It is called a Z-connector. I purchased just the board from a pinsider and he sent this connector I believe with it and other cables. But you can buy one here:
https://www.pinballlife.com/4-pin-malemale-z-connector.html
[quoted image]

Exactly this. Thank you.

#7743 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

are they done making MM Royals?

CGC has said this will be the only run of the Royals, so if they finished this run then they are. They could always create more add-ons in the future and have another edition that they make.

#7744 1 year ago
Quoted from wamoc:

CGC has said this will be the only run of the Royals, so if they finished this run then they are. They could always create more add-ons in the future and have another edition that they make.

The King of Payne edition which comes with brass armor and a real hawk.

#7745 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Yes, It is called a Z-connector. I purchased just the board from a pinsider and he sent this connector I believe with it and other cables. But you can buy one here:
https://www.pinballlife.com/4-pin-malemale-z-connector.html
[quoted image]

Fyi, those are too large, wrong size.

#7746 1 year ago

Ok, this is getting even stranger. Either I have an odd version of MMR, someone at CGC is losing it, or I am.

While I wait on a Z connector (either from CGC or the one I ordered from pinball life), I decided to continue the work.

I’m now on the first string of GI, MM-CBL-IDCGIL1(rev 0). On the end, guess what it has? A Z-connector, turning the connector from female to male. The problem is, the playfield PCB GI1 connector is male! If I remove the z-connector, it mates just fine. Looking at the remaining five GI strings, they all have z-connectors on them with electrical tape keeping them together. This is from CGC.

Sooooooo WTF? Anyone else have a kit handy and can look? Is it possible someone incorrectly put Z-connectors on all my GI strings but forgot to put it on the topper PCB power cable where it’s actually needed?
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#7747 1 year ago

What version of MMR do you have? Is it a “standard” from the early runs or a “classic” from the more recent runs?

#7748 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

He has 3.0 in the game. The screen says failed when update stopped. But if you check the CGC menu first page. 3.0 is in there.

You can contact CGC, they'll tell you the same thing.

I can confirm this is a true statement...it's debatable if this is an issue, some will say that the mere fact that the code fails to complete successfully is in itself an issue regardless if the game works or not. CGC will say if it works it doesn't matter regardless if its a board issue or not. IMO this is driven mainly by cost as if they were to admit to an issue with the original boards used they would have to replace a few hundred of them. I am almost positive if I replace the Beagle bone board the problem would go away, it may also fix the issue I have with the knocker coil locking on every time you start a game update.

#7749 1 year ago
Quoted from andrewket:

Sooooooo WTF? Anyone else have a kit handy and can look? Is it possible someone incorrectly put Z-connectors on all my GI strings but forgot to put it on the topper PCB power cable where it’s actually needed?

I haven't unboxed my kit yet but I plan on doing this mod over the weekend, I'll let you know what I find out.

#7750 1 year ago

what version should I go after? What do you get on the higher up remake versions over the original? other than rgb and led lights. and the topper and larger color dmd?

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