(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

6 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Botfly
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There are 8,875 posts in this topic. You are on page 153 of 178.
#7601 1 year ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

Guss, How long from time of order did it take for pinwize to make and ship them? Was shipping itself slow? Ty.

Not sure it was before the vires shit. I think 3-4 weeks

#7602 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I don't think pinbits is in business anymore? At least they don't stock much and never answer the phone or emails....I would use Cliffs merlin hole protector.....mine has been flawless for years

I just bought a complete set of Cliffy’s, including the carbon Merlin hole. Is yours the metal one? If not, how is the carbon working out?

#7603 1 year ago
Quoted from CigarPundit:

If not, how is the carbon working out?

I have the carbon protector on mine and it works perfect. No ball hang-ups, no chipping or damage.
IMG_2783 (resized).JPG

#7604 1 year ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

Cool, thanks. Just ordered a set. About how long did it take until you received your set after ordering? How hard was the install?

Took just a couple of days to receive them (yesterday). Haven’t installed yet, but it looks straightforward from the email I got from Devin (the new Pinwize owner).

#7605 1 year ago

Hey hey folks. I'm sure you get this here a lot but I figured it couldn't hurt: If anyone is looking to move their MMR, please let me know. TIA.

#7606 1 year ago
Quoted from CigarPundit:

I just bought a complete set of Cliffy’s, including the carbon Merlin hole. Is yours the metal one? If not, how is the carbon working out?

I have the carbon protector....working great

#7607 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I don't think pinbits is in business anymore? At least they don't stock much and never answer the phone or emails....I would use Cliffs merlin hole protector.....mine has been flawless for years

correct, the carbon merlin hole protector works fine but not with a playfield protector.
I forgot to mention the Drawbridge Edge by Cliffy which is nice too.

#7608 1 year ago
Quoted from neverahighscore:

I have the carbon protector on mine and it works perfect. No ball hang-ups, no chipping or damage.
[quoted image]

did you also buy Cliffy's ramp protectors?

I see on yours that it looks like you have them on there, unless CGC is putting those metal ones on at factory

#7609 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

did you also buy Cliffy's ramp protectors?
I see on yours that it looks like you have them on there, unless CGC is putting those metal ones on at factory

CGC is putting those on at the factory.

#7610 1 year ago

correct, the carbon merlin hole protector works fine but not with a playfield protector.
I forgot to mention the Drawbridge Edge by Cliffy which is nice too.</blockqu

gotcha...so what do you use with a play field protector?

#7611 1 year ago
Quoted from wamoc:

CGC is putting those on at the factory.

My MMR LE didnt have them so I installed Cliff's ....not sure if I really needed them, but I installed and they look and work great

#7612 1 year ago

PtownPin
here in Germany/Central Europe the highly recommended and reselled by the distributors Playfield Protectors are from Sebastian https://www.playfield-protectors.com/

#7613 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

My MMR LE didnt have them so I installed Cliff's ....not sure if I really needed them, but I installed and they look and work great

Fyi, the Mantis for behind the castle moat is 1000 times easier to install than Cliffy's since it does not require removal of the castle above. I was able to install from underneath by simply loosening the moat screws.

I have a combo of both Cliffy, Mantis, and Pinbits...someone told me that Cliff makes the pinbits metal for the merlin scoop, but I cant confirm. If I had known, I would have asked him when ordering instead of paying a lot more and going all the way to my German buddy on here for the part he said sitting around...tks again my friend.

Only piece I didn't use from the Mantis was the Merlin scoop protector. Tried it, but the pinball got stuck always. Works for some, not others. I prefer the pinbits part anyway...so again, maybe ask Cliff if you want metal vs CF like I did to cosmetically match all the other metal pieces...

#7614 1 year ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

here again
[quoted image]

Would this connection (from post 7545) work with other speaker and flipper button RGB LED sets? Normally these are connected to 12v.

#7615 1 year ago

yes its the standard 12V line

but dont connect to much

the 12 V reserve is not very big, when you have the rgb kit installed

i had a lot problems with connected all rgb go leds to this new topper board
CGC is still looking at it

in the meantime i use a external PSU

IMG_3246 (1) (resized).jpeg
#7616 1 year ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

yes its the standard 12V line
but dont connect to much
the 12 V reserve is not very big, when you have the rgb kit installed
i had a lot problems with connected all rgb go leds to this new topper board
CGC is still looking at it
in the meantime i use a external PSU [quoted image]

Thanks for the feedback and for providing the insight into doing this. I already have a topper with its own power supply, so only the speaker lights were added to the circuit. Works great so far. What problems would I see if the circuit was unable to handle the load?

#7617 1 year ago
Quoted from PinScott:

Thanks for the feedback and for providing the insight into doing this. I already have a topper with its own power supply, so only the speaker lights were added to the circuit. Works great so far. What problems would I see if the circuit was unable to handle the load?

if there is to much load at the topper board, the machine will loose data packages and will go to low res and just green at some animations for 1 second

#7618 1 year ago

I have something new
A member from Luxembourg of the german flippermarkt board sells covers for the pinball glass against dust and dirt and when you open the backbox.
They look great. Quality is similar to a mousepad, rubberized underside, slightly glossy surface, nice logo print, lie flat on the glass and fit perfectly.
Also available for Stern, Williams JJP etc. in different versions.
I really like the cover.

Cover 1 (resized).jpgCover 2 (resized).jpg
#7619 1 year ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

I have something new
A member from Luxembourg of the german flippermarkt board sells covers for the pinball glass against dust and dirt and when you open the backbox.
They look great. Quality is similar to a mousepad, rubberized underside, slightly glossy surface, nice logo print, lie flat on the glass and fit perfectly.
Also available for Stern, Williams JJP etc. in different versions.
I really like the cover.[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks cool, do you have a link to that sellers site you can post here?

#7620 1 year ago

Anybody have this happen? Switch in shooter lane started to bend to the right, on a ball save, ball got hung up and wouldn’t launch. Some nudging helped, but I think I need to repair. Just bend back?

62BA0685-BCBB-410F-8435-8D06675669E6 (resized).jpeg
#7621 1 year ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Anybody have this happen?

In commercial use. Common occurrence.

Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Just bend back?

That works. At some point I'd have a spare handy. Ball coming up from the ball trough and hitting the switch can be hard on it.

A bit tricky to adjust. If it's a tiny bit lower. But still works and stays closed with a ball on it. Would be nice.

LTG : )

#7622 1 year ago

Finally arrived! (Well - both toppers in one day! Ordered Drac for the MB on Thursday and the MM topper on 7/28. Both arrived yesterday). Weird - my MMRe Special edition had a Topper2 pcb pre-installed. But the topper kit didn’t have the right harness to connect to it. I placed a ticket with CG but to make it work (yes after waiting patiently I had to!). I went ahead and installed the 2 card (Topper3 pcb) and wired per instructions. (Left the other one installed just in case??). But both are working and looking great !

9F0E29CA-6609-4835-B87C-E2FFFAEDF1E6 (resized).jpegC2970A0D-33BA-4BFB-81A4-63210922F4E0 (resized).jpegCEAC2B67-38C7-4F38-9F73-3DD1CBCB84EA (resized).jpeg
#7623 1 year ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Anybody have this happen? Switch in shooter lane started to bend to the right, on a ball save, ball got hung up and wouldn’t launch. Some nudging helped, but I think I need to repair. Just bend back?
[quoted image]

I've been dealing with this off and on since I got mine too. I just bend it back and it works until it gets bent again. I wonder if lowering it might help? Funny that none of my other games have had this issue and they are all over 25 years old.

#7624 1 year ago

What’s the best way to get a high score in this game?
I know about attacking the castle for most points, but is there a way to get the multipliers up high or any other strategy toward getting a GC?
Thanks.

#7625 1 year ago

back ins tock

MMR XL coat of arms stainless steel parts for the speakers.

59$ incl. shipping to usa

IMG_3263 (resized).jpg
#7626 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:

What’s the best way to get a high score in this game?
I know about attacking the castle for most points, but is there a way to get the multipliers up high or any other strategy toward getting a GC?
Thanks.

Get extra balls:
Easiest: destroy 2 castles
2nd easiest: get a super jackpot in castle multiball
3rd easiest: complete 10 hurry-ups

Scoring opportunities:
Stack the multiball madnesses before starting them. Then hit the double super jackpot(castle wall) as much as possible
Do the super skill shots(helps with getting 10 hurry ups too)
Video mode can rack up nice points(about 4m).
Win Battle for the Kingdom.(50m right there)

#7627 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:

What’s the best way to get a high score in this game?
I know about attacking the castle for most points, but is there a way to get the multipliers up high or any other strategy toward getting a GC?
Thanks.

Castle Hurry-Ups can add a lot of M's to your score as well. Here is a description. Be sure to get take advantage of Hurry-up multipliers...

***Castle Hurry-Up

The rule about Castle Hurry-Ups is somewhat confusing. If you've just completed Damsel Save, Catapult Slam, Peasant Revolt, Joust Victory, or Trolls! (in single-ball play), and this completion lights the corresponding Madness for Multiball Madness (i.e., sets the light to flashing), then this completion will NOT light or extend a Castle Hurry-Up. Otherwise, it will. In other words:

If you haven't played Multiball Madness yet, you won't get a Castle Hurry- Up unless you repeat something you've already completed.
If you have played Multiball Madness (but not yet Royal Madness), you get a Castle Hurry-Up every time.
Trolls! won't give you a Castle Hurry-Up during Multiball Madness.
You may also start Castle Hurry-Up via a Super Skill Shot or Merlin's Magic award.

The Castle Hurry-Up value starts at 1M and decreases rather quickly, to a minimum of 250K. Collect the Hurry-Up at the Main Entrance, regardless of the state of the current Castle.

If you complete another row of lights which would normally start a Castle Hurry-Up while one is running, the Hurry-Up resets to a higher value. The second completion adds 2M to the Hurry-Up value, then each successive completion adds 500K more than the last. So the Hurry-Up is worth 3M with two, 5.5M with 3, 8.5M with 4, 12M with 5, et cetera. If there is a limit, it is at least 25 million. The Hurry-Up counts down at the same speed, so there is no need to worry about it timing out if you have at least a double going.

Each Hurry-Up collected is counted (so a 3M Hurry-Up counts as two), and (default) 10 Hurry-Ups lights Extra Ball at Merlin's Saucer. A second EB is available at (yeesh) 40 Hurry-Ups.

Here is a good web page for rules...

http://pinball.org/rules/medievalmadness.html

#7628 1 year ago
Quoted from TimBoch:

I've been dealing with this off and on since I got mine too. I just bend it back and it works until it gets bent again. I wonder if lowering it might help?

I'd get a new switch. Once this happens it gets easier every time. Lower a tiny bit yet still works and stays closed with a ball on it.

This can happen on any game using the Williams style ball trough.

LTG : )

#7629 1 year ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

Can you show us real photos of it installed???

Here you go.

IMG_20201025_1325486 (resized).jpg
#7630 1 year ago

Has anyone in Canada got their kits yet?
I've had an order in with Player1 since March. I seen PPS make a recent post about some kits for sale at the start of October and still no word here about kits arriving.

#7631 1 year ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Get extra balls:
Easiest: destroy 2 castles
2nd easiest: get a super jackpot in castle multiball
3rd easiest: complete 10 hurry-ups

Completing Royal Madness is not too difficult once you get there, gives you an extra ball and scores pretty well also.

If youre going for the perfect stacked multiball (and highest scoring), Royal Madness follows immediately after. If youre playing that well that you got the perfect stack, finishing Royal Madness is not too hard (just 2 hits to every shot on one ball with a short ball save).

#7632 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Completing Royal Madness is not too difficult once you get there, gives you an extra ball and scores pretty well also.
If youre going for the perfect stacked multiball (and highest scoring), Royal Madness follows immediately after. If youre playing that well that you got the perfect stack, finishing Royal Madness is not too hard (just 2 hits to every shot on one ball with a short ball save).

I totally agree my original strategy was to stack multi balls, but lately I've decided to change it up and found that it was easier to through all the castles and get to battle for the kingdom by not stacking.....50M is a big payoff by just getting through castles

#7633 1 year ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

Here you go. [quoted image]

nice translite but the speaker panel looks so empty without the Williams plate

#7634 1 year ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

nice translite but the speaker panel looks so empty without the Williams plate

Are u making those?

#7635 1 year ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Nope.
So I replace the F1 Fuse on the solenoid driver board (4A 250V Slow Blow). Turn the game back on and I immediately blow the new fuse (tried twice). Any more suggestions?

What was the cause of your fuse blowing? My same fuse started blowing last night when the game powers on and trying to track down the issue now. Appears Transistor Q1 is bad on my board.

So far do not see any shorts, loose wires, etc.

#7636 1 year ago

Here is a post of how I added the color changing option to the speakers if you did not buy either the topper or the GI lighting option.

I have a MMRLE. I only purchased the XL display upgrade. If you do not order either the Topper or the GI RGB upgrade your speakers will stay blue all the time.

I saw a post here #6993 by kapsreiter and he described how to make the speakers color changing. A couple Pinsiders were upset about the speakers not changing colors.

kapsreiter added wires to a connector on the Topper board and the speakers come alive with color changing.

Well I only bought the XL display option. The kit comes with a larger sub woofer and XL display with speakers that have color rings integrated. However they only stay on the color Blue. You can change this color by moving a couple pins on the Speaker ring wiring but I wanted the rings to change colors with the display.

I purchased the Topper board from eharan after asking if anyone wanted to sell their extra board. Same board comes with the topper and the GI RGB upgrade kit. So you end up with extra board and wires.

You do need the wires to make this work!!!

Here are the pics of my install and a video link of the speakers.


IMG_1365 (resized).JPGIMG_1366 (resized).JPG

#7637 1 year ago

good job!

now you could start the GI upgrades

#7638 1 year ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

here again
[quoted image]

Keeping with your pictures, love that by the way, thank you. If this is the right wire does a tool exists to remove the pins in an elegant way?

3C81D2EE-7595-4F95-8FE8-30F9C8FA066B (resized).jpeg
#7639 1 year ago

Yes, that is where you need to disconnect.. You dont need a tool, use an exacto knife to press down on the metal connector and pull it out carefully.

#7640 1 year ago

What is the equivalent of the transistor used on the solenoid board?

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-MMR-MOSFET

#7641 1 year ago
Quoted from Reefkeep:

Keeping with your pictures, love that by the way, thank you. If this is the right wire does a tool exists to remove the pins in an elegant way?
[quoted image]

Yes, that is the connector if you JUST want to power another color other than blue. The two wires (BLK YEL) power the speaker LED's. The blue wire is currently powered. to power red you would have to replace the blue wire with the red.

I did not make any changes to the plug, with the post I made you just plug the connector into the Topper board. You can see the connector on the bottom right of the Topper Board. That is why there is so much extra wire on the speaker panel.

#7642 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

.I would use Cliffs merlin hole protector.....mine has been flawless for years

Cannot find the Merlin hole protector on Cliffs site...Can you post a link ...thx

#7643 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Cannot find the Merlin hole protector on Cliffs site...Can you post a link ...thx

just email Cliff....not sure why its not on his site

#7644 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Cannot find the Merlin hole protector on Cliffs site...Can you post a link ...thx

It is not on the page, Cliff has a backlog
Some other protectors too.
The carbon fiber Merlin hole protector cost approx. 12$

mail: [email protected]

#7645 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Good to know.
Beuller? Anyone want to sell their spare?

My "Topper kit" came with a Topper3 pcb board. My machine, when purchased, had a Topper2 pcb board installed. Per CGC, I've installed the new board made all connections and all is working. For the time being, I left the other board installed and hooked up - all still works. Per CGC, I can now just remove the Topper2 board altogether (don't know what happens when I unplug the connectors on it tho??)

But, if this Toper2 board is not required, and it will do what you need, more than welcome to have this one? I'll PM you if after taking this one out and hopefully have no issues. Let me know if this will work for ya.

IMG_1436 (resized).jpg
#7646 1 year ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

My "Topper kit" came with a Topper3 pcb board. My machine, when purchased, had a Topper2 pcb board installed. Per CGC, I've installed the new board made all connections and all is working. For the time being, I left the other board installed and hooked up - all still works. Per CGC, I can now just remove the Topper2 board altogether (don't know what happens when I unplug the connectors on it tho??)
But, if this Toper2 board is not required, and it will do what you need, more than welcome to have this one? I'll PM you if after taking this one out and hopefully have no issues. Let me know if this will work for ya.
[quoted image]

I did find a Topper board. The revision i have is 1.1. It is installed and running great. Love the color changing speakers. See post #7636 above. Thanks for the offer. I am sure there will be more that want to do this.

#7647 1 year ago

Thinking seriously about joining this club. There is a NiB SE with topper near my home. $10,200.

Any rumblings of another run of these next year? At this price...should I hold out for a Royal?

#7648 1 year ago

NIB #1 Pin of all time. Descent price plus you save a few hundred for not needing to ship it. Go for it.

#7649 1 year ago
Quoted from pinfarmer:

Has anyone in Canada got their kits yet?
I've had an order in with Player1 since March. I seen PPS make a recent post about some kits for sale at the start of October and still no word here about kits arriving.

We have them in stock https://nitropinball.com/collections/medieval-madness-accessories

#7650 1 year ago
Quoted from Scandell:

Thinking seriously about joining this club. There is a NiB SE with topper near my home. $10,200.
Any rumblings of another run of these next year? At this price...should I hold out for a Royal?

I would personally go for it and FAST! fyi, my MMRRE cost me almost $13k. If your holding out for a MMRRE, from a legit and trustworthy seller, plan around this price point. I have only found a couple less, but the deals felt iffy at best.

I doubt there will be another run for quite some time based on what many others have said, and the very slow nature to produce items from CGC....if you can get it, go for it now before its gone! There are also very, very few SEs floating around too.

Around $10k is stupid low imho on the sellers part, but if you can snag it cash on the glass locally go for it! it will hold value long term for sure, perhaps even appreciate.

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