Hi guys considering joining this club and had a few questions.

I’m looking at a classic edition, how does the build quality for it compare to the earlier MMr models and AFMr/MBr?

Can you upgrade the classic edition to the RGB lighting? Is this upgrade kit very hard to get still?

Lastly, watching videos it seems like the ball rattles around a bit more around the right side gate when leaving the Merlin saucer (vs an original) - am I wrong in that observation?

Thanks!

Played 2 originals recently and ball acts the same as my MMr leaving the saucer to gate.

Added a sub filter today and sounds better now, just need to fit a proper 6.5” bass speaker as the original is quiet at those low frequencies.
Seems that the cab speaker muddles the sound as it is clearer now. Just needed to balance it out on the menu to sound good. Nicer bass as well.
Cheap improvement.

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yeah, the Royal Edition is now Top 100 listed. Awsome rating!
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/medieval-madness-remake-royal

Good to know, any idea on my other questions? Much appreciated!

No, sorry can’t help with those. I have the LE earlier remake and build is pretty good and playfield is nice.

Love my mmr royale but it has had more issues than my MBr. Mostly cosmetic, But some play issues too. I would still rate the build quality of my MBr as superior.

Thanks, what kind of issues if you don't mind me asking?

Yes you can. Kits are being made now. Might be a wait but they'll be available.

LTG : )

Thanks do you know if there are any build differences between the CE and the older LE/Standard models? I've heard people say that AFMr and MBr have better build quality and I'm wondering if that translated to the newer runs of MMr.

None I know of.

LTG : )

Any ideas as to what to do with the old display? Does it have any value on ebay for instance? It put it in a box and in a closet.. seems like a waste.

Good question

Might be useful for a virtual pin?

FWIW, if you’re thinking you will ever want the upgrades, just drop an extra G and buy an SE now and you’ll save money. Remember the color display upgrade alone is $400, the XL display panel is $650 and the RGB is $250.

Plus while the new classics are pre wired for the RGB (as far as I know) changing all those bulbs will still require a good deal of work.

Just as spares I’d imagine. It would be nice I there was some way to reuse it or refit it onto another WPC95 pin, but that would probably take some serious doing.

What’s the best way to protect the Merlin saucer?

Can you share the specs of that filter? Or a link? Thanks!

Make a clock out of it.

Haven't the SE's been sold out for quite some time? They didn't even make very many of them.

I forgot to look at my game, I have a few Beagle board blacks laying around from projects but I wanted to leave one with the game for future issues. The BB is just a beagle board black, in MMR /LE correct?

CGC must have one person working on the upgrades.

CGC will make SEs as long as they’re making the game, it’s just one of their normal production games... it’s the Royals (and of course the original LE run) that were limited to however many they made.

I can’t speak to if they’re making them right now, but it seems like they would be, right?

afm is on the line, the 4th game I would assume and if demand is there I would suspect more standard mmr's I would hope. Demand seems to be there for it still.

Well, I was looking to buy an SE in December and was told that all the SEs were already sold, and that no more were planned. I looked around at other distros and nobody else had any either. I ended up buying an MBr-SE instead.

The last batch of MMr had the Royals, and a bunch of CE, but only a very few of the SE. No telling when the next batch of MMr will be made (or what the breakdown of versions will be). I'd still like to get an MMr-SE at some point, not that I have room for it now though.

If it wasn't for the big tax and exchange rate here I definitely would have done it instead of waiting for upgrade parts now.

Put a nice 6.5” sub in yesterday and just enough clearance for the trolls, with the sub filter sounds great. Just had to leave the grill off.
The arrow at the end has some nice sub bass that I never heard before. No need to rip out the baffle and fit an 8”, good enough. Shakes the cab.
Just need to get some nice 5 1/4” speakers for the back and it will be great.

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We have a few MMR Upgrade Kits - Topper, XL Display, and RGB Kits - coming in and have a few extra of each outside of our already committed ones to customers - USA sales only for now given the difficulties in International shipping. www.pinball.com / www.planetarypinball.com - they are en-route now and due in latest Monday and will ship as soon as they are here.

Thx
Planetary Pinball

Question to the MMR owners.
I notice that balls coming over the ramp do not always trigger the "FIRE" (inline) contacts in the end.
That's because normally at the end where the hole is (photo) the ball slows down for a millisecond. Then everything is normal with the "FIRE" contacts.
However, quite often (about 20-25%) the ball rushes through the hole quickly and without slowing down and there is no contact triggering.
Is that normal or can you do something with the ramps (I did not want to bend anything at this time)? I moved sideways the ramp to different places, but it didn't work.
I have to say that I used a Playfield Protector.

Thanks

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Ramp2 (resized).jpg

My right wire ball cage delivers the ball perfectly to the lane and registers 100% of the time.

My Left Wire ramp exits the ball at a little angle and maybe 5-10% of the time also misses a registration from the lane switch. I would not advise trying to bend the wire ramp. I would be afraid of the tack welds breaking if you exert too much force.

I just deal with it. I adjusted the wire ramp best I could to get best ball exit.

Upgrades installed.

LTG : )

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Hi guys.

I just landed a 2018 MM Classic ... occasionally at multiball start, it won’t throw out any more balls. One ball multiball is no fun!

All the trough etc checks out visually - anyone else had this issue?

TIA

rd

HAWT

Is your game one of the first MMr games made ? I have one of the very first run of games and wanted to know if you had any problem with the older boards with the upgrade.

One of the very first. No problems.

LTG : )

You mean magnetized balls not rolling down the ball trough. A few people I would imagine.

New balls or this - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809

LTG : )

i have also a LE and still have issues with the rgb upgrade
when all rgb strings are connected the display wills sometimes bei single color and low re-res

anyone have the same problem?

Thanks Lloyd. I’ve had magnetised balls before, but generally not brand new ones in a game with no magnets!

But here we had that. One ball was very very lightly magnetised. That combined with some grooves in the trough, and thats the problem.

Removed the trough, removed the grooves, and replaced the balls. Winner.

PS great how everything is this game is modular ... 3 plugs and the whole assembly came out. Much easier to work on. Nice.

rd

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I remember you used to be able to buy a plastic overlay for the ball trough Of the original MM’s that fixed that exact problem....nice to know CGC were faithful even in re-creating the faults.

Edit: Here we go.....
https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/ball-trough-magnetic-jam-protector/

You don't need magnets to magnetize steel.

Before electricity or anything. You bang two chunks of steel together - they magnetize. Balls do the same thing in the game, hitting steel and each other. some brands more so than others.

LTG : )

I think the same thing happened to my own balls ...

rd

Oh. I'm sure of it. Yours clank.

LTG : )

Oh, you’ve heard them too?

I thought people were pulling my ... leg ...

rd

Yes. And over half a planet away.

When you last visited the USA. I thought Big Ben had invaded the country.

LTG : )

I hear you.

Although I was sorta proud when they based this comic book character on me.

rd

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RD.. Is MM going to be in the SHPC?

Yes.

Just updated the banks.

rd

Try white ones and Rit dye.

LTG : )