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(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed


By SuperPinball

5 years ago



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  • 7,612 posts
  • 594 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Cayenne
  • Topic is favorited by 308 Pinsiders

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#7351 31 days ago

Well not off to a good start with my upgrades.

Figured I’d start with my RGB GI Kit first. Went to install the RGB\Glass holder and mine had 5 screws, not 4, ok no big deal. Removed those and the plastic wouldn’t budge. Turns out mine was also stapled in and getting to them was a real pain, tried using a flat head screwdriver to pry them out from the top, and started to mar up the wood trim, so stopped and fixed it and finally had to rip out the plastic channel and pull out each staple. I know staples aren’t hard to remove but for some reason these just broke in half and one end would be so small that I just couldn’t get a grip and eventually had to hammer it in.

After that, started with the Left 1, no problem and figured I’d go ahead and do Left 2 and for some reason this string had two open connectors on the end, so wasnt sure about this, but eventually figured out that I had a missing LED\Mount, #5.

Suffice to say, not a good start and I know things can happen but after waiting and the cost, just frustrating and hoping this is not a sign of things to come.

Really wish they would have included a few spare LED\Mounts, now gotta probably wait at least a week or two to get one LED.

Does anyone know if these LED\Mounts are sold anywhere as I’d like to get a few spares.

Well not trying to complain but just sharing experience so far.

Take care and stay safe everyone.

#7352 31 days ago
Quoted from ED-209:

Does anyone know if these LED\Mounts are sold anywhere as I’d like to get a few spares.

Please check with Sara at Planetary Pinball Supply.

LTG : )

#7353 31 days ago
Quoted from Second2Noone:

Hello. Can someone, an existing MMR "Royal" owner, post a pic of the label that I think is on the inside the coin door? I’m considering getting a bill validator for my own MMR (Royal) that is forthcoming and I just wanted to see or read what Chicago Gaming actually says about using a bill validator on their “remake” machines if in fact that is what the inside label alludes to? From reading previous posts (here), I understand that there might be some slight wiring installation differences between their “Royal” remakes and the original MM machines? Thanks for your help.

Is this what you are looking for...

MMR Coin Door (resized).jpg
#7354 31 days ago
Quoted from Highscoresaves:

Cannot read it, I have a bill acceptor covering it...
[quoted image]

Thanks so much for trying though. I appreciate it, Sir.

#7355 31 days ago
Quoted from Viperbsd:

Is this what you are looking for...[quoted image]

Yes, that's it! Exactly!! Cool, . . . . thanks so much!!

#7356 31 days ago

For those who have done the RGB GI upgrade:

Was it worth the $250?
Do you feel it improves the game experience?

I ask because I am on the fence.
I pinged Planetary in October 2019 and requested to be added to the interest list. I haven't heard a peep since then.

#7357 31 days ago

Ok, RGB upgrade installed. I also didn’t get any wire nuts nor any cable clamps that the manual states to use.

Anyway, for those that have done this upgrade, when you go to the service menu to test the RGB, do your options work as labeled?

What I mean is when I adjust the color (interactive, red, blue, white, etc. ), it works for the options listed (Overhead, GI) but when I go to adjust the brightness, it seems like it’s somewhat backwards and not correct.

When I adjust the Overhead Brightness, it adjusts the GI near the ramps but it does light the overhead but doesn’t adjust its brightness.

When I adjust the GI Brightness, it adjusts the Overhead Brightness but does light up the GI but doesn’t adjust its brightness.

When I adjust the Speaker Brightness, it adjusts the GI near the flippers and slingshots.

I used the memory card that came with it and it’s version 3.0, no Beta?

So not sure if it’s just mine or perhaps since I haven’t installed the Speaker XL kit or the Topper, if that’s why it’s doing this or if this is a bug?

Agrees with another Pinsider, if you choose warm white for the GI, it isn’t as bright as it originally was, hoping they add a higher brightness in the future.

Thanks for any help and input.

#7358 31 days ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

I also upgraded the speakers to Kickers, co-axil. Best $70 spent yet. May help you out too, the Pyle speakers are lesser quality imo. Callouts are much clearer now, easy upgrade.

Ah great, i was going to look into this. I had upgraded mine with some serious speakers prior to the XL display, i noticed a significant drop in sound quality after the XL display so was planning on replacing them as well.

I didn't bother with the sub either, as i already have a 8" sub in a sealed box with a dedicated amp that i did years ago. Plus i run an external sub as well

#7359 31 days ago
Quoted from highdef:

For those who have done the RGB GI upgrade:
Was it worth the $250?
Do you feel it improves the game experience?
I ask because I am on the fence.
I pinged Planetary in October 2019 and requested to be added to the interest list. I haven't heard a peep since then.

The RGB might actually make the game worse.... as sometimes I feel like it can make the ball harder to see... but I think it looks pretty cool and that’s a huge part of the experience. To me, if you’re going to do just one upgrade, do the screen... but if you’re gonna do the topper you may as well go the whole way and do the lighting too.

#7360 30 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

The RGB might actually make the game worse.... as sometimes I feel like it can make the ball harder to see... but I think it looks pretty cool and that’s a huge part of the experience. To me, if you’re going to do just one upgrade, do the screen... but if you’re gonna do the topper you may as well go the whole way and do the lighting too.

Thanks for the honest feedback!

#7361 30 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

The RGB might actually make the game worse.... as sometimes I feel like it can make the ball harder to see... but I think it looks pretty cool and that’s a huge part of the experience. To me, if you’re going to do just one upgrade, do the screen... but if you’re gonna do the topper you may as well go the whole way and do the lighting too.

So does the topper interact with game differently if you don't install the RGB lighting kit?

#7362 30 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

So does the topper interact with game differently if you don't install the RGB lighting kit?

I imagine it would work exactly the same. But it is really slick the way the PF, topper and speaker lights all synchronize!

#7363 30 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

I imagine it would work exactly the same. But it is really slick the way the PF, topper and speaker lights all synchronize!

Gotha...thanks....I'm struggling with upgrading the display (I know how nice it looks as I've owned the other LE's) simply due to the fact the original one is perfectly fine, and essentially has no value.

#7364 30 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

So does the topper interact with game differently if you don't install the RGB lighting kit?

No, same no matter what. Plugs into the same control board. I ran my topper for a day or so before i had the RGB lighting in.

#7365 30 days ago
Quoted from ED-209:

When I adjust the Speaker Brightness, it adjusts the GI near the flippers and slingshots.

this test part is also not working correctly in my RE, the rest is okay. but could be special with your upgrade

#7366 30 days ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

this test part is also not working correctly in my RE, the rest is okay. but could be special with your upgrade

Hmm, I’m thinking maybe he got some connectors crossed?

#7367 30 days ago
Quoted from wolftownjeff:

I started to go with the Kickers, then read up and decided to go with the Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX 3-1/2".
Crutchfield folks and some other all agreed to go with these because they were a true 3 ohm speaker.
I got them online/amazon for the same price as the Kickers at Crutchfield.
amazon.com link »
They show up Wednesday.

please let us know how they sound; the RMS is lower than the built in Pyle, no problems with nearly high volume?

#7368 30 days ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

this test part is also not working correctly in my RE, the rest is okay. but could be special with your upgrade

Thanks for confirming, again some of them work correctly, it’s just the brightness setting, all others align with what they list.

Quoted from gunstarhero:

Hmm, I’m thinking maybe he got some connectors crossed?

Not really sure how I could have crossed anything as the RGB strip has its own plug and it’s in the correct spot and each string is connected to the main RGB harness, unless the instructions weren’t correct in terms of where to plug in each connector to the topper board.

#7369 30 days ago
Quoted from ED-209:

Not really sure how I could have crossed anything as the RGB strip has its own plug and it’s in the correct spot and each string is connected to the main RGB harness, unless the instructions weren’t correct in terms of where to plug in each connector to the topper board.

Me either... but where there’s a will there’s a way!

11
#7370 30 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Me either... but where there’s a will there’s a way!

Well, Cayenne said their tests weren’t working right either so I’m guessing it’s a bug in regards to how they setup the test menu because if I did connect something wrong, when I change the lighting color\type (Interactive, White, Red, Blue, etc. ) it should then change the wrong strings or zone and that test works right.

Everything works as it should from what I can tell otherwise as I finished the remaining upgrades, summary of remaining experience is below:

Just a warning, this is the way I did it, I am not recommending my way, just sharing my experience for others and in case someone runs into the same situations that I did.

Regarding the finishing of my RGB GI Upgrade, I did install the Topper board a little higher as others recommended and took the Topper over just to double check as while these instructions are pretty good, they do need to be tweaked somewhat. I also did the Topper PCB last vs. first as I wanted to get the GI strings done and read the instructions several times to make sure this wouldn’t be a problem. The last mod I had to do was regarding my Mod Couple Barrel Light mod. It was previously soldered directly to existing GI lights but now with the RGB, there are no leads to solder to. So after thinking last night and this morning, I thought about how the Pop Bumpers (which BTW were a royal pain as the wires are so short, I don’t see how you can use a wire nut for the three and I cut them right at the lead and I ended up using Quick Disconnects and putting two together and then the other two to allow me just enough slack), anyway I am getting off track but the Pop Bumpers are connected to the plugs that are no longer being used for the original GI lighting strips, so I figured I could just do that with these Barrel Mods. I ended up cutting one of the older GI strings so I could use that connector as I didn’t have one, nor any pins to crimp the wires and then just used one of the other 5 open GI connectors and Voila. I just assume that if CGC uses this setup for the Pops, then I should be ok for two LED’s.

So after the RGB GI Upgrade, I moved onto the Speaker XL Display upgrade. I was going to do the Topper next but removing the sub woofer petrified me as my experience so far hasn’t been ideal. Anyway I did this part first as I figured I could then put the playfield down. I had a handheld pry tool that had a sharp end that allowed me to gently hammer it underneath the sub woofer. The shaker motor does get in the way but I was able to work around it vs. removing it. Finally I caught a break and the woofer platform did slowly come up with minimal glue remaking but of course one staple remained. I removed it but as careful as I was trying to be, you have to use force as I didn’t want to pry it out against the bottom of the cabinet and mar it up and you guessed it, I scratched some of the side, not bad and after a Sharpie touch up, it was good enough especially since it was below the playfield. Next I took one of my sharp paint scrapers and removed the remaining glue and then sanded the area smooth (80 grit then 320, just what I had near me). Then after drilling the pilot holes for the new mount, I tried using the #8 sheet metal screw they provide and there just wasn’t enough bite (others also commented on this). Don’t get me wrong, it does go into the cabinet but barely and not enough, at least for me, to tighten. So my though was to just get a 1 inch length sheet metal screw instead of the 3/4 inch but then I was thinking it might eventually wear out. I didn’t have any T-Nuts or those flat end screws that other pinballs use for their woofers, so I just used a bolt and nut and drilled all the way to through the cabinet and installed the bolt underneath so it would stick out a little on the inside of the cabinet and then just installed a washer and nut and it ain’t going nowhere now. It looks good enough for me under the cabinet as all you see are the tops of 4 bolts but they are Phillips head and also a washer. So the next part was the display and that was simple enough, though the instructions didn’t mention about whether to remove your grounding wire that goes to the cabinet so just removed it from my display and left it there (we’ll come back to this later). Now this is where I opted to remove the RGB pins from the connector that CGC provided and installed them in the RGB strip connector (another Pinsider provided his instructions). I was a little worried at this since no one from CGC would confirm and I get why, but thankfully another Pinsider provided me pics from his Special Edition that was already pre-wired to use RGB on the speakers and the connector was exactly the same. All I did was unplug the connector that is setup to only output Blue and instead of using that split connector for power, I just detached my existing Yellow\Black power cable from the cable clamps and that provided me enough slack to directly connect the one 2 pin power connector directly to the display. I ran the RGB cables up the existing cable clamps and inserted the pins accordingly. I just used a metal dental pic to carefully remove the pins. And that was it for the XL Display, everything worked and colors changed and was in sync with my RGB GI. Again this is what I did and I am not recommending this but others have asked about it so figured I would share.

Lastly, was the Topper. I was hoping this wouldn’t be that bad once I did the drilling of the 4 smaller holes and the large one but had a few snags. The drilling wasn’t bad, and for the larger hole I just went really slow as the instructions recommend and it took a while. I did put some tape as it was recommended in the instructions so I had just a little blow out but it was Sharpie again to the rescue. I did have one issue when drilling one of the smaller holes. It was the hole near the knocker, I was catching the end of the knocker plate so I had to move the plate over a little but had to be careful not too far, otherwise it would come close to hitting one of the bolts used to mount the knocker plate. Then I installed the T-Nuts, no issue once I moved the knocker plate (back left if looking from the front). The front right was a little tight but it worked fine. Next was to actually mount the Topper and this went fine with no issues. Lastly was the ground cable. First, since I had two Topper boards (one for the Topper Kit and one for the RGB GI Kit), I went to test fit the ground wire as I was not able to get it on the one I installed on my machine and was cautious as the pressure was getting too much on that board and didn’t want to bend it. The spade connector for the ground wire they provide would NOT fit, it wasn’t possible as the ground lead on the PCB board was wider than the spade connector, so I just cut it off and put one of my Quick Disconnect spade connector and that fit. Next the instructions state to route this though the cabinet, up the playfield and to the ground lead on the playfield PCB board. The cord probably would have reached but I was wondering why do this if all it needs is a ground lead and there is actually a free one on my original backbox PCB (not the Topper board), but remember that ground wire that was originally connected to my speaker display that was tied directly into the ground braid? I figured I would do a continuity test just to see if the ground lead on the backbox original PCB made connection to that and sure enough it did, so that’s what I did vs. having another wire connected to the playfield. Now I’m not sure if there is a specific reason for connecting this ground lead from the Topper PCB to the specific ground lead on the playfield PCB and I am by far no expert electrician but to me ground is ground and this is just what I did, again not recommending this and if someone knows why it has to be to the playfield PCB ground lead, I’d love to know.

Anyway, apologies for the novel but just figured I would share my experience. The scary part was while I did test the machine after each upgrade kit was installed, I didn’t play a game so I was dreading that something might have been disconnected, or a wire broken, etc. but the pinball gods were kind to me in the end as I played my first game about 2 hours ago and it was AMAZING, the interactivity with the lighting and OMG the sound, I had it turned to just 10 and it was so loud and all the call outs were loud and clear so not sure if maybe it’s just the honeymoon phase as I was thinking of getting Kickers since I’ve seen a lot of people going that route with the XL display but so far I am happy as I actually had kickers in my old speaker panel and while they were better than stock, they do not compare to the my current setup now.

Hope this helps and didn’t put everyone to sleep.

Take care and stay safe.

#7371 30 days ago
Quoted from ED-209:

Well, Cayenne said their tests weren’t working right either so I’m guessing it’s a bug in regards to how they setup the test menu because if I did connect something wrong, when I change the lighting color\type (Interactive, White, Red, Blue, etc. ) it should then change the wrong strings or zone and that test works right.
Everything works as it should from what I can tell otherwise as I finished the remaining upgrades, summary of remaining experience is below:
Just a warning, this is the way I did it, I am not recommending my way, just sharing my experience for others and in case someone runs into the same situations that I did.
Regarding the finishing of my RGB GI Upgrade, I did install the Topper board a little higher as others recommended and took the Topper over just to double check as while these instructions are pretty good, they do need to be tweaked somewhat. I also did the Topper PCB last vs. first as I wanted to get the GI strings done and read the instructions several times to make sure this wouldn’t be a problem. The last mod I had to do was regarding my Mod Couple Barrel Light mod. It was previously soldered directly to existing GI lights but now with the RGB, there are no leads to solder to. So after thinking last night and this morning, I thought about how the Pop Bumpers (which BTW were a royal pain as the wires are so short, I don’t see how you can use a wire nut for the three and I cut them right at the lead and I ended up using Quick Disconnects and putting two together and then the other two to allow me just enough slack), anyway I am getting off track but the Pop Bumpers are connected to the plugs that are no longer being used for the original GI lighting strips, so I figured I could just do that with these Barrel Mods. I ended up cutting one of the older GI strings so I could use that connector as I didn’t have one, nor any pins to crimp the wires and then just used one of the other 5 open GI connectors and Voila. I just assume that if CGC uses this setup for the Pops, then I should be ok for two LED’s.
So after the RGB GI Upgrade, I moved onto the Speaker XL Display upgrade. I was going to do the Topper next but removing the sub woofer petrified me as my experience so far hasn’t been ideal. Anyway I did this part first as I figured I could then put the playfield down. I had a handheld pry tool that had a sharp end that allowed me to gently hammer it underneath the sub woofer. The shaker motor does get in the way but I was able to work around it vs. removing it. Finally I caught a break and the woofer platform did slowly come up with minimal glue remaking but of course one staple remained. I removed it but as careful as I was trying to be, you have to use force as I didn’t want to pry it out against the bottom of the cabinet and mar it up and you guessed it, I scratched some of the side, not bad and after a Sharpie touch up, it was good enough especially since it was below the playfield. Next I took one of my sharp paint scrapers and removed the remaining glue and then sanded the area smooth (80 grit then 320, just what I had near me). Then after drilling the pilot holes for the new mount, I tried using the #8 sheet metal screw they provide and there just wasn’t enough bite (others also commented on this). Don’t get me wrong, it does go into the cabinet but barely and not enough, at least for me, to tighten. So my though was to just get a 1 inch length sheet metal screw instead of the 3/4 inch but then I was thinking it might eventually wear out. I didn’t have any T-Nuts or those flat end screws that other pinballs use for their woofers, so I just used a bolt and nut and drilled all the way to through the cabinet and installed the bolt underneath so it would stick out a little on the inside of the cabinet and then just installed a washer and nut and it ain’t going nowhere now. It looks good enough for me under the cabinet as all you see are the tops of 4 bolts but they are Phillips head and also a washer. So the next part was the display and that was simple enough, though the instructions didn’t mention about whether to remove your grounding wire that goes to the cabinet so just removed it from my display and left it there (we’ll come back to this later). Now this is where I opted to remove the RGB pins from the connector that CGC provided and installed them in the RGB strip connector (another Pinsider provided his instructions). I was a little worried at this since no one from CGC would confirm and I get why, but thankfully another Pinsider provided me pics from his Special Edition that was already pre-wired to use RGB on the speakers and the connector was exactly the same. All I did was unplug the connector that is setup to only output Blue and instead of using that split connector for power, I just detached my existing Yellow\Black power cable from the cable clamps and that provided me enough slack to directly connect the one 2 pin power connector directly to the display. I ran the RGB cables up the existing cable clamps and inserted the pins accordingly. I just used a metal dental pic to carefully remove the pins. And that was it for the XL Display, everything worked and colors changed and was in sync with my RGB GI. Again this is what I did and I am not recommending this but others have asked about it so figured I would share.
Lastly, was the Topper. I was hoping this wouldn’t be that bad once I did the drilling of the 4 smaller holes and the large one but had a few snags. The drilling wasn’t bad, and for the larger hole I just went really slow as the instructions recommend and it took a while. I did put some tape as it was recommended in the instructions so I had just a little blow out but it was Sharpie again to the rescue. I did have one issue when drilling one of the smaller holes. It was the hole near the knocker, I was catching the end of the knocker plate so I had to move the plate over a little but had to be careful not too far, otherwise it would come close to hitting one of the bolts used to mount the knocker plate. Then I installed the T-Nuts, no issue once I moved the knocker plate (back left if looking from the front). The front right was a little tight but it worked fine. Next was to actually mount the Topper and this went fine with no issues. Lastly was the ground cable. First, since I had two Topper boards (one for the Topper Kit and one for the RGB GI Kit), I went to test fit the ground wire as I was not able to get it on the one I installed on my machine and was cautious as the pressure was getting too much on that board and didn’t want to bend it. The spade connector for the ground wire they provide would NOT fit, it wasn’t possible as the ground lead on the PCB board was wider than the spade connector, so I just cut it off and put one of my Quick Disconnect spade connector and that fit. Next the instructions state to route this though the cabinet, up the playfield and to the ground lead on the playfield PCB board. The cord probably would have reached but I was wondering why do this if all it needs is a ground lead and there is actually a free one on my original backbox PCB (not the Topper board), but remember that ground wire that was originally connected to my speaker display that was tied directly into the ground braid? I figured I would do a continuity test just to see if the ground lead on the backbox original PCB made connection to that and sure enough it did, so that’s what I did vs. having another wire connected to the playfield. Now I’m not sure if there is a specific reason for connecting this ground lead from the Topper PCB to the specific ground lead on the playfield PCB and I am by far no expert electrician but to me ground is ground and this is just what I did, again not recommending this and if someone knows why it has to be to the playfield PCB ground lead, I’d love to know.
Anyway, apologies for the novel but just figured I would share my experience. The scary part was while I did test the machine after each upgrade kit was installed, I didn’t play a game so I was dreading that something might have been disconnected, or a wire broken, etc. but the pinball gods were kind to me in the end as I played my first game about 2 hours ago and it was AMAZING, the interactivity with the lighting and OMG the sound, I had it turned to just 10 and it was so loud and all the call outs were loud and clear so not sure if maybe it’s just the honeymoon phase as I was thinking of getting Kickers since I’ve seen a lot of people going that route with the XL display but so far I am happy as I actually had kickers in my old speaker panel and while they were better than stock, they do not compare to the my current setup now.
Hope this helps and didn’t put everyone to sleep.
Take care and stay safe.

Best write up I've read yet.... congrats!

#7372 30 days ago
Quoted from highdef:

For those who have done the RGB GI upgrade:
Was it worth the $250?
Do you feel it improves the game experience?
I ask because I am on the fence.
I pinged Planetary in October 2019 and requested to be added to the interest list. I haven't heard a peep since then.

Personally I really like it and feel it is worth it, but I can understand that it isn't for everyone. I think it makes the game moodier, and is a cool effect. I don't have trouble seeing the ball, but I have good eyesight, hehe.

#7373 30 days ago

Been 7 months and still waiting for my upgrades

#7374 30 days ago

Great write up man, very similar to my experience, especially that cab speaker block.

#7375 30 days ago

Will cgc release another remake this year? Slow pokes.

#7376 30 days ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Will cgc release another remake this year? Slow pokes.

They announced a small run of AFM (500 I think) so the likelihood of them running anything else this year is pretty small IMHO. They may announce the next title but don't expect it to ship before the end of 2020. More likely spring 2021...

Rewind to last summer when they announced a small run of MMr (500). Took a year. COVID slowed things down but CGC is known for their inability to stick to a production schedule. They do make nice games though!

#7377 30 days ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Will cgc release another remake this year? Slow pokes.

All the rumors seem to indicate they’re moving away from the “all remakes” model after getting the big 3 out.

Besides the persistent Cactus Canyon rumors all I’ve heard is they are working on something original...

#7378 29 days ago
Quoted from brucipher:

Personally I really like it and feel it is worth it, but I can understand that it isn't for everyone. I think it makes the game moodier, and is a cool effect. I don't have trouble seeing the ball, but I have good eyesight, hehe.

Thanks for the honest feedback. Much appreciated.

Have you (or anyone else) tried switching back to the classic lighting style with the new GI upgrade? I asked whether this was an option last year (since it's available in MBR), but I don't think it was ever officially confirmed for MMR.
I am curious to know if it's an option and whether the game loses the old-school warm incandescent look.

#7379 29 days ago
Quoted from highdef:

Thanks for the honest feedback. Much appreciated.
Have you (or anyone else) tried switching back to the classic lighting style with the new GI upgrade? I asked whether this was an option last year (since it's available in MBR), but I don't think it was ever officially confirmed for MMR.
I am curious to know if it's an option and whether the game loses the old-school warm incandescent look.

There is a setting for the GI for it to be interactive (color changing) or fixed color. You can pick warm white. The color itself is good but it is a little bit dimmer than with non-rgb LEDs.

#7380 29 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

There is a setting for the GI for it to be interactive (color changing) or fixed color. You can pick warm white. The color itself is good but it is a little bit dimmer than with non-rgb LEDs.

Good to know.
I figured it wouldn't be the same.
Many thanks for confirming!

#7381 28 days ago
Quoted from highdef:

For those who have done the RGB GI upgrade:
Was it worth the $250?
Do you feel it improves the game experience?
I ask because I am on the fence.
I pinged Planetary in October 2019 and requested to be added to the interest list. I haven't heard a peep since then.

Its a tedious job to replace the gi light but SOOOO worth it IF you like the look.

#7382 28 days ago

I just got notice that my topper is shipping soon....I passed on the RGB, and xl display....I can't get over just throwing the current display in the trash. I was more worried about them running out of stock on the topper, and not the display.

#7383 28 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I just got notice that my topper is shipping soon....I passed on the RGB, and xl display....I can't get over just throwing the current display in the trash. I was more worried about them running out of stock on the topper, and not the display.

Yeah you have to believe the display and lighting will stay around for people who buy more basic editions later.

#7384 27 days ago

Hi All,

Encountered my first glitch with my MMr. It appears that the left ramp exit switch is not functioning. I am going through the switch test and it is not registering so I am assuming it is the switch itself. Before replacing, is there anything else this could? wiring, etc?

Thanks in advance.

#7385 27 days ago

Think I'm going with just the display for now. Topper is cool but a lot of money. Might do RGB down the road. Thanks to everyone for sharing your experiences and thoughts on these upgrades.

#7386 27 days ago
Quoted from Ripshill:

Before replacing, is there anything else this could?

Simple adjusting ? Stuck closed ? Not closing enough ?

Tests - Switch Edge - check it by hand and then a ball.

Is it unplugged ?

LTG : )

#7387 27 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Simple adjusting ? Stuck closed ? Not closing enough ?
Tests - Switch Edge - check it by hand and then a ball.
Is it unplugged ?
LTG : )

Hi,

Checked by hand. Not stuck closed and definitely closing enough. Checked with both hand and ball. Traced the wire back and it is still plugged in. Am I right to assume it is a fault switch then?

Thanks,

#7388 27 days ago
Quoted from Ripshill:

Am I right to assume it is a fault switch then?

I'd put a meter on it and see if the meter responds or not.

LTG : )

#7389 27 days ago

Hello,

a question to the US owners of MMRs.
Is it correct that the CGC US pins dont have a CE mark on your machine?
The label is located on the back of the cabinet under the backbox.
This is how it looks like on mine.
CE sign (resized).jpg
Thanks

#7390 27 days ago

I never have noticed one on my LE... but I never have really looked for one either.

#7391 27 days ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

Hello,
a question to the US owners of MMRs.
Is it correct that the CGC US pins dont have a CE mark on your machine?
The label is located on the back of the cabinet under the backbox.
This is how it looks like on mine.
[quoted image]
Thanks

Here’s my standard, no CE from what I can tell.

110C7ECD-43C2-476D-BAF2-B11E93B522B6 (resized).jpeg
#7392 26 days ago

Thank you for all the comments to my previous problems. I was able to fix my stuttering sound due bad alligator clips from my external sub. With pinball it seems you fix something and something else stops working . This next one is my fault though. I unplugged an led mod while the machine was on that hooked into the lower GI playfield lights. I tried to plug in the GI cables back how it came without the mod and noticed that they are not lighting up. I think I’m plugging them right? Any thoughts why the lower GI lights don’t work and how I can fix it? I checked the fuses on the back box and they seem to be okay.

0B718705-CD38-4A03-8DAA-C70819929227 (resized).jpegA3004FCD-BCE6-4673-81E7-E6751D6A5FDC (resized).jpeg
#7393 26 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

Thank you for all the comments to my previous problems. I was able to fix my stuttering sound due bad alligator clips from my external sub. With pinball it seems you fix something and something else stops working . This next one is my fault though. I unplugged an led mod while the machine was on that hooked into the lower GI playfield lights. I tried to plug in the GI cables back how it came without the mod and noticed that they are not lighting up. I think I’m plugging them right? Any thoughts why the lower GI lights don’t work and how I can fix it? I checked the fuses on the back box and they seem to be okay.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like the connectors aren’t fully engaged.

#7394 25 days ago

Thanks Cayenne for helping me get this pinbits discontinued merlin scoop protector, AWESOME!!!

20200926_184921 (resized).jpg
#7395 25 days ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

Thanks Cayenne for helping me get this pinbits discontinued merlin scoop protector, AWESOME!!!
[quoted image]

Color me jealous.

#7396 25 days ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

Thanks Cayenne for helping me get this pinbits discontinued merlin scoop protector, AWESOME!!!
[quoted image]

It’s the same one Cliffy sells... I know he has a backlog but pretty sure he is still cranking them out!

#7397 25 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

It’s the same one Cliffy sells... I know he has a backlog but pretty sure he is still cranking them out!

Cliff went to a carbon fiber sticker. I prefer metal to match the rest of his kit. The CF didn't work for me, but the rest of Cliffs metal set was good.

#7398 25 days ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

please let us know how they sound; the RMS is lower than the built in Pyle, no problems with nearly high volume?

Big difference, sound was much clearer.
I am pleased with the money spent and it is worth the time to swap to swap them out.
I was pleased enough to swap them out on my AFMrLE and MBrLE.
The factory Pyle speakers are $19 on Amazon for a pair so that tells you something right there.

#7399 25 days ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

Cliff went to a carbon fiber sticker. I prefer metal to match the rest of his kit. The CF didn't work for me, but the rest of Cliffs metal set was good.

Its an option...u can get that same protector in stainless if u want it. I actually have both, but preferred the look of the carbon fiber. It works great

#7400 24 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I actually have both, but preferred the look of the carbon fiber. It works great

I have the carbon fiber installed too. Not one issue with ball ejects. I also like the look although you don't even see much of it at all.
IMG_2772 (resized).JPG

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