Installed software update 3.0 in preparation for when my kit finally arrives. What have they done to the shaker code? It goes nuts! Way harder than it was in the previous software. Definitely need to tone it down. Hopefully I can just use the settings in the menu rather than moving the weights. I didn’t have enough time to play around with it before nightshift.
At least it kept my high scores.

I have it on "light" and it's still way more than previous. Seems to activate on more things as well. So not necessarily all bad, shaker interaction is great. Just not too strong... but that's a very personal thing in terms of how much shaker is ok.

I think it's a change from how the game originally felt, to the new version being their own thing (with XL display, RGB lights, topper, etc)

That's how i look at it at least.

Haven't posted in a while...in fact, haven't even turned my machine on in a while! I did today, it has roughly only 350 plays on it.
During my first game, my ball went into the moat trough and the VUK wouldn't kick it up. When the machine attempted to look for the ball, that coil wouldn't fire when all others would? Cannot figure out why? Everything is pristine and rarely even used. Any ideas as what I might be looking at; and perhaps some steps to solve it? All connectors are seated properly (pretty sure they are on the blue board above the moat).

Thanks
Kyle

Yes, there is definitely a change in the code for the shaker. Much stronger and activates with more actions.

I ended up shifting the weights because it was so strong even on the lightest setting.

Got my custom logo installed last night...much better than the CGC logo

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Hi Kyle

I had a similar thing in my new MMR but related to the Merlin kicker. Ball would go in but not kick out. Turned out a wire on that solenoid had broken away from its solder connection. Re-soldered it back in place and all good. Lift the play field and have a close look at the wire connections to the solenoids. Good luck.

Cheers
Craig

All wires are perfect from what I can tell. No broken wires or cracked solder. So strange.

Throw it into test mode and grab a ball and verify that it's seeing everything.

Everything is fine except for the moat VUK. All switches, lights, other coils....

I think I found the problem...it was a total NOOB problem. I had a blown F1 Fuse (4A) on the blue circuit board. I haven't replaced it yet as I don't have any, but I guarantee that is the problem.
Thanks for the suggestions though!!

Kyle

Nope.

So I replace the F1 Fuse on the solenoid driver board (4A 250V Slow Blow). Turn the game back on and I immediately blow the new fuse (tried twice). Any more suggestions?

Auto launch coil lugs shorting to lockdown bar receiver or something when the playfield is down ?

You can swap the three identical driver boards to check if bad board or problem out on the playfield.

LTG : )

I don't think so as I blew the third fuse when the play field was in the upright position.

Do you have a picture of this as I don't remember having a problem there? I would just want to check if I had missed something when installing.

There should have been a small gauge black wire in one of the bags, this connects on the RBG board (backbox) to a grounding spade on the light board under the playfield.

Hi All. I’m trying to add LEDs to the inside of the exploding castle towers then cut the windows out of each tower. I removed the exploding castle towers with base (easy/four screws). Has anyone done this mod and if so, how do you remove the towers from the metal base? It looks like the towers might be glued onto the base. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thx. 2nd photo below is the base being sold on another site.

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The ones that wiggle. Remove the clip from the axle they pivot on, on one end and slide the axle out. Off it comes.

LTG : )

Thank you! I just followed the instructions and it was a piece of cake. I wonder why CGC didn't advertise this if you bought the display upgrade and RGB upgrade?

I’ve heard rumours from a reliable source that MMr Royal was a one time run and that they won’t be doing more.
Can a reliable source like LTG confirm this?
Btw thanks for all your help friend my MMr Royal plays like a dream now.

I don't think more Royals were ever planned.

Only CGC can confirm anything.

LTG : )

Two distributors I talked to said that they asked CGC and there is no current plans to make anymore. Meaning that they "could" so never say never. But it's unlikely unless there's big enough demand for it. The high price HUO ones for sale don't seem to be selling in the marketplace.

My distro said a lot of people calling him asking to buy one anyway they can....
Willing to pay market.
So happy I snagged one, almost didn’t happen but someone back out last minute and I pounced.

Just move on and make Cactus Canyon.....

Huh? Willing to pay market? I thought the Royals are selling at 10k?

My guess is it will be a few years, but they'll come back...especially if sales of their new remakes are lower than expected.

I don't think there will be more Royale-releases from CGC, but we might see a King of Payne -ultimate uncut limited edition sometime in the future

After several years, I finally destroyed King of
Pain’s castle and only needed to shoot the castle one more time to Battle for the Kingdom. Of course, trolls were running and I lost my last ball. Ugh! On the bright side, the game included two chances at Royal Madness, one of which I completed for the first time ever. I attribute last night’s relative success to a bit of luck, a bit of skill, and decreasing the flipper strength last week.

Why wait years, lol...go 10 ball like I do with my kids and increase your odds.

SWEET you did that though!!! Very hard game IMO.

Thats awesome...I didn't realize you could go that high

Gotta save those troll bombs for BFTK

Following up on my upgrade installation experience. Last weekend I did the topper upgrade and screen upgrade. Last night I tackled the RGB upgrade (I actually installed the new back LED strip the night before, which was incredibly easy). The manual is very helpful. I would especially recommend referring heavily to the back page of the manual to unsure you are putting the new LEDs in the correct order for each string of lights (back page shows the placement of the connector and the order the lights should be installed). That was super helpful and made the string install a breeze (I've done numerous incandescent to LED conversions, so I've had plenty of experience with GI replacement). My biggest annoyance with the entire process for all three upgrades was the pop-bumper lighting. After you cut the wires and needed to splice it together with the harness, the existing wires were so short and barely reached each other. Getting all 4 wires into the wire connector was a real pain. I needed to add a length of wire to one of the grey wires. I was swearing a lot, hehe. In the end, it wasn't horrible, but the pop bumper lighting took me way longer than I would have liked. I would estimate that the RGB upgrade took me about 3 hours.

If anyone has any questions about the upgrade process I would be happy to help (if I can). Thanks!

I removed one of the harness holders to better get at the pop wires, once i had them together, i put that holder back in. Made a huge difference.

I do not have small hands, it sucked, i should have had my wife help.

I was pretty annoyed with bending the wiring out of the way on the RGB lights and getting to the mounting screw.

Yeah did not enjoy the pop wiring. It was easily the most annoying part of the process.

I’m officially in the club with my third Chicago gaming pin. 2015 LE, just ordered the upgrade kit and the topper, excited about learning the ins and outs of the game.

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Is it normal to hear a slight buzz from the speakers after ball drains? I don’t think it’s a vibration issue since I took the translite out and put a blanket between speaker box and cabinet. I even held speaker box in my hands and still hear the buzzing. I made a video of it and let me know if it’s possible to fix this or it’s normal sound. TIA.

For me the vibrations were resolved by the glass anti rattle tape from pin wizard.

I have the tape on the glass, and I even took the glass out but the buzzing is still there. Its a low tone buzzing that is heard coming from the speakers heard in video. Maybe it's normal sound but its bothering me a lot

I also upgraded the speakers to Kickers, co-axil. Best $70 spent yet. May help you out too, the Pyle speakers are lesser quality imo. Callouts are much clearer now, easy upgrade.

I just ordered those speakers. Maybe it will fix the problem thank you

Here's the speaker model: Kicker 47KSC3504

Yeah I ordered those thank you! I saw you mentioned that model in a previous post.

Hi. Are these speakers a simple drop in install, and modifications etc required?

Thanks
Craig

Mine were drop in and soldered the connections.

I started to go with the Kickers, then read up and decided to go with the Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX 3-1/2".
Crutchfield folks and some other all agreed to go with these because they were a true 3 ohm speaker.
I got them online/amazon for the same price as the Kickers at Crutchfield.
https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-REF-3032CFX-2-way-Speakers/dp/B07B8T66KB
They show up Wednesday.

I don’t know much about speakers but the stock speakers say 4 ohm on them. Shouldn’t the upgrade speakers have 4 ohm instead of 3?

Hello. Can someone, an existing MMR "Royal" owner, post a pic of the label that I think is on the inside the coin door? I’m considering getting a bill validator for my own MMR (Royal) that is forthcoming and I just wanted to see or read what Chicago Gaming actually says about using a bill validator on their “remake” machines if in fact that is what the inside label alludes to? From reading previous posts (here), I understand that there might be some slight wiring installation differences between their “Royal” remakes and the original MM machines? Thanks for your help.

9 pin connector. Standard for bill validators.

For the CGC remakes, you need a 12 volt DC bill validator.

LTG : )

Hello LTG. You know what? It’s funny that you would reply to my own post because when reviewing previous post about this, I noticed a lot of stuff posted by you over the years from helping others as well. Real cool of you. You’ve been very good & informative with this topic and I bet probably a lot of other stuff as well. I’m just curious to see what the label on the inside of the MMr (Royal) machines actually says, in addition, to what I’ve read here on the forum.

I don't have one to check. Sorry.

Maybe an owner can chime in.

LTG : )

Cannot read it, I have a bill acceptor covering it...

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