Hi LTG,

I tried an failed, cause the size of the screws doesn’t fit with our standard tools here in Germany, must be US metric. Can you please give me size of the srewtool which fits?
Thank you

I use a 1/4 inch nut driver.

LTG : )

thanks a lot, sounds good, its 66mm
we have this sizes here

0.25 inch is NOT 66mm. It’s actually 6.35mm

M6 is closest to 0.25 inch. I found this out while selecting screws for my homebrew drink caddie design.

Thanks for that. I couldn’t find it in the online MMR manual. Here is a screen shot from the AFM manual to help others.

4B249740-A4C4-4CE2-9C5D-D9F65E32CA10 (resized).jpeg

thanks, thats correct; it´s in the MBR(!) online manual too;

As my MMRRE is now 5 days here I clould check also a little bit the mass of menue items.
I noticed two things.
The Trolls Test (Test Menu T.20) does not work, neither the right nor the left one because of reported bad switch 74/75, see picture 1.
But the switches are connected correctly. This seems to be a SW problem.

Also in the MMR System Menu, at the Speaker LED Brightness (Picture 2) the brightness does not change, but the brightness of the playfield lamps under the slingshots are changing, seems to be a SW problem too.
Same with you?

Troll Test Prob (resized).jpg

Speaker Brightnessb (resized).jpg

Did you have the high power interlock switch pulled out ?

Tests - Switch Edge - does it work there ? Might not have been hit recently or might need adjusting.

LTG : )

or could be thats a 220V pin?; my friend has the same issue with the Trolls Test.
I didnt pulled out a high switch interlock, sounds risky.

110 or 220 doesn't matter. Tests are tests.

Enabling high power is the only way to test solenoids. Isn't risky. You are just turning on 50 volts to coils.

LTG : )

Can the custom logo menu be obtained by downloading the current MMR software for any MMR pin version?

Yes.

LTG : )

thank you LTG much appreciated your expertise; I will do this after deinstalling this shit Mantis Merlin hole protector to solve the issue with my popper

If I understand this correctly, to help remedy a ball not properly ejecting from the Merlin hole, you're suggesting installing a thick washer under one screw only (as shown in the pic), not all off them? I opened a ticket with CGC on this same situation, and they also suggested the thick washer, but didn't clarify under just one, or all of the screws. Hopefully, this would also help with the ball not going in the hole at all on a Merlin shot, but passing through. Frustrating as well.

Did you ever find out the problem on this issue? I have a fairly NIB MMReSE (got her about 4 months ago) -plays great right out of the box, but now having that same issue. Checked the 3 switches, etc - all register during test, but my screen shows the same issues.

Any ideas on this one?

i have more all less all probs with the Merlin hole.
1. Mantis protector (installed by the dealer) which have contact with the popper, which then stays and takes time to sink down.
2. Ball stays between popper and edge
3. sometimes ball running through Merlins hole
I hope I can fix this within next days. I have no experiences with removing the mechanic

No, just on the left end of the metal bracket, between the metal bracket and wood playfield.

LTG : )

Just wanted to give a shout out for this amazing plastic piece. At first I was like, is it really worth it and now after receiving it, I can confidently say YES. It’s flawless and looks factory produced and what they should have put on the machine initially.

I currently just had a decal, not the ones previously shown, and a plastic protector. This new piece is SO MUCH better.

Anyway, here’s a couple of pics of mine and just wanted to give props and say thanks for producing an amazing piece.

Only bad thing is now I have to figure out how to mod the metal piece to get a light under it, I know first world problems.

Take care everyone and stay safe.

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Not sure why the original game did not come with a piece here. Even if not lit up still looks so much better than blank steel.

I am contemplating how to light the piece as well. Westsiderkg did a modification to light the piece. It may be the only option. Just such a tight space.

Possibly it kept breaking on location testing?

Ive had mine on my MMR fo a week and it has not broken.

I have a question about the shaker (MMRRE, factory installed).
I can't really feel a difference to light, default and strong. Also shaky or default (2nd option) has no noticeable effect.
Is that really true?
For me, the shaker is so okay, I've had enough. A little less shake would be good to adjust.

You can adjust the power of the shaker motor mechanically.

With the game off, raise the playfield up and take the plastic cover off the shaker motor.

There are a pair of weights on the ends of the rotating shaft.

If you loosen the screw, you can change the orientation of the weights.

When they are in the same direction = maximum shaking; opposite direction = minimum shaking

This thread has some good pictures, although this is a DE shaker, they are all very similar to this design.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-adjust-a-shaker-motor-on-tftc-tutorial

RussM

Not saying this will necessarily break in a home environment, and I think it’s a great mod that was likely there originally. I’ll definitely be getting one (if he’ll ship to Oz). Just trying to reason why they’d remove it or not have it in there.

Thank you Russ,
good link, I will check this.
One part of my question was, that I feel no really differences changing the settings in the CGC menu.
Same experiences?
Joerg

I don't see much difference in the shaker motor behavior from the settings in the CGC menu either.

Changing the orientation of the weights WILL make a big difference.

While you have the cover off, make sure the mounting bolts are all tightened down. I had them loosen up a bit and it caused annoying rattling when the shaker was on.

Making everything tight fixed that.

RM

Thank you looks great

image (resized).jpg

I am going to undate my 2016 Stern built MMR Standard that still has the factoru shipped software to the latest CGC software version in order to get the custom logo menu. Does anyone have advice about backing up the version I currently have, how to, etc? Thanks in advance!

My guess is it would brake all the time...thats a high volume area....its a great looking plastic, but it really needs a plastic protector underneath to prevent this from happening

There are 2 other pieces in the immediate area. It is the middle of the 2 lanes however I do not see a lot of balls hitting the plastic area very hard. I have a protector there so I imagine it will be just fine.

Thats true and I hope your correct, but the leading right edge is vulnerable. If there was a plastic piece available I would definitely add a protector.

I don't think you can.

LTG : )

I what my update

Apologies if this issue has been discussed before, but once Damsel multiball is activated, if i shoot the ball up the ramp the gate stays open and the ball then gets stuck in the castle. Until I open the glass and remove the ball (of course losing my turn) the ball will not come free. What to do??? This is the only time the ball gets trapped in the castle.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/118#post-5636214

LTG : )

Thank you. I did that previously and that left plenty of room. The ball doesn't get trapped during the madness behind the castle. The switch it lies on does not release the ball. Again, this is not on the initial trigger shot that gets the multiball lit. it is during the Damsel multiball that this happens. I suspect the gate isn't even supposed to be open anymore at that point.

thank you guys.
I remove the Mantis protector (installed by the dealer).
I also, thanks to LTG , put an thick washer under left screw of the Merlin mechanic, as mentioned.
We played >25 games and no issues any more with the Merlin hole.
I am so happy, MMR RE runs like hell now.

Good to hear!

I’m still trying to figure out why that (my) post received a downvote.

I have a question about the DIP settings.
there is no documentation of what they are actually for.
Especially I ask myself where the difference between Europe (my delivered settings) and Germany is.

There is -

https://www.flippers.be/basics/101_wpc_country_settings.html

LTG : )

Has anyone heard anything about the upgrades from PLanetary Pinball? I have emailed Sara and she has not replied.

A quick thank you to Chuck, aka Modfather, for custom painting our castle. Pictures don't do it justice. Anyone thinking of doing this mod should have no hesitation, well worth it!!!

20200806_200918 (resized).jpg

20200806_200944 (resized).jpg

And one more thanks to M&M custom painting for your hard work painting our dragon, wow! Amazing detail.

20200806_200904 (resized).jpg

20200806_201017 (resized).jpg

20200806_201002 (resized).jpg

The diverter is stuck open. How do I fix this issue?

Does it move up and down freely ?

Does it work in Test ?

LTG : )

Check to see if it is binding on the ramp. Check for loose screws on the solenoid bracket underneath.

MMR Classic Edition - same as MMR standard edition, but plywood bottom and finished backbox edges is standard now - original MSRP $8,000

Can anybody confirm that the color DMD upgrade sold for use with the standard edition works with the CE? Thanks!

It is not moving at all anymore and does not work in test either.