Hey people buy flat plastic printed Stern Toppers at $600 and they sell out, so this one has potential around here IMO

Merlin Saucer protector installation.

Medieval Madness Moat Behind The Trap Door Cliffy Installation... Part 1.

Medieval Madness Moat Behind The Trap Door Cliffy Installation... Part 2.

Medieval Madness Cliffy Protector Review.

Just finished installing the full set. I have a tiny bit of mylar under the drops, in the shooter lane, and in front of the multiball trap door to help protect those areas. Overall I am very impressed with the set. The only thing I found difficult to install was the protector in the moat behind the castle, but that was maybe a 45 minute job. The only thing I think that would really make the protector set better would be something to protect the wood in front of the trap door.

There is now! Here is a thread showing the installation of the full set.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cliffy-mmr-installation-videos-full-set-review#post-5727731

Take a look at the Mantis set to get the cobblestone castle protector (wood protector at the castle lock door) or buy it separately thru an email to him. It's the easiest protector to install, one existing mounting screw. Also, you are missing the Cliffy drain hole protector. For anyone watching the video, the rollover Cliffy switch protectors do have adhesive backing so even though easy to install, get them on right the first time as the adhesive backing will be a bear to deal with if you need to get them back out. One tip for the moat jump Cliffy at the castle hole, there are 2 designs, one has a hole and one has a slot. The slot design is the latest and the one you should procure. I installed the Mantis and the Cliffy in the castle hole and even with the Cliffy slot design, I had to modify the slot to play nice with the Mantis. I did this 2.5 yrs ago, and probably have comments from that time frame to data mine here if anyone is interested.

BTW, I did not have to remove ramps to install at the castle hole, just that plastic stack to the left and disassemble the castle.

I don’t think he installed the drain hole because mmr have a protector around the trough at least my MMR RE did. Also, Cliffy forgets to give you the right side shooter lane protector . You have to email him to include. I installed all the Cliffy except the castle moat and Merlin which is the pinbits carbon fiber .

Can I install the mantis Merlin and the pinbits Merlin protectors together?

Also, just to clarify , instead of installing the Cliffy moat which looks like a pita , does the mantis one just slides in and bolt from the bottom or do you have to disassemble castle as well ?

Can someone tell me what this mod is for the backboard?

looks like someone made a more advance backboard mod.

http://www.edcheung.com/album/album06/Pinball/mm2.htm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=14&v=e1Vw7Fv18kw&feature=emb_logo

Anyone still make these?

Most of the time when I destroy the castle, the towers do not return to the original form. Standing straight up. Anyone else experience this? Any advice? Thank you in advance.

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And sorry for the sideways picture. Super annoying.

X2. Looks like the mantis installs from underneath, can someone confirm? 5 minute install vs 45 for cliffy part.

Also, how about a video or picture advice regarding proper mantis merlin shootout install? I've read all the posts I could...bend this, turn that, but its honestly hard to visually peice it all together. Appreciate the help.

The whole castle tower assembly is held on by four screws. Remove them and lift the towers off. Then you can inspect for loose springs, or plastic flash binding them.

LTG : )

I did this 2.5 years ago, this is the best of my re-collection but my install comments are still here in 2.5 year old comments. I installed Mantis and Cliffy in the castle moat jump hole together and Pinbits Merlin and Mantis Merlin protectors together as well. It is not easy, that's why not many MMR owners do it. I cannot remember if the Mantis moat jump needed a hole drilled or not, Cliffy definitely did not. Both should be installed from the topside, as bending the Mantis to fit from underneath will be an issue with hole side wall contact, the bent portion would have to be over bent to get the side wall pressure fit back. For that reason, underside installation of the Mantis moat jump castle hole protector is not the way to go. I do not remember which one went on first but I think I put the Mantis on first then the Cliffy and I had to modify the Cliffy slot to work with the Mantis already installed. Make sure that you have the Cliffy Moat Jump protector with the slot NOT the hole, the slot gives you more adjustment in the install positioning. The Mantis Merlin is the same issue, DO NOT BEND IT, it will not snap back to the original shape. 2 screws need to be installed for the Mantis Merlin. DRILL PILOT HOLES FIRST or the wood will crack.

What is the best adhesive to use for the Mantis castle protector (instead of drilling a hole in the playfield)?

Any double sided tape or adhesive material.

I used a double side poster tab, perfect size.

This is the poster tab product I used: Hillman P/N 121015

ebay.com link: Lot of 36 Hillman Poster Tabs Removable 12 per pack 3 packs included

One other thing to note about the Mantis castle lock protector, this is an important one:

The protector is too short, width-wise, so the square cobblestone portion does not cover the leading edge of the castle hole and even with the protector on, and the Mantis and the Cliffy there also, there will be castle hole edge damage, even with that entire setup. I am talking about the first edge of the hole that the ball encounters, rolling into the hole, the edge nearest the front of the castle in other words, topside. The poster tab I used was left just a little bit over that hole edge to protect it after I noticed the damage.

I think Kerry needs to make some changes to that Mantis protector to:

1) Remove the mounting hole in the cobblestone portion.
2) Make the cobblestone portion just a little bit WIDER to protect the leading edge of the hole as mentioned..

I sent an email off to Mantis to see if I could get just the cobblestone protector this morning. I emailed Cliffy this morning with a link to the videos, and he's going to send me the drain protector and another I didn't understand (TBD). He said he used to include the drain protector, but CGC started providing them Gratis in their games so he stopped. However, I have a very early run LE #260 and they hadn't switched to these yet. I'll throw up another video when it shows up.

They sell just that protector...I think mine was $22 + shipping

Kerry was very quick to reply about the laser etched castle protector. It was $22 + $9 shipping within the US.

Look at HEP restorations for MM. He uses a hair band to get them to stand straight up.

Here is a pic of my Cliffy Moat protector I just received from Cliffy. Is this the hole and not slot ? How does the mantis and the cliff install together?
Also, the Mantis Merlin protector, can you install from the top like the pinbits or do you need to go from the bottom?

mmr moat (resized).jpg

Why dont you buy the full kit from mantis? Kozmckpinball says you can install both the mantis and the cliff/pinbit Merlin protectors together. Also, does you Cliffy moat protector look like mine (see above post)? Kozmckpinball is saying you need the slot version to install in conjunction with the mantis.

Lastly, are you planning on to make an installation video of the mantis protectors?

Lastly, are you planning on to make an installation video of the mantis protectors?

Yes, pls!!! We need videos.

MMrRE #4265 has landed in Saint Charles, IL!

Born on June 12, 2020.

No issues at all. Fantastic game.

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My wife is not really into pinball, but loves this game!

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What's the availability of the XL Screen update? I hear they are sold out everywhere already? I can't tell from my searches, seems like a lot of places just have it on pre-order and since there is no stock anywhere it's a crapshoot?

So I’m not sure, but I’m thinking I might be one of the first to beat the new Royal Edition?! However, I’m pissed that my clock is running slow and showed yesterday’s date!!! How cool would it have been today?! I mean, really? Independence Day? Beat the king and free the land?!! Grrrr.

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LTG

Even after destroying the castle, it won’t always shoot the ball out. Waits and does a ball search.

Tests - Switch Edge - toss a ball in and it will roll to the left popper ( VUK ) does the opto register ? If not please dig deeper. Ball blocking the opto ? Opto still plugged in ? Reseat connectors if any there and to board they plug onto.

LTG : )

That's the slot version, i.e. the best design. The slot at the protector head (not the sides) was the one I was mentioning. There's no magic to getting both Cliffy and Mantis at the moat jump, I have the old comments here from 2.5 years ago if you can find them, that'd be best since I wrote the comments when I did the work. From memory, I think Mantis went on first, but I cannot remember. Those old comments will clear it up I think.

Mantis Merlin same thing, my old comments would be better to read. I think it was installed from underneath the playfield as that is where you have to drill two holes. Kerry has instructions as well somewhere. Again, make sure to drill those pilot holes, or the wood will crack. Do not bend the Mantis Merlin scoop protector, that I remember was very important to getting it right.

PinballSTAR is taking orders for the MMR Add Ons :

Medieval Madness Remake
ADD ONS - Order NOW !
Email Joe at [email protected]

Tell me MORE !
You can now turn your original MMR into more like a Royal Edition !
Available for the original run MMRs - Limited and Standard Editions
AND ALSO the more recently re-run Classic and Special Editions !

King of Payne Topper $ 600
The King of Payne has come to life and brought his trolls to assist him in guarding his domain. This custom 3D topper has been sculpted by one of the King’s personal sculptors and is available exclusively on the Royal Edition. It is nearly 8” tall and features integrated lighting that brings it to life on your quest to restore order in the kingdom.

HD Color Upgrade $ 400
All new full-color display artwork, re-imagined within the framework of the original Williams display artwork at four times the resolution. Over 2,000 frames have been painstakingly animated to create a display that features full color and four times the number of dots as the original Williams game.
No installation required - it's a just an SD card you insert into your game board in the backbox !

XL Display $ 650
Enhance your viewing experience with Chicago Gaming Company’s XL Display. The XL Display will really help bring your game larger than life with nearly 2x the display area ! AND Enhanced Sound Upgrade included !
NOTE : YOU MUST HAVE THE HD COLOR DISPLAY UPGRADE TO UTILIZE THE XL DISPLAY !
If you have one already, great ! If not, purchase that as well...

Interactive RGB General Illumination $ 250
For the first time ever, Medieval Madness has fully interactive RGB General Illumination. Medieval Madness Remake changes the general illumination of the playfield to enhance the playing experience. Watch as the dragon’s breath burns your playfield with a red glow, and as the trolls try to overpower you with green light.

What about AFMR and MBR ?
YUP, we got Color Display Upgrades for your AFMR CE and MBR CE too !

Thanks! A friend is coming over Wednesday to give it a tune up.
Second question.
It’s sounds like I’m getting feedback or excessive vibration from what I’m assuming is the sub?
Is there a way to adjust this problem?

Here is a video for everyone who is still waiting on your pin. My son made this during the unboxing and set up.

The other thing about the Mantis Merlin protector. The scoop hole is round, unlike the castle moat jump hole that is rectangular. Being a round hole, the protector can be rotated 360 degrees, and the position has to be figured out and hole location marked, then drilled. It is not a discrete position like the other protectors and this is important. Find the spot in the Merlin hole by rotating the protector around until it does not interfere with playfield mechs/parts. The Merlin solenoid bracket has to be removed to get the protector in, and you have to be aware that the solenoid bracket sits in a recessed spot in the playfeld, offset to the Merlin hole, when finding the right position for the Mantis Merlin protector. A video would be better for sure, but in my case, I've already done the work long ago. One other important note, the Mantis Merlin if positioned height-wise to the playfield is too high, there will be a lip that causes ball rejects. This can happen if the protector is bent before install.

can you take a picture of yours from underneath and on top?

Having same time and date issue others have mentioned. At first wasn’t retaining settings so swapped out battery. Haven’t had a credit dot since BUT it can’t keep correct time. Minor annoyance.

Edit: just got another time/date credit dot so I truly am in same boat as others now.

Regarding the interactive RGB general illumination, which Pinballstar announced some threads above: does the mod work for a first run MMr LE as well? And how does this work? Is it just a chip? Are the LEDs installed all RGB compatible or do you have to change the LEDs?

Yes, please a quick pic from below would be great if you have 5 minutes? Tks again for all the info, very helpful!

I can be borderline OCD at times, or so my wife tells me, but one small visual aesthetic recommendation for those taller players like me above 6' who can almost see the base of the topper when playing. I found it visually unappealing to see the silver light bar (wart) screws when playing (see red circles in picture below).

Here is a simple solution. Visit your big box hardware store and invest $15 in black frost king liner. Buy the high end stuff (see pic below). The black molding applies very easily, looks like it was intended to be there from the factory, color match is great, and best part…I no longer see the silver light bar screws while playing or when admiring the game up close or from afar with friends and family.

Hope this helps someone and would likely also work well on AFM and MB models with toppers….
After (resized).jpgBefore (resized).jpgLiner (resized).jpg

Why do you advise not to drill a hole to install the Mantis Moat Protector? I'm certainly not comfortable drilling into the playfield, but with care and a pilot hole at the correct depth, I'm wondering if you have another reason I should not do it. I agree it would be nice if Mantis would just reissue the piece without a countersunk hole, and then advise to use two sided tape.

Yes.

New LEDs. Boards. Might be individual LEDs too if any spots need it.

LTG : )

If you are talking about the Mantis castle cobblestone protector, it's a hole on the game play surface. Screw could back off and stick up at anytime, could hurt re-sale (believe it or not I've seen this on Pinside at least once), but mainly, it is not needed. What is needed is a wider portion of the cobblestone feature, it does not currently extend far enough to protect the topside leading edge of that retangular hole. The combination of the Mantis castle cobblestone, Mantis moat jump and Cliffy moat jump the hole still does not protect the hole edge. There is an opportunity for someone to come up with a new protector there if the Mantis cobblestone stays as-is. The poster 2 sided adhesive tab can be left to hang over the edge to help.

Here is the Mantis Merlin installed screw locations, left and right. The best I can do, I am not removing the Merlin hole actuator. Also, a picture of the Mantis eject protector screw location, that L78 board has to be detached in order to get that drilled correctly. The Mantis Moat Jump did require 2 holes to be drilled underneath of the playfield but if I remember properly, it installed from the topside.

Sorry that's all I can give you, today's my anniversary.

070620 Mantis Eject Protector (resized).JPG070620 Mantis Merlin Protector left screw (resized).JPG070620 Mantis Merlin Protector right screw (resized).JPG

The referenced post is a bit old but... I'm having a similar problem and I didn't see anything that indicated how the referenced post was resolved. I'm updating an LE to prep it for upgrades. The 3.0.0 update fails later in the install (~93%) but after booting it says it's now at 3.0.0. I've tried multiple cards and multiple downloads. Do I need to do anything else or am I good to go?

My install did the same thing. Just before it was completed (95%+ complete), I looked away for a minute, and when I looked back it said the install failed. But when I rebooted the machine, it said 3.0 is installed. I didn't think much of it because the pin plays fine. I am still waiting for the topper, XL screen, etc. but am now worried they won't work properly. I guess we will find out when the upgrades finally start shipping.

My issue is not resolved. I would strongly encourage you to open a ticket with CGC. https://chicagogamingcompany.freshdesk.com/support/login

I have an earlier model LE from the original run. Number 260. My machine had the 1.0 code on it and I updated directly to 3.0 but couldn't complete the install. It would get to 8x%, say it failed installation, and then upon reboot said it was updated to 3.0 code. Everything works, but I am unsure if I can upgrade it or not. I have done every bit of troubleshooting I can. Factory reset on machine. Battery out power recycle. Downgrading to the 2.2 code that came with my color chip and then re upgrading to 3.0. Trying the memory card write process on multiple memory cards on multiple computers with different disk imager and SD cards with no difference in outcome.

CGC has been responsive, but their latest step is to mail them the controller board and SD card to use. I have not done so as my machine currently works but was debating sending it to them.

However, if I am not the only person with this issue, it is likely a more systemic problem, at least with some older versions of the machine. If multiple people are having the same issue (we are) that would indicate it is now a "problem" and not an "incident". CGC can't approach the problem as a larger issue unless they know multiple folks are having the same problem so I would point you back to opening a ticket. The more people that open the same type of ticket the more likely it is to be resolved in a timely manner.

Here is what CGC replied to my ticket updates, hopefully these may be your issue and it may fix itself:

1. Is the micro-SD card you're using 8 GB (at least) and class 10 (has 10 inside a C symbol)? The link on our Website is to Amazon.com, and what they put there might not be what you need.
2. Older versions of the software have problems. ​Are you getting your software from the link below? https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness/update/latest
3. Please go to our Website and download the software again. I believe it's been updated since you last downloaded it. Be careful to download it to a location where it can't be confused with your previous downloads, as the file name will be the same.
4. I take it your game has been made unplayable by the attempted software update. If you like, you can send your controller board and SD card to us, and we will do whatever it takes to get it working. You would only pay for shipping, unless we have to replace the Beaglebone. ​Please let me know if you'd like to do this, and I will have an RMA number sent to you.

I would like to emphasize that CGC is helping with this and has been reponsive to my tickets, but it is still not resolved. I hold no ill will towards CGC, am simply trying to pass along what I know and have been told, and have no idea if the upgrades will work with the installation in this state.

Once again as is my machine works 100% and the game as a whole is awesome.

My MMR turned up today. Box was a bit rough but everything was good on opening... phew! It really is a beautiful game... played perfectly out of the box... very smooth. A couple of vibrations and a blemish on the lock bar to sort and that’s it.
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