(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed


By SuperPinball

5 years ago



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#6151 45 days ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I'm a little confused from the prior posts, maybe someone can help me understand?
I have an MMrLE and want to know if I should be upgrading to this 3.0 software or not?

I do and did and it seems to work fine.

#6152 45 days ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I'm a little confused from the prior posts, maybe someone can help me understand?
I have an MMrLE and want to know if I should be upgrading to this 3.0 software or not?

I have a ticket in with CGC. Long story short I cannot complete an upgrade from 1.0 to the latest 3.0 code. I personally would recommend against trying to install it until told otherwise by CGC. It may be just my machine, it may be my card. I may just be an idiot but I personally cannot complete the installation on my original run LE. I'm hoping to get a response from them next week once the business opens.

The installation won't finish, and stalls out at 81%. I can still play, and the menu shows 3.0.0 with more options, but it never completes the installation. So far as I can tell the upgrade adds the functionality of compatibility with the new topper, new RGB lighting, and new XL screen. If you have not purchased any of these I would not worry about it. Alternatively, I would not buy these unless I knew for sure the 3.0 code was working on my machine.

#6153 45 days ago
Quoted from Bmanpin:

I do and did and it seems to work fine.

That's great news!

#6154 45 days ago
Quoted from Bmanpin:

I do and did and it seems to work fine.

But do you have the topper, led upgrade or screen installed?

#6155 45 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

No luck. I tried both with the exact same results. However, CGC is very responsive and actually answered my ticket within an hour of posting on a Saturday night (Thanks Lloyd). It's being escalated to the engineers. I have my suspicions it's an issue going straight from 1.0 code to 3.0 code but we shall see. I can play my game for the moment and my color chip isn't scheduled to arrive until later this week.

Good luck! Would be curious to know what the issue is/was..

#6156 45 days ago

Hello everyone....brand new pinball owner here. I recently picked up a MMr and after playing it a while I've noticed two minor issues that I'd like input about.

First, the catapult switch is not registering about 70% of the time when the ball goes in there. If the ball isn't launched immediately, I can give the side of the cabinet a thump that triggers the switch, otherwise I have to wait for the ball search to kick the ball out. This is probably just a simple switch adjustment, but before I get out the needle nose pliers and start wailing on the switch, is there a right way/wrong way to adjust these types of switches?

Second, the castle gate is not registering hits about about 50% of the time....the harder the hit the more likely it isn't going to register. I cleaned the opto at the entrance, but the behavior didn't change. I had a good look with the glass off last night and realized the ball is jumping over the opto. It looks like edge of the drawbridge is not straight (there's a small section that is bent upward). What's the best way to straighten this piece so it doesn't cause the ball to jump?

Thanks for the input everyone, I'm really enjoying one of my first purchasesCatapult Switch (resized).jpg!Drawbridge1 (resized).jpgDrawbridge2 (resized).jpg

#6157 45 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

If true I hope they make older versions of software available. I'd like to make the color chip work.

The color chip will work with the older software. The new software will be needed to upgrade display, GI and to add the topper.

#6158 45 days ago
Quoted from N101AA:

This is probably just a simple switch adjustment, but before I get out the needle nose pliers and start wailing on the switch, is there a right way/wrong way to adjust these types of switches?

See picture. Bend towards top of playfield a bit at the yellow arrow. Stay away from the red X area so you don't muck up the action of the tiny knob going into the switch body.

Quoted from N101AA:

Second, the castle gate is not registering hits about about 50% of the time.

Try lowering your flipper strength, the ball may be going up there higher than the optos.

Check both in Tests - Switch Edge - roll a ball between optos or roll a ball into catapult.

LTG : )

switch (resized).jpg
#6159 45 days ago
Quoted from N101AA:

Hello everyone....brand new pinball owner here. I recently picked up a MMr and after playing it a while I've noticed two minor issues that I'd like input about.
First, the catapult switch is not registering about 70% of the time when the ball goes in there. If the ball isn't launched immediately, I can give the side of the cabinet a thump that triggers the switch, otherwise I have to wait for the ball search to kick the ball out. This is probably just a simple switch adjustment, but before I get out the needle nose pliers and start wailing on the switch, is there a right way/wrong way to adjust these types of switches?
Second, the castle gate is not registering hits about about 50% of the time....the harder the hit the more likely it isn't going to register. I cleaned the opto at the entrance, but the behavior didn't change. I had a good look with the glass off last night and realized the ball is jumping over the opto. It looks like edge of the drawbridge is not straight (there's a small section that is bent upward). What's the best way to straighten this piece so it doesn't cause the ball to jump?
Thanks for the input everyone, I'm really enjoying one of my first purchases[quoted image]![quoted image][quoted image]

Bending the switch up slightly should help the ball close the switch when it rests in the catapult arm. As for the drawbridge and gate, I believe that is actually an opto before the ball crosses the moat. I find that balls crossing either the opto going very slow or very fast sometimes don't trigger. Also, since airballs happen often for me around the moat, it might not actually cross the opto.

#6160 45 days ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I'm a little confused from the prior posts, maybe someone can help me understand?
I have an MMrLE and want to know if I should be upgrading to this 3.0 software or not?

I you want tp upgrade your LE with the new parts like RGB, topper, Colour Display, you need the V3 SW to run

#6161 45 days ago
Quoted from Bmanpin:

I do and did and it seems to work fine.

Do you notice anything different compared to the old code?

Specifically I'm wondering if the sound is improved with the new code.

From CGC's release notes it looks like it's just support for the upgrade kits and a bug on the custom logo -- https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness/update

thanks

#6162 43 days ago

Having an issue with MMr Fuse f1 (6.3a) blowing when I turn on, not all the time but say once a month!
So annoying as I've had to change it about a dozen times since I got the machine brand new, but its such an intermittent issue its so tough to track down.

Should I replace the little PCB that holds this fuse and or the PSU just behind it?

Raised a call with Chicago gaming when I first got the machine but as its so intermittent its a pain.

#6163 43 days ago

Any new news on shipping???

#6164 43 days ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

Any new news on shipping???

You should probably check directly with P1. Even if CGC is shipping games this week it doesn’t mean they are sending P1’s allotment.

#6165 43 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

You should probably check directly with P1. Even if CGC is shipping games this week it doesn’t mean they are sending P1’s allotment.

yes P1 said MAYBE a few weeks IF CGC gets the part they needed and starts production again Need to pay for this puppy before the dollar takes another nose dive lol

#6166 43 days ago
AE126EC9-82E5-43D9-A38D-134AE8CF2147 (resized).jpegA3FE2A54-0862-439F-B0A4-03E081B91692 (resized).jpegC8D8709A-42F7-4F73-A819-5849C3DBFA5B (resized).jpeg
#6167 43 days ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Any issues? Playfield have the sanding marks at some inserts?

#6168 43 days ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

yes P1 said MAYBE a few weeks IF CGC gets the part they needed and starts production again Need to pay for this puppy before the dollar takes another nose dive lol

I checked with P1 in Mtl and CGC told them they have ALL parts to finish and the production line is fully up and running. P1 expects their games within 2 weeks... I will believe it when I see the game in my basement lol.

#6169 43 days ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Any issues? Playfield have the sanding marks at some inserts?

Nope playfield looks like glass. I had some left over wax around the troll area but that’s it. Played it a bunch and nothing to report negative

#6170 43 days ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Nope playfield looks like glass. I had some left over wax around the troll area but that’s it. Played it a bunch and nothing to report negative

Good.

#6171 43 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I checked with P1 in Mtl and CGC told them they have ALL parts to finish and the production line is fully up and running. P1 expects their games within 2 weeks... I will believe it when I see the game in my basement lol.

Cool- lets hope our Canuck peso gains some more strength in the next couple weeks

#6172 43 days ago

Mine shipped last Friday, it was definitely the topper part as discussed. Delivery tomorrow it seems.

#6173 43 days ago
Quoted from Yoxxy:

Mine shipped last Friday, it was definitely the topper part as discussed. Delivery tomorrow it seems.

So awesome!

#6174 43 days ago
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:

Having an issue with MMr Fuse f1 (6.3a) blowing when I turn on, not all the time but say once a month!
So annoying as I've had to change it about a dozen times since I got the machine brand new, but its such an intermittent issue its so tough to track down.
Should I replace the little PCB that holds this fuse and or the PSU just behind it?
Raised a call with Chicago gaming when I first got the machine but as its so intermittent its a pain.

I had that fuse blow on me once as well. I replaced it and it never did it again. Not sure why it blew.

#6175 43 days ago
Quoted from underlord:

But do you have the topper, led upgrade or screen installed?

Not yet but the topper is on order which I imagine I won’t get for quite some time. But I will be ready if I ever get the topper.

#6176 43 days ago
Quoted from JimFNB:

Do you notice anything different compared to the old code?
Specifically I'm wondering if the sound is improved with the new code.
From CGC's release notes it looks like it's just support for the upgrade kits and a bug on the custom logo -- https://www.chicago-
gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness/update
thanks

I haven’t played it enough yet but I did roll through a couple games and the only thing I noticed was the ability to increase or decrease the sub bass. And I don’t think that was there before.

#6177 43 days ago

Mine comes tomorrow as well

#6178 43 days ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

Cool- lets hope our Canuck peso gains some more strength in the next couple weeks

you could always go buy the USD now if you wanted to lock it in and decrease the risk of it going against you! hard to imagine the C$ getting a lot stronger in the near term. Oil is still shaky, in my opinion. I know it is more decoupled than it was, but it still impacts C$.

#6179 43 days ago

leaffan67: That’s prudent advice.
This is exactly what I did yesterday, locking in the fx (to USD) in order to have funds ready go for the MM Royal when it lands locally.
Also agree, it seems unlikely that the $CAD will continue to appreciate significantly in the short-term. It’s already had an unexpected bump over the past week.

#6180 43 days ago
Quoted from brian-allen:

I’m proud to present my artwork for my alternate Medieval Madness Translite and Acrylic Backglass, (officially licensed from Williams) is now available!
I asked for a lot of feedback from Medieval Madness fans before starting. It was suggested that I illustrate the Six Kings of each of the Castles you destroy in the game. The Earl of Ego, Sir Psycho, Francois De Grimm, Lord Howard Hurtz, the Duke of Bourbon, and of course, Payne! It was also suggested that I add a bunch of tributes to Monty Python’s Holy Grail, so I snuck in as many as I could. Overall, the general feedback was that they wanted to see something more colorful, light-hearted, and fun than the original backglass art, which was created by the legendary pinball artists, Greg Freres and John Youssi.
This is my most detailed and time-consuming alternate Backglass so far (I’ve also designed one for Attack From Mars, and another for Monster Bash). Medieval Madness is a highly respected and coveted pinball game, and I wanted to put everything I had into this to pay it the respect it deserved. I hope fans of the game are satisfied!
ACRYLIC BACKGLASS version:
• Reverse-printed on a 1/8″ thick translucent acrylic backglass (not a thin Translite).
• Printed by the same manufacturer as Stern and Chicago Gaming.
• Double-layered ink, and double-layered white backing to make the colors really pop.
• Measures 27"x 18 7/8" to fit in a Medieval Madness Classic and Remake machine, or a lightbox. Looks beautiful when backlit!
• It comes with a certificate of authenticity signed and numbered by the artist.
• LIMITED TO ONLY 250 ever.
• NOTE: Please allow 30 days shipping, due to increased printing and processing time due to COVID-19.
• $225 plus shipping
TRANSLITE version:
• Flexible Translite material.
• Printed by the same manufacturer as Stern and Chicago Gaming.
• Double-layered ink, and double-layered white backing to make the colors really pop.
• Measures 26.5"x 18 3/8" to fit in a Medieval Madness Classic and Remake machine, or a lightbox. Looks beautiful when backlit!
• Signed by the artist
• Shipping now! Ships internationally
• $119.99 plus shipping
Learn more, or order one here:
https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product-category/pinball-and-arcade-artwork/
VIDEO of the product:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That artwork is amazing. I'd like to use it as my PC wallpaper. I can lift it from the video but do you mind uploading a 1920x1333 PNG of this? That maintains the aspect ratio and I can just crop the height for a 1920x1080 screen resolution.

#6181 42 days ago

Delivery scheduled for me tomorrow at 5pm! Can’t wait!

#6182 42 days ago

Morning fellow MMr owners. I have recently encountered a problem with my machine where the left troll is having difficulty staying in its upright position. Are there any suggestions as to what the issue maybe?

I ensured the switch is making contact, the troll moves easily in its housing/track. The only thing I am guessing is that I may need a stronger spring; thinking the old one is past its prime.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thank you.

#6183 42 days ago
Quoted from Ripshill:

I have recently encountered a problem with my machine where the left troll is having difficulty staying in its upright position. Are there any suggestions as to what the issue maybe?

Quoted from Ripshill:

I ensured the switch is making contact,

Too good of contact. Going up it registers a hit and down she goes. Adjust the leaf blade switch behind the troll face to be a tiny bit less sensitive.

Quoted from Ripshill:

The only thing I am guessing is that I may need a stronger spring; thinking the old one is past its prime.

Look where the spring is. It makes it drop faster. Nothing to do with holding it up.

LTG : )

#6184 42 days ago
Quoted from Ripshill:

I have recently encountered a problem with my machine where the left troll is having difficulty staying in its upright position. Are there any suggestions as to what the issue maybe?

Also please check the coil wires and to the board they plug onto. It has three lugs like a flipper coil, has a hold winding.

If that is good and appears to be a coil hold issue. Then the small driver board it plugs onto. No need to remove the connectors. Remove the screws, unplug the small driver board from the huge board it plugs onto. And plug it back in again, and be sure the ten pins along the edge are seated in tight. Replace the screws.

People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.

LTG : )

#6185 42 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Too good of contact. Going up it registers a hit and down she goes. Adjust the leaf blade switch behind the troll face to be a tiny bit less sensitive.

Look where the spring is. It makes it drop faster. Nothing to do with holding it up.
LTG : )

Hi LTG, I do not think it is a leaf switch issue but I will check none the less. If it was a leaf switch wouldn't the troll hit sound register? I will try to explain more clearly. The troll pops up when the mode starts but fails to stay up and just pops back down without registering the necessary hits for the troll.

#6186 42 days ago

i have some speaker grills in stock again

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/medieval-madness-coat-of-arms-speskergrill

1e57727ad4a3c14a807d4833362e16becef811f3 (resized).jpg
#6187 42 days ago
Quoted from Ripshill:

I do not think it is a leaf switch issue

Then this :

Also please check the coil wires and to the board they plug onto. It has three lugs like a flipper coil, has a hold winding.

If that is good and appears to be a coil hold issue. Then the small driver board it plugs onto. No need to remove the connectors. Remove the screws, unplug the small driver board from the huge board it plugs onto. And plug it back in again, and be sure the ten pins along the edge are seated in tight. Replace the screws.

People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.

LTG : )

#6188 42 days ago

I just heard on a pod cast that we can add a custom logo to the MM RE??? Does this mean we can have it read with the Williams Logo on it? Sorry if this has been addressed, but was lazy and didn't want to read through the previous 120 pages... LOL

#6189 42 days ago
Quoted from Scott9:

I just heard on a pod cast that we can add a custom logo to the MM RE??? Does this mean we can have it read with the Williams Logo on it? Sorry if this has been addressed, but was lazy and didn't want to read through the previous 120 pages... LOL

Yes. Any image you want. Just a few pages back someone posted a cool image for it with a serial number.

Info is in the manual regarding size and what not. I cannot recall off the top of my head....

#6190 42 days ago
Quoted from Highscoresaves:

Yes. Any image you want. Just a few pages back someone posted a cool image for it with a serial number.

Info is in the manual regarding size and what not. I cannot recall off the top of my head....

In the AFMR or MBR manual. Not in the MMR manual, at least the download one.

You can download the manuals from the CGC website - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/product/manuals

LTG : )

#6191 42 days ago

Here is Brian Allen's alternate translite cropped to 1920x1080 for a desktop wallpaper. I captured this from the YouTube video for best quality as saved as lossless PNG. It's cropped evenly along the top and bottom to fit the 16:9 aspect ratio. I feel this is best to preserve King Payne's face on the bottom and most of Merlin at the top.

MM.png

#6192 42 days ago

Having an issue with my Royal MMR.

About 15 to 20% of the time when the catapult launches the ball it hits the switch at the top of the ramp (behind the castle) . When it hits the switch it slows the ball down or it may even bounce off the switch and roll back.

I went in the settings to lower catapult power but it's on default. The only other options are +1 and +2 which would make it too strong.

#6193 41 days ago
Quoted from marspinball:

Having an issue with my Royal MMR.
About 15 to 20% of the time when the catapult launches the ball it hits the switch at the top of the ramp (behind the castle) . When it hits the switch it slows the ball down or it may even bounce off the switch and roll back.
I went in the settings to lower catapult power but it's on default. The only other options are +1 and +2 which would make it too strong.

I had the same issue. I adjusted the ramp to come in more. YMMV.

57C3C834-BD70-41E7-BC7A-05B4BC08999F (resized).jpeg
#6194 41 days ago

I have had my machine 2 weeks brand new in box. I noticed my right troll when facing machine was popping up too high and getting stuck. I looked under the playfield and noticed it was missing this black hex screw that attaches it underneath. I can't seem to find it anywhere in the machine. Somehow it is lost. I show one picture with the left troll with the screw and the right without. Is this a screw I can find at any hardware store or do I need and wait and get replacement from CGC. Thanks.

IMG_9145 (resized).JPGIMG_9146 (resized).JPGIMG_9147 (resized).JPG
#6195 41 days ago
Quoted from monte_:

Is this a screw I can find at any hardware store

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-5161

Probably not. You can find a screw that will screw in there on existing threads in the collar, and grind or file a point on the end of the screw so it goes in the hold in the plunger shaft.

LTG : )

#6196 41 days ago

If the problem just started, that bolt should be somewhere in the cabinet. Could be hiding in the subwoofer. I would do another search.

11
#6197 41 days ago

And there it is!! Literally played perfect right out of the box. Never set a pin up that was so easy. Just leveled and bam. I swear it’s smoother and faster than my mmrLE. First game, first ball in I thought for a moment I might actually make a run at the bftk but the game quickly put me in my place.

Such an awesome upgrade. If anyone is on the fence about the upgrade kit I would go for it 100%. I just didn’t want the effort of the gi install.

415E226D-5234-4AED-8C75-1C911CC72756 (resized).jpegC7074A98-7FE9-4C6F-98EA-E546C5C69A9F (resized).jpeg87EAAD68-5FA4-4FEC-BCBC-744CF295D291 (resized).jpeg
#6198 41 days ago
Quoted from monte_:

Is this a screw I can find at any hardware store or do I need and wait and get replacement from CGC. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like a 1/4"-20 set screw would work - I am sure Lowe's or Home Depot sells them

#6199 41 days ago

I got mine yesterday, is it possible the trolls are not cable tied? I can take a picture after work. I do not see anything tying them like in the picture on the playfield. The only cable ties are of the wires to the metal sleeves. I assume those are to be left on?

#6200 41 days ago
Quoted from Yoxxy:

I got mine yesterday, is it possible the trolls are not cable tied? I can take a picture after work. I do not see anything tying them like in the picture on the playfield. The only cable ties are of the wires to the metal sleeves. I assume those are to be left on?

It’s possible. Mine were there for sure. With little black cable ties. Check the motion of the trolls. If they freely go up and down they might have forgotten the shipping zipties. Did they have the rubber band on the castle?

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