Wasn't there an update that a fix to this date/time issue is known and it'll be included in the SW update?
Quoted from eharan:I filed my ticket on the date time credit dot issue
A fix is being tested. Should be out in a week or two.
Any time you don't hear back in one day, please pm me with the ticket number and I'll look into it.
Thank you,
LTG : )
Quoted from Pablito:after the first year or two, it had premature wear
$6500 offer on the table...
Quoted from LTG:A fix is being tested. Should be out in a week or two.
Any time you don't hear back in one day, please pm me with the ticket number and I'll look into it.
Thank you,
LTG : )
Quoted from jfesler:New market opportunity for Cliff: slingshot protectors!
Quoted from indypinhead:markmon,
Hate to have to disagree with you. But using that method, in my book, would be a "hack". To do it right, all it would take is to replace the plunger rod with a slightly longer one, maybe 1/8th inch longer. By doing so, you'll be reducing the amount of travel the kicker arm performs. By replacing the plunger, you no longer have the risk of whatever coil stop spacer you use working its' way loose and possibly causing future damage to the coil and/or assembly.
Or simply replace the current coil stop with the longer coil stops available (used on the Shadow's ramp assemblies). If this works it will perform just as if you moved the entire assembly back a bit. It would be easy and "factory clean".
It wouldn't fix the damage already done obviously
Quoted from Manic:Or simply replace the current coil stop with the longer coil stops
I was thinking about this as a fix as well. I'd be interested to hear about any possible problems this could cause (mushrooming the plunger?). If it worked, seems like a super cheap and easy fix, compared to breaking out the bamboo skewers/drill and wood glue.
Anyone try this? What is the part number for the shadow part. Any know how much longer than the original. Would love to see side by side pics of the two coil stops.
Quoted from Manic:Or simply replace the current coil stop with the longer coil stops available (used on The Shadow's ramp assemblies). If this works it will perform just as if you moved the entire assembly back a bit. It would be easy and "factory clean".
It wouldn't fix the damage already done obviously
Shortening slingshot travel will change slingshot action which does not sound like a good fix to a brand new $8000 machine still covered under full factory warrantee.
This is one of the highest priced pinball machines ever made and the price should include room for any warranty repairs such as replacing the playfield as other companies do.
Quoted from marspinball:Would love to see side by side pics of the two coil stops.
Here ya go!
The Shadow diverter stop is the one on the top.
detail.JPG detail-1.JPG
Quoted from o-din:Here ya go!
The Shadow diverter stop is the one on the top.
detail.JPG detail-1.JPG
Ok so that idea won't work. The pic is odd as I remember it is longer than a standard coil stop (or maybe I have it backwards - it's been a while since I replaced both of them). But if the sling is a one piece assembly the idea is moot anyways (haven't had to lift a PF in a while).
Just a thought anyways... carry on
still not sure a total novice will be comfortable moving the assembly and of course this doesn't fix the cosmetic issue.
Quoted from Manic:still not sure a total novice will be comfortable moving the assembly and of course this doesn't fix the cosmetic issue.
Here are the instructions how to move it. How you proceed with getting your damaged playfield resolved is up to you.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-r-slingshot-repair
Quoted from o-din:Here are the instructions how to move it. How you proceed with getting your damaged playfield resolved is up to you.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-r-slingshot-repair
Well *I* sure don't need the info (as I don't own this new version)but I'm sure somebody reading will find it helpful. I'm gonna check the thread out anyways - I haven't really been following the whole MMR thing.
--- yeah moving the assembly seems the thing to do. Pretty straightforward also. The cosmetic solutions... not so much.
Quoted from Pimp77:Suddenly I'm glad I don't have mine yet...work those issues out CGC/PPS! But look at that clear otherwise...nice!
This is always the case with pinball. I don't know why people are hellbent on getting a low number. In pinball you want to the last games, not the first. First ones are the ones that have a bunch of shit wrong with them. That's when you can tell someone used to be a collector of anything else and fresh to pinball. when they want a low number of something. Every other collector world it's usually fine, pinball is the opposite.
I didn't get my deposit in for mine until the end of April of this year. I'll gladly wait until the bugs are ironed out before I shell out the balance.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:This is always the case with pinball. I don't know why people are hellbent on getting a low number. In pinball you want to the last games, not the first. First ones are the ones that have a bunch of shit wrong with them. That's when you can tell someone used to be a collector of anything else and fresh to pinball. when they want a low number of something. Every other collector world it's usually fine, pinball is the opposite.
Exactly!!!
hi
mine as a trouble I think I didn't read here...
after 5-10 games (but sometimes 1-2), both flippers stop working. in the middle of a game, they die. I can't start again because the Start button is also dead. I can't see a pattern when or what I do when it happens.
but it is alway after 3-4 minutes of play after 5-10 games.
I added a bunch of mods plugged on GIs. can it be a reason?
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:I added a bunch of mods plugged on GIs. can it be a reason?
Unplug and see.
LTG : )
I just hooked up a DK board and have everything I need. Like LED flipper buttons and so on.
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:I added a bunch of mods plugged on GIs. can it be a reason?
If you are trying to use mods designed for the higher voltage WPC system, and you assumed that because the mod uses LED and the new game uses LED that it should work just fine... Yes. that certainly could be the reason. There are different voltages and draws even on LED components.
Folks have been warning about this since almost the original announcement. I know 2 years is a long wait but if you guys spent it stocking up on mods you have bought stuff that is not compatible with the new system, and could potentially damage your new game.
Quoted from Cheese_WizardPQ:hi
mine as a trouble I think I didn't read here...
after 5-10 games (but sometimes 1-2), both flippers stop working. in the middle of a game, they die. I can't start again because the Start button is also dead. I can't see a pattern when or what I do when it happens.
but it is alway after 3-4 minutes of play after 5-10 games.
I added a bunch of mods plugged on GIs. can it be a reason?
I believe I might be experiencing a similar problem. My game will play normally for a few balls or games and then for some reason the catapult or popper stop working. Going into solenoid tests reveals that several other solenoids have stopped firing as well. Going through the tests several times can result in them firing again. Sometimes rebooting solves it for a game or two. I opened a ticket 26 days ago. Two weeks ago I received two PIA chips to swap but it didn't resolve the problem. LTG has been communicating with me but both of us have been waiting to hear back from Chicago gaming for the past 11 days with zero communication.
Quoted from Tbgolfen:I believe I might be experiencing a similar problem.
Check the wiring in the 'power-up' box in the bottom right hand side of the cabinet. Remove the clear cover and you will see a major connector. Unplug it and then re-seat it. This was the problem for me. It APPEARED to be fully connected, but it wasn't. I was losing all kinds of power on the PF, and saw erratic things going on. We did all the usual diagnostics and spent hours and hours trying to trace down the problem. This was the very last place we decided to check out, and only intended to check the fuses. However, when I lifted those wires, the connectors fell apart. We plugged them in correctly and that fixed all my problems.
Mike in Kentucky
The 50v power harness was not plugged in... at all. Just barely touching the pins. Quality control much?
Holy shit at the list of issues. Not pot stirring I just had no idea there were so many potential issues with this nib machine
I hope wveryones pins are all 100% and everyone has fun with their toys when all is said and done
Thanks Mike for the response. I just gave it a try and no such luck. I did notice another symptom today. The drawbridge optos record 10pts but it does not register as a castle hit. I have attached a few videos for those interested.
My game will boot sometimes with a random solenoid firing repeatedly. The only way to stop it is to power off.
Quoted from Tbgolfen:I just gave it a try and no such luck.
Oh, man! I was so convinced you would tell me that was your problem too and all your problems would be over. I'm sorry . . . because I don't know any other suggestions.
Good luck!
Mike
Do they play test these things at all before shipping? I would hope that they would. I can't see how some of these issues could make it past any kind of QC.
Ok. I've been playing my just received 157 le and the optics don't seem to be registering a castle hit after the drawbridge goes down and the gate goes up. I haven't done a switch test yet but are the optics that would cause the castle crash to the left and right of the gate?
I did a solenoid test and they activate the towers. Also the drawbridge and gate function. But the castle never goes down.
I need to lift the playfield to check for loose wires.....any thoughts?
Quoted from Pintucky:Oh, man! I was so convinced you would tell me that was your problem too and all your problems would be over. I'm sorry . . . because I don't know any other suggestions.
Good luck!
Mike
It has been almost 15 days and I have heard nothing from Chicago. I gave Rick a call at Plantetary to see if he could assist me in getting someone on the phone at Chicago. He suggested we do some troubleshooting while I was on the phone.
I was going to switch the solenoid driver boards around to isolate the problem. In removing them, 2 fell out into my hands while the third took firm force to remove. It then became apparent that they were never seated properly in the sockets. I assumed these were soldered onto the main board but that is incorrect. So any funny firing of flippers solenoids and such, I would start with making sure these boards are pushed firmly into the sockets. This could be a failure point over time as they may have a tendency to move.
The game has been up and running for 4 hours with no malfunctions. Thanks to Rick again!
wow. good to know Tbgolfen.
hope it solves my problems! kids and friends already put this great game aside in my lineup. when the first impression isn't a good one...
Quoted from Tbgolfen:...In removing them, 2 fell out into my hands while the third took firm force to remove. It then became apparent that they were never seated properly in the sockets.
Huh...who is assembling these?
Quoted from gliebig:Do they play test these things at all before shipping? I would hope that they would. I can't see how some of these issues could make it past any kind of QC.
When you get a new game, the first thing you should do is re-seat all the connectors and make sure no screws or other fasteners have worked loose.
You don't want to see what shipping companies do to your pins over the course of 1900 miles........
Has there been a code update yet? I keep hearing that a fix for the credit dot issue is in new code but I have been waiting over 2 months for my issue to be resolved and have not heard anything!
Quoted from eharan:Has there been a code update yet? I keep hearing that a fix for the credit dot issue is in new code but I have been waiting over 2 months for my issue to be resolved and have not heard anything!
There's a super secret code released.
...It's comprised of some borked up brainwashing that tells you chunks of your playfield flying at your face is ok. Shhhhh!!!
With the docs that ship with the game - who does it say to call with tech support issuses? CGC / PPS / or distributor?
Quoted from tslayer71:With the docs that ship with the game - who does it say to call with tech support issuses? CGC / PPS / or distributor?
Not sure. I would contact your distributor. And open a ticket on the help desk. http://www.chicago-gaming.com/ Left side under Support.
And call the CGC phone number. If I'm not on the menu, ask the operator for MMR Support.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Not sure. I would contact your distributor. And open a ticket on the help desk. http://www.chicago-gaming.com/ Left side under Support.
And call the CGC phone number. If I'm not on the menu, ask the operator for MMR Support.
LTG : )
So CGC is handling tech support?
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