New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 125358)

MMR NIB Repair Kit


By labnip

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 650 posts
  • 143 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by labnip
  • Topic is favorited by 135 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 98 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_20170216_124659 (resized).jpg
IMG_7413 (resized).JPG
IMG_6809 (resized).JPG
SpeakerSeries (resized).jpg
china1 (resized).png
china (resized).jpg
IMG_2344 (resized).JPG
MMRLE-sound-upgrade-wiring-1 (resized).jpg
MMRLE-speakers-kicker-2 (resized).jpg
MMRLE-speakers-kicker-1 (resized).jpg
image4 (resized).JPG
image2-2 (resized).JPG
image1-2 (resized).JPG
MMRLE-pcb-solenoid-power-1.jpg
MMRLE-color-err-6_(resized).jpg
MMRLE-color-err-5_(resized).png

There are 650 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 13.
#601 4 years ago
▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓
▓▓                                                ▓▓
▓▓           PAGE 13 : MMR/LE Repair Kit          ▓▓
▓▓                                                ▓▓
▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓
#602 4 years ago

... Really?

#603 4 years ago

not really...

#604 4 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

This should be a "must do" change on EVERYBODY'S MMR/LE!
Upgrade the speakers with >> Kicker 40CS54 that has 90db sensitivity.
url = http://amzn.to/2bYDTHR
price = $59.00 USD

I just finished this upgrade and it is well worth the $60. It took me about 15 minutes to install. The frequency response is noticeably improved. However, that is only half the issue. It doesn't change the relative volume between the call-outs and the background music. It does however make the vocals more intelligible. Here is a photo showing the differences between the speaker sets. You can clearly observe the quality difference. In addition, the Made in China originals have a metal cap on the back that deceptively appears like a larger magnet but is not. The actual magnet is very tiny in comparison to the upgrades....

IMG_2344 (resized).JPG

#605 4 years ago

wow.... that's pretty scammy of them to put a larger cap on the back to pretend the magnet is bigger

#606 4 years ago

It's not installed to be deceptive. A cap is put on the back of some speakers as a magnetic shield in case the application is sensitive to stray magnetic fields. Some high end speakers with every reason to brag about the magnet size end up hiding it behind a shield for this reason.

In my opinion, it's not that it is a bad speaker rather that it was inappropriate to install a midrange cone where a midrange+tweeter was needed. I think the problem lies with CGC engineering rather than the cone manufacturer.

At least one person swapped the left cone for a dedicated tweeter (similar to original MM) and found excellent reaults.

#607 4 years ago

i wonder if they tested these specific speakers before making the bulk purchase, or they just like the volume price the best, bought them and then installed?
wonder if they ever noticed lower sound quality once installed, or maybe no one there is really focused on sound, but instead on other parts of the game (hardware, art, code, etc...). In the game industry overall, sound is usually the last thing to focus on and gets the smallest budget & effort (exceptions exist)

#608 4 years ago

It was obviously a bulk deal for a speaker that met the mounting size and impedance requirements and nothing more. I don't think they considered sound quality when choosing the cost-effective speakers.

#609 4 years ago

they are all made in china

#610 4 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

It was obviously a bulk deal for a speaker that met the mounting size and impedance requirements and nothing more. I don't think they considered sound quality when choosing the cost-effective speakers.

Bingo. In CGC's defense, there are no readily available 8ohm 5.25" coaxial speakers on the market that I am aware of. Aside from pinball, I can't think of any other industry that would want an 8 ohm 5.25" coaxial speaker. That might beg the question why CGC didn't just buy from Flipper Fidelity or Pinball Pro, but that's a different discussion.

#611 4 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

That might beg the question why CGC didn't just buy from Flipper Fidelity or Pinball Pro, but that's a different discussion.

We all know the answer to that Quality speakers cost more, and are not required to sell the game.

#612 4 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

they are all made in china

china1 (resized).png

china (resized).jpg

#613 4 years ago

Sorry if this has been asked, but is anyone getting random 4 ball multi balls? It may or may not be limited to 4 player games and when you attempt a super skill shot. Your playing away then you hear the trough kicking out the other 3 balls. When you lose one ball it keeps going until all are drained, it thinks that you really are to be awarded a 4 ball multi all, anyone?

#614 4 years ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

This was my post on MMr mods and speaker swap page.

I have since did a rewire to the diagram in a series and used the orange wire instead of the red. The voices seem even better and louder when wired in a series with orange wire. (Red wire not used)

SpeakerSeries (resized).jpg

2 months later
#615 3 years ago

I just got my MMLE NIB last week. Over a few days of playing, I noticed that the two illumination lamps over each side of the castle are never lit (see pics). I ran the illumination test (T.6) and these two lamps never lit up. I am wondering if you guys have any tricks to turn this on or I need to contact Chicago Gaming for this issue. I appreciate any help in advance!

IMG_6809 (resized).JPG

IMG_7413 (resized).JPG

#616 3 years ago

My shaker is always set to on - causing the bulbs to come loose periodically. If your bulbs are good and properly seated, the lights should almost always be on. No adjustment was needed after my unboxing.

1 month later
#617 3 years ago

Issue:

One of my trolls has almost stopped registering hits. Even smacking it pretty hard head on doesn't always register. Are there good instructions anywhere on how to adjust sensitivity?
Is this a common problem? Both trolls registered well out of the box, only recently this became a problem.

Solution:

It's a leaf blade switch. Two leafs. One on the troll face, one behind it. Gently tweak/bend the one behind it a tiny bit closer.

#618 3 years ago

Issue:

Does anyone know how to turn the knocker off I can't seem to find it in the settings menu.

Solution:

I believe there's no option, you have to disconnect the wires to the knocker. It's loud, so I added a piece of foam to the area the knocker hits and it dampened the effect dramatically but it's still loud enough to be satisfying. I'd try that if the loudness of the knocker is your issue.

Remove the knocker fuse; it's F4 on the small circuit board located in the right front corner of the cabinet. This card also has a very nice enable LED that lights up whenever the CPU tells the knocker to fire.

#619 3 years ago

Issue:

I'm having an issue with my MMR. The drawbridge will not go up/down.
Errors returned:
Check Drawbridge - Down switch bad
Check Drawbridge - Up switch bad
Well, from what I've gathered so far, it doesn't seem that when you turn the game on the actual motor works to cycle the drawbridge to test the switches.
I've been looking at the playfield board schematic....and I have determined I have no real idea what I'm looking at. But I have found that the wires from the motor go directly to a little board (Motor Control Board) in the lower left corner of the underside of the playfield. Then, from what I can tell, they appear to go up to the main playfield board and plug into PL9.
How do I go about testing this to see if power is actually getting to the Motor control board. The playfield schematic says (I think) there is a fuse somewhere for the motor, but I'm not exactly sure where.

Solution:
?

#620 3 years ago

Issue:

Time and date not set error two times in the last two days. This was after replacing the battery a couple of months ago.

Solution:

Dedicated outlet fixed mine, no problems for over a year. I plugged it in on a line with four other machines the other day and got the date/time error within a week.

1 month later
#621 3 years ago

If we have a problem with a NIB MMR, where do we go to submit a ticket?
thanks!

#622 3 years ago
Quoted from bkaelin:

If we have a problem with a NIB MMR, where do we go to submit a ticket?

http://www.chicago-gaming.com/

Support - Help Desk on left side of website.

LTG : )

#623 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

http://www.chicago-gaming.com/
Support - Help Desk on left side of website.
LTG : )

Thank you !!!!

2 weeks later
#624 3 years ago

Hi,

Issue:
I am having an issue with my MMR LE. Everything works fine but after 200 games or so a chip has appeared in the shooter lane. Of course I have stopped playing for the moment to think about the best way to handle this.

I am not going to strip the playfield right now for a complete reclear, but I think that will happen sometime in the future anyway. It will eventually be sent to a pro for a quality reclear. Sad but necessary as the clear is way too brittle and will eventually chip elsewhere. In the mean time I am going to install cliffy shooter lane protectors, left and right, as well as other protectors and mylar on critical spots like outhoole. Looking for some advice for handling the clear bit before installing the shooter lane cliffy.

Solution:
? for clear touch-up
Left and Right Shooter lane cliffy + mylar

IMG_20170216_124659 (resized).jpg

#625 3 years ago

id be inclined to just put the cliffy over it...

#626 3 years ago

Got some advice: will lightly sand the spot and apply some clear with a brush. Then cliffy on.

2 weeks later
#627 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

Issue:
Time and date not set error two times in the last two days. This was after replacing the battery a couple of months ago.
Solution:
Dedicated outlet fixed mine, no problems for over a year. I plugged it in on a line with four other machines the other day and got the date/time error within a week.

This is the oddest thing: my date and time worked perfectly for the first 8 months I owned the machine. I set it once and it just worked.

After 8 months, I finally decide to splurge and pay the $200 for the color DMD upgrade. After installing the color upgrade (I already had the 2.1 code and did not need to upgrade that), I get a credit dot EVERY TIME I power on the machine. The data and time is never saved after powering off the machine. Nothing else has changed in my power, plugs, or line-up.

Weird, huh?

#628 3 years ago
Quoted from Olddragon:

This is the oddest thing: my date and time worked perfectly for the first 8 months I owned the machine. I set it once and it just worked.
After 8 months, I finally decide to splurge and pay the $200 for the color DMD upgrade. After installing the color upgrade (I already had the 2.1 code and did not need to upgrade that), I get a credit dot EVERY TIME I power on the machine. The data and time is never saved after powering off the machine. Nothing else has changed in my power, plugs, or line-up.
Weird, huh?

hmmm
maybe try upgrading the code again and see what happens?

#629 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

hmmm
maybe try upgrading the code again and see what happens?

Thanks. Someone from CGC PM'ed me and I opened a ticket. They are sending me a (beta?) code update.

#630 3 years ago
Quoted from Olddragon:

Thanks. Someone from CGC PM'ed me and I opened a ticket. They are sending me a (beta?) code update.

nice. let us know if it helps.

2 weeks later
#631 3 years ago

Hello. Broke off the left troll face tonight.. He came rolling down the playfield.. LOL... Is this common..? This is a HUO game.... Just wondering.... If this has happened to others yet... ?

It look like the metal piece of the switch ==TROLL TARGET SWITCH has broken .... 18.00 dollars. Wowza.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-21743

It this going to be a PITA to fix..?. I just figured out how to turn the left troll off for now.... Bummer.

THX> Nick.. Great game by the way.... First real drama....

#632 3 years ago

Looking to get this fixed this weekend.... Is this the part I need to get ordered... THX .... http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-21743

#633 3 years ago
Quoted from NicToria:

Is this the part I need to get ordered..

Yes, if that is what broke.

Or, did the screws come loose and the face fell off ?

Remove the troll carriage, one connector below the playfield, one bolt holding the carriage collar to the plunger. For the left one remove the wireform over it, then lift up, turn left so the thing that triggers the up/down switch clears the playfiled. Then you can easily work on it at a bench or table.

LTG : )

1 week later
#634 3 years ago

Issue:
On May 4, 2017:
my game is an LE from July 2016. I haven't played the game in a few weeks, turned it on and got the error message about the date and time not being set. Hi scores and all settings remained. Was there ever a fix for this? is it because I haven't turned the game on in a little while?

Solution:
none

#635 3 years ago

Issue:
On May 4, 2017
Mine just started happening last week as well for the first time. Happens every time I start up now. Apparently there is beta firmware that remedies this, I reached out to LLoyd and and told me to open a ticket.

Oh great.
So... I need to fill out a registration card and mail it in to open a ticket... but since I don't have one, not being the OG owner... I have to register online, so I can request that Chicago Gaming mails me a registration card, which I then have to mail back to them. Is this for F'ing real?
If anybody out there is reading this, and you have the firmware that fixes this, is there any way you can hook a brother up? A PM would be greatly appreciated!
Solution:
none

#636 3 years ago

Issue:
May 4, 2017
Mine cleared up with the last code update but it also just happened again about a week ago. Not sure what the issue is.

Solution:
Doug from CGC says to install 2.0.2 firmware to solve this.

#639 3 years ago

raw text content:
=====

FOR: Mac

1) This update will only work with a Class 10 microSD Card that is 8GB or larger. You will also need a microSD USB adapter and 8GB of free space on your computer's hard drive. These are available on Amazon.
For example:
Card Only: http://amzn.to/28Q7CjE
Adapter Only: http://amzn.to/2UlWv
Card and Adapter: http://amzn.to/28Sbjaz
2) Download the update file here: http://www.chicago-gaming.com/mmr/update2.0.1.
3) Get Extractor from the Mac App Store (Free App) to unzip the .7z file you just downloaded: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/extractor-unarchive-rar-zip/id971826370?mt=12
NOTE: If the Mac App store isn't your thing, you don't have an account, and you just want to grab a different app, any free zip unarchiver will work. You can try this if you want: http://the-unarchiver.en.softonic.com/mac
4) Launch Extractor and point it at MedievalMadness201Installer.7z; let it unzip the file; verify you're done when you see MedievalMadness201Installer.img on your desktop. Here is what Get Info looks like for the completed image:
5) Download ApplePi-Baker here: http://www.tweaking4all.com/?wpfb_dl=94
6) Launch ApplePi-Baker and enter your admin password; this is required each time you launch the app and is required for the install:
7) After you've entered your password, you're taken to the main screen. On the left side, in the Pi-Crust section, select the SD card that is inserted into your Mac:
8 ) On the right side, in the Pi-Ingredients section, tap the ... to open up the File Browser
9) Find the MedievalMadness201Installer.img and press Open:
10) Press "Restore Backup" to begin the process:
11) Wait a little bit... It will tell you how much time it has:
12) When it's done writing the SD card, it will let you know that it was successful and that you can remove the SD card:
13) With the game powered off, install the card in the controller board, behind the marquee translite. Power the game on, and you will see a message that the new version is installing.
14) When you see the following message, power off the game, remove the card, and power the game back on.

V2.0.1 RELEASE NOTES

This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Next generation graphics engine to support full color display upgrade and address previous screen tearing issue.
2) Addition of Castle Multiball jackpot voice call
3) Modifications to real time clock
4) Addition of adjustment for controlled playfield LEDs
5) Addition of adjustment for trough coil strength
6) Resolution of audio crackling issue

=====
FOR: Windows OS (if anyone has 1 of these any more)

1) This update will only work with a Class 10 microSD Card that is 8GB or larger. You will also need a microSD USB adapter and 8GB of free space on your computer's hard drive. These are available on Amazon.
For example:
Card Only: http://amzn.to/28Q7CjE
Adapter Only: http://amzn.to/2UlWv
Card and Adapter: http://amzn.to/28Sbjaz
2) Download the update file here: http://www.chicago-gaming.com/mmr/update2.0.2.
3) Unzip this file.
4) Download and install Win32 Disk Imager, which can be found here:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/.
5) Insert your microSD card into your computer.
6) Open Win32 Disk Imager, and under Device, select the microSD card you inserted. Be careful not to select an external hard drive or another device, or it will be overwritten.
7) Select the folder icon to open the Medieval Madness upgrade file.
8 ) Click "Write" to start writing to the card. This will take about 10 minutes. When complete, you will get a message "Write Successful". Close Win32 Disk Imager and remove the card.
9) With the game powered off, install the card in the controller board, behind the marquee translite. Power the game on, and you will see a message that the new version is installing.
10) When you see the following message, power off the game, remove the card, and power the game back on.

V2.0.1 RELEASE NOTES

This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Next generation graphics engine to support full color display upgrade and address previous screen tearing issue.
2) Addition of Castle Multiball jackpot voice call.
3) Modifications to real time clock.
4) Addition of adjustment for controlled playfield LEDs.
5) Addition of adjustment for trough coil strength.
6) Resolution of audio crackling issue.
V2.0.2 RELEASE NOTES

This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Fixed bug in OS causing date and time to reset.

5 months later
#640 2 years ago

Thanks for putting together this guide. I received my NIB MMR today. All is well, except multi-ball isn’t working. Discovered the shooter eject issue. It works if there are four ballls in the trough. Any less and the ball doesn’t make it to the solenoid and is not ejected. The fix I believe is to bend the through a bit. I presume down? Interestingly, it’s not trying to eject, so there must be a sensor in there as well. If I push the ball over with the “empty ball” test running it immediately detects it and ejects.

Edit: I now see there are 5 optical sensors, one for each ball and jam.

#641 2 years ago
Quoted from andrewket:

The fix I believe is to bend the through a bit.

DON'T DO THAT !

The coil/plunger upkicker is fastened to the end of the ball trough with four screws. Loosen it, lower a tiny bit. Retighten.

Your plunger is up a tiny bit too high. That whole bracket is adjustable.

Your game is too new for any of the old things like magnetized balls or divots in the bottom of the ball trough.

LTG : )

#642 2 years ago

Thanks. I was just sitting here watching it and came to the same conclusion (it’s hitting the plunger). Adjusting now.

#643 2 years ago

Good save LTG.

#644 2 years ago

Good save indeed.

So I’ve adjusted it down, and the ball lands above the plunger every time. And the sensor sees it, so empty ball test keeps going. But now the ball only makes it to the shooting plunger about 20% of the time. I can adjust it back up just a bit, but we’re talking millimeter adjustments now. Before if there were multiple balls in the trough it would make it up 100% of the time.

I see where I can change the coil power up, but it seems to be a global coil setting. Is there a way to adjust just this plunger?

#645 2 years ago
Quoted from andrewket:

I see where I can change the coil power up, but it seems to be a global coil setting. Is there a way to adjust just this plunger?

You may have lowered it too much.

LTG : )

4 months later
-1
#646 2 years ago

bump... since i've been answering some questions in person lately...

3 weeks later
#647 2 years ago

labnip I am having a weird problem with my NIB MMR. When the ball enters Merlin Magic scoop, the coil will give very inconsistent power. It will work fine for days, then other days it will not have the strength to push the ball out. The switch and the coil work perfectly in test, and there is nothing obstructing the plunger going through the coil. It seems like its trying to adjust its own power, but then sometimes it will just fail with a completely weak kick. The sound fx and flasher go off like its kicking, so the game is getting the message that the ball is in there and is trying to fire.

Have you ever seen anything like this? Thanks!

#648 2 years ago
Quoted from BigBangBack:

labnip I am having a weird problem with my NIB MMR. When the ball enters Merlin Magic scoop, the coil will give very inconsistent power. It will work fine for days, then other days it will not have the strength to push the ball out. The switch and the coil work perfectly in test, and there is nothing obstructing the plunger going through the coil. It seems like its trying to adjust its own power, but then sometimes it will just fail with a completely weak kick. The sound fx and flasher go off like its kicking, so the game is getting the message that the ball is in there and is trying to fire.
Have you ever seen anything like this? Thanks!

I have see this issue mentioned on a whole bunch of new games from different manufacturers. What do all these new games have in common?

#649 2 years ago
Quoted from BigBangBack:

Have you ever seen anything like this?

Yes I have. Same issue on many original MM's too.

I'd loosen the bracket under the playfield. Slip a spacer or washe between left side of bracket and playfield, retighten the screws.

Then the ball sits in there better and gets a better kick out.

LTG : )

#650 2 years ago
Quoted from BigBangBack:

labnip I am having a weird problem with my NIB MMR. When the ball enters Merlin Magic scoop, the coil will give very inconsistent power. It will work fine for days, then other days it will not have the strength to push the ball out. The switch and the coil work perfectly in test, and there is nothing obstructing the plunger going through the coil. It seems like its trying to adjust its own power, but then sometimes it will just fail with a completely weak kick. The sound fx and flasher go off like its kicking, so the game is getting the message that the ball is in there and is trying to fire.
Have you ever seen anything like this? Thanks!

hola, i'm away from pin at moment, but...
1. if coil is always getting triggered & getting full power:
...on some other pins, a saucer kickout and scoop kickout coil can have a grommet (in the coil bracket) that ages & falls out or just comes loose, and when the coil magnetizes, it attaches itself to the back of the steal bracket that holds the coil and prevents it from firing. If that's what the design under there looks like, running a tie-wrap through the grommet hole & clipping the excess tie-wrap keeps the coil from magnetically holding onto the bracket.

2. may need to check if switch is making full/persistent closed electrical connection so board knows to send power to coil to energize & fire during the required duration.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 16.95
Playfield - Protection
ULEKstore
There are 650 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 13.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside