▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓
▓▓                                                ▓▓
▓▓           PAGE 13 : MMR/LE Repair Kit          ▓▓
▓▓                                                ▓▓
▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓

not really...

wow.... that's pretty scammy of them to put a larger cap on the back to pretend the magnet is bigger

i wonder if they tested these specific speakers before making the bulk purchase, or they just like the volume price the best, bought them and then installed?
wonder if they ever noticed lower sound quality once installed, or maybe no one there is really focused on sound, but instead on other parts of the game (hardware, art, code, etc...). In the game industry overall, sound is usually the last thing to focus on and gets the smallest budget & effort (exceptions exist)

Issue:

One of my trolls has almost stopped registering hits. Even smacking it pretty hard head on doesn't always register. Are there good instructions anywhere on how to adjust sensitivity?
Is this a common problem? Both trolls registered well out of the box, only recently this became a problem.

Solution:

It's a leaf blade switch. Two leafs. One on the troll face, one behind it. Gently tweak/bend the one behind it a tiny bit closer.

Issue:

Does anyone know how to turn the knocker off I can't seem to find it in the settings menu.

Solution:

I believe there's no option, you have to disconnect the wires to the knocker. It's loud, so I added a piece of foam to the area the knocker hits and it dampened the effect dramatically but it's still loud enough to be satisfying. I'd try that if the loudness of the knocker is your issue.

Remove the knocker fuse; it's F4 on the small circuit board located in the right front corner of the cabinet. This card also has a very nice enable LED that lights up whenever the CPU tells the knocker to fire.

Issue:

I'm having an issue with my MMR. The drawbridge will not go up/down.
Errors returned:
Check Drawbridge - Down switch bad
Check Drawbridge - Up switch bad
Well, from what I've gathered so far, it doesn't seem that when you turn the game on the actual motor works to cycle the drawbridge to test the switches.
I've been looking at the playfield board schematic....and I have determined I have no real idea what I'm looking at. But I have found that the wires from the motor go directly to a little board (Motor Control Board) in the lower left corner of the underside of the playfield. Then, from what I can tell, they appear to go up to the main playfield board and plug into PL9.
How do I go about testing this to see if power is actually getting to the Motor control board. The playfield schematic says (I think) there is a fuse somewhere for the motor, but I'm not exactly sure where.

Solution:
?

Issue:

Time and date not set error two times in the last two days. This was after replacing the battery a couple of months ago.

Solution:

Dedicated outlet fixed mine, no problems for over a year. I plugged it in on a line with four other machines the other day and got the date/time error within a week.

hmmm
maybe try upgrading the code again and see what happens?

nice. let us know if it helps.

Issue:
On May 4, 2017:
my game is an LE from July 2016. I haven't played the game in a few weeks, turned it on and got the error message about the date and time not being set. Hi scores and all settings remained. Was there ever a fix for this? is it because I haven't turned the game on in a little while?

Solution:
none

Issue:
On May 4, 2017
Mine just started happening last week as well for the first time. Happens every time I start up now. Apparently there is beta firmware that remedies this, I reached out to LLoyd and and told me to open a ticket.

Oh great.
So... I need to fill out a registration card and mail it in to open a ticket... but since I don't have one, not being the OG owner... I have to register online, so I can request that Chicago Gaming mails me a registration card, which I then have to mail back to them. Is this for F'ing real?
If anybody out there is reading this, and you have the firmware that fixes this, is there any way you can hook a brother up? A PM would be greatly appreciated!
Solution:
none

Issue:
May 4, 2017
Mine cleared up with the last code update but it also just happened again about a week ago. Not sure what the issue is.

Solution:
Doug from CGC says to install 2.0.2 firmware to solve this.

raw text content:
=====

FOR: Mac

1) This update will only work with a Class 10 microSD Card that is 8GB or larger. You will also need a microSD USB adapter and 8GB of free space on your computer's hard drive. These are available on Amazon.
For example:
Card Only: http://amzn.to/28Q7CjE
Adapter Only: http://amzn.to/2UlWv
Card and Adapter: http://amzn.to/28Sbjaz
2) Download the update file here: http://www.chicago-gaming.com/mmr/update2.0.1.
3) Get Extractor from the Mac App Store (Free App) to unzip the .7z file you just downloaded: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/extractor-unarchive-rar-zip/id971826370?mt=12
NOTE: If the Mac App store isn't your thing, you don't have an account, and you just want to grab a different app, any free zip unarchiver will work. You can try this if you want: http://the-unarchiver.en.softonic.com/mac
4) Launch Extractor and point it at MedievalMadness201Installer.7z; let it unzip the file; verify you're done when you see MedievalMadness201Installer.img on your desktop. Here is what Get Info looks like for the completed image:
5) Download ApplePi-Baker here: http://www.tweaking4all.com/?wpfb_dl=94
6) Launch ApplePi-Baker and enter your admin password; this is required each time you launch the app and is required for the install:
7) After you've entered your password, you're taken to the main screen. On the left side, in the Pi-Crust section, select the SD card that is inserted into your Mac:
8 ) On the right side, in the Pi-Ingredients section, tap the ... to open up the File Browser
9) Find the MedievalMadness201Installer.img and press Open:
10) Press "Restore Backup" to begin the process:
11) Wait a little bit... It will tell you how much time it has:
12) When it's done writing the SD card, it will let you know that it was successful and that you can remove the SD card:
13) With the game powered off, install the card in the controller board, behind the marquee translite. Power the game on, and you will see a message that the new version is installing.
14) When you see the following message, power off the game, remove the card, and power the game back on.

V2.0.1 RELEASE NOTES

This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Next generation graphics engine to support full color display upgrade and address previous screen tearing issue.
2) Addition of Castle Multiball jackpot voice call
3) Modifications to real time clock
4) Addition of adjustment for controlled playfield LEDs
5) Addition of adjustment for trough coil strength
6) Resolution of audio crackling issue

=====
FOR: Windows OS (if anyone has 1 of these any more)

1) This update will only work with a Class 10 microSD Card that is 8GB or larger. You will also need a microSD USB adapter and 8GB of free space on your computer's hard drive. These are available on Amazon.
For example:
Card Only: http://amzn.to/28Q7CjE
Adapter Only: http://amzn.to/2UlWv
Card and Adapter: http://amzn.to/28Sbjaz
2) Download the update file here: http://www.chicago-gaming.com/mmr/update2.0.2.
3) Unzip this file.
4) Download and install Win32 Disk Imager, which can be found here:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/.
5) Insert your microSD card into your computer.
6) Open Win32 Disk Imager, and under Device, select the microSD card you inserted. Be careful not to select an external hard drive or another device, or it will be overwritten.
7) Select the folder icon to open the Medieval Madness upgrade file.
8 ) Click "Write" to start writing to the card. This will take about 10 minutes. When complete, you will get a message "Write Successful". Close Win32 Disk Imager and remove the card.
9) With the game powered off, install the card in the controller board, behind the marquee translite. Power the game on, and you will see a message that the new version is installing.
10) When you see the following message, power off the game, remove the card, and power the game back on.

V2.0.1 RELEASE NOTES

This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Next generation graphics engine to support full color display upgrade and address previous screen tearing issue.
2) Addition of Castle Multiball jackpot voice call.
3) Modifications to real time clock.
4) Addition of adjustment for controlled playfield LEDs.
5) Addition of adjustment for trough coil strength.
6) Resolution of audio crackling issue.
V2.0.2 RELEASE NOTES

This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Fixed bug in OS causing date and time to reset.

bump... since i've been answering some questions in person lately...

hola, i'm away from pin at moment, but...
1. if coil is always getting triggered & getting full power:
...on some other pins, a saucer kickout and scoop kickout coil can have a grommet (in the coil bracket) that ages & falls out or just comes loose, and when the coil magnetizes, it attaches itself to the back of the steal bracket that holds the coil and prevents it from firing. If that's what the design under there looks like, running a tie-wrap through the grommet hole & clipping the excess tie-wrap keeps the coil from magnetically holding onto the bracket.

2. may need to check if switch is making full/persistent closed electrical connection so board knows to send power to coil to energize & fire during the required duration.