(Topic ID: 125358)

MMR NIB Repair Kit


By labnip

3 years ago



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29
#1 3 years ago

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ NIB MMR / LE Repair Kit Tips & Trix ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

▪ This thread tracks known MMR/LE NIB problems, repairs, owners, mods...
▪ Thanks in advance for helping each other out.


╒══════════════════════════════════════════════════════════╕
│                                                          │
│                     Table of Contents                    │
│                                                          │
├──────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┤
│                                                          │
│   A ∙  General Issues & Repairs…………………………………………………p. 1   │
│   B ∙  Sound Issues & Repairs………………………………………………………p. 1   │
│   C ∙  General Issues & Repairs (continued)…………………p. 2   │
│   D ∙  MMRLE Owners…………………………………………………………………………………p. 2   │
│   E ∙  Preventative Maintenance List……………………………………p. 2   │
│   F ∙  Confirmed MMR/LE Mods…………………………………………………………p. 3   │
│   G ∙  Where to play in the Wild………………………………………………p. 3   │
│   H ∙  MMRLE Shipping Forecast……………………………………………………p. 3   │
│   I ∙  Manufacturing News…………………………………………………………………p. 3   │
│   J ∙  General Issues & Repairs (continued)…………p. 4-13   │
│                                                          │
╘══════════════════════════════════════════════════════════╛
11
#2 3 years ago
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These are comments from other MMR owners across many threads. Tried to pull into one place.

-----
Documentation

1. MMRLE Manual = http://www.chicago-gaming.com/Brochures/MMR_Manual_Rev_1_2.pdf

-----

NIB faulty MMR wiring
Issue:
1. I setup my machine today, and when I went to play I noticed the left popper never fired, checked the opto in switch test and it tested out fine.
2. I also have a small paint chip on the side rail.

Solution:
1. Turns out the folks that assembled the machine had wired J4 into J3, and J3 into J4 on the solenoid driver 3 board. Once I swapped them around problem solved.
2. I'll open a ticket to see if there is any touch up paint available. Doug @ PPS is sending out touch-up paint. Opened a ticket.

-----

NIB No Power #1
Issue:
I received my MMr today and it was perfectly protected by the shipping box an looked awesome. I went through the standard set-up procedures, plus the only 2 'Cautions', which was remove the rubber band from the castle towers and snip the two zip-ties to under the PF for the 2 gremlins. Then, I put on the power cord, put the 4 balls inside and thought it was time to play it.
I turn the switch on and nothing happens. It is getting power because I checked another pin in the same power outlet. When I lift the PF I see several very small green LED's glowing but nothing else is on. No GI's. in the backbox, I can see one red glowing LED at the bottom of that small board.
I cannot start a game. So . . . what gives? Never had this to happen before. Is there some other trick I'm not aware of? Any help appreciated.

Solution:
Problem resolved! There were 3 or 4 connectors both in the backbox and head that had come loose. I talked with him on the phone and he hung me up real quick so he could slaghter-I mean... SAVE some peasants.
A warning to those waiting for their pins. When I first set mine up I had absolutely no power to it. (There is another thread on here explaining all this. (Look for "HELP!" if you wanna read it.) If this happens to you, go into the backbox and there is a very small board back there. Mine had 4 small connectors that were either not pushed all the way in or were just dangling down. After I got them all pushed in and seated correctly, the pin fired up!

-----

NIB No Power #2
Issue:
1. Mine is home. The packing was sub-optimal but it made it here in one piece. No setup instructions but no problem for me. Game was DOA on first power up (slam tilt switch closed).
2. Flippers were horribly misaligned.

Solution:
1. Wiggling the coin door harness IDC connector fixed it.
2. Fixed/adjusted flippers manually.

-----

NIB Loose power cord & No Power #3
Issue:
Did have the same problem as some other people with the power cord being real lose and the game not powering on

Solution:
Tighten all power cord connections in cabinet.

-----

NIB LCD Display art is shifted 20% to right & wraps
Issue:
Just got the game set up and have a display problem. The image is shifted 20% to the right and the right side of the image is displayed on the left side of the screen. Went though all the connectors, but not luck. With CG closed for the weekend any thoughts?

Solution:
1. (Attempt didn't work) Please check the LCD over to see if there are any controls on it.
If not, I'd try a factory reset next. And open a ticket on the help desk.

2. (Attempt didn't work) I went through the LCD controller menu last night and wasn't able to resolve the problem. This morning I detached the HDMI cable from the LCD and attached it to a computer monitor. It has the same problem. That eliminates everything but the main controller board from the loop. I don't see any type of control setting for the display on that board, so it may be a bad board. I suppose there is a small chance the cable could be an issue, but I don't have a mini HDMI to swap that with.

3. (Attempt was temporary) The small micro connector at the top of the beagle board failed on my game right out of box. The connector was flaky and I could only get the display to work after reseating the micro connector 15 to 20 times. Inserting it gently and slowly looking for the right spot for it to connect just right. Sometimes connection would hold for a day or so, then fail again with no data.

4. (final answer) The ultimate resolution is a new beagle board. Your support person should be a able to resolve.

mmr-lcd-shifted-1.jpg

-----
NIB 2 balls stuck in Catapult
Issue:
I unboxed my MMR yesterday and initiated extensive play testing. I LOVE the machine but as its destined to be put out on location it needs to be just about perfect before going out. It needs coin mechs too which are on the way.....lets not go there.
When playing it after about 35 games I got two balls into the catapult and the kicker wasn't strong enough to get them out. I took the glass off and cleared them and two games later it happened again. This would be fatal for operation of the machine on location if I had to drop by 2-4 times a week to clear stuck balls.
The obvious solution is to up the power on the kicker and I did that and it cleared balls in only the +1 setting. The problem I'm having now is that at any setting other than default power (and sometimes on default) the ball hits the flasher dome behind the castle and usually drops backwards down the left ramp and occasionally ends up in the moat.
I thought I'd consult the pinside hive mind before bending habitrails or adding deflectors. I tried to bend the end of the catapult habitrail down to aim the ball downward into the ramp but that thing is STIFF.
Has anyone encountered this issue on MMR or on an original MM? Any suggestions before I start bending things?

Solution:
There's a lock nut most of the way up the habitrail that has about an inch of adjustment in it. Moved the habitrail to the right and it's 100% on the ramp.
The solution was just to move the wirerail for the catapult over to the right a little bit...just loosen the screw about 1/2 way up, slide the wirerail over a bit and tighten the screw.
It now works perfectly.

-----

NIB Left Flipper stuck up
Issue:
Left flipper sticking up, the link was binding on the pawl.

Solution:
Had to disassemble and file the link and the hole for the bushing a little bit to free it up. Also the coil retaining bracket at the front of the coil was loose.

-----

NIB Right Flipper not aligned
Issue:
Right flipper wasn't aligned with the lane guide.

Solution:
Adjusted that while I had the playfield up. No biggie, I imagine they aligned the flipper with the hole in the PF instead of the lane guide.

-----

NIB Both flippers not aligned, Switch & Right Gate broken
Issue:
1. Both my flippers were bound up when I unboxed.
2. A switch on of the upper lanes didn't work.
3. The right gate did not work, it was stuck open.

Solution:
1. Manually realign flipper positions.
2. Manual repair.
3. Manual repair.

-----

NIB Both Flippers not aligned
Issue:
Had to adjust both mine higher. Mine were aligned higher than the marker pin holes on the field, but lower than parallel with the inlanes. They were at least aligned with each other - I just couldn't make a shot to save my life the way they were.

Solution:
Manually realign both flipper positions.

-----

NIB Ball not making it to shooter lane #1
Issue:
The ball stopped kicking out to the shooter lane after a couple games.

Solution:
Had to adjust the trough kick out deflector.

-----

NIB Ball not making it to shooter lane #2
Issue:
I'm having a problem with the ball eject on my MMR.
Every once in awhile it will get stuck trying to eject the ball into the shooter lane over and over as the ball doesn't quite make it. It can take up to 10-15 tries before it properly ejects.

Solution:
#1. First try adjusting the power the coil uses to kick the ball out. Weaker first, then stronger.

#2. Adjust the metal diverter at the top of the trough that knocks the ball back to the shooter lane. Use the empty ball test in the test menu. Let it try to kick out balls, open the door, tweak, close the coin door and try again. Keep going until you get it right. Be sure to test it with all balls in the trough, one ball, two balls, three. Do this to cover all the situations such as during multi-ball with fewer balls in the trough. Sometimes the weight or lack of weight from the other balls changes how they kick out of the trough and are fed to the lane.

#3. PM LTG.

-----

Catapult ball not making it out
Issue:
It was throwing the ball into the flasher and sometimes it would come back down the ramp.

Solution:
Had to adjust the catapult wireform.

-----

NIB Decal scrape
Issue:
There is a scrape to the decal at the lower left middle of the cabinet. It isn't big and it is just the decal and doesn't go into the black paint. It is the first thing I saw when I cut open the box.

Solution:
Paint ?

-----

NIB Upside down pages in Manual

Issue:
  Several pages in the manual are upside down.

Solution:
  For (i=0; i<Manual.numberOfPages; i++) {
    Turn to Manual.Pages[i].
    If (Manual.Pages[i].printedRotationStatus == UPSIDE_DOWN) {
      If (Manual.planarPosition != on flat horizontal surface) then {
        put manual on flat horizontal surface.
        }
        rotate manual 180 degrees on it's Y-axis.
      }
      read page.
    }

-----

Castle Drawbridge not all the way up
Issue:
Anyone have an issue with the drawbridge closing all the way? I have adjusted the push arms, and switches to push to the max for closing, but the "safety slot" they put in the push arm keeps the bridge from closing all the way. Is there supposed to be a spring or other helper to help it close? The only way I can see to fix it beyond what I have done is to reset the arm on the drawbridge itself, however the set screw would need to be moved further back and is blocked by the mounting assembly (i.e. either need to remove the entire assembly, or possibly the castle section to allow the door to swing further back). Can someone post a picture of their castle with door closed?

Solution:
It is supposed to be slightly down. Not 100% up.

-----

How to access Special Setting Menu?
Issue:
I was wondering how to access special settings menu.

Solution:
The four diagnostic buttons on the coin door. Please hold the "Escape" button down for 5 seconds or so.

-----

NIB Ball stuck behind Castle wall
Issue:
Sometimes, the ball enters the castle wall (the lock shot) but does not fall in the castle but stays stuck behind the wall. Is it a normal behavior ?

Solution:
Normal, no, unheard of, no. you might be able to slightly adjust the ball guides to avoid this. It only "normally" happens on a really slow entry to the castle that manages to unluckily settle there.
To prevent the ball from getting stuck behind the lock-shot flap/"wall" - you can add a small piece of foam weather stripping. This prevents the ball from having enough room between the lip and back of the door to get stuck.
I used this
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-3-4-in-x-7-16-in-x-10-ft-Black-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R734H/100047977
just cut off a small piece, 1" or so and it is self adhesive and stick to back of the lock-shot door.

-----

Merlin's Hole
Issue:
Anyone know a good ball dead drop foam alternative to use on Merlin's hole?
Pinbits is out.

Solution #1:
I have successfully used some of that gray foam you put around window sills to keep air locks out. It is soft and can easily be cut with scissors. I used some on my WOZ to keep the ball from bouncing out of the hole when the monkey drops it in the castle. it had some mild adhesive backing with a peel strip and i cut a small piece and put it in there and it deadens the ball perfectly. I have also used it in my Phantom of the Opera pin. The foam strips I have come on a small roll and are only about 1/2" thick. Maybe thinner . . .

Solution #2:
Based on some old MM threads - Merlin bounce-outs are a pain on the original, too... I put 2 washers between the scoop assembly & the playfield then screwed it back in. This lowers the assembly so the ball hits more of the curved part & is aimed downward more effectively. I have MUCH better success now, far less bounce-outs. To compensate for the ball being lower, I kicked up the popper power in the MMRLE CGC menu. Every so often it still takes a few pops to kick it out - but I prefer that to the bounce-outs.

-----
NIB Ball Eject problem
Issue:
Problem with ball ejecting into shooter lane.

Solution:
Bent ball trough to help ball ejects.
Bending the deflector back a little appears to have solved it. Lloyd was very responsive in helping to fix.

-----

NIB Credit Dot ERROR Right Troll Up #1
Issue:
MMRLE #0098. Bought it off a bud who needed $$$ for KISS LE. dated 3/13/15. I have spotted a Credit Dot ERROR for the "right troll up position" a few times.

Solution:
Temporary Solution: When I get back home from work and turn it on it goes away.

-----

NIB Credit Dot ERROR Right Troll Up #2
Issue:
NIB Credit dot already, the right troll up switch is broken.

Solution:
?

-----
NIB Ball stuck behind Right Troll
Issue:
Ball gets stuck behind the right Troll.

Solution:
Bent back angle piece of right troll.

-----

NIB Insensitive Right Troll
Issue:
The right troll is less sensitive than the left one, and needs to be hit harder to register the shot. Is it possible to adjust this troll ?

Solution:
Inside of that Troll is a leaf switch that can be adjusted closer to make it more sensitive to hits.

-----

NIB Right Troll not registering ball hits
Issue:
Just got LE game #201 NIB, the right troll is not registering hits

Solution:
Press the leaf switch by hand in test mode, see if it registers. If not, check the soldered wires on the switch, make sure they didn't come loose. Check to see if the wires from the switch are connected properly to where they're supposed to go.

-----
NIB Troll Cover is crooked
Issue:
A troll cover is crooked and leaves a gap between the cover and the hole

Solution:
?

-----

NIB Left Troll missing Screw & has Loose Screws
Issue:
1. Wood screw was missing from left Troll mount
2. The other 3 wood screws were very loose.

Solution:
1. Buy 1 screw & screw it in.
2. Tighten the other 3 screws.

-----

NIB Right Troll mis-wired by Stern
Issue:
Stern mis-wired the "up" and "hit" switches on the right troll.

Solution:
Opened a ticket with CGC about some switch issues on a new MMR.
Never received any response from them. Wound up fixing it ourselves.

-----

NIB Ball hitting back-left of castle
Issue:
Ball hits back left castle tower.

Solution:
Adjusted catapult rail.

-----

NIB Damaged during Shipping #1
Issue:
Ive got the delivery guy here and my MMR is damaged. do i reject the delivery?
Head is dinged up and lock down bar is fubar.
Okay, bought it through Jack, but it's pretty late in the day, so no one is answering over there. I refused it. Lock down was damaged pretty good, so I wasn't sure what else might have been underneath there. I paid way too much to have it already dinged up. The delivery guy was nice, but said, "This happens all the time!"

Solution:
Jack just returned my call, says he'll make it right.

-----

NIB Damaged during Shipping #2
Issue:
Sadly, she did not arrive unscathed after all. Bottom of the backbox had some serious separation and wood splintering. It did turn on and play, yay! The glass is hella tight until it gets about halfway down, but I didn't see any issues on the main cab. Somewhere along the route, she took one hell of hit..... and almost walked away.
The driver and I popped the top, I looked in and didn't see any broken glass, and where there were holes in the box, I didn't see any penetration into the cab. Where the backbox was broken, there were no marks on the cardboard.

Solution:
JJ's already working on the shipper claim for me. Big shoutout to JJ and GEX for getting this to me and being responsive way way after hours last night on this!

-----

NIB Damaged during Shipping #3
Issue:
I opened mine on Friday during an "opening" party. Not one single problem (except some shipping damage).
Shipping packaging was a joke. It may have been better to not even put the game in a box.

Solution:
I got this from JJP. Jen is working on a shipping damage claim for me - great customer service.

-----

NIB Damsel animation blackout + game crash
Issue:
1. Two of these came on route around my area, and both flippers seemed to be pointed down a bit.
2. Big question though is that on one of them, the damsel ramp is having issues. We were playing it and shot into the damsel window caused the screen to black out. The display came back and said that damsel madness was lit, but the inserts were still lit up for the ramp. I hit the ramp again and the screen went dark again, almost like the game couldn't find the damsel animation.
Finally, hit the shot again and the game bricked. It froze on the dark screen, which actually said that there was a hardware error.
Any of you guys see this or know if the problem is software or hardware?

Solutions:
1. manually correct rotation of flippers. Consistent problem it seems from lack of Manufacturing QA.
2. ?

-----

Damsel window broken
Issue:
Bar owner of a newly set up MMR says after some play that now a part of the Damsel window is broken I believe. This is the same machine with the Damsel animation blackout + game crash (above).

Solution:
?

-----

NIB Flasher Board defective
Issue:
One of the flasher boards was defective.

Solution:
Chicago Gaming sent me a new one, and it works perfectly now.

-----
NIB Ball guide sends ball to top of flipper
Issue:
I want to tweak the ball guide that returns the ball to the right flipper from an orbit shot - it's sending the ball to the tip of the flipper but I think it should go more to the middle to set up a combo shot.

Solution:
Adjust ball guide.

-----

NIB Opto not 100% functional
Issue:
So far this pin looks great except for one flakey opto.

Solution:
?

-----

NIB Collection of issues for 1 owner #1
1. Right flipper needed adjustment
2. Ball trough eject NOT kicking out 100% of the time
3. Flipper strength wayyy too powerful, now set to -1
4. Catapult not able to clear 2 balls. Adjusted habitrail and set catapult strength to +1
5. Small dent in cabinet side art, need to request touch up kit I guess.
6. Small area of black paint scratched off from corner of coin door. I'll touch up with paint marker.

-----

NIB Collection of issues for 1 owner #2
1. Ball eject didn't always work - fixed by bending diverter back a little.
2. Shaker motor doesn't work - waiting on replacement power board.
3. Left front castle tower is getting stuck on larger tower and not returning to position (need to adjust).
4. Moat VUK (vertical up-kick) is starting to act up (probably just needs a little adjustment).

-----

NIB LCD Display too Bright
Issue:
Brightness on lcd display is a little too bright, would like to turn it down to reduce some light bleeding from the corners. Manual talks about adjusting / changing colors, but didn't see anything that mentioned overall brightness.

Solution:
?

-----

NIB Castle Moat ball eject is Stuck
Issue:
Ball gets stuck ejecting from castle/moat.

Solution:
Will try to bend flap a bit, it looks hard to get in there under the ramp though.
One of the sheathed wires was caught between the eject and the ramp. Removed the 2 screws at bottom of ramp exit, removed the 2 screws at the top of the ramp exit, this gave me just enough play to lift the ramp slightly move the wires behind the eject scoop and under the ramp completely. No more stuck balls!!! (see pic later on page 1 of this thread)

-----

NIB Shaker is Broken
Issue:
My shaker is also not working.

Solutions:
just opened a ticket.

-----
NIB Shaker will Not Stop
Issue:
About 3 or 4 games in, the shaker started shaking... and shaking... and shaking faster.... would not stop! Could smell that distinct electrical burning smell. I turned game off at power switch. Waited a bit, turned game back on, as soon as power on, shaker started up and started accelerating, even during boot up sequence. Problem could be a short in the game or a shorted transistor?

Solution:
Temp Solution: Turned game off, disconnected shaker. Went into menu, turned shaker option off. Reconnected shaker, shaker starts up again. Disconnected shaker for the time being. Would love to hear advice on this one. Should I open a ticket?
Perm Solution: Yes, open Ticket.

-----

NIB Customer Setup Challenges
1. No unboxing instructions, maybe I just missed it.. But I had to search Google for the MMR manual.
2. Legs bolts INSIDE the coin door. Would have made setup a lot easier to keep the strap on the head.
3. No goody bag.

-----

NIB Prevents installing Coin Mechs
Issue:
You can't install coin mechs with the NIB wiring bundle in the way.

Solution:
I installed two coin mechs (from PPS) last night & my game is now on location (see picx below in thread). The 1st one is as the game was delivered with a bundle of wires going to the buttons and coin switches routed right across the middle of the door. After lots of cut wire ties and using up as much slack as I could I was able to get it to work and the result is in the second pic which looks like ass. I already had my first service call this morning because a loose wire was interfering with the left coin mech but I think I have it out of the way now.
I hope I'm going to be able to shoe horn a DBA into the thing as basically the coin door wiring was rigged for HUO. Understandable when 95% or more of these things are headed straight to private game rooms but frustrating to us collectors that are venturing back into the world of operating pinballs on location.

-----

NIB Rail Damaged
Issue:
Mine has a nick in the rail too (looks like it probably happened pre-shipping as if someone just smacked the lockbar down, but small enough I'm not sure it is worth fixing.
Solution:
?

-----

NIB Side Rails are Tight & easily damaged
Issue:
I will say the side rails on mine are TIGHT. The glass is pretty hard to get out, and really hard to put back in (if you don't align it just right, the glass will dig into the plastic liner in the rail, and get stuck as it puts an actual ding in the plastic).

Solution:
I have to be super careful to push the glass in evenly, or it will stick every time.

-----

NIB Speaker Plastic tough to position
Issue:
The speaker plastic is hard to get situated.

Solution:
Be careful when putting it in to be sure that:
1) it is seated and locked at the top (otherwise your backglass will bow out and could potentially fall out, &
2) you push it down and carefully put the backglass back in. Mine rubbed a ton the first few times I had it open, and judging from the marks on it, came that way from the factory. It may be something that loosens up with time, but figured I would mention it here in case others have the same issue.

-----
Side Mirrors Installation Support
Issue:
Be prepared for some work if you want to install mirror blades. The hinge nuts on my machine were torqued so hard into the cabinet that the ends flared.

Solution:
I had to use a long bolt and mallet to hammer them out and install replacement nuts.
The fit of the blades is also extremely tight on my cabinet. Beware of scratching when lifting playfield.

-----

Powering Laseriffic Topper
Issue:
How do you rig the cool Laseriffic topper to the MMR power supply?

Solution:
This is how I attached the Laseriffic topper to the power supply:
I removed the plastic cover from the power supply in the right front, by the coin door.
Attach the black lead to the ground lug (third from left when looking from the front).
Attach the red lug to the lug that is second from the right side.
Robert
MMR-powersupply-topper-1.jpg

-----

Merlin Gate missing Lock Nut
Issue:
I noticed that the Merlin gate bracket is missing a lock nut.

Solution:
buy & install 1.

-----

Right Ramp wood screws in wrong spots
Issue:

Also, the flat head wood screws on the right ramp aren't in the proper, pre-dimpled location.
The 2 wood screws are just a little to the left of the original markings...that's odd.

Solution:
?

-----

NIB Dust on Box
Issue:
#116 landed from JJP in NC on Friday.
Seems its been done for a while build date is 3-26-15.
Judging from the dust on top of the box it had been boxed for a while.

Solution:
Dust off box

-----

Playfield lights too bright
Issue:
Are the playfield inserts very hard to read for your MMR when they are lighted? I just received mine yesterday and was taken back by the inability to clearly read the lettering on the plastic playfield inserts. At first glance I thought that it must be the led boards that are too bright but it almost looks like the lettering is to light of a black and that it's being washed out by the leds.
I'm wondering if everyone else's are the same? Thanks
I tried taking some pictures and the only shot that comes close is the bottom insert in this picture and even this looks better than in person. The clear inserts seem to be the worst but almost all of them can not be read when they are on. I've adjusted the brightness on all levels but that doesn't help.

Solution:
1. Open a ticket with CGC and see what they say.
2. You can probably get some insert decals to cover that up or send the playfield out and have it restored.
3. http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=GS-4032&Product_Code=PPA-MM-INS-LM

mmr-playfieldlights-1.jpg

#3 3 years ago
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▓▓   (    (   (  ( (( ≈SOUND≈ )) )  )   )    )    ▓▓
▓▓ ♫                                            ♪ ▓▓
▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓

-----

NIB Dead Speaker
Issue: Purchased NIB, it came with a bum speaker out of box.

Solution:
Submitted ticket & they sent a free replacement speaker.

-----
NIB Audio sound lacks range
Issue:
I'm kind of disappointed with the high end of the audio. It is rather dull. The original game had one full range speaker in the back and one tweeter if I'm not mistaken. Without the tweeter the sound lacks range.

Solution:
I'll probably look into a different speaker, probably coaxial, to help things out.
I'm guessing it's wired fine, but just shitty speakers.

-----

Translite brightness causes audio Buzz
Issue:
I found that when I dimmed the translite illumination, I got kind of a hum/buzz from the speakers. The noise changed as you changed the intensity level.

Solution:
At full brightness there was basically no hum. I then moved the cables as has been suggested and I think it got a lot fainter.

-----

NIB Audio Crackle Noises
Issue:
I too have audio crackle. It was the first thing I noticed out of the box.
I will attempt to get a recording.
Starts when the boot up sound happens and is more apparent when audio is playing.
Seems to go away after a while (or my brain compensates).
I have reseated the connector without success.

Solution:
?

-----
NIB Distorted Boot-up Bong
Issue:
Now that I've had a few weeks to play it and have hooked it up to a sub, I'm pretty happy with the sound. The voices are crystal clear and uncompressed. The sub has given an "oomph" to the game. The only thing that still kinda bugs me is the "bong" sound when it turns on...it still sounds distorted compared to a real B/W game...but the sound once you start doesn't have any distortion.

Solution:
Maybe they can improve the "bong" in an update.

-----

NIB Voice overs & Call outs hard to hear
Issue:
The voice over and call outs are really hard to hear at almost any volume level. The sound effects completely drown them out. Its a real disappointment. I love in games like Tron where you can change the volume of the sound effects to fix this issue. Anyways, are there any recommendations to fix that? New speakers?

Solution:
?

-----

NIB Castle Bosses sound is Low
Issue:
The voice levels of the castle bosses are a bit low. They're there and clear, but often get drowned out by music and sound FX.

Solution:
?

-----

NIB Muffled Sound
Issue:
The sound was a little rough sounding, maybe even muffled. I called another friend who has one and told me his was the same.

Solution:
?

-----

NIB Volume too High
Issue:
NIB Volume was too high so had to enable the minimum volume setting.

Solution:
Now on Volume level 5.

-----

NIB Popping Noise after MMR is on for many hours
Issue:
Its been on for 3 days straight as a burn in and I've started noticing noise/popping sounds in the audio. Its possible they were there from the beginning but I don't remember them. There are deterministic and repeatable and to be honest, pretty annoying. This machine is destined for a location so its not a show stopper but I thought I'd check for a cause/solution before I popped the hood and started poking around.
LTG chimed in on the PPS forum recommending re-seating sound connectors and that worked. Specifically the speaker connector on the lower right of the controller board in the backbox.
Well darn, re-seating that connector made the sound go away for a day but its back and last night I had a 2-3 second burst of pure static in the middle of a game.
The static burst was a single event but there's regular and repeatable popping and crackling sounds that I should be able to catch.

Solution:
OK, the video didn't capture the noise but I did move the sound wires out of the cable bundle for the first 10 inches or so and That seems to have fixed it. I had to cut some cable ties but no biggie. This picture shows the sound wires after I popped them out of the first clamp and before I started cutting cable ties.
Sounds like EMF leakage from one of the data lines or the CPU. Happens through inductance as the audio cables pick up these fields and send them to the amp. I would install a ferrite core on the audio cable to deflect this noise.
I had the exact same problem, it seemed to only happen after the machine is on running for 10 hours straight or more. I ended up removing the speaker wires from the cable bundle entirely and adding 2 clip on ferrite cores. I haven't seen the issue again but need to test further.
Well damn, after a day being on it came back, albeit in a much smaller way and barely noticeable. Ferrite cores on order from Mouser.
MMRLE-sound-issue-1.jpg

-----

Some sound segments' Volume are wrong

Issue:
I just played one for the first time, and noticed that the sound volume for 1 of the tracks is wrong a few times, most noticeable during hurry-up collect.

We all know the sound on WPCs is made up of multiple channels, some used for background music, some used for voices, some used for effects. When the hurry-up is happening, hurry-up music is playing in one channel. When the collect happens, three things are supposed to happen at the same time. The music channel volume is lowered all the way, the regular music starts playing inaudibly in that channel (instead of the hurry-up music), and the fanfare plays audibly in a separate channel. After the fanfare completes and a half-second of silence, the volume on the music channel is raised to normal volume, joining the regular music loop already a couple seconds in progress.

On the original MM, when the fanfare is playing, the music is inaudible. The end of the fanfare has a natural ending, leading to a half-second of silence (except for the drawbridge effect) when it completes. When the music turns back on, it's actually several seconds in to the music loop. See:

On the MMR, the music channel volume is incorrectly not lowered at all, and the music plays at full volume from the beginning at the same time as the fanfare. See:

In the second video, the regular music should not be heard playing until about 4:06.5, to line up both with the timing of when the loop kicks in in the first video (at 0:59) and the expected silence after the fanfare. Instead, the music starts playing audibly immediately when the hurry-up is collected.
To duplicate this:
1) Start a game
2) Hold left button to engage super skill
3) Press launch
4) Shoot a super skill shot
5) Shoot castle

EXPECTED:
Music inaudible, fanfare plays, only sound at the natural end of the hurry-up fanfare is the drawbridge lowering sound effect.

ACTUAL:
Normal music clearly audible over fanfare at full volume.
This is just the most obvious and easy to reproduce example of this issue, but I believe I heard similar track volume problems while playing. Is this a known issue?

Also:
Pinball Arcade has the same bug, and it's annoyed me forever there:

Solution:
(Maybe) a bug in the emulation routine that both systems are using. The real DCS board gets it right.

#4 3 years ago

labnip. thank you for putting all of these issues and solutions in one thread! I think/hope it will help out new mmr owners

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

2 balls stuck in Catapult

#6 3 years ago

Good summary, thanks for doing this. Please add my MMR sound issue. (fixed now)

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-sound-issue

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

NIB faulty MMR wiring
Issue:
1. I setup my machine today, and when I went to play I noticed the left popper never fired, checked the opto in switch test and it tested out fine.
2. I also have a small paint chip on the side rail.
Solution:
1. Turns out the folks that assembled the machine had wired J4 into J3, and J3 into J4 on the solenoid driver 3 board. Once I swapped them around problem solved.
2. I'll open a ticket to see if there is any touch up paint available.
-----

Ball stuck behind Castle wall
Issue:
Sometimes, the ball enters the castle wall (the lock shot) but does not fall in the castle but stays stuck behind the wall. Is it a normal behavior ?
Solution:
Normal, no, unheard of, no. you might be able to slightly adjust the ball guides to avoid this. It only "normally" happens on a really slow entry to the castle that manages to unluckily settle there.

Just wanted to make 2 updates to the entries above.

2 - Doug @ PPS is sending out touch-up paint. Opened a ticket.

Ball stuck behind Castle wall - To prevent the ball from getting stuck behind the lock-shot flap/"wall" - you can add a small piece of foam weather stripping. This prevents the ball from having enough room between the lip and back of the door to get stuck.

I used this

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-3-4-in-x-7-16-in-x-10-ft-Black-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R734H/100047977

just cut off a small piece, 1" or so and it is self adhesive and stick to back of the lock-shot door.

#8 3 years ago

I had the same problem with balls sometimes not ejecting. Bending the deflector back a little appears to have solved it. Lloyd was very responsive in helping to fix.

My shaker is also not working and just opened a ticket.

It's frustrating to deal with this type of stuff on a NIB but overall the machine is beautiful and plays fantastic.

#10 3 years ago

hi,

got the updates folded in.
thanks for the info.

#11 3 years ago

Thanks for starting this thread, here are the 3 (besides shipping) I currently have going. I'll rank this as low to high...
1) Brightness on lcd display is a little too bright, would like to turn it down to reduce some light bleeding from the corners. Manual talks about adjusting / changing colors, but didn't see anything that mentioned overall brightness. Love, love the display otherwise!

2) Ball gets stuck ejecting from castle/moat - will try to bend flap a bit, it looks hard to get in there under the ramp though...

3) About 3 or 4 games in, the shaker started shaking... and shaking... and shaking faster.... would not stop! Could smell that distinct electrical burning smell. I turned game off at power switch. Waited a bit, turned game back on, as soon as power on, shaker started up and started accelerating, even during boot up sequence. Turned game off, disconnected shaker. Went into menu, turned shaker option off. Reconnected shaker, shaker starts up again. Disconnected shaker for the time being. Would love to hear advice on this one. Should I open a ticket?

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from worldofglenn:

Should I open a ticket?

YES!!

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from worldofglenn:

Thanks for starting this thread, here are the 3 (besides shipping) I currently have going. I'll rank this as low to high...
1) Brightness on lcd display is a little too bright, would like to turn it down to reduce some light bleeding from the corners. Manual talks about adjusting / changing colors, but didn't see anything that mentioned overall brightness. Love, love the display otherwise!
2) Ball gets stuck ejecting from castle/moat - will try to bend flap a bit, it looks hard to get in there under the ramp though...
3) About 3 or 4 games in, the shaker started shaking... and shaking... and shaking faster.... would not stop! Could smell that distinct electrical burning smell. I turned game off at power switch. Waited a bit, turned game back on, as soon as power on, shaker started up and started accelerating, even during boot up sequence. Turned game off, disconnected shaker. Went into menu, turned shaker option off. Reconnected shaker, shaker starts up again. Disconnected shaker for the time being. Would love to hear advice on this one. Should I open a ticket?

#3 sounds like a short in the game or shorted transistor...definitely contact the ticket people since it is a new game

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from worldofglenn:

Thanks for starting this thread, here are the 3 (besides shipping) I currently have going. I'll rank this as low to high...
1) Brightness on lcd display is a little too bright, would like to turn it down to reduce some light bleeding from the corners. Manual talks about adjusting / changing colors, but didn't see anything that mentioned overall brightness. Love, love the display otherwise!
2) Ball gets stuck ejecting from castle/moat - will try to bend flap a bit, it looks hard to get in there under the ramp though...
3) About 3 or 4 games in, the shaker started shaking... and shaking... and shaking faster.... would not stop! Could smell that distinct electrical burning smell. I turned game off at power switch. Waited a bit, turned game back on, as soon as power on, shaker started up and started accelerating, even during boot up sequence. Turned game off, disconnected shaker. Went into menu, turned shaker option off. Reconnected shaker, shaker starts up again. Disconnected shaker for the time being. Would love to hear advice on this one. Should I open a ticket?

Open a ticket and post it on the PPS forum MMr Support

#15 3 years ago

NIB Audio sound lacks range

I just want to comment on this one, as it's the first thing I noticed. At first I wondered if something was wrong with my speakers or amps on the board....so as an experiment I hooked up an old bookshelf speaker - and it sounded pretty damn good. I was talking to Stangbat about it - and his thought was that CGC used 2 regular speakers instead of the old B/W speaker & tweeter (with capacitor) setup, and that's what was making the sound flat and highs dull.

I have a spare set of B/W speakers that I'm going to install when I have time to see if that helps (I'm guessing it will)

I wonder why CGC made this choice with the speakers...I can't imagine the B/W speaker setup has a price difference.

Solution: I hope CGC changes the speakers for future batches & sends a replacement kit to us earlies.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from Wickerman2:

2) Ball gets stuck ejecting from castle/moat - will try to bend flap a bit, it looks hard to get in there under the ramp though...

#2 is fixed. One of the sheathed wires was caught between the eject and the ramp. Removed the 2 screws at bottom of ramp exit, removed the 2 screws at the top of the ramp exit, this gave me just enough play to lift the ramp slightly move the wires behind the eject scoop and under the ramp completely. No more stuck balls!!!

mmr stuck fix.jpg
#17 3 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

NIB Audio sound lacks range
I just want to comment on this one, as it's the first thing I noticed. At first I wondered if something was wrong with my speakers or amps on the board....so as an experiment I hooked up an old bookshelf speaker - and it sounded pretty damn good. I was talking to Stangbat about it - and his thought was that CGC used 2 regular speakers instead of the old B/W speaker & tweeter (with capacitor) setup, and that's what was making the sound flat and highs dull.
I have a spare set of B/W speakers that I'm going to install when I have time to see if that helps (I'm guessing it will)
I wonder why CGC made this choice with the speakers...I can't imagine the B/W speaker setup has a price difference.
Solution: I hope CGC changes the speakers for future batches & sends a replacement kit to us earlies.

It was told that the games at Expo had one or both speakers wired backwards. Maybe that is the case on your game?

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from viper001:

It was told that the games at Expo had one or both speakers wired backwards. Maybe that is the case on your game?

That's weird, I thought they sounded rich and bassy at Expo, even with the loudness of the room.

It's possible I suppose....but just at a glance the color-striped wires are on the + and the black wires are on the - ...I'll have to check the board schematic to see if they're going to the right place.

I'm guessing it's wired fine, but just shitty speakers.

Anyone else with MMr care to comment about the sound? I noticed right off the bat that the "bong" upon startup sounded off.

#19 3 years ago

Great job labnip...congrats on the new game

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Great job labnip...congrats on the new game

i ordered a "black" trim. still waiting......

#21 3 years ago

I would also like to thank you for this thread. You guys paid how much for this game, and all these problems right out of the box?

I'll stick to boring old EMs, thanks.

#22 3 years ago

My only problem with MMR is that I don't own a MMR...

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

I would also like to thank you for this thread. You guys paid how much for this game, and all these problems right out of the box?
I'll stick to boring old EMs, thanks.

Eh, that's NIB pinball...whatcha gonna do. Despite a few hickups and tweaks, it looks and plays beautifully. Holy moly with the perfectly smooth cleared playfield and brand new everything - those ramp and orbit shots blaze at lightning speed.

-1
#24 3 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

I would also like to thank you for this thread. You guys paid how much for this game, and all these problems right out of the box?
I'll stick to boring old EMs, thanks.

I had to make a few tweaks to my NIB Tron.
the spinning rubber disc came right off after like 2 plays and several bulbs just fell right out.
...also, it came with 2 head-shots of Jeff Bridges (ewww) on the translite instead of the 2 hot Tron chix

#25 3 years ago

My thoughts on the sound. The audio for these games was designed, mixed, and tested using a 5-1/4 mid-range speaker and a tweeter in the backbox. MMr comes with two 5-1/4" mid-range speakers in the backbox. When you eliminate the tweeter, you lose the highs. The two 5-1/4 mid-range speakers throw off the balance and the voices stand out much more. If you remove one 5-1/4" speaker and install a tweeter, things fall in line the way they were with the original.

I'm not saying that with the tweeter the game sounds as good as WPC DCS sound, something is still a little off. But it sounds better than as it came from the factory in my opinion. I'd like to hear what others think after some testing and playing around. Audio is so subjective, two people can listen to the same thing and hear completely different things. So I welcome more input.

#26 3 years ago

hmm... so wonder if someone's going to put a new audio kit out for MMR ?

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

hmm... so wonder if someone's going to put a new audio kit out for MMR ?

Oh I'm sure Flipper Fidelity is on it....I hope lol

#28 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

This thread is to track all the known MMR/LE NIB problems & repairs.
Thanks in advance for helping each other out.

PPS should send you a $500 gift card for all your dedicated work.

#29 3 years ago

ha...

will work for coin mechs

#30 3 years ago

wow labnip that post was well timed..... SPEAKING OF COIN MECHS......I installed two coin mechs (from PPS) last night and my game is now on location. look at the pics below. The first one is as the game was delivered with a bundle of wires going to the buttons and coin switches routed right across the middle of the door. Basically you can't install coin mechs with this wiring bundle in the way. After lots of cut wire ties and using up as much slack as I could I was able to get it to work and the result is in the second pic which looks like ass. I already had my first service call this morning because a loose wire was interfering with the left coin mech but I think I have it out of the way now.

I hope I'm going to be able to shoe horn a DBA into the thing as basically the coin door wiring was rigged for HUO. Understandable when 95% or more of these things are headed straight to private game rooms but frustrating to us collectors that are venturing back into the world of operating pinballs on location.

IMG_20150423_155422.jpg IMG_20150423_161116.jpg
#31 3 years ago
Quoted from sandersj:

SPEAKING OF COIN MECHS

Mine is going on location too. I took a quick look at the door but not close enough to notice any issues with the wiring. Thanks for the heads up.

#32 3 years ago

Also, while I was at it I moved the back box key hook over to a screw by the slam tilt switch for easier access. It came installed over by the DBA knockouts and once the DBA gets installed it would have been a bitch to get to.

Be advised, I'm not trying to dis the machine, its AMAZING, but as a community we all need to come together and figure out all these little bugs so PPS can be successful and remake another classic. Hence, this thread......

#33 3 years ago

Great idea Labnip. You have probably saved PPS a lot of grief and started a thread that will last the owners for years of fixing minor problems.

#34 3 years ago

I find it disgusting that PPS pretty much concocted a story about why they were not including coin mechs. Proof is above.

#35 3 years ago

Machine is great, but I've had several minor issues:

-Ball eject didn't always work - fixed by bending diverter back a little
-Shaker motor doesn't work - waiting on replacement power board (thankfully rest of game works)
-Left front castle tower is getting stuck on larger tower and not returning to position (need to adjust)
-Moat VUK is starting to act up (probably just needs a little adjustment)

Not a repair, but be prepared for some work if you want to install mirror blades. The hinge nuts on my machine were torqued so hard into the cabinet that the ends flared. I had to use a long bolt and mallet to hammer them out and install replacement nuts. The fit of the blades is also extremely tight on my cabinet.

#36 3 years ago

labnip,

Thanks for starting a dedicated post for the MMr,

I'm sure lots of people will benefit from this.

#37 3 years ago
Quoted from TVP:

PPS should send you a $500 gift card for all your dedicated work.

Or at least a couple of coin mechs ...

(Looks like someone beat me to the punchline)

#38 3 years ago

can anyone else reproduce this new item ?

Issue:
2 of these came on route around my area, and both flippers seemed to be pointed down a bit.
Big question though is that on one of them, the damsel ramp is having issues. We were playing it and shot into the damsel window caused the screen to black out. The display came back and said that damsel madness was lit, but the inserts were still lit up for the ramp. I hit the ramp again and the screen went dark again, almost like the game couldn't find the damsel animation.
Finally, hit the shot again and the game bricked. It froze on the dark screen, which actually said that there was a hardware error.
Any of you guys see this or know if the problem is software or hardware?

#39 3 years ago
Quoted from labnip:

can anyone else reproduce this new item ?
Issue:
2 of these came on route around my area, and both flippers seemed to be pointed down a bit.
Big question though is that on one of them, the damsel ramp is having issues. We were playing it and shot into the damsel window caused the screen to black out. The display came back and said that damsel madness was lit, but the inserts were still lit up for the ramp. I hit the ramp again and the screen went dark again, almost like the game couldn't find the damsel animation.
Finally, hit the shot again and the game bricked. It froze on the dark screen, which actually said that there was a hardware error.
Any of you guys see this or know if the problem is software or hardware?

Weird. I've been playing all weekend, saving damsels and that never happened.

The flippers were pointed down a touch, though...easy fix.

#40 3 years ago

Flippers were definitely not lined up with the lane; easy enough to adjust though.

#41 3 years ago

Here's what I had with mine after unboxing.

1. Right flipper needed adjustment
2. Ball trough eject not kicking out 100%
3. Flipper strength wayyy too powerful, now set to -1
4. Catapult not able to clear 2 balls. Adjusted habitrail and set catapult strength to +1
5. Small dent in cabinet side art, need to request touch up kit I guess...
6. Small area of black paint scratched off from corner of coin door. Il just touch up with paint marker

Other annoying things
1. No unboxing instructions, maybe I just missed it.. But I had to search Google for the MMr manual.
2. Legs bolts INSIDE the coin door. Would have made setup a lot easier to keep the strap on the head
3. No goody bag, oh well

Other then that, it is extremely awesome!

#42 3 years ago

"Other than that, how was the play Mrs. Lincoln". (lots of issues too but loving my MMR)

#43 3 years ago

This may not qualify as a NIB problem but since it happened after about 200 games I thought I'd add it to the pot. This is the castle switch which shook loose after a few days on location. Game on location thursday, this rattled loose saturday night. Simple fix for something in a serious shock and vibration environment.

IMG_20150426_093039.jpg
#44 3 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

NIB Audio sound lacks range
I just want to comment on this one, as it's the first thing I noticed. At first I wondered if something was wrong with my speakers or amps on the board....so as an experiment I hooked up an old bookshelf speaker - and it sounded pretty damn good. I was talking to Stangbat about it - and his thought was that CGC used 2 regular speakers instead of the old B/W speaker & tweeter (with capacitor) setup, and that's what was making the sound flat and highs dull.
I have a spare set of B/W speakers that I'm going to install when I have time to see if that helps (I'm guessing it will)
I wonder why CGC made this choice with the speakers...I can't imagine the B/W speaker setup has a price difference.
Solution: I hope CGC changes the speakers for future batches & sends a replacement kit to us earlies.

i thought one of the new features was "better " sound?

#45 3 years ago
Quoted from jackofdiamonds:

i thought one of the new features was "better " sound?

Well - it technically does. I think what it's outputting is better. The voices are crystal clear. It's just the speakers they chose to use make the audio a little flat. I've hooked it up to an external sub and that sounds awesome. I'm going to try some new backbox speakers and it should make it awesome.

I also think some of the voice levels are a bit too low - the castle bosses and joust voices tend to get drowned out a bit. I posted it about it on the PPS forum and it's something CGC will work on for the software update. Possible a setting that allows the user to adjust the music/voice levels independently. Id be happy with that option.

-1
#46 3 years ago

consolidated to top posts.

#47 3 years ago

Re: NIB LCD Display too Bright

It looks like Flake discovered that there are adjustments on the display itself (independent of the adjustments provided by the game platform)

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-unboxings/page/12#post-2375103

Perhaps they can adjust the LCD brightness?

#48 3 years ago

NIB Shaker is Broken
Issue:
My shaker is also not working.

Solutions:
just opened a ticket.
So after 1 month and receiving a new power board my NIB which never had a working shaker now works by replacing that bad board. Earlier replaced shaker but did not fix the problem.
So thats the end of that and seemed at least to me to take way to long to get replacement parts but happy to have it over with.

#49 3 years ago

So the flakey opto was sw37- means the gate never goes up and hence the castle never explodes. Working to get things fixed, but of course it would be the one opto that you have to take the castle down, the moat down and the draw bridge out to be able to access. And then the wires run through a plate so you have to solder them on site or re pin them.
But not quite the same game without the castle effects.

#50 3 years ago

Running into a bug with the trolls during troll multiball madness. Only the left troll comes up and after it is knocked down once, nothing. Both trolls stay down. Normal operation would be for the trolls to alternate after each hit. During normal troll mode, game is functioning fine, both trolls come up and drop after three hits apiece. Also, during the same multiball madness, merlin hole does not clear any balls. After last ball drains, game goes into a ball search and then kicks the ball out of the merlin hole. Both right troll and merlin hole switch operating fine otherwise.

This MMR is running the V2 Pic chip on the main board under the playfield. Anyone else run into this bug yet?

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