(Topic ID: 201309)

MM G10 error

By WesleyCowan

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by GKW
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 6 years ago

I was playing my Medieval Madness yesterday when it suddenly reset. When it came back on after going through the test mode it gave a G10 error. It does that now whenever I turn the machine on and won't start a game. I looked at the boards and noticed that Led 202 flashes and 203 flashes, but 201 doesn't at all. These are on the same board as the G10 eprom. I don't know if 201 should light up when turning the game on? Also on another board fuses 108 that involves solenoids and fuse 106 related to lights were quite blown.

The only work I did today was cleaning the playfield and ramps and installing a hole protector for the Merlin hole. I also soldered one wire for the ejects balls from the Merlin hall. I did solder with the game off and same with the other work I mentioned. I was careful and didn't drip solder onto the game anywhere. I've gone back over the solder job and there's no evidence of a short or other obvious thing I did incorrectly.

I know G10 chip will cost around $50 and when it arrives I don't want to install it and have it blow if there might be a short or other problem that might have destroyed the current G10. That is if the current one is indeed damaged.

Ideas, please on possible fixes for this. Thank you!

#2 6 years ago

I'd try and make sure the chip is pushed in all the way.

#3 6 years ago

In this thread the suggestion is check the switch matrix connector (J206 according to the MM manual) for voltage that shouldn't be there.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-blowing-cpu-board-chips

#4 6 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

In this thread the suggestion is check the switch matrix connector (J206 according to the MM manual) for voltage that shouldn't be there.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-blowing-cpu-board-chips

In turning the game on just now I got the following error message that popped up on the dmd ground short row 3 white-orange r3.

#5 6 years ago

Can you post a picture of the MPU board?

Quoted from WesleyCowan:

I also soldered one wire for the ejects balls from the Merlin hall.

You soldered the wire to the correct spot on the switch?

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Can you post a picture of the MPU board?

You soldered the wire to the correct spot on the switch?

Yes I'm sure I did.

#7 6 years ago

Nothing I've tried has helped so have a tech coming out on Tuesday. I'll let you know what he finds.

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Can you post a picture of the MPU board?

#10 6 years ago

There's nothing obviously blown, acid damage or anything else that's that detailed scans by my wife or me show anything.

#11 6 years ago

Hi,

For the LEDs on the WPC-95 CPU board:

  1. J202 is the power LED, and should always be on.
  2. J201 is the Blanking indicator, it should light up briefly for power up, then stay off afterwards.
  3. J203 is the DIAG indicator. After switching on, it should flash regularly, indicating the activity of the CPU. If it remains fixed on or off, is that the CPU does not run. But this is not the case, otherwise no message could be displayed.

The message "G10 error" indicates that the CPU no longer communicates with the SECURITY PIC. The cause may be a toasted circuit, the G10 itself or one of its peripherals U14, U24, U13, U23 or U5.

It is rare that a bad manipulation on the matrix, burn one of them, even if one can not exclude it.
The ideal would be to mount the SECURITY PIC on another working WPC95 board, with the same EPROM to see if it is this chip who is involved.

But, a more common problem is the socket of the ASIC. Indeed, the CPU accesses the SECURITY PIC via the ASIC and if the contacts are not clean this can cause a malfunction. Most of the time, there are bad contacts on the ASIC socket. This is not surprising for a pinball machine who is twenty years old.

An operation that sometimes, works miracles, is to extract the ASIC with the appropriate tool (the socket is a PLCC). Then to pass gently, abrasive gum on the pins of the chip. With a thin needle, outspread the contacts of the plastic socket. Then, reinsert the ASIC (take care of the position).

I had two cards that had startup problems, and the LEDs were flashing oddly. After cleaning and redoing the ASIC contacts, it worked perfectly.
May be, it not solve the problem of "G10 error", but it will improve the operation of the board.

#12 6 years ago

I ran into this once with a friend's MM and it ended up being a bad socket that the security PIC was in. Once I changed that out, never had a problem with this error again.

#13 6 years ago

I forgot to mention, this is a Rottendog board not the original board.

#14 6 years ago

In that case, since the security chip was transferred over, remove it and check for a broken or bent pin.

#15 6 years ago

Had a tech come out yesterday but he couldn't find the problem and MM is still not working.

#16 6 years ago

Hey Wes, did you pull out the ASIC. If not pull it and check the ASIC socket with a magnifying glass to see if it is cracked. If it's not showing any cracks push the chip back in and look again. I had one of those Rottendog CPU boards with a cracked ASIC socket that gave me fits.

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Had a tech come out yesterday but he couldn't find the problem and MM is still not working.

Did the tech pull the ASIC? Do you have the tool to pull it yourself? https://duckduckgo.com/?q=plcc+chip+extractor&t=ffab&ia=products

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

In that case, since the security chip was transferred over, remove it and check for a broken or bent pin.

Has the security chip been checked?

#19 6 years ago

Put a different Rottendog board in and the display is fine.

Now have a different problem. The game won't start and in test mode states ground short row 4 yellow/white R4. When I run a test on individual switches, I get a row short message on the following switches: T3 14 (Plumb bob tilt), T3 24 (Always closed), T3 34 (trough ball 3), T3 44 (Castle lock), T3 54 (Bottom jet), T3 64 (R ramp exit), and T3 74 (left troll up). All of the switches have a white/yellow wire.

5 years later
#20 11 months ago

Can you post an update? I have similar problems with a SS, sporting a new Rottendog MPU. Maybe it used to belong to someone in this thread!

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