Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993i guess we'll start there. it was working a little bit. it wouldn't repopulate after i hit the ball during game play. now when i turn it on the magnet goes back and forth a few times, the gates open and close, but no ball is populated.
if i need to do something with the magnet test, i'll need a bit of a tutorial. i'm not sure what i'm supposed to be doing in there. the long throw opto worked in switch edge test, however.
It's good that the long throw opto works. What about the others? I think there's an opto on the left side ball pocket that tracks whether or not a ball is there. I'm not sure, off the top of my head, if there's one on the right as well. I'd check those to make sure they're working correctly, as well as check the rest of the switches in the game that track ball presence (locks, trough, etc..). It sounds a little bit like the game isn't sure if there's a ball there or not (or which side it's on). If the opto isn't working and it's stuck open, the machine would think there's a ball one side and try to move it to the other only to find that it just moved air and there's still no ball there. Also double check the trough because it should keep feeding a ball if there's too many in there. There could be more than one switch not doing its job.
That's the end of my wild stab. Good luck!
hmm. now my long opto isn't registering. i should be able to put my hand in the middle of the playfield for it to trigger, right? pretty sure that's what i did the other day. grrr.
the manual says it can be adjusted by sliding it to the front of the machine. not sure what that means.
i checked all the wires to make sure i didn't break anything when i was installing led's. everything looks fine. what should the opto board show underneath?
Here's some more detailed info on troubleshooting the mist magnet.
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/game-specific-toys/200-mist-multiball
receiver is working and transmitter looks purple on my camera.
where's the l1 inductor suppose to be?
Quoted from weaverj:receiver is working and transmitter looks purple on my camera.
where's the l1 inductor suppose to be?
The inductor is mounted on the mist ball opto driver board (24" opto board) which is under the playfield
L1 is at the bottom right of your picture - the round green "drum" looking part.
The very fine leads can break on this so have a close look at where it mounts on the PCB.
If one is broken you can chip away the green covering and solder to the broken wire. This works 50% of the time (if the lead is broken).
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:What is the part numbers for long range receiver opto, and transmitter"
These are standard IR parts. They are not special despite what some may think. The special tricks are done on the 24" opto board.
so if the transmitter looks purple with my camera, but the pin isn't seeing the beam, is it the board or transmitter?
Quoted from weaverj:so if the transmitter looks purple with my camera, but the pin isn't seeing the beam, is it the board or transmitter?
What you see is not a definitive answer to your problem - it only confirms that the IR LED is working in itself, nothing more.
This circuit is a lot more complex than it appears at first glance.
Follow the advice in the repair information linked earlier.
you mentioned putting leds in? if they are too bright near the right and left gate optos you may have them interfering possibly. i put electrical tape around those areas surrounding the optos, so that led lights do not impose on the optos. when you run your magnet test and it goes through the opto test, does it pass opto test 1? there are 3 opto tests. just trying another suggestion, sometimes it can be a simple problem, or not so much, as i had to have my opto board repaired by clive.
i don't think they're too bright. just flattop comets.
it doesn't get to opto test 1, since it never thinks it unloads the magnet.
i will try shading those areas a little better though. thanks for the suggestion. i appreciate all the help, guys.
Quoted from weaverj:i will try shading those areas a little better though
if i were you, i'd pull all the surround G.I. led bulbs in those areas, if it works then you know the leds are the problem. if it still doesn't work with the bulbs out, then it is board/opto related as Homepin has suggested.
this probably isn't helping anything:
my drain switch works, but the armature doesn't go back, so when the next ball drains it just sits on the armature. it may or may not be triggering that switch, probably not. even if it does, the arm doesn't go back to kick it up the trough.
what's that going to be? dirty coil sleeve? the quest continues...
Quoted from weaverj:this probably isn't helping anything:
my drain switch works, but the armature doesn't go back, so when the next ball drains it just sits on the armature. it may or may not be triggering that switch, probably not. even if it does, the arm doesn't go back to kick it up the trough.
what's that going to be? dirty coil sleeve? the quest continues...
Yep tear everything in trough apart and clean. I thought that bsd was supposed be awesome condition lol.... i believe it came from ssme place as the jy and if so im worried for u bc it was really bad lol.gl man
i'll be fine, i hope. i just get to fix everything that's been broke or needed maintenance for the last 5-10 years. i get to learn a lot at least.
the post assembly that the arm pivots on is completely gummed up. i don't think that comes apart does it? needs cleaned and freshly lubed. it takes some effort to move it back and forth with my fingers. kind of crazy. never seen anything like it. that seems to be a recurring theme with this one. i'll take you along next time i go to look at a pin.
it looks good all cleaned up and led'd; lol.
baseball analogy: it's like getting hit by a pitch. you got on base, but it hurt like hell.
Quoted from weaverj:i'll be fine, i hope. i just get to fix everything that's been broke or needed maintenance for the last 5-10 years. i get to learn a lot at least.
the post assembly that the arm pivots on is completely gummed up. i don't think that comes apart does it? needs cleaned and freshly lubed. it takes some effort to move it back and forth with my fingers. kind of crazy. never seen anything like it. that seems to be a recurring theme with this one. i'll take you along next time i go to look at a pin.
DON'T lube things on pinball machines - it will make things worse by a large margin.
Strip, clean and reassemble dry. I sometimes use a very light dust of graphite powder but NEVER grease, oil or WD40 etc.
Quoted from weaverj:that might have been what happened. someone lubed this thing, now it's cake batter.
Could be, lubing pinball parts is a big "no-no".
drain kicker fixed. mist ball still not working. that was obviously a long-shot. needed fixed though.
yeah they're good. single switch test for 82 triggers as soon as i select it. tv remote closes it. it's the trasmitter or board, i'd guess. it can't be the gates blocking the beam, can it?
Quoted from weaverj:yeah they're good. single switch test for 82 triggers as soon as i select it. tv remote closes it. it's the trasmitter or board, i'd guess. it can't be the gates blocking the beam, can it?
Alot if things can cause the mist not to work . Ball position, gate position, optos, opto board . Ive helped 6-7 people get theirs working and in all cases it was the board as the caps needed replaced
gotcha. so swing for the fences, you're saying. i pm'd hibler about redoing the card. that should be a little cheaper than a new one. i don't know, maybe i should just order a new one.
Quoted from weaverj:gotcha. so swing for the fences, you're saying. i pm'd hibler about redoing the card. that should be a little cheaper than a new one. i don't know, maybe i should just order a new one.
Just replace the caps on the 24 opto board.... in every case i worked that was the issue . Ive fixed 3 boards and cld do yours and test everything first since i have a bsd
Quoted from Homepin:These are standard IR parts. They are not special despite what some may think. The special tricks are done on the 24" opto board.
Thanks so much for clarifying this for me. I got the board from Homepin AU and installed it. Still had issue and realized it is probably the Optos. Now I just have to find a block of time.
the fix was removing the beam guide thingy in front of the receiver on the left hand side of the playfield. we're good to go.
Starting having a problem with my mist multiball long range Optos not registering open when the beam is blocked. Game will load ball into the right ball storage area but will keep kicking the ball out and eventually gives up after about three tries. I pulled the 24 opto board and inspected for cold solder joints bad connectors or broken or missing components. Nothing stood out. I checked some resistance values and noticed that R12 on my game is just a zero ohm jumper resistor, not the 10 ohm resistor shown in the manual and schematic. Note this is factory. The board has had no previous work. See picture. Any thoughts for this anomaly?
Quoted from Chet:Starting having a problem with my mist multiball long range Optos not registering open when the beam is blocked. Game will load ball into the right ball storage area but will keep kicking the ball out and eventually gives up after about three tries. I pulled the 24 opto board and inspected for cold solder joints bad connectors or broken or missing components. Nothing stood out. I checked some resistance values and noticed that R12 on my game is just a zero ohm jumper resistor, not the 10 ohm resistor shown in the manual and schematic. Note this is factory. The board has had no previous work. See picture. Any thoughts for this anomaly?
Guess folks just ignore these older threads even though the BSD Mist Multi-ball seems to cause plenty of issues for people as these games get older. The problem with my board has been repaired. I replaced the R12 resistor with the correct value 10 Ohm 1/4 watt resistor and while I had the board out of the game, While i could not determine if they were bad, I replaced both the electrolytic caps and the L1 inductor. I Play tested the repaired board and the Mist-multiball is working perfect again. The long range opto is registering open and closed states as it should.
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Buffalo, NY
