(Topic ID: 166609)

Missing Slam Tilt Switch: Gottlieb s80B none booting game

By BleacherBum

7 years ago

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Latest reply 7 years ago by BleacherBum
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Chicago Cubs 'Triple Play' Gottlieb, 1985

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Hi All,

I am in the beginning step of bring a Gottlieb Chicago Cubs Triple Play (System 80B, 1985) back to life. One one thing I am a little confused about concerns the slam tilt switch that the manual and pictures show on the coin draw. It appears that mine may have been removed. The attached picture has a red arrow pointing to a rectangular area that appears to be where the switch would have bee located. The white arrow points to a connector that I assume would have been connected to the slam tilt switch. There is no other location on the coin draw that is missing connecting wires. If I understand correctly this switch is normally closed. Since the slam tilt switch is missing and the wires in the red connector are not connected wouldn’t this be the same as an open switch? Any input or advice what I should do or not do about the the issue above will be greatly appreciated.

Additional information about the game is:
Currently the game is not booting. Play field lights an backglass lights come on. Nothing else is functioning at this time. I am working through the advice on Pinwiki.
The game has a Swemmer MPU board.
All fuses test OK.
All coils test OK.
I have finished the ground mod.
Re-soldered the power board pins and replace the trim pod.
I am getting 5.19 at the power board, 5.09 at the connector going to the driver board.
I have not re-pined any connectors as I awaiting supplies.
Replaced the large capacitor in the cabinet.

Thanks,
Phil

IMG_0019_edited_(resized).jpg

That red connector is not factory. Both wires going into it are connected, therefore bypassing / closing the slam tilt.

You can open the cover on the red connector, it snaps over one side (right side in photo). There is a piece of metal in a slot inside it. The piece of metal has two wire channels. The wires go into the channel when the connector is squeezed closed, the wire channels cut through the insulation and make contact with the wire.

They are somewhat unreliable. I'd probably just remove it, strip a little on the slam switch wires, and use a wire nut on it. If you're never planning on using a slam tilt you could solder them together.

Two threads were created with the same topic. I closed one, and copied below an answer posted there:

Quoted from Topher5000:Deleted post

Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:
That red connector is not factory. Both wires going into it are connected, therefore bypassing / closing the slam tilt.
You can open the cover on the red connector, it snaps over one side (right side in photo). There is a piece of metal in a slot inside it. The piece of metal has two wire channels. The wires go into the channel when the connector is squeezed closed, the wire channels cut through the insulation and make contact with the wire.
They are somewhat unreliable. I'd probably just remove it, strip a little on the slam switch wires, and use a wire nut on it. If you're never planning on using a slam tilt you could solder them together.

If there is a connector problem, the slam could still be open at the CPU board. This can be defeated on the circuit board, and probably the best way to handle it as long as you can do minor pcb work.

normally closed slam detection switch... pffft! come on gtb!

Thanks for the replies and information. This helps. And thanks for pointing me to the topic on the Raven game.

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