Quoted from greatwichjohn:

I do not believe CPR had any issues, & they likely use another sealer. I used many different finish contractors along with Ron who has purchased a number to correct a few mistakes, or to clear himself from ink only. No one ever had the failures like Mirco. He is a special kind of guy! Still maybe only a small percentage of his playfields go bad. But who knows the true numbers except the man himself. Maybe ask him at TPF, & see if he actually answers that question. I always stood behind my product over the 15 years, & lost money.

Quoted from Cherries_Jubilee:

Pictures?

Quoted from Cherries_Jubilee:

Interesting, because CPR just switched to digital printing 2-1/2 years ago.....

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

I have a CPR WW playfield lying around waiting to be used. Ink adhering beautifully!

Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

You mean like this. This started out as 2 chips on the left side of the scoop. Keep in mind, this happened after a small handful of plays.
This pic is after stripping everything off the playfield and making an agreement for a replacement.
Just for fun, I started picking at the chips with a fingernail.
It got a lot worse than this.
[quoted image]

Quoted from goingincirclez:

What is it that would make ink (or paint, or pigment, or whatever) not stick to the wood in the first place?
I get that a fresh new PF has wood sanded so smooth it may not have much tooth. And it may absorb different colors/layers at different rates. Both reasons being why primer should be the first layer. But that seems like an elementary step that is not "new", nor dependent on which/what process (digital, screened, etc) is used?
Is it a case where the surface tension of clear adhering and curing to the ink directly below, pulls the ink layer off the wood? Obviously I realize that still points to "ink adhesion" as the root cause... so I guess what I'm asking/wondering is if the ink would NOT have separated from the wood, if there was no clear applied? Or maybe it's "too much" clear?

Quoted from Pinhead1982:

OUCH… that was a disaster.

How’s CPR these days..

Quoted from ForceFlow:

Some folks have pointed out in other threads that artwork for certain games isn't quite right or as detailed as it should be (keylines were much too thick on a few titles).
I don't think I've seen mention of clearcoat pooling under posts or clearcoat failures, but on some examples, there have been raised lips around hole edges and gaps or ridges around inserts. So, some people opt to send CPR playfields to get re-cleared by someone else. I'm not sure if that's been addressed/corrected in more recent runs.

Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

This was a little better than a year ago. I did a playfield swap for a friend.
These were the minor issues.
What really pissed me off was Kevin initially took no responsibility for any of the issues we had. Pointed the finger at me and said it had to be all my fault because they have never had issues like this with any of their playfields. After a little research, we found that was not the case.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

You mean like this. This started out as 2 chips on the left side of the scoop. Keep in mind, this happened after a small handful of plays.
This pic is after stripping everything off the playfield and making an agreement for a replacement.
Just for fun, I started picking at the chips with a fingernail.
It got a lot worse than this.
[quoted image]

Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

Precisely my point.. Does anyone have any valid research on this.. I've seen some high mileage games in my day
with all manner of playfield issues. At what point could these issues been resolved?
Perhaps a post wasn't torqued correctly and has been wiggling and causing damage. Hence the reason I try to give
my games a thorough inspection. Learned that from guys who route games. A little bit of prevention goes along way.
Some people even take off the "Rubbers" and harden their games. Wonder what the impact that causes longterm?

Quoted from zr11990:

if you want a MM PF buy a MMr PF from planetary pinball.