If you have never bought a repro pf before there is some info you should know. First off its really important to let it cure for a couple 4 months, so you can see what it is going to look like. Often they are printed on wood that is not cured yet. So some have serious wood grain that comes up. Others have the inserts move and and down, and if it is a lot it causes a jagged crack in the clear around it. If you complain you will hear that it is normal, and one person will often say "its better than the one you have in there now"
No matter how it looks when you install it, a production pf is going to look quite different after 100 and then 200 games. They have a production clear, which is plenty good enough for going on route, or if you are a good enough person. The way I look at it is, if I am going to invest a buttload of money and 100 hours I want it to be a gem. In my experience the surface of the stock repro pf starts to look like a golf ball surface.
So I have developed a finish that is more to stay flat and "not ball dimple" as its main job. I do hand block sand them to 3000 grit and then polish for 5-6 hours after the last coat. That way its as flat as glass. To me the important thing is not getting all pock marked. So Try to go to a show or over a local pinheads house that has installed a repro pf to see how you feel about the surface. If it is something you do not like, my service is an option. I spend a buttload of time sanding in between coats, so the finish installs as well as it can. With my clear I suggest to people to use the dremmil to remove a small area of the clear before drilling and screwing in to the pf. then you wont chip and crack the clear. I sell a kit with a dozen dremmil bits for just this. there are also bits to get the clear out of star roll overs (always test those before installing, often they are full of clear), and other tasks. Also a stone to clean the bits, a tool to measure, and a glue kit w applicators because its good to have. The kit is awesome on any clear coat, mine or a stock repro. They cost 95 shipped.
I also seal the back side of the pf with poly, and I can fix any issues like print problems, scratches, cracks around inserts what ever. So if you are someone who is a details person, you should contact me. Also if you dont like the way your pf looks after curing, I can make it right. In for a penny in for a pound. Here is a pf that someone brought in because the wood grain rose so much toy could use it for cleaning laundry. I was taking pics of a completed pf and the light was hitting it right to show off the surface. My point is you have options. Yes its a bummer that after you buy something you have to spend more to make it the way you want. The alternative is not swapping the pf I guess. If you are not buying a repro pf because of the clear or the teeth are red, that is all stuff that I do every day. Options are a good thing.
Also I see quite a few on this thread are customers of mine all ready. I have been doing this full time for over 13 years, and there are a buttload of people who dont know who I am or what I do, so I thought I would use this as an opportunity.
Thanks to everyone for their support thru the years
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