(Topic ID: 283725)

Mills Tycoon 1936 Pin Table - Slot Machine

By Nikrox2

11 months ago

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  • 34 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 months ago by Nikrox2
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders


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#1 11 months ago

Neighbor brought this one over - was partially in a basket, but seems to be all there. Beautiful art deco look!

I wanted to put her together, make sure she works, then thought we'd take her back apart and start a real renovation. May sell if there's any interest?

Current situation - re-installed all mechanical pieces, even the slot mechanisms, these are sluggish, but work.

Added new power cord and the internal 120v smaller cord to the playfield (I take it - this goes to the small watch/timer section - that actually starts the power to the transformer) the clock works, and I can plug in a small lamp to this outlet inside the machine - but it comes on very very dim. Small hum for 10-15 seconds after I activate the watch/timer, but no other lights or power shown.

Thinking it's the transformer itself now. (12v?? for both the DC and the Lights connections) But I may have the transformer wired wrong too?

Also - there seems to be 3 different versions on this game - this looks like the original version. Pictures on the data base show a smaller coil just over this larger coil on the pay out unit - but there are no connections to add this other coil, so not sure it's needed here? There are 2 leads off the larger coil (there's a Jones plug connection that plugs this unit in) But not sure what these two leads are for?

Anyone have some info on this type of game? All help is appreciated! Thanks!

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#2 11 months ago


I think the electropak was used to replace the battery. I think the machine originally used a 6 volt battery, but I’m not for sure.

That machine looks nice, and appears to have original legs.

Be aware that the number of folks who want one of these types of machines are dwindling. I’m old, and I only remember stories of payout machines being everywhere “in good old days”. In other words, I’ve never played one, only seen pics and heard stories.

I’m interested in what you end up doing with this - if you get it going, I would love to see a video of it working, including the payout and how that works.

Good luck, stay safe!

#3 11 months ago

very nice. First thing i would do is totally bypass the transformer. If it selenium its bad. Its def 12v so you could DMM and test if youre getting teh right voltage

we have a facebook group as well


#4 11 months ago

Hey thanks for the responses! And agree, not for everyone, but I do think everyone can see the beauty in this one - or where it could be. A little work, nice paint job and some chroming, this thing may be amazing.

Question - I was about to run to home depot to get a 120v-12v step down transformer to try to get this one going. How do I by-pass the "T"? Are both the "DC" and the "Lights" - 12v?

#5 11 months ago

Subscribed to see your progress. Looks like a beauty.

#6 11 months ago

Nick -

Now that I'm a computer screen instead of a phone, I see the power supply is 12 volt. As Way2wyrd stated, its likely bad, but test it to be sure. I don't know how many watts you need - you may need to make a rough calculation.

If you a have an old computer with a power supply, you might be able to use it's 12 volt output as a test instead of running out somewhere. It looks like you have two 12 volt circuits.

#7 11 months ago

Going to try the 12v supply as suggested, I'm sure I have one here somewhere.

For the playfield, what does the 120v line do? It jumps right from that service outlet right to the playfield - the timer/clock thingy..lol Is that all it's for?

Just hook up the 2 -12v connections and keep it powered on? Does that do away with the 120v need to the pf? just doesn't seem safe..lol

#8 11 months ago

I’m guessing the 120 vac is going to a motor, so there’s no way around that.

See if you can see a part number or other information on it to verify what it is.

The selenium rectifier provides the DC. Since there’s no capacitors, I’m sure the DC is not very smooth, but if it’s for lights, that should not be an issue.

Keep in touch with the pre war group. They know a heck of a lot more about these machines than I do. I’m just a very curious bystander

#9 11 months ago

yep submitted to be members yesterday, hoping they'll let me join I'll keep an update on this one if I can

#10 11 months ago

Under the playfield, they've stapled the "circuit" schematic! Although I can trace from bulbs, to switches, to relays, to jones plugs - but I do NOT see where the power is shown? 120v or 12v??? Am I missing something, or is this just the 12v circuit layout? (Excuse the wiring stapled over)

Looks like the timer mechanism was to keep power on/off and not continuously on, so if I disconnect the timer, I'll need to figure out how to by-pass?

Possibly just a 12v power supply (always on) to both the connections shown above in the other photo of the transformer ? 1 at the "DC" and 1 at the "Lites" - think that will do it? Much safer than 120v to the playfield??

Schematics - Mills Tycoon 1936 (resized).jpg
#11 11 months ago

Nick - On the right hand side, you can see the cells - these are the batteries. So it looks like the system is powered by 12 VDC, and I'm guessing the 120 VAC timer was added the same time as the Electropak was added to eliminate the batteries.

#12 11 months ago

ahhhh, never seen a battery icon! But "cells" make sense. I'll give another update after I get the 12v going! Thanks again for the help!

#13 11 months ago

Oh shit a schematic! Never have i seen one on a machine of this vintage. Please please please make a copy and post it public. Lets get a close look and we can figure out all the power issues

#14 11 months ago

Interesting 3 banks of 6 batteries?? Thats 9v per bank i think. Id love a schematic blowup.

So the timer is meant not to use up the batteries. When you push a coin slide in the clock will "wind" and close the power switch to provide power to one or more of the circuits. After it ticks down you will lose power as the switch opens

#15 11 months ago

Hey guys thanks for the help and interest. I’m always willing to help do my part for the community - so just remove the staples and scan this? (Then re-staple it back to keep original?)

I did the computer power supply - applied 12v to both the “DC” and the “Lites” - get nuttin. But I don’t know how to confirm all else is even working (as in - I may be getting the correct power but the other items may be bad - lights (very old screw in type. I’ll find some replacements). But not sure the payout unit works or what ever else needs power. ?? Like the ball ejector coil.

And I’m not sure of actual operation.

I can place nickels in the slot mechanism and can crank the handle and coins drop to next level- as if waiting for the payout unit to release - if I manually move the arm to the payout unit- the coins then drop to the chute. So looks like some parts are working.

#16 11 months ago

im not sure id remove but i personally would take 3 or 4 very high quality images maybe with wires moved a bit on each one.

it looks like you have lights, payout and special circuit

#17 11 months ago

Just to be sure I’m even doing this correctly - where are you guys seeing I should attach the 12v power and grounds ?
Pin 3 on the 12 pin Jones plug - power
Pin 1 on the 12 pin Jones plug - ground

Pin 4 was to a fuse holder - not using now

I also see Pin 9 on the 9 pin Jones plug - is this another ground? Or power. Hard to tell how to hook up 12v from this schematic with the batteries.

Have a possible lead on someone to rebuild the transformer - to get it back in somewhat but safe operation

#18 11 months ago

Likely the transformer is OK. The selenium rectifier needs to be bypassed and a full wave bridge rectifier added underneath keeping the look the same on the power unit.

2 weeks later
#19 10 months ago

Update - had the mod competed as mentioned (bypassed the SR but kept installed for looks) and the rectifier installed. Looks like I'm getting 6v on each set of outputs - DC & LITES. I've also bypassed the timer - looks like as it was wired - after the timer stopped the electric quit flowing - so wired direct thru.

Hooked up the three loose wires to the tilt mechanism remnants - per the schematic - but still no action.

I can place nickels in - with power on and transformer humming (inside mounted switch in either direction) and rotate the slots mechanism, nickels drop, timer starts anyhow even tho not connected, but nothing after that. No ball pushed in by the smaller outhole coil, no impacts when manually pushing on the "multiplier" lanes switches at the top or the lane/ball landing sockets at the bottom - no lights (ever - even have new bulbs 6.3v to match existing installed) - no nuttin.

Could it all be the pay out unit? I would think part of this would work, but if that unit is the "CPU" of the machine, it could be causing it not to work at all?

Any ideas? Just thought I'd ask here, then maybe the FB group ??

Thanks again!

#20 10 months ago

Further update - and progress!!

Disconnected the 3 wires from the tilt mechanism remnant. And kept them tied together - viola we have a working machine ! Whoop whoop. Getting the bonus lights to work and the pay out unit to work now. Still needs cleaned up and adjusted but working now

Still have the bottom lights to work on then break her down for a full restore. Now that we know she works - she’s worth the work I Believe I’ll post further updates as we go on this one

1 week later
#21 10 months ago

Adding some updates and photos as we go here...as stated, I'm not a cabinet painter (so far). But I think the legs turned out nicely. 3rd photo down from the start of this thread shows the condition the legs were in. Just wish I could get the cabinet to behave as well!

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#22 10 months ago

Compared to post 1, photo #2 this piece polished up and a little paint made it pop!

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#23 10 months ago

Playfield really didn't need much, just a good cleaning and waxing (No Novus here!) Missed a spot!

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#24 10 months ago

And now playfield re-assembled. Looks much better Getting there!

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#25 10 months ago

Finished painting and clear coating the cabinet. Added some crush velvet ribbon for under the glass on each side. New tempered glass ordered. Can’t wait to put this one all back together!

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#26 10 months ago

More updates. Getting there.

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#27 10 months ago

Using gel strips instead of the original colored tissue paper (keeping it all in a box inside but this will look much better)

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#28 10 months ago

Great work! Nicely Done.

1 week later
#29 9 months ago

More updates and photos. She’s all back together and playing. A few bugs to work out but she looks better than new! Love the “Art Deco” look of the day. Amazing this one was able to come from a basket case to this! I’ll attach some “work” photos first

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#30 9 months ago

Now some photos as she sits today. Did I say she has sexy legs?

The “slots “ mechanism was beautifully brought back to life by the neighbors who sent me the game in the first place. Amazing work there! Smooth as “buttah”!

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#31 9 months ago

WOW! Very nice!

#33 9 months ago

Beautiful job! Please submit some of your photos to the International Pinball Database, especially one of the schematic. They only have low resolution photos. Thanks.
See https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2700

3 months later
#34 6 months ago

Anyone interested? Any trades out there?


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