How about a club thread for Williams Millionaire? I got one of these a few weeks ago and have been building up some information about the game on my website at...

http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/mill/mill.html

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What I really want to talk about is the rotary beacon topper. According to IPDB, export games were fitted with a topper similar to High Speed or F-14. I haven't found any explanation as to why the topper wasn't included on domestic games. I want one. I have confirmed that my domestic game includes the supporting software (Rev 3). I also have a four-pin connector that resembles F-14. See F-14 schematic below. My connector is the same except my control wire is brn/red corresponding to solenoid function 10 (Q9). I also have five mounting holes in the backbox that look like they may correspond to the relay board and fuse arrangement found in F-14.

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I assume the mechanical arrangement of the single beacon is more like High Speed. I don't intend to cut a hole through the top of my backbox. Instead I'd like to build up a stand alone topper that mounts on top of the head. Here's what I've collected so far...

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I'm pretty much ready to go. But I'm hoping to hear from someone with an export Millionaire. I'd like to see some pics of the actual electrical and mechanical arrangements of the beacon from inside the head. Also I know nothing about the artwork associated with the beacon dome aside from a few pics on IPDB. Is it a decal? A transparency? Just a piece of paper? Anyone have a scan or a spare they'd part with? Any information would be much appreciated.

*** Still looking for any info regarding the art associated with the beacon dome. ***

Progress is slow around the holidays. I started building up some wiring and a housing for the beacon mechanism...

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Photo editing isn't really my thing, but I gave it a shot starting with that IPDB pic. There's only one coin that isn't at least partially obscured. I squashed the picture to try and make the coin look a little more round. Then I chopped it out and pasted a bunch of copies on a black background. The full image is below and should be printed to a width of 17". I made some test prints on copy paper. When it's up on the game and 4' from the eye, it doesn't look entirely terrible. Copy paper isn't the right material. Still thinking about that.

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F-14 pictures show a C-11232-1 relay board. I couldn't find a C-11232-1 or a C-11232 or a C11232-2. So I bought a Great Lakes Modular relay snubber board and removed all the snubber components.

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One more hardware test before putting all together...

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Still not sure about the fuse situation. The F-14 triple beacon arrangement calls for a 4 amp slow-blow. The High Speed single beacon arrangement calls for a 1 amp slow-blow, which is what I'm using. The fuse seems to be holding, but I measuring about 1.2 amps. That's about 1 amp for the 1683 lamp and about .2 amps for the motor.

I mounted the beacon to the backbox with a pair of small hinges so I'd have access to the backbox key.

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Final wiring...

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As I thought, my copy paper art print blocked too much light. But the dome without any art is almost too bright. I need a different material for the art print. Or maybe I should have bought a red or blue dome and dispensed with the art all together. Otherwise the project is done.

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I changed my mind about using copy paper for the beacon art and decided it was good enough. I took the image to Staples and had it printed on 11" x 17" paper so there's only one seam. I'm calling this project done.

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Here's a brief video of the end result...

Compare that to an export Millionaire (fast forward to about 6:10)...

There are a few individual plastics floating around on eBay. No slingshots that I've seen.

Your relay wiring looks like mine...

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I can't stuff my camera into the drops well enough for a good pic, but...

First target...
Banded = Brn
Non-banded = Vio/Blu
C = Grn/Blk
R = Wt/Gry
GND = Blk/Yl
+12 = Gry/Yl

Second target...
Banded = Brn
Non-banded = Vio/Grn
C = Grn/Blk
R = Wt/Vio
GND = Blk/Yl
+12 = Gry/Yl

But it's hard to see back there without taking things apart. Suggest you try cross-check the above with the manual.

Relays...

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First target...

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Second target...

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My opto boards are shorter and don't have the connector like yours do.

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No sooner did I take those pictures above than I realized my first drop target was no longer registering. I didn't find much of anything on this C-11319 circuit board. I guess Millionaire was the first game to have one. I don't have an IR sensor card and my digital camera didn't pick up anything one way or another. I found some general tips on testing opto interrupters, but not much. Here's what I did...
First I doodled my own schematic since I couldn't find one.
I measured about 1 volt across the transmitter which seemed okay.
I measured about 1 volt across the receiver when open which seemed okay.
I measured about 12 volts across the receiver when blocked which seemed okay.
Then I shorted the column terminal to the banded side of D1 and got a switch edge.
So then I started testing the transistor and it looks to have an open emitter.
A closer look shows that this transistor has already been replaced once before.
So now I'm waiting for an order of transistors. I also ordered some extra optos. I also ordered some extra E-clip board retainers since the game ate mine. I mean... It just disappeared... Where do these little friggin things end up?

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What board do you have on your top drop target? It's not the same C-11319.

Okay, good. I suspected, but was unable to find any sort of compatibility cross reference.

A new 2N3906 did the trick. There's supposed to be a blob of silicone between the board and transistor to help protect the transistor from board vibration. The previous repair person did not replace the silicone and the old emitter lead broke. I added a small dab. I wanted some level of protection without making the new transistor impossible to replace in the future. So now I'm back to having a fully functional cat warming table.

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I don't know the size, but it is significantly smaller than a standard pinball.