(Topic ID: 174581)

Millionaire's Club


By JeffZee

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 83 posts
  • 27 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by statictrance
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

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There are 83 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 3 years ago

How about a club thread for Williams Millionaire? I got one of these a few weeks ago and have been building up some information about the game on my website at...

http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/mill/mill.html

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What I really want to talk about is the rotary beacon topper. According to IPDB, export games were fitted with a topper similar to High Speed or F-14. I haven't found any explanation as to why the topper wasn't included on domestic games. I want one. I have confirmed that my domestic game includes the supporting software (Rev 3). I also have a four-pin connector that resembles F-14. See F-14 schematic below. My connector is the same except my control wire is brn/red corresponding to solenoid function 10 (Q9). I also have five mounting holes in the backbox that look like they may correspond to the relay board and fuse arrangement found in F-14.

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I assume the mechanical arrangement of the single beacon is more like High Speed. I don't intend to cut a hole through the top of my backbox. Instead I'd like to build up a stand alone topper that mounts on top of the head. Here's what I've collected so far...

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I'm pretty much ready to go. But I'm hoping to hear from someone with an export Millionaire. I'd like to see some pics of the actual electrical and mechanical arrangements of the beacon from inside the head. Also I know nothing about the artwork associated with the beacon dome aside from a few pics on IPDB. Is it a decal? A transparency? Just a piece of paper? Anyone have a scan or a spare they'd part with? Any information would be much appreciated.

3 weeks later
#2 3 years ago

*** Still looking for any info regarding the art associated with the beacon dome. ***

Progress is slow around the holidays. I started building up some wiring and a housing for the beacon mechanism...

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#3 3 years ago

Looking good.

Best art picture I've seen is the one from IPDB
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No mention of the motor parts/info in the online parts book either.

1 week later
#4 3 years ago

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Photo editing isn't really my thing, but I gave it a shot starting with that IPDB pic. There's only one coin that isn't at least partially obscured. I squashed the picture to try and make the coin look a little more round. Then I chopped it out and pasted a bunch of copies on a black background. The full image is below and should be printed to a width of 17". I made some test prints on copy paper. When it's up on the game and 4' from the eye, it doesn't look entirely terrible. Copy paper isn't the right material. Still thinking about that.

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F-14 pictures show a C-11232-1 relay board. I couldn't find a C-11232-1 or a C-11232 or a C11232-2. So I bought a Great Lakes Modular relay snubber board and removed all the snubber components.

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One more hardware test before putting all together...

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Still not sure about the fuse situation. The F-14 triple beacon arrangement calls for a 4 amp slow-blow. The High Speed single beacon arrangement calls for a 1 amp slow-blow, which is what I'm using. The fuse seems to be holding, but I measuring about 1.2 amps. That's about 1 amp for the 1683 lamp and about .2 amps for the motor.

#5 3 years ago

I mounted the beacon to the backbox with a pair of small hinges so I'd have access to the backbox key.

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Final wiring...

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As I thought, my copy paper art print blocked too much light. But the dome without any art is almost too bright. I need a different material for the art print. Or maybe I should have bought a red or blue dome and dispensed with the art all together. Otherwise the project is done.

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#6 3 years ago

Looks pretty cool. Nice job!

#7 3 years ago

I changed my mind about using copy paper for the beacon art and decided it was good enough. I took the image to Staples and had it printed on 11" x 17" paper so there's only one seam. I'm calling this project done.

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Here's a brief video of the end result...

Compare that to an export Millionaire (fast forward to about 6:10)...

1 week later
#8 3 years ago

Nice job JZ!

1 month later
#9 3 years ago

I picked up a Millionaire today. Can I be the 2nd club member?
Looking for a left slingshot plastic and maybe a few more things as I shop out this game. Anybody got a few extra plastics?

#10 3 years ago

There are a few individual plastics floating around on eBay. No slingshots that I've seen.

#11 3 years ago

Could I ask a favor of someone who has a Millionaire ? I have a couple of hack jobs under the PF and would highly appreciate some hi def pics.
1. The 2 relay boards that are located close together pretty close to the center of the PF underside.
2. the 2 drop targets in back. (Best possible shots of mechs and wiring.)

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#12 3 years ago

Your relay wiring looks like mine...

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#13 3 years ago

I can't stuff my camera into the drops well enough for a good pic, but...

First target...
Banded = Brn
Non-banded = Vio/Blu
C = Grn/Blk
R = Wt/Gry
GND = Blk/Yl
+12 = Gry/Yl

Second target...
Banded = Brn
Non-banded = Vio/Grn
C = Grn/Blk
R = Wt/Vio
GND = Blk/Yl
+12 = Gry/Yl

But it's hard to see back there without taking things apart. Suggest you try cross-check the above with the manual.

#14 3 years ago

Relays...

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First target...

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Second target...

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#15 3 years ago

My opto boards are shorter and don't have the connector like yours do.

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#16 3 years ago

Thanks JZ, That is a huge help. Great pics!

#17 3 years ago

No sooner did I take those pictures above than I realized my first drop target was no longer registering. I didn't find much of anything on this C-11319 circuit board. I guess Millionaire was the first game to have one. I don't have an IR sensor card and my digital camera didn't pick up anything one way or another. I found some general tips on testing opto interrupters, but not much. Here's what I did...
First I doodled my own schematic since I couldn't find one.
I measured about 1 volt across the transmitter which seemed okay.
I measured about 1 volt across the receiver when open which seemed okay.
I measured about 12 volts across the receiver when blocked which seemed okay.
Then I shorted the column terminal to the banded side of D1 and got a switch edge.
So then I started testing the transistor and it looks to have an open emitter.
A closer look shows that this transistor has already been replaced once before.
So now I'm waiting for an order of transistors. I also ordered some extra optos. I also ordered some extra E-clip board retainers since the game ate mine. I mean... It just disappeared... Where do these little friggin things end up?

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#18 3 years ago

Great job on the topper Jeff. Thing looks great. I've been looking for a Millionaire, so when I find one, I'll probably get in touch to replicate your topper if you don't mind.

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from JeffZee:

It just disappeared... Where do these little friggin things end up?

LOL, for me, it's always the transformer. You would think once in awhile you could drop something and it would end up in a nice clear area on the cab base. Seems like everything is on or under the transformer (or the board it is mounted on)

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from dozer1:

LOL, for me, it's always the transformer. You would think once in awhile you could drop something and it would end up in a nice clear area on the cab base. Seems like everything is on or under the transformer (or the board it is mounted on)

What board do you have on your top drop target? It's not the same C-11319.

#21 3 years ago

I haven't had it off yet, but think it is one of these http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/sy111dt.html

Here is another example of it on e-bay, which lists Millionaire ebay.com link

It appears to have replaced C-11319 and other single drop boards.

#22 3 years ago

Okay, good. I suspected, but was unable to find any sort of compatibility cross reference.

#23 3 years ago

In the club. . .fun game. Don't judge a book. . . Always passed over this game based on it layout and what appears not much to do. My mistake. It is much more fun than it looks and the music is terrific, especially the multiball tunes.

#24 3 years ago

A new 2N3906 did the trick. There's supposed to be a blob of silicone between the board and transistor to help protect the transistor from board vibration. The previous repair person did not replace the silicone and the old emitter lead broke. I added a small dab. I wanted some level of protection without making the new transistor impossible to replace in the future. So now I'm back to having a fully functional cat warming table.

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2 months later
#25 3 years ago

Joined the club a few weeks ago with a basically parts machine I'm going to bring back from the dead. One bit of good news it's a re-import with the topper so I can scan the the topper art if anybody is interested. I also need a speaker panel overlay if anybody has one. Mike

4 weeks later
#26 3 years ago

Hello to all.

I.m in the search of some upper playfield tear down pics, but can't find any.

Any help , will be much appreciated.

Thank you

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from arqpuebla:

Hello to all.
I.m in the search of some upper playfield tear down pics, but can't find any.
Any help , will be much appreciated.
Thank you

PM me your actual e-mail and I will send you a bunch. Just shopped a Millionaire last spring.

#28 3 years ago
Quoted from dozer1:

PM me your actual e-mail and I will send you a bunch. Just shopped a Millionaire last spring.

Do you happen to have anything leftover from your millionaire shop job?

#29 3 years ago

Nope. Bet there are some plastics you would like to find. They are pretty tough to find.

#30 3 years ago

With some help from toyotaboy with 3d modeling and printing I finally have the plastic cap for my spinner 20170707_094856 (resized).jpg

I drilled and tapped the SS plate to mount the cap I'm much happier with this mounting over the stock snap in cap. I also have one of the decals Rixzilla made which I haven't installed on the cap yet. I've been looking for one of these caps for quite awhile now so now I can move on to the rest of the project (which is quite alot)

#31 3 years ago

That 3d stuff is amazing. Nice job!

Would love a couple lamp shields on score display made. If you can do white.

Those should be super easy just divided rectangles with a bit of flange at base.

Heat and or UV made em crispy and crumble if you touch em.

3 weeks later
#32 3 years ago

Hey guys X-Pin have made a short run of millionaire digital displays (See link)

https://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms11415-m/

Great spare, be quick
Bren-E

xpin (resized).JPG

7 months later
#33 2 years ago

I parted out a Williams Millionaire. I have a nice backglass, a stripped playfield with factory mylar, and most playfield assemblies.

#34 2 years ago

I’m not sure I’ve ever seen this game before. Looks like a fun layout.

#35 2 years ago

How much for the score/speaker cover panel? You know the one with the dollor signs.

#36 2 years ago

Anyone looking to bail on the club?

Looking to get in!

#37 2 years ago
Quoted from Akitostarwind:

How much for the score/speaker cover panel? You know the one with the dollor signs.

The speaker cover panel was the first piece to sell. I wish I had 50 of them. All I have left of the machine is the backglass, stripped playfield, and a bunch of playfield assemblies.

#38 2 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Anyone looking to bail on the club?
Looking to get in!

I've got one for sale but I wont ship it. I can bring it to the PATZ show if arrangements are made ahead of time.
Thanks
John

#39 2 years ago
Quoted from Dayhuff:

I've got one for sale but I wont ship it. I can bring it to the PATZ show if arrangements are made ahead of time.
Thanks
John

Damn. Won’t be going.

Wish I had known. I would’ve gone to Ohio show to pickup.

Thanks for reaching out though.

1 week later
#40 2 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Anyone looking to bail on the club?
Looking to get in!

I have a rough project if you are interested and arrange the shipping. The displays were working but now are not. I think there is a problem with a ground trace. They were not outgassed. The playfield art is very rough. If you are looking for a project and you get the stripped playfield from BallyPinWiz you could have a nice machine. The cabinet is in very good shape with nice art. The backglass has 2 small areas of flaking but otherwise looks great. It was playing well when I stored it.

I am outside of Chicago. If you wanted to arrange shipping and are interested let me know.

#41 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyPinWiz:

I parted out a Williams Millionaire. I have a nice backglass, a stripped playfield with factory mylar, and most playfield assemblies.

How much is the playfield and is in good shape? How is the artwork?
Do you have the roulette wheel assembly and was it all working? Mine works but I had to rebend some switches and a fresh one would be better.

#42 2 years ago
Quoted from csbelli:

I have a rough project if you are interested and arrange the shipping. The displays were working but now are not. I think there is a problem with a ground trace. They were not outgassed. The playfield art is very rough. If you are looking for a project and you get the stripped playfield from BallyPinWiz you could have a nice machine. The cabinet is in very good shape with nice art. The backglass has 2 small areas of flaking but otherwise looks great. It was playing well when I stored it.
I am outside of Chicago. If you wanted to arrange shipping and are interested let me know.

Thanks for the offer. I think shipping would kill the deal.

#43 2 years ago

I would be interested in the complete game. Mike

#44 2 years ago

The machine has been sold.

Quoted from csbelli:

I have a rough project if you are interested and arrange the shipping. The displays were working but now are not. I think there is a problem with a ground trace. They were not outgassed. The playfield art is very rough. If you are looking for a project and you get the stripped playfield from BallyPinWiz you could have a nice machine. The cabinet is in very good shape with nice art. The backglass has 2 small areas of flaking but otherwise looks great. It was playing well when I stored it.
I am outside of Chicago. If you wanted to arrange shipping and are interested let me know.

#45 2 years ago
Quoted from csbelli:

How much is the playfield and is in good shape? How is the artwork?
Do you have the roulette wheel assembly and was it all working? Mine works but I had to rebend some switches and a fresh one would be better.

Anyone interested in the stripped playfield, please PM me so I can send you pictures. Include your email address. I also have a nice backglass for the machine. The playfield is $100 and the backglass is $50. I do not have the roulette wheel assembly.

#46 2 years ago

Question for the informed:

What size is your ball in the roulette assembly?

Mine came with a full size pinball in there - I suspect it’s not correct as it doesn’t push down the switches on the wheel.

rd

#47 2 years ago

I don't know the size, but it is significantly smaller than a standard pinball.

#48 2 years ago
Quoted from rotordave:

What size is your ball in the roulette assembly?

This must be it Dave. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB34

#49 2 years ago

Thanks dudes.

rd

1 month later
#50 2 years ago

I played an altered Millionaire at the YEGPIN show this month and it was hilarious. Bobble head topper, DT callouts. Just thought I'd share it with you.

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