Thanks for the offer. It hard to see in the picture but the paint is so thin you can see the original paint through it. Fingers crossed it latex on top and will come right off.

dudah I got lucky. Still confuses me why people paint over artwork that looks this good.

So I got a little off topic guys. I promise the next post will be back on the shooting gallery

received_309590853372810 (resized).jpeg

Tumbler

Alright back to the shooting gallery. I've had some time to put the new tumbler through it's paces. I bought this one if anyone wants to know https://www.berrysmfg.com/product/ber-qd-500-vib-tumbler-110v . I really like being able to pop the bowl off. The lock for the base that secures the bowl feels very sturdy. In fact the whole thing feels sturdy. It's much quieter than other tumblers I've seen. I broke it in by running it for 5 days straight only turning it off to check it or switch out parts. I didn't notice any excessive heat or noise from running it this long. I was so impressed with the results I even threw in some parts that I had already polished and finished to see if I could get anymore out of them. I was so excited I forgot to take before pics but the after pics are awesome. Now that I have all the screws tumbled, my next step is to reassemble the duck mech. Also, did you now you could tumble bulbs? I found out about it last week and tossed one in just to see.

102919189_299944111170661_5003588593846178516_n (resized).jpg

103655202_263528914717348_312424862540387684_n (resized).jpg

103526202_894655024334543_5773906006399540691_n (resized).jpg

101956042_2498609303782493_4194770926720954409_n (resized).jpg

103159988_1327425304129540_4909354689383889498_n (resized).jpg

103285734_1510411499133572_3779551731449386556_n (resized).jpg

Duck Mech

I had some time to finally reassemble some mechs. For the duck mech, everything went fine except I got one of the return springs caught. I didn't noticed and pulled it and now I need a new spring. Hopefully one of the springs from a leftover stepper unit I have will work. Getting the chain back on the sprocket ends was the worse part. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to grease the bicycle chain with?

102380589_1188445374842478_6920595184191674800_n (resized).jpg

103039138_280248116432655_3728601418213802861_n (resized).jpg

101927756_296719204840111_7539502198767098256_n (resized).jpg

102407873_184899622899135_8837447606373873515_n (resized).jpg

101943614_260031448566931_2012894551200958218_n (resized).jpg

102934117_1157894407898248_6233980564676829595_n (resized).jpg

Ball Mech

While I was on a roll, I tackled the ball mech. They one didn't go together easily. The first 3 times I assembled it the inner cylinder wouldn't move. I found that I had to be very carefully tightening down the screws to not shift the main casing. A small deviation between the points on either side caused the inner cylinder to jam. The machine tolerances were very tight. 4th time was a charm and the action is smooth as butter.

102752533_282341326285018_6932499660499953386_n (resized).jpg103406907_282527016224924_1657234837663013195_n (resized).jpg103211812_963193407434272_3716096662242103553_n (resized).jpg103546238_594760167835167_2799271393513823143_n (resized).jpg

Main Target

There is one more mech in the main target and it's the clown. This part was the bane of my existence last time. I swore to never unravel the string off the wheel again The last game this part was easily accessible, but on this game the wheel for the string that pulls the clown back and forth is behind the top scenery.

103430692_2696923823917414_7721725900084681754_n (resized).jpg

There are 4 spiral nails in the top holding it in place. There's a plastic channel at the bottom to hold it in place, but the piece has curved and no longer makes contact. I was really hoping not to have to deal with spiral nails in artwork, but I can't see a way to access this part without removing it. To give myself more room to work, I decided to remove the rest of the target from the back. 6 screws attach it to the back and with those removed the entire thing comes off

102382698_2746598595586067_4485712391180563963_n (resized).jpg102554581_1725607124246025_842334545886790523_n (resized).jpg

I dropped the entire thing into my face vise so that I had both hands to get those stupid spiral nails out. This was my best attempt so far at removing these. I'm going to replace them with screws to make servicing the clown motor easier. But now I have a problem. The wheel is held on the motor shaft with a set screw that I can't see and can't really get to. I assume the cut out here is to allow for a screwdriver to get down the the set screw, but it's a tight fit. I assume it's a apn head like the rest of the screws. The shop was getting hot so I called it a day. I'm planning on putting an AC unit in this year. I insulated my shop 2 years ago and while it is about 10 degrees cooler inside, it's still hot.

102748615_339313437036204_7718981006449747739_n (resized).jpg

102811465_2988277427922909_7408297629201050564_n (resized).jpg

Main Target Reassembly

Not a big update. I've been busy polishing the main target's frame piece. The large metal plates are obviously too large for my tumbler and hand polishing them has been time consuming. So I started building back up the parts I could while working on the big plates. First section to reassemble was the clown motor. I didn't like the motor hanging all the time. Here are some before and after pics.

20190811_155148 (resized).jpg

103957726_667564834092808_358818676360754344_n (resized).jpg

104206659_962185924238046_8833414007018366407_n (resized).jpg

104175106_650161685539541_3860693775745912047_n (resized).jpg

103877723_2742191962677211_1229688822237226941_n (resized).jpg

103781894_655480205006923_8204815999959591943_n (resized).jpg

104972560_2432785677012911_7801021448604972625_n (resized).jpg

104217848_277404713328236_3276844653199213305_n (resized).jpg

Artwork

I had to take a break from polishing. I'm working on the rails that the balls ride on. While working on them, I spliced my thumb wide open on an edge. Almost needed stitches, but there was no way I was walking into a hospital right now with everything going on. I had been keeping the art for the game on top of a very tall cabinet in my shop. There's isn't a lot of places to put things in the house where no one can get to them. I was in the cabinet the other day and some of the art fell when I shut the door. Luckily, no damage, but it reminded me it was past time to clean them up, scan them, and store them in a better place.

I had heard that you could use cheap white bread to clean the cardboard and score reels that shouldn't have liquids on them. So I figured I'd try it.

IMG_20200623_140625 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_140623 (resized).jpg

Didn't work. Maybe my bread isn't cheap enough?! I'm still going to try it on the score reels when I get to them. A light wipe down with a minimally damp paper towel got a lot of it off. I had to be careful on the edges and where the nails used to be. This was my most successful spiral nail removal to date. No real damage other than where the nail head was. The art is in really nice condition and the edges that have issues are mostly covered when installed in the game.

IMG_20200623_141431 (resized).jpg

Artwork Continued

Next was the two side pieces that frame the main target. I've not really messed with them until now. They were a pain to remove and were one of the first things I removed since they were in such good condition. Here are some before and after cleaning pics. I'm marking some of these photos as NSFW since they may be offensive to some people. You have been warned. I don't want to get PM's saying you looked at them and were offended. The pig in the clown's arms cracks me up. Now they are clean and picture ready, I'll be scanning them in as insurance and putting them with the backglass where they won't be messed with.

IMG_20200623_141509 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_141511 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_142841 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_142844 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_143323 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_143326~2 (resized).jpg

Ball Mech

****Evaporust Update****

So I found a post on here where the OP was having the exact same issue I was having with my evaporust. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/evaporust. According to Evaporust, it might be lead contaminant. I bought a new jug of Evaporust to test with. I dropped some screws in and let them sit. No reaction. Then I knocked off a piece of junk off of one of the screws. The evaporust instantly turned a cloudy yellow, and if I had left the parts in there would probably resulted in the same thing. The junk could be anything but it definitely wasn't a junk of lead. Probably something rat related. Moral of the story is I need to clean my parts a lot better before dropping them in Evaporust. I would go with vinegar but I don't have time to watch it and baby it to make sure it doesn't eat through the plating. Same with CLR. I tried to use CLR in my last project and I can't get past the fumes.

****End Evaporust Update****

Hand polishing is grueling with these large parts. This is one of the ball trails. The U plastic channel is cracked and either I'll source a replacement or turn it around to have the damage on the backside. If I turn it around it wont get shot at anymore, but the ball will hit it when the ball is shot and falls out the back and that might cause issues. I'm getting close to being able to reassemble the main target and fixing the electrical issues I've found. So many parts!!
IMG_20200623_132911 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_123404 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200623_123425 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_130859 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_131601 (resized).jpgIMG_20200623_132114 (resized).jpg

Main Target

My thumb's doing better so I got some more polishing in. The main target is finally torn all the way down. I didn't take a lot of pictures that aren't reference photos for when I put it back together. It felt good getting the last few piece apart. I started cleaning on of the last plates. I've decided to change my cleaning strategy. What worked for my last restore just isn't working on this one despite the metal being in similar condition. I've found the best method of these parts is to degrease them while rinsing them in very hot water. Working everything with a soft bristle brush. When I'm polishing I'll still find areas that are still dirty. Even though I think they're clean, the Mother's Mag won't turn black when making contact. That just means I haven't cleaned down to actual metal which is hard to tell with all the discoloration. It's taking longer to polish but the plating looks to be in better condition and I don't have to burn through Evaporust if something from the game gets into it. After I'm done I take a red scotch brite pad to all of the edges. The first 2 pics are after I degreased and cleaned it. The first pic I polished part of it to get a good comparison. Total time spent: 1 hour spread over 3 days. I don't have a lot of continuous time to work on this project. I get it in where I can.

105699908_277933823550695_1605817979291224794_n (resized).jpg106121257_1138488266526098_5282040532161427894_n (resized).jpg105617174_262706318365934_8624359015940518401_n (resized).jpg

Main Target

I got a chance to scan in all the artwork. My home printer is fairly new, and I was excited to see how it scanned. I expected a little higher resolution, but the colors were 100% spot on. The top audience art and the bottom camp art are both warped and the scans didn't come out great. I don't want to remove the camp because I'm tired of fighting with spiral nails. I doubt they will flatten out even if I did put them into some sort of press.
Capture (resized).PNG
I finally had to replace the tumbler media. I got a good 80% of the target metal tumbled before having to switch it out. It still amaze me how clean it gets things. The below picture was from my last game and I thought it looked really good back then.......fast forward to this restore and there is no comparison. The last of the target parts are in the tumbler. I'm working on getting media out of the screws from the last batch, and I have 1 more ball guide to hand polish. Then I can reassemble. I had planned to assemble it in stages, but it makes more sense to reassemble it all in one go.

188e79f26ee6f5ebfd19f2c2b758530a7dcb1312 (resized).jpg107362112_283083616353405_8313614272641049565_n (resized).jpg107159975_2526460704331280_8194343935906178623_n (resized).jpg

Main Target

Without further ado, the reassembly begins. I chucked the main target back into the face vise on my table. This way I could work on the front and back without holding it. I didn't want to put it on it back since the motor is there. I planned to do this all at once, but of course that didn't happen. 2 hours in and I got pretty far. I realized I still need to learn to take more pictures. A lot of guess work and zooming in on blurry pics. I'm not trying to freak out, but I'm missing a piece. It's not a large piece and could be fabricated if necessary, but I'd rather find the thing. I've got the clown assembly and ball assembly done. Just have to get the duck assembly back in and do some wiring work.

108066140_576423253260794_4751279055724074379_n (resized).jpg107918903_296490361760280_7896043489860750408_n (resized).jpg107616242_308461527207734_4138105576351739249_n (resized).jpg107747847_268059751093344_7145565987072569900_n (resized).jpg107321118_283367746206491_3929716246450188794_n (resized).jpg106924411_323871985674986_8353182515543302382_n (resized).jpg106988538_610441349849046_2657950412798013885_n (resized).jpg107245278_618313012136513_3172276211642974347_n (resized).jpg107498176_277830500300306_7690904309240825378_n (resized).jpg

I thought I had bent one of the plates while cleaning it, and I was trying to figure out the best way to straighten it. Then I held it up to the target and had a good laugh. Instead of routing the extra wood out, the factory just bent the plate to fit.

106789371_324956298527427_3017797076346302809_n (resized).jpg

Thank you for the kind words. I don't know if it looks that good, but it does look 1000x better than when I started.

Main Target

I found the piece I was missing. Even though it's a small piece, it's necessary. The piece sits on the end of the last ball trail. If you miss the ball target, the ball rolls to the end and hits this piece that guides it to the back of the lower blue plastic. The lower blue plastic isn't just to feed the pellets you are shooting down to the return trough. It's curved to also guide the ball targets back into the blast gate trough to be sent back up. While working on these games, the ingenuity for the time still blows me away sometimes.

107765845_286038235991306_1432955598325194927_n (resized).jpg107736150_304732230710999_4312882931850124722_n (resized).jpg107859205_1370585279797850_3252470081862332906_n (resized).jpg

I took the coils and gave them a quick check to make sure they work before reinstalling. Cleared out all the old solder while I was at it. I finished installing the coil and switch for the clown target reset and the coil for the ball target blast gate. I had to remove the blast gate because the inner cylinder was sticking. The return spring didn't have enough tension to reset the gate. I'm finding this part to be one of the more finicky things on this machine. It seems like any friction on the inner cylinder makes it to where the spring can't reset it. After playing with it some more, I got it working. Installed it and it started doing the same thing. Did this 2 more times until it was reliably resetting. I have a couple of things left to do. Resolder the ball switches on the back, rewire a couple of pins on the jones plug, and lastly install the duck mech into the main target. The last one I'm not looking forward to. It really tight space to wire everything up with not a lot of wire length. I'm thinking about running new wire to the mech and splicing it into the old wiring. This will let me wire up everything before I install it. The it will be just matching up the new to old wiring.

107957545_321557635643741_5642526867687248948_n (resized).jpg

Main Target

It's been awhile, but I've been busy with work, family, etc. and haven't really had time to work on this. But I've started carving out some of my lunch break to work on the game. I went to reinstall the duck mech motor, but first it needed to be repaired. Part of the bakelite on the coil broke off. This left one of the coil leads hanging. I don't have the piece and instead of trying to fashion something, I decided to just hot glue the wire in place. I don't think the coil will ever get hot enough to melt it, but if it does I'll probably just wrap some electrical tape around it.

116822072_764986914267368_8272314952606014536_n (resized).jpg

After the repair, I decided to test the motor before install. The duck mech is hard to get to once the while target is assembled. The motor is even harder to get to. The motor itself has metal shielding on all side to stop pellets from falling into the open frame. So, I tore the transformer out of the back of the game, found a random 2 prong power cord I had, and wired it up. This is actually the first time I've put power to the game. It came to me with a destroyed power cord and I never bothered replacing it to try the game. I didn't see the point. It was nice to hear a quiet hum coming from the transformer as I plugged it in.

**Disclaimer** Do not try this at home. None of these wires are actually attached, no fuses, quick, dirty , but potentially dangerous.
115745064_725193911597241_7346749255490955046_n (resized).jpg

The motor tested fine. It just needed some lubrication. I popped the motor into the duck mech frame. Did a few adjustments and it ran fine. Here is a video of my test. Not the best video, but it's my first time trying to take a video during a restore. The duck reset in the back and ran smooth in the track. Progress!

Main Target Finished

Finally done. I rewired a section for the ball drop leaf switches and part of the jones plug that rats had got to. I used color correct cloth wire from the harness I bought and feed it into the existing harness. I'm not going to reinstall the artwork until final assembly. Here are some glamour shots.

IMG_20200806_165744 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200806_165657 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200806_165649 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200806_165622 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200806_165702 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200806_165645 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200806_165640 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200806_165603 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200806_165543 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200806_165538 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200806_141904 (resized).jpg

Compressor

Next up is the compressor. I haven't looked at this assembly since I pulled it from the cabinet. I pulled it and put it straight into a box that has sat inside the game since. It actually looks better than I remember.
117316754_943236049481774_6392074213717767020_n (resized).jpg
Other than the staining from the rats the base is in good condition. The bottom needs to be replaced. When I went to pry it off to take a look inside, the bottom was very soft. I'm surprised it came off in one piece.
116578779_3152898444826806_637431997246456475_n (resized).jpg117047465_1502797879908586_2855557035035777511_n (resized).jpg
With the bottom off, you can see how the airflow is controlled and used. The blue arrow is where the air is pulled in to the compressor. The hole to the right provides the suction for the tube that returns the pellets from the back of the game. The red arrow is where the compressor pushes air out to. The middle hole is used to push the pellet up and out of the gun. The C shaped hole to the provides air to the ball lift in the main target.
Inked116884108_737429850441727_1227549589613131386_n_LI (resized).jpg
I cleaned off all the old glue and wiped down the base. It will be getting a new coat of paint after the bottom is installed.

Compressor

With the compressor off the base, I looked it over before plugging it in. This thing is immaculate. No real dust or debris to speak of. This helps reaffirm my suspicion that this game wasn't routed for long or played all that much. These compressors are pretty much unobtanium. I've seen one for sale once. I have seen some guys hack a harbor freight compressor for air brushed to work. With how clean it was, I confidently hooked leads up to it and it spun right up. I'm very happy to not have to send it out for repair.

116715813_2648921488653700_6246180006890055851_n (resized).jpg

I cleaned the compressor housing after. It amazes me that the rats didn't get to it. It just painted cardboard. You think one of them would have wanted to make a bed out of it. They made beds out of everything else in the game.

116792826_621190858806712_860374383102252713_n (resized).jpg117172498_340969040627874_641178515893317004_n (resized).jpg117198802_3189956247752122_707047698110425202_n (resized).jpg116833780_297126624723133_5850091234783550428_n (resized).jpg

Last I took a look at the metal parts that control the air flow coming out of the compressor. They're nasty. The plunger has some pitting but it's not too bad. These are going to go into the evaporust for awhile. The coil looks ok. The wrapper was made into rat bedding a long time ago. I'm going to replace it with the nos one I bought. Not that the old one doesn't work. It probably does, but the nos one will look better

116905643_757188208439279_439847699616601056_n (resized).jpg117174721_2668552333358198_4551819001036422491_n (resized).jpg117193081_3167328596692697_8950690764226185421_n (resized).jpg117287817_871022860092858_2312378976088993098_n (resized).jpg

Compressor

Took some time to make a new bottom for the base. I had some 1/8" poplar leftover from a furniture build I did a couple of years ago. Traced out everything using the original as a template and cut a new one.

117313544_370543993968513_6930287953213360001_n (resized).jpg117773855_2635466690053557_7381362457910875540_n (resized).jpg

Then I took the old base and gave it a fresh coat of paint. I used Rustoleum 2X Flat Black. This will also help seal any lingering smell that the wood has absorbed. And no I didn't break the base. Oddly it is 2 separate pieces. Maybe is was easier to route the channels this way.

117646756_1835000133320670_8585147719571637306_n (resized).jpg

Then I moved onto to tubing that connects all of the compressor parts together. It's a brass plate, a couple of brass tubes, a copper t junction, and a plastic connector.

117717896_232058718016180_6437969901355175090_n (resized).jpg117333538_1172227203160472_571299751590186608_n (resized).jpg117445169_236115200898540_3724372085061235337_n (resized).jpg

This tube is connected to the air intake for the compressor and is where the pellets come into the mech. This is where the pellets are staged while waiting for the trigger to be pulled. If this inner tube wasn't there, there's a chance the pellets would get pulled into the compressor shroud and not go down to the staging area.

117904013_2776029949294711_9058299389843203380_n (resized).jpg

Best way I found to clean this was to screw it into my bench. Then this happened.

117706229_663538991248947_4604713479466119237_n (resized).jpg118070047_642895803015377_2062735442954537120_n (resized).jpg

I thought it was going to happen before I even started on it. There was already a crack in the seam. I'll have to solder that back into place after I'm done cleaning it. All that's left is to do after this is polishing some of the large mech pieces. All of the screws, nuts and misc metal are being tumbled now.

Thank you. It's been a huge pain in the ass

Compressor

Paint is dry on the base so I attached the new bottom I made. The original glue job wasn't very thorough so I'm thinking the whole compressor system doesn't have to be completely air tight. I used lots of glue and clamps to make sure there is a good seal.

117999803_924666801365875_9162349813494450324_n (resized).jpg

Next up was the base plate for the ball mech. Evaporust did a pretty good job but some of the corrosion had to be sanded down with a 3M pad. After sanding and polishing, it was reinstalled.

117951259_240010830461437_416964860504951889_n (resized).jpg118042167_688955208499014_5586816609782944111_n (resized).jpg

Soldered the connector tubing back together after polishing. I'm happy with how it turned out.

117870948_683919148864721_5652615347929008070_n (resized).jpg118182573_336495600808600_8130108133079475133_n (resized).jpg

Compressor

All done. I decided to install the NOS coil I had. The old coil just made the whole thing look terrible. If you look at the side view you can see how the mech works. There is a tube with a rod put through it on the bottom of the plate that slides back and forth. The tube with the rod forms a cup just big enough to hold one pellet. When the rifle trigger is pulled the plate slides back bringing the cup to the output side of the compressor. The air pushes the pellet up and out of the gun. The plate stops the other pellets that are staged in the input side of the compressor from falling out while this happens. The plate is returned and another pellet is loaded in the cup. Here are some before pics for those that don't want to scroll back to see what it used to look it.

68243c6a5b5c7e0cf1d308fb4152e8351262f3a7 (resized).jpg76f31fec4d27aa694700ab750e877727c90061ea (resized).jpg117816810_621699255428870_3534483340242131339_n (resized).jpg117717499_718648085531740_5234751255568467010_n (resized).jpg117965507_1198954627130793_4144766654637865941_n (resized).jpg

I'm having a hard time deciding what to tackle next. Things that are left are:
1) Front of the game wiring (light bulb, coin mech, on/off switch etc)
2) Score Reels
3) Backbox
4) Rifle mount and new rifle stock fabrication
5) Legs and other hardware.
6) Light panel & sealing the backglass

What I liked about the previous parts is that I could work on them and put them away when I wasn't. As soon as I decide to tackle the backbox, I know it's going to take up massive amounts of space since I have to remove everything from it while it's also attached to the score reel assemblies. Decisions decisions...

I've been looking for a new table for my shop. I think a lot of people overlook the fact that the table is a tool. And probably one of the most used tools in their shop. I thought about building a new one, but honestly didn't feel like building another that would fit my needs. I looked into buying one from a big box but they were mostly junk. I've mentioned here before that another hobby of mine is restoring and using vintage machinery and tools. I needed one that was pretty large so I could use it as an assembly table and strong/heavy enough for me to be able to use my vise to it's full potential. The vise weighs in at almost 140 pounds. This morning the perfect storm happened. A welding table at a good price that was an hour away from me popped up for sale. A couple of hours later my new table was home. 5ft x 4ft x 36 inches. 1/4 thick steel plate for the top. 6 inch casters. 540 pounds. I've got to sell a machine and rearrange the shop, but I shouldn't have an problem tackling the backbox on this

IMG_20200822_134610 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200822_134721 (resized).jpg

The guy selling it graciously forklifted it into my truck. Getting it out was much tricker by myself. I used a pulley attached to the ceiling joists in my shop to carefully and slowly drop it out of my truck straight into the shop. I just kept reminding myself to not put any part of my body under it. It was definitely worth the effort.

Lights

I'm still rearranging my shop. I went to install my vice and both of my drill batteries were dead and the corded drill doesn't hold a large enough bit. But I did luck out in a different way. I was browsing Facebook and a guy was selling some light bulbs that he bought for his jukebox. They were the exact bulbs I was looking for but they were amber not clear. I found out where he bought them and what type they were. They are S14 Clear E26 Medium Base 11 Watt. I wanted some vintage bulbs since I'm going vintage bulbs throughout the game. I could put newer bulbs or LED bulbs in but I like the glow of the old ones. That same reason is why I have over 100 vintage GE C9 bulbs for outdoor Christmas lights. Lead paint and all. The old ones cost more but new ones just don't look right and fail at a way higher rate than the old ones. I found a set of 6 vintage Sylvania on Ebay. For comparison, I could buy 3 times as many new bulbs for the same price. I know this isn't exciting for most of you, but this was one of the last few pieces I needed that I haven't been able to put my hands on.

s-l1600 (resized).jpg

Backbox

I didn't forget about this project. A few things came up. I had to rearrange the shop and sell some machinery to make room. Then I had painters here for 2 weeks, and they set up shop in my shop. Then I went to work on it and realized I was out of gloves and disinfectant. But all of that is done and I can get back to work. I took the back panel and score reel assembly out of the cabinet and onto my new table. This table has been the single best addition to my shop.
119451001_1887889391349274_8253209048941597972_n (resized).jpg
First step is to remove everything from the back panel for cleaning. There is dirt and rat fur behind the wire harness, inside relay switches, and it's even behind the paper labels. I wouldn't go this far if there wasn't. After taking 1000 pictures from every possible angle, I removed all the wiring and mechs. I ran into a little issue with the relays wanting to stick to the paper labels, but I persuaded them off.
119600023_425867915052416_6474356051548767716_n (resized).jpg
Then the paper labels. I really didn't want to do this because the paper is so fragile, but you know rat shit.....
119304575_3182677435164756_8656149809383348013_n (resized).jpg119458453_692961647957376_4394257030981640677_n (resized).jpg119713413_607687399916423_9176889608350851754_n (resized).jpg

Then a final wipe down and disinfection
119601552_650766825823517_6610098670019150460_n (resized).jpg

Next I'll be working from the bottom to the top. Starting with replacing the fuse bank and cleaning up the transformer

Back Panel

So starting from the bottom, the fuse block was the first up. Some of the holders have broke, so it needs to be replaced.

IMG_20200918_140204 (resized).jpg

While trying to keep it period correct, I'll be replacing it with this one. All the fuse holders on this one are tight. The metal plate on the back is held on by rivets. Those were drilled out in my vise.

IMG_20200918_140209 (resized).jpg

I just bought these soft jaws for my vise so I could hold this kind of stuff. They are 3D printed tpu with a shore hardness of 95a. They have rare earth magnets embedded in them to hold them on my vise jaws. This was my first time trying them and I really like them. They are just firm enough to hold without damaging.

IMG_20200918_141018 (resized).jpgIMG_20200918_141109 (resized).jpg

Next was the transformer. I don't know what is all over it. I thought for awhile is was just dried lacquer but now I think it's just more crap. The metal standoffs and screws were removed and cleaned. I started cleaning the transformer plates and this is going to take awhile. The crap is down in the grooves between the plates and it's being a pain to get it all out of there. If I leave it, it's going to look horrible. If I decided to paint the transformer, it will look even worse.

IMG_20200918_133142 (resized).jpgIMG_20200918_133150 (resized).jpgIMG_20200918_133159 (resized).jpgIMG_20200918_133213 (resized).jpg

Back Panel

Short update today. I spent some more time cleaning the transformer. I finally got it clean. It was in such poor shape after the cleaning, I decided to paint it.

IMG_20200921_163153 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200921_164147 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200921_170325 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200921_170648 (resized).jpg

Back Panel: Timer Motor

I bet all of you following this restore thought I had finally given up. Not quite. I had a couple of other projects take precedence and this got moved down the queue. But now this one is back in rotation. I decided against tearing down all of the relays. I did one and the juice just wasn't worth the squeeze. I did go over all of them and clean them thoroughly. Working my way through the backbox, the next item is the timer motor. The wires to the motor weren't chewed off they were cut. This made me nervous thinking something was wrong with it and someone had cut the wires trying to figure out the problem. The biggest problem would be if the thing didn't work because I couldn't find another. I popped the assembly out and hooked the leads up to the transformer.....Nothing. Checked my connections and there was a slow spin. After 30 mins, I actually read the front of the motor and realized it ran off 115V. Hooked the lead straight to the input voltage on the transformer and it spun right up.

125211800_5344969985528358_6818781155430280008_n (resized).jpg
124982742_490395408552373_4683478588372924482_n (resized).jpg
125210826_2727836580803703_3739721811532359092_n (resized).jpg
125486800_371040887455538_4618622007884728768_n (resized).jpg

Thanks here's some better pics of the transformer

125111053_380196853096206_6631634508158366416_n (resized).jpg

125211589_371959604140299_2891297797956550057_n (resized).jpg

125433985_702125100411640_6724958752809092738_n (resized).jpg

Time Motor

I finally broke down and bought a new phone. I'm not much of a phone person so I never have the latest and greatest, but it was time for a new one. Hopefully everyone will enjoy the much nicer pictures it takes. I finished the timer motor. I extended the leads on the motor since they were so short and wired it back into the main harness.
PXL_20201130_165546353 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201130_180335220 (resized).jpg

As I was assembling the motor, I thought I'd share how I get walnut media out of these suckers. Lots of these in this game. They are a pain to get all the media out at least for me. I started taking my marking knife and sliding it between the nut and washer. Then I just push the knife back and forth. Hopefully the pics will help it make more sense.
PXL_20201130_164318761 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201130_164355232 (resized).jpg

At this point, I needed to reattach the wiring harness back to the panel. It was becoming too much of a mess with all the components loose. I took the opportunity to replace the fuse block. I was even able to salvage all of the backbox staples and they are being reinstalled. And yes I will be replacing the line cord with a proper 3 prong.
PXL_20201130_175017473 (resized).jpg

Shot Unit

This is the same shot unit as the Midway Deluxe Shooting Gallery. So I'm not going to cover it again. See my previous thread if you are interested in seeing it torn down. The only issue I ran into on this one was I had to replace a wire coming off of the contact board. It had been nibbled on in quite a few places.

PXL_20201130_175900805 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201130_180339868 (resized).jpg

Clown Unit

Next up is the clown unit. The very first thing I noticed when I bought the game was that it was missing part of this stepper. It was missing one of the arms and the spring.
PXL_20201130_180300365 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201130_180312899 (resized).jpg

I bought a Bear Unit for another Midway game last year to strip for parts.
PXL_20201130_180722601 (resized).jpg
This was my second time unpacking the stepper and when I transferred the arm over to my stepper, the arm didn't fit in the plunger. I compared the 2 plungers and they are identical. Expect one of them has a slightly larger groove for the arm.
PXL_20201130_181024111 (resized).jpg
I was also thankful to have a spare screw when I decided to put a little too much oomf into getting this screw out.
PXL_20201130_181202443 (resized).jpg

Clown Unit

I got some time to make some progress on this today. It's been very busy around here with the holidays and the kitchen remodel. The clown unit went back together easy.
PXL_20201231_152439762 (resized).jpgPXL_20201231_152445511 (resized).jpg

I got a new addition in the shop also. I picked up a couple of these Fostoria machine lamps. One went in the garage and one for my shop. I'm really liking the extra light
PXL_20201231_150053691 (resized).jpg

Score Motor

The last large mech in the back box. I'm starting to get a little excited. Teardown was pretty straight forward. Except for the stuck set screw on the cam. Took a lot of coaxing to get it out without destroying it. What made it worse was the whole rim of the cam was coated in grease. At least I hope it was grease. One wire to a switch stack has been eaten and needs a repair. After this one is back together, I'll be moving onto the lightbox and score reels

PXL_20201231_152521765 (resized).jpgPXL_20201231_152530005 (resized).jpgPXL_20201231_152541278 (resized).jpg

Score Motor

The score motor went together without a fight. The chewed up wire was cut and color correct wire was spliced in. If anyone has noticed there aren't any washer between the frames and the backboard and the fact that all the screws aren't in the frame, I'm working on that. The screws in there now are just to keep the assemblies in place. On to the score reels and lightbox

PXL_20210105_205355459 (resized).jpgPXL_20210105_205403275 (resized).jpgPXL_20210105_205407050 (resized).jpgPXL_20210105_210630102 (resized).jpg

AccomplishedInnocentAmericanwarmblood-size_restricted.gif
PXL_20210105_210854652 (resized).jpg

Score Reels Intro

I wasn't looking forward to this part. This is where I believe the king of this particular rat's nest lived presiding over all of his loyal subjects in the Rifle Gallery Kingdom. The main wire loom to the score reels has 12 wires cut. Every light socket has rust. Random rat fur in the wiring. One of the reels has been chewed on. I've already sourced a replacement. There's a big rust spot where I believe the rat king retired during the evenings to take his nightly piss. I was able to salvage the bulbs. Most of which are working. The plan is to work through the reels one at a time. While I'm redoing my kitchen, I have a paint booth and an HVLP gun set up that I'll use to repaint it. I'm going to tear down the light box and see how well it holds together. Last time I did this, the particle board that they used just broke apart everywhere. I spent a lot of time filling and sanding when I should have just built a new one. If the same thing happens, I'm probably going in that direction.

PXL_20201123_214623843 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201123_214625975 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201123_214627673 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201123_215054874 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201123_215101079 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201123_215102753 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201123_215104127 (resized).jpg

PXL_20201123_215105770 (resized).jpg

Score Reel

I'm not going to document each one of these, but I will be showing the differences between the ones for the timer and the ones for the score. There are 5 total. 3 for the score and 2 for the timer. I starting with the ones for the timer and working my way across. This one is probably in the best shape out of all of them. A little rust and someone got very generous with some grease.

PXL_20201231_163134871 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201231_163225173 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201231_163231245 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201231_163234651 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201231_163429332 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201231_164624950 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210104_183821564 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210104_183829850 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210104_183854402 (resized).jpg

Score Reel

Getting a lot accomplished today. Got the score reel back together and wired back into the game. I missing a few of those black clips, but I'm sure they'll turn up.
PXL_20210108_200914617 (resized).jpg

And then started tearing down the next timer reel. You'll notice this one a tad different than the other one. First, it has a jones plug in it. This is for setting the amount of time each game should last. Also, instead of having 2 switches, this one only has 1 switch and a disc with some contacts on it. The first reel only needed 2 switches because it's only job was telling the game if it was at 0 for resetting or 9 to tell the game to step up the next reel. This disc needs to not only step up t keep time but also tell the game when its hit the ma time it should run. That's the purpose of the contact disc. This one has the same issues as the last. Lots of dirt. Lots of grease.
PXL_20210108_200958594 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210108_201122778 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210108_201234465 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210108_201616694 (resized).jpg