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Alright back to the shooting gallery. I've had some time to put the new tumbler through it's paces. I bought this one if anyone wants to know https://www.berrysmfg.com/product/ber-qd-500-vib-tumbler-110v . I really like being able to pop the bowl off. The lock for the base that secures the bowl feels very sturdy. In fact the whole thing feels sturdy. It's much quieter than other tumblers I've seen. I broke it in by running it for 5 days straight only turning it off to check it or switch out parts. I didn't notice any excessive heat or noise from running it this long. I was so impressed with the results I even threw in some parts that I had already polished and finished to see if I could get anymore out of them. I was so excited I forgot to take before pics but the after pics are awesome. Now that I have all the screws tumbled, my next step is to reassemble the duck mech. Also, did you now you could tumble bulbs? I found out about it last week and tossed one in just to see.
I had some time to finally reassemble some mechs. For the duck mech, everything went fine except I got one of the return springs caught. I didn't noticed and pulled it and now I need a new spring. Hopefully one of the springs from a leftover stepper unit I have will work. Getting the chain back on the sprocket ends was the worse part. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to grease the bicycle chain with?
While I was on a roll, I tackled the ball mech. They one didn't go together easily. The first 3 times I assembled it the inner cylinder wouldn't move. I found that I had to be very carefully tightening down the screws to not shift the main casing. A small deviation between the points on either side caused the inner cylinder to jam. The machine tolerances were very tight. 4th time was a charm and the action is smooth as butter.
There is one more mech in the main target and it's the clown. This part was the bane of my existence last time. I swore to never unravel the string off the wheel again The last game this part was easily accessible, but on this game the wheel for the string that pulls the clown back and forth is behind the top scenery.
There are 4 spiral nails in the top holding it in place. There's a plastic channel at the bottom to hold it in place, but the piece has curved and no longer makes contact. I was really hoping not to have to deal with spiral nails in artwork, but I can't see a way to access this part without removing it. To give myself more room to work, I decided to remove the rest of the target from the back. 6 screws attach it to the back and with those removed the entire thing comes off
I dropped the entire thing into my face vise so that I had both hands to get those stupid spiral nails out. This was my best attempt so far at removing these. I'm going to replace them with screws to make servicing the clown motor easier. But now I have a problem. The wheel is held on the motor shaft with a set screw that I can't see and can't really get to. I assume the cut out here is to allow for a screwdriver to get down the the set screw, but it's a tight fit. I assume it's a apn head like the rest of the screws. The shop was getting hot so I called it a day. I'm planning on putting an AC unit in this year. I insulated my shop 2 years ago and while it is about 10 degrees cooler inside, it's still hot.
Main Target Reassembly
Not a big update. I've been busy polishing the main target's frame piece. The large metal plates are obviously too large for my tumbler and hand polishing them has been time consuming. So I started building back up the parts I could while working on the big plates. First section to reassemble was the clown motor. I didn't like the motor hanging all the time. Here are some before and after pics.
I had to take a break from polishing. I'm working on the rails that the balls ride on. While working on them, I spliced my thumb wide open on an edge. Almost needed stitches, but there was no way I was walking into a hospital right now with everything going on. I had been keeping the art for the game on top of a very tall cabinet in my shop. There's isn't a lot of places to put things in the house where no one can get to them. I was in the cabinet the other day and some of the art fell when I shut the door. Luckily, no damage, but it reminded me it was past time to clean them up, scan them, and store them in a better place.
I had heard that you could use cheap white bread to clean the cardboard and score reels that shouldn't have liquids on them. So I figured I'd try it.
Didn't work. Maybe my bread isn't cheap enough?! I'm still going to try it on the score reels when I get to them. A light wipe down with a minimally damp paper towel got a lot of it off. I had to be careful on the edges and where the nails used to be. This was my most successful spiral nail removal to date. No real damage other than where the nail head was. The art is in really nice condition and the edges that have issues are mostly covered when installed in the game.
Next was the two side pieces that frame the main target. I've not really messed with them until now. They were a pain to remove and were one of the first things I removed since they were in such good condition. Here are some before and after cleaning pics. I'm marking some of these photos as NSFW since they may be offensive to some people. You have been warned. I don't want to get PM's saying you looked at them and were offended. The pig in the clown's arms cracks me up. Now they are clean and picture ready, I'll be scanning them in as insurance and putting them with the backglass where they won't be messed with.
So I found a post on here where the OP was having the exact same issue I was having with my evaporust. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/evaporust. According to Evaporust, it might be lead contaminant. I bought a new jug of Evaporust to test with. I dropped some screws in and let them sit. No reaction. Then I knocked off a piece of junk off of one of the screws. The evaporust instantly turned a cloudy yellow, and if I had left the parts in there would probably resulted in the same thing. The junk could be anything but it definitely wasn't a junk of lead. Probably something rat related. Moral of the story is I need to clean my parts a lot better before dropping them in Evaporust. I would go with vinegar but I don't have time to watch it and baby it to make sure it doesn't eat through the plating. Same with CLR. I tried to use CLR in my last project and I can't get past the fumes.
****End Evaporust Update****
Hand polishing is grueling with these large parts. This is one of the ball trails. The U plastic channel is cracked and either I'll source a replacement or turn it around to have the damage on the backside. If I turn it around it wont get shot at anymore, but the ball will hit it when the ball is shot and falls out the back and that might cause issues. I'm getting close to being able to reassemble the main target and fixing the electrical issues I've found. So many parts!!
My thumb's doing better so I got some more polishing in. The main target is finally torn all the way down. I didn't take a lot of pictures that aren't reference photos for when I put it back together. It felt good getting the last few piece apart. I started cleaning on of the last plates. I've decided to change my cleaning strategy. What worked for my last restore just isn't working on this one despite the metal being in similar condition. I've found the best method of these parts is to degrease them while rinsing them in very hot water. Working everything with a soft bristle brush. When I'm polishing I'll still find areas that are still dirty. Even though I think they're clean, the Mother's Mag won't turn black when making contact. That just means I haven't cleaned down to actual metal which is hard to tell with all the discoloration. It's taking longer to polish but the plating looks to be in better condition and I don't have to burn through Evaporust if something from the game gets into it. After I'm done I take a red scotch brite pad to all of the edges. The first 2 pics are after I degreased and cleaned it. The first pic I polished part of it to get a good comparison. Total time spent: 1 hour spread over 3 days. I don't have a lot of continuous time to work on this project. I get it in where I can.
I got a chance to scan in all the artwork. My home printer is fairly new, and I was excited to see how it scanned. I expected a little higher resolution, but the colors were 100% spot on. The top audience art and the bottom camp art are both warped and the scans didn't come out great. I don't want to remove the camp because I'm tired of fighting with spiral nails. I doubt they will flatten out even if I did put them into some sort of press.
I finally had to replace the tumbler media. I got a good 80% of the target metal tumbled before having to switch it out. It still amaze me how clean it gets things. The below picture was from my last game and I thought it looked really good back then.......fast forward to this restore and there is no comparison. The last of the target parts are in the tumbler. I'm working on getting media out of the screws from the last batch, and I have 1 more ball guide to hand polish. Then I can reassemble. I had planned to assemble it in stages, but it makes more sense to reassemble it all in one go.
Without further ado, the reassembly begins. I chucked the main target back into the face vise on my table. This way I could work on the front and back without holding it. I didn't want to put it on it back since the motor is there. I planned to do this all at once, but of course that didn't happen. 2 hours in and I got pretty far. I realized I still need to learn to take more pictures. A lot of guess work and zooming in on blurry pics. I'm not trying to freak out, but I'm missing a piece. It's not a large piece and could be fabricated if necessary, but I'd rather find the thing. I've got the clown assembly and ball assembly done. Just have to get the duck assembly back in and do some wiring work.
I thought I had bent one of the plates while cleaning it, and I was trying to figure out the best way to straighten it. Then I held it up to the target and had a good laugh. Instead of routing the extra wood out, the factory just bent the plate to fit.
Man, this just looks amazing seeing all of the clean metal being put back together. I bet it's cleaner now than when it was originally assembled.
Quoted from yaksplat:
Man, this just looks amazing seeing all of the clean metal being put back together. I bet it's cleaner now than when it was originally assembled.
Thank you for the kind words. I don't know if it looks that good, but it does look 1000x better than when I started.
I found the piece I was missing. Even though it's a small piece, it's necessary. The piece sits on the end of the last ball trail. If you miss the ball target, the ball rolls to the end and hits this piece that guides it to the back of the lower blue plastic. The lower blue plastic isn't just to feed the pellets you are shooting down to the return trough. It's curved to also guide the ball targets back into the blast gate trough to be sent back up. While working on these games, the ingenuity for the time still blows me away sometimes.
I took the coils and gave them a quick check to make sure they work before reinstalling. Cleared out all the old solder while I was at it. I finished installing the coil and switch for the clown target reset and the coil for the ball target blast gate. I had to remove the blast gate because the inner cylinder was sticking. The return spring didn't have enough tension to reset the gate. I'm finding this part to be one of the more finicky things on this machine. It seems like any friction on the inner cylinder makes it to where the spring can't reset it. After playing with it some more, I got it working. Installed it and it started doing the same thing. Did this 2 more times until it was reliably resetting. I have a couple of things left to do. Resolder the ball switches on the back, rewire a couple of pins on the jones plug, and lastly install the duck mech into the main target. The last one I'm not looking forward to. It really tight space to wire everything up with not a lot of wire length. I'm thinking about running new wire to the mech and splicing it into the old wiring. This will let me wire up everything before I install it. The it will be just matching up the new to old wiring.
It's been awhile, but I've been busy with work, family, etc. and haven't really had time to work on this. But I've started carving out some of my lunch break to work on the game. I went to reinstall the duck mech motor, but first it needed to be repaired. Part of the bakelite on the coil broke off. This left one of the coil leads hanging. I don't have the piece and instead of trying to fashion something, I decided to just hot glue the wire in place. I don't think the coil will ever get hot enough to melt it, but if it does I'll probably just wrap some electrical tape around it.
After the repair, I decided to test the motor before install. The duck mech is hard to get to once the while target is assembled. The motor is even harder to get to. The motor itself has metal shielding on all side to stop pellets from falling into the open frame. So, I tore the transformer out of the back of the game, found a random 2 prong power cord I had, and wired it up. This is actually the first time I've put power to the game. It came to me with a destroyed power cord and I never bothered replacing it to try the game. I didn't see the point. It was nice to hear a quiet hum coming from the transformer as I plugged it in.
**Disclaimer** Do not try this at home. None of these wires are actually attached, no fuses, quick, dirty , but potentially dangerous.
The motor tested fine. It just needed some lubrication. I popped the motor into the duck mech frame. Did a few adjustments and it ran fine. Here is a video of my test. Not the best video, but it's my first time trying to take a video during a restore. The duck reset in the back and ran smooth in the track. Progress!
Main Target Finished
Finally done. I rewired a section for the ball drop leaf switches and part of the jones plug that rats had got to. I used color correct cloth wire from the harness I bought and feed it into the existing harness. I'm not going to reinstall the artwork until final assembly. Here are some glamour shots.
Next up is the compressor. I haven't looked at this assembly since I pulled it from the cabinet. I pulled it and put it straight into a box that has sat inside the game since. It actually looks better than I remember.
Other than the staining from the rats the base is in good condition. The bottom needs to be replaced. When I went to pry it off to take a look inside, the bottom was very soft. I'm surprised it came off in one piece.
With the bottom off, you can see how the airflow is controlled and used. The blue arrow is where the air is pulled in to the compressor. The hole to the right provides the suction for the tube that returns the pellets from the back of the game. The red arrow is where the compressor pushes air out to. The middle hole is used to push the pellet up and out of the gun. The C shaped hole to the provides air to the ball lift in the main target.
I cleaned off all the old glue and wiped down the base. It will be getting a new coat of paint after the bottom is installed.
With the compressor off the base, I looked it over before plugging it in. This thing is immaculate. No real dust or debris to speak of. This helps reaffirm my suspicion that this game wasn't routed for long or played all that much. These compressors are pretty much unobtanium. I've seen one for sale once. I have seen some guys hack a harbor freight compressor for air brushed to work. With how clean it was, I confidently hooked leads up to it and it spun right up. I'm very happy to not have to send it out for repair.
I cleaned the compressor housing after. It amazes me that the rats didn't get to it. It just painted cardboard. You think one of them would have wanted to make a bed out of it. They made beds out of everything else in the game.
Last I took a look at the metal parts that control the air flow coming out of the compressor. They're nasty. The plunger has some pitting but it's not too bad. These are going to go into the evaporust for awhile. The coil looks ok. The wrapper was made into rat bedding a long time ago. I'm going to replace it with the nos one I bought. Not that the old one doesn't work. It probably does, but the nos one will look better
Took some time to make a new bottom for the base. I had some 1/8" poplar leftover from a furniture build I did a couple of years ago. Traced out everything using the original as a template and cut a new one.
Then I took the old base and gave it a fresh coat of paint. I used Rustoleum 2X Flat Black. This will also help seal any lingering smell that the wood has absorbed. And no I didn't break the base. Oddly it is 2 separate pieces. Maybe is was easier to route the channels this way.
Then I moved onto to tubing that connects all of the compressor parts together. It's a brass plate, a couple of brass tubes, a copper t junction, and a plastic connector.
This tube is connected to the air intake for the compressor and is where the pellets come into the mech. This is where the pellets are staged while waiting for the trigger to be pulled. If this inner tube wasn't there, there's a chance the pellets would get pulled into the compressor shroud and not go down to the staging area.
Best way I found to clean this was to screw it into my bench. Then this happened.
I thought it was going to happen before I even started on it. There was already a crack in the seam. I'll have to solder that back into place after I'm done cleaning it. All that's left is to do after this is polishing some of the large mech pieces. All of the screws, nuts and misc metal are being tumbled now.
It looks like that solder joint was badly repaired before. The other one might be suspect as well. I'd remove both, completely clean the surfaces and resolder.
The mother's does a great job.
Paint is dry on the base so I attached the new bottom I made. The original glue job wasn't very thorough so I'm thinking the whole compressor system doesn't have to be completely air tight. I used lots of glue and clamps to make sure there is a good seal.
Next up was the base plate for the ball mech. Evaporust did a pretty good job but some of the corrosion had to be sanded down with a 3M pad. After sanding and polishing, it was reinstalled.
Soldered the connector tubing back together after polishing. I'm happy with how it turned out.
All done. I decided to install the NOS coil I had. The old coil just made the whole thing look terrible. If you look at the side view you can see how the mech works. There is a tube with a rod put through it on the bottom of the plate that slides back and forth. The tube with the rod forms a cup just big enough to hold one pellet. When the rifle trigger is pulled the plate slides back bringing the cup to the output side of the compressor. The air pushes the pellet up and out of the gun. The plate stops the other pellets that are staged in the input side of the compressor from falling out while this happens. The plate is returned and another pellet is loaded in the cup. Here are some before pics for those that don't want to scroll back to see what it used to look it.
I'm having a hard time deciding what to tackle next. Things that are left are:
1) Front of the game wiring (light bulb, coin mech, on/off switch etc)
2) Score Reels
4) Rifle mount and new rifle stock fabrication
5) Legs and other hardware.
6) Light panel & sealing the backglass
What I liked about the previous parts is that I could work on them and put them away when I wasn't. As soon as I decide to tackle the backbox, I know it's going to take up massive amounts of space since I have to remove everything from it while it's also attached to the score reel assemblies. Decisions decisions...
I've been looking for a new table for my shop. I think a lot of people overlook the fact that the table is a tool. And probably one of the most used tools in their shop. I thought about building a new one, but honestly didn't feel like building another that would fit my needs. I looked into buying one from a big box but they were mostly junk. I've mentioned here before that another hobby of mine is restoring and using vintage machinery and tools. I needed one that was pretty large so I could use it as an assembly table and strong/heavy enough for me to be able to use my vise to it's full potential. The vise weighs in at almost 140 pounds. This morning the perfect storm happened. A welding table at a good price that was an hour away from me popped up for sale. A couple of hours later my new table was home. 5ft x 4ft x 36 inches. 1/4 thick steel plate for the top. 6 inch casters. 540 pounds. I've got to sell a machine and rearrange the shop, but I shouldn't have an problem tackling the backbox on this
Quoted from RCA1:
Holy hernia, Batman!
Awesome work surface.
The guy selling it graciously forklifted it into my truck. Getting it out was much tricker by myself. I used a pulley attached to the ceiling joists in my shop to carefully and slowly drop it out of my truck straight into the shop. I just kept reminding myself to not put any part of my body under it. It was definitely worth the effort.
I'm still rearranging my shop. I went to install my vice and both of my drill batteries were dead and the corded drill doesn't hold a large enough bit. But I did luck out in a different way. I was browsing Facebook and a guy was selling some light bulbs that he bought for his jukebox. They were the exact bulbs I was looking for but they were amber not clear. I found out where he bought them and what type they were. They are S14 Clear E26 Medium Base 11 Watt. I wanted some vintage bulbs since I'm going vintage bulbs throughout the game. I could put newer bulbs or LED bulbs in but I like the glow of the old ones. That same reason is why I have over 100 vintage GE C9 bulbs for outdoor Christmas lights. Lead paint and all. The old ones cost more but new ones just don't look right and fail at a way higher rate than the old ones. I found a set of 6 vintage Sylvania on Ebay. For comparison, I could buy 3 times as many new bulbs for the same price. I know this isn't exciting for most of you, but this was one of the last few pieces I needed that I haven't been able to put my hands on.
I didn't forget about this project. A few things came up. I had to rearrange the shop and sell some machinery to make room. Then I had painters here for 2 weeks, and they set up shop in my shop. Then I went to work on it and realized I was out of gloves and disinfectant. But all of that is done and I can get back to work. I took the back panel and score reel assembly out of the cabinet and onto my new table. This table has been the single best addition to my shop.
First step is to remove everything from the back panel for cleaning. There is dirt and rat fur behind the wire harness, inside relay switches, and it's even behind the paper labels. I wouldn't go this far if there wasn't. After taking 1000 pictures from every possible angle, I removed all the wiring and mechs. I ran into a little issue with the relays wanting to stick to the paper labels, but I persuaded them off.
Then the paper labels. I really didn't want to do this because the paper is so fragile, but you know rat shit.....
Then a final wipe down and disinfection
Next I'll be working from the bottom to the top. Starting with replacing the fuse bank and cleaning up the transformer
So starting from the bottom, the fuse block was the first up. Some of the holders have broke, so it needs to be replaced.
While trying to keep it period correct, I'll be replacing it with this one. All the fuse holders on this one are tight. The metal plate on the back is held on by rivets. Those were drilled out in my vise.
I just bought these soft jaws for my vise so I could hold this kind of stuff. They are 3D printed tpu with a shore hardness of 95a. They have rare earth magnets embedded in them to hold them on my vise jaws. This was my first time trying them and I really like them. They are just firm enough to hold without damaging.
Next was the transformer. I don't know what is all over it. I thought for awhile is was just dried lacquer but now I think it's just more crap. The metal standoffs and screws were removed and cleaned. I started cleaning the transformer plates and this is going to take awhile. The crap is down in the grooves between the plates and it's being a pain to get it all out of there. If I leave it, it's going to look horrible. If I decided to paint the transformer, it will look even worse.
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