(Topic ID: 256360)

Midway Rife Gallery Restore - Previous Rat Mansion


By edward472

6 months ago



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  • 99 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by edward472
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    There are 99 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 6 months ago

    While starting to restore my Midway Deluxe Shooting Gallery ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/midway-deluxe-shooting-gallery-restore ), I had done a lot of research on these types of games. I had seen the page on pinrepair about the Midway Rife Gallery. I had heard about this machine before, but there was even less about it online than the Deluxe Shooting Gallery. I found 1 grainy video of it playing, 1 old Ebay listing, 1 page on Arcade Museum, and 1 page on PinRepair. That was it. It's the rarest of the Midway compressor games, and I never expected to find one. Browsing Facebook one day and there it was for sale. It had been up for sale for a couple of days and I assumed someone else must have seen it and snatched it up. But I figured I'd at least shoot the seller a message on the off chance it was still available. A couple of messages back and forth and it was mine. I didn't ask too many question in my excitement, but I don't think anything would prepare me for what was inside this game.

    This is going to be a slower restore than my last one. I'm going to be working on this as time permits, and since this one is going into my collection, I'll be thoroughly going through it.

    #2 6 months ago

    Initial Assessment

    Here are some pics from before I got the game.Looks pretty good right?

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    I had Bob Cunningham drop the game off. Everyone comments on how large these games are. I didn't feel that way about it until I had 2 of them in my shop. Having to navigate around them became painful quickly. Everything is there. It even had the often missing clown. I unwrapped the game, opened the back door, and then quickly shut it. I consider myself to have a strong stomach, but the smell of ammonia almost knocked me over. Braving the smell one more time I opened the front door and everything became clear.

    Rats..The entire game was filled with the largest rats nest I had ever seen. The inside of the cabinet was full top to bottom left to right of leaves, droppings, scraps of newspaper, and wiring. This is a picture after I had removed half of the nest in the cabinet
    20190811_154617 (resized).jpg

    The previous tenants had lived in the cabinet, in the backbox, in the open motors, they even lived in the wire forms around the bulbs.

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    #3 6 months ago

    Initial Assessment

    I had to clear out the nest to see what I was actually working with and to help with the smell. I took off the marquee and removed the glass sides. Then I had to removed the main target and the floor of the interior of the game.
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    I filled a 40 gallon trashcan with rat nest/shit. While clearing the main cabinet I found all the screws for the legs and a package of NOS balls.

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    #4 6 months ago

    Initial Assessment

    With the cabinet emptied of the nest, I could clearly see what need to be done.

    1) The wiring harness from the backbox to the front of the game needs to be repaired. Rats chewed through it. Luckily, they didn't disconnect any wires in the front of the game or eat them. They just cut them. I assume to be able to access the back of the game easier.
    2) A couple of the relays are missing wires to one of their lugs.
    3) An armature is missing from the clown stepper unit.
    4) Some wires have been detached from some of the stepper units.
    5) Some wires have been cut on the Jones plug that connects the main target to the backbox
    6) All wires have been cut from the skill rating lights behind the backglass
    8 ) General rust and corrosion
    9) The entire cabinet and all the mechs, switches, etc need to be cleaned from the rats making nests.
    10) All the vacuum tubing and the cardboard tube running to the main target need to be replaced
    10) The most challenging problem is the rifle. Thankfully the mechanism is all there or I wouldn't have even bothered buying the game, but the stock was broken off at some point. I'll have to source a new stock and mill it to fit the mechanism.
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    #5 6 months ago

    Initial Assessment

    After going through the game, I wasn't feeling too good about the project. So, I decided to stop focusing on the problems and focus on the good.

    1) The cabinet is in great condition. A couple of gouges here and there but it solid. The artwork is well preserved. It's not perfect, but I've seen worse cabinets.
    2) The plexi in the front is in great shape. No cracks or missing pieces. The plexi in the front is a custom shape. The arch in the plexi allows for a similar curved piece of plexi attached to the front of the rifle to ride inside of it. Between this and the chain attaching the rifle to the cabinet, it limits the amount of movement from the rifle.
    3) The backglass is in amazing condition. The backglass is plexiglass. I thought with rats literally living and sleeping next to it that I would be in rough shape. There area couple of small pricks of paint missing and a few spider flaking parts no bigger than the head of an eraser. I give it a 9.5/10. It will need to be sealed.
    4) This game came out of an operators building in my home state about an hour from where I live. I only found 2 tax stickers on the game. One from 1965 and one from 1966. There is a strong chance this game was only on route for 2 years before the rifle stock snapped off and someone shoved it into storage. The reason I say this is the condition of the main target and the condition of pellets/target balls. There is minimal wear on the pellets and the main target graphics show little signs of being shot at. I see no reason to reproduce them like I did on my last project. Even the duck targets still have all of their paint and show little signs of being hit.
    5) There were about 40 pellets in the game and 6 red target balls. The game only needs 20-25 pellets and 4 red target balls.
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    #6 6 months ago

    You’re a brave man. It looks like it will be a project with a very big reward. This is interesting. I’ll be following.

    #7 6 months ago

    Following this one too!

    #8 6 months ago

    Big project ahead, looking forward to how you tackle this!

    #9 6 months ago
    Quoted from Silverstreak02:

    You’re a brave man. It looks like it will be a project with a very big reward. This is interesting. I’ll be following.

    I'm hoping so. I really think it's a diamond in the rough

    Quoted from dsuperbee:

    Following this one too!

    Thanks. It should be fun

    Quoted from dudah:

    Big project ahead, looking forward to how you tackle this!

    Like my boss says, "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time."

    #10 6 months ago

    I can almost smell it from here..... But once you get done, it will be very rewarding!

    #11 6 months ago

    Sourcing Missing Parts

    I didn't have to go into this for my last game since everything was there, but for this game I needed to source some parts. This took me about 2 months. Finding parts for these games is a pain in the butt. Hopefully the info below will help someone in the future who's looking for parts. Some game specific parts you aren't going to find like the gun or the clown. I've spent a lot of time looking for a clown on my last project. Everyone knows about PBR, Marco, etc for parts, but for stuff like this, you need to go to a few lesser know places.For this game, here is what was needed/missing

    1) 10 cent coin mech

    These aren't the easiest to find. You can buy them from Crow River Trading(http://www.crowriver.com/ps/coinslides3.htm), but with shipping it would come out to about $54.00. I wasn't willing to pay that. I bought mine from Ebay seller: nabours. At the time I'm writing this, they have 1 more 10c coin mech. The one I received from them was packed really well and looked almost NOS. I tested it and it worked flawlessly. 10/10 would buy from them again.

    2) Armature for one of the stepper units

    I found what looked to be the correct armature at PBR (http://www.pbresource.com/special.html) listed as Midway Drive Arm and Pawl Assembly MWY-S6, but I couldn't verify that was the one I needed. The stepper unit in this game is the same stepper unit for the bear in a Midway Shooting Gallery. So, I bought the Bear control unit from http://www.rempinball.com/. He has some odds and ends for these types of games. I was more than I wanted to spend, but supply and demand..

    3) The ball load coil V23-900

    It's not missing, but it's been submerged in poop. It should still work,but I wanted to be safe. Also, this game unlike the others of the same type needs 2 ball load coils V23-900. One is for releasing the ball out of the gun, but the other is for the main target. If you look at the 3rd pic in the second post here,you'll see a tube on the left side. The tube is used to push a red ball from the base to the top of the main target using the air from the compressor. When the switch at the bottom of the zig zag in the main target is tripped by the ball, the blast gate at the back of the main target open and propels another ball to the top. Unlike other the other games, the compressor is always on in this game. Since this coil is critical to the game working, I set out to find one...and couldn't. Weeks later a parts dealer I had done business with before messaged me and surprisingly found one... a NOS one. The dealer is oldtomcat on Ebay(ebay.com link). He used to be an operator and has tons of NOS motors. If you don't see something listed, shoot him a message and he'll check for you. Really nice guy.

    4) New cloth wire

    I wanted to keep the machine as original as possible down to the wiring. too-many-pins had help me find some switches for my last game. When I heard Skip was selling the business, I contacted him about these parts. He's super knowledgeable and while I'm happy that he sold the business, I'll miss doing business with him. He told me that the color combination for the wiring in my game was only used for a short amount of time. He wound up selling me an entire wiring harness from a Bally woodrail from the same era. I'll try to get a picture of it. It's massive with color correct wiring for my game. I don't think I'll need cloth wire ever again. Side note: another good place to find cloth wire is on Ebay. It's used by musicians that like the vintage wire for amps, but it's usually sold in spools of single color combinations.
    20191127_151848 (resized).jpg

    5) Fuse Block

    The fuse clips were at their end of life. I had stolen a couple of fuses from this game when troubleshooting the other game. Every fuse I removed the clips broke. I could have replaced it with a modern fuse block, but where is the fun in that? Skip came through again. One of the things I liked about him was that when you needed 1 item, he sold you 5 of them. I needed some wire, he sold me an entire harness. I needed 1 fuse block, he sold me 19. There was a reason he did this. He told me he had sat down one day and calculated the minimum amount he needed to put on each order just to break even. And that was the minimum amount he had to sell on each order to not lose money. He wasn't doing this to get rich. He genuinely enjoyed helping people bring their games back to life. I ended up with 2 5 position fuse blocks and a ton of single fuse blocks all loaded with vintage fuses.

    6) Rifle Stock

    I did a lot of research to try to find an exact make and model of the rifle used. Most everyone told me to use a Remington 22 stock. The issue was the original stock on the game didn't have a notch for the bolt action like the 22 rifles had. I even went as far as reading through a book that showed every gun Remington made. The only conclusion I could come to is that Midway bought solid blank stocks from Remingtion that weren't milled,and then Midway did all the milling. Which makes sense. Why would Remington mill the stocks to accept their hardware, if they were just going to sell them to Midway. It would have been cheaper just to sell them blank stocks. I ended up buying a Remington 514 stock from Ebay for $30. The finish is trashed. I didn't want to buy a nice stock since I'm assuming I won't mill it correctly the first time and this one will be practice. My other hobby is woodworking. I have a full woodworking shop with all the necessary machines to mill the replacement stock, but I've never done anything like this. Should be a good learning experience.

    7) Schematics
    PBR didn't have schematics for the game. They even had me check my spelling twice since they didn't have anything about the game. It's one of the few games they don't have schematics for. I ended up buying them from pinballmike.com.

    8 ) Pics of a properly wired game
    The schematics helped with how to wire some of the chewed wires, but not all of them. So, I started hunting for people with this game to see if anyone could provide pictures of a working game. I found 6 people. That's not to say there isn't more, but that was all I could fine on the internet. 1 guy here on Pinside. 2 guys in one of my Facebook groups. Vintage Coin-Op Restorations has/had 2 of them. A now closed business in Arizona had one. Luckily, one of the guys in my Facebook group took some time and sent me photos of all the parts of his machine. This was huge and will prove to be invaluable! This will take a lot of the guesswork out of which wire goes where.

    9) Bulbs
    The bulbs in the game are replacements and they are broke anyway. My last game had the original Edison bulbs in it. As much as I wanted to keep them for this game, I ended up selling them with the last game. I haven't been able to find more. Here is a picture of the old bulbs. If anyone can identify them or tell me where to find some, please let me know
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    #12 6 months ago

    Restoration Plan

    I've been giving this project a lot of thought before starting. I want an original fully working machine. My intent for this project is not a straight off the production line kind of restore. My plan is to get it fully working while keeping the original paint, backglass, scenery, etc intact. I want to keep it as original as possible. Here is the tentative plan:

    1) Remove, Clean, and Seal Backglass
    2) Clean and Seal Cabinet
    3) Replace Damaged Wiring
    4) Clean/Adjust all relays, steppers, etc.
    5) Fabricate New Gun Stock
    6) Reassemble

    #13 6 months ago

    Backglass

    Anything that I have covered in my previous restore that is identical to this machine I won't be going over again, but I will make a note that the information is in the previous restore thread. Accessing the backglass is exactly the same as my previous game, so I'm not going to go through that again. It's getting cold here, and even though this machine has sat in a non climate controlled area for years, I don't want anymore damage done to the backglass.

    I love the artwork on this backglass. There is so much detail.
    20191126_165601 (resized).jpg

    Here are some of the flaking areas
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    And this is the back. There is rat pee and poop all over it. There is also leftover rubber from the lightbox stuck to it.
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    The same process as the last restore is used to clean it. Just water and q tips. I'm using safety q tips that are used for small children. The swab is larger and there's less of a chance that the stick part with protrude and scratch something. This should give you an idea of how dirty it is
    20191126_170529 (resized).jpg

    Cleaning this was more difficult than last time. I had to be careful with the specks of poop. I didn't want to drag them while cleaning the glass and wind up scratching the paint. I had to constantly hold the glass up to a light to be able to tell if the speck was poop or flaking paint. My goal was to remove all the rat excrement and to clean where to bulbs will shine through. Attempting to get this fully clean is impossible. Take for instance this section of the woman's wrist
    20191126_174113 (resized).jpg
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    If I kept scrubbing at this section, the paint will come off. I'd rather have this than a whole junk of the paint missing. Speaking of whole junks of paint missing.....
    20191126_174043 (resized).jpg

    While cleaning I didn't see the slightly lifted area on top of the 9, and it came right off. I kicked myself for awhile, but the backglass wasn't perfect to begin with. I called it a day on cleaning the glass. It will need another round of cleaning before it's sealed. I just need to shake off this mishap first before I'm confident enough to finish cleaning it.

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    #14 6 months ago

    "poop specks"

    Not really something that's fun to run into. This will be an awesome machine when you have it finished. I'm jealous except for the smell. I can smell those pictures.

    #15 6 months ago

    Cabinet Cleaning

    I won't feel comfortable working on this machine much less having it in my home until it's been thoroughly cleaned. I plan to clean the exterior of the cabinet first and then remove everything from the cabinet to clean the inside. I feel like once I separate the back panel from the cabinet that is the point of no return for this restore.

    I start to clean the outside of the cabinet I'm using Simple Green and a melamine sponge. I tested a small area of the back panel and it worked pretty well. For some reason all of the white paint on the cabinet is covered in a yellow/brown film. I'm guessing it's hardened cigarette smoke. There is discoloration all over the cabinet. Some of it came off with cleaning, but some of it might just be discoloration from age. I know I keep harping on how filthy this thing is, but these pics should really drive it home.

    See the black edge here. I thought that there was no paint there. After a little scrubbing, it revealed paint. That's how thick the dirt is.
    20191129_152241 (resized).jpg

    Here are some before and afters
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    On this last picture, you can see an issue I'm having with this cabinet. For some reason, they painted the white over the red. Some of the white paint, especially on the marquee, is almost chalk like now. If you clean it too vigorously, it spreads to the surrounding red and the white starts to become pink from the red under it bleeding through. I've done 1 round of cleaning, but like the backglass I think it will need a second round.

    20191129_152523 (resized).jpg
    #16 5 months ago

    Did you ever find a source for the rubber tubing that runs from the back to the front of the game?

    #17 5 months ago
    Quoted from dsuperbee:

    Did you ever find a source for the rubber tubing that runs from the back to the front of the game?

    Interestingly enough I've found a few places selling corrugated vacuum tubing. Mostly restaurant supply companies. I'll definitely link it here when I buy some since the tubing in this game is too far gone to salvage.

    #18 5 months ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    Interestingly enough I've found a few places selling corrugated vacuum tubing. Mostly restaurant supply companies. I'll definitely link it here when I buy some since the tubing in this game is too far gone to salvage.

    I found some on eBay before but can’t locate the pink right now. Does it need to be corrugated? What’s the benefit? Why not just vinyl tubing from Home Depot?

    #19 5 months ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    I found some on eBay before but can’t locate the pink right now. Does it need to be corrugated? What’s the benefit? Why not just vinyl tubing from Home Depot?

    I think it helps maintain the critical ID dimension for balls to rapidly flow through. On another link for these Midway shooters someone posted a link to the correct replacement hose.

    #20 5 months ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    I found some on eBay before but can’t locate the pink right now. Does it need to be corrugated? What’s the benefit? Why not just vinyl tubing from Home Depot?

    Quoted from Yelobird:

    I think it helps maintain the critical ID dimension for balls to rapidly flow through. On another link for these Midway shooters someone posted a link to the correct replacement hose.

    Yelobird is correct about the corrugation keeping the hose ID constant when pressure is applied from the compressor. I don't think it would be too critical for the hose that returns the balls to the compressor, but for the hose going from the compressor to the gun, the ID should be constant. Even if I could find some vinyl tubing at HD, I'd still go with the corrugated for the same reason I bought this many fuses just to replace the original fuse block. Try to keep components originalish..
    s-l1600 (resized).jpg

    #21 5 months ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    Interestingly enough I've found a few places selling corrugated vacuum tubing. Mostly restaurant supply companies. I'll definitely link it here when I buy some since the tubing in this game is too far gone to salvage.

    Thank you!

    The stuff in my grandmas is rotting, and its causing all sorts of issues.

    #22 5 months ago
    Quoted from dsuperbee:

    Thank you!
    The stuff in my grandmas is rotting, and its causing all sorts of issues.

    I harvested my gun from a similar style compressor game (Exidy Troll) and it had clear vinyl tubing.
    While I respect people keeping things original, I'm an engineer and a firm believer in using the best tools you have available to you.
    You couldn't pay me to put those old fuse blocks on a game that's in my house!

    #23 5 months ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    I harvested my gun from a similar style compressor game (Exidy Troll) and it had clear vinyl tubing.
    While I respect people keeping things original, I'm an engineer and a firm believer in using the best tools you have available to you.
    You couldn't pay me to put those old fuse blocks on a game that's in my house!

    As a fellow engineer, I get where you're coming from, and in almost every other aspect of my life I'm right there with you about best tools. But my hobbies are my decompressing time away from my career. I like to turn that part of my brain off that says "You can improve upon this" or "I wonder if I can streamline that". Because that becomes a slippery slope where I'd end up ripping out all the electronics out of this game and replacing it all with a Rasberry PI running custom software to emulate the game logic . I have a soft spot for vintage electronics, machinery, and tools and love using them and keeping them original as possible as long as there are no safety concerns in doing so. Case in point, I just bought this project 1938 Parks Planer because I needed a planer for my shop. Who in their right mind would buy this instead of a modern lunchbox style planer from a big box store? This guy

    78659305_10214287949941364_3968548828021260288_o (resized).jpg
    #24 5 months ago

    Wow! That's a beast. It makes my 13" Rockwell look tiny.

    Planer - Rockwell 22-101 (resized).JPG
    #25 5 months ago
    Quoted from yaksplat:

    Wow! That's a beast. It makes my 13" Rockwell look tiny.[quoted image]

    That's a nice looking machine. We better stop now before this thread get derailed with pics of my hand plane collection.

    #26 5 months ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    That's a nice looking machine. We better stop now before this thread get derailed with pics of my hand plane collection.

    I'm starting an off topic thread of woodworking tools. I'll be dropping a link in here.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woodworking-tools-show-them-off#post-5340077

    #27 5 months ago

    ebay.com link

    Seem right?

    #28 5 months ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    ebay.com link
    Seem right?

    I got to look into that as an option. I was thinking more like this
    amazon.com link »

    I think it would be cool to see the ball moving through.

    #29 5 months ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    ebay.com link
    Seem right?

    I like that setup if its the correct size! Thanks

    #30 5 months ago

    An assist for those as Cheap as me. I went to that Salem Specially Ball to get a quote and they wanted dam near $2 per ball. Hell no! Found these nylon balls used for paintball practice on Amazon for pennies. Available in different colors. Weight is spot on exact and the diameter is within .001". Bought a bag of 100 for a lifetime of spares. Made from the same nylon.

    amazon.com link »
    IMG_4427 (resized).jpg

    #31 5 months ago
    Quoted from Yelobird:

    An assist for those as Cheap as me. I went to that Salem Specially Ball to get a quote and they wanted dam near $2 per ball. Hell no! Found these nylon balls used for paintball practice on Amazon for pennies. Available in different colors. Weight is spot on exact and the diameter is within .001". Bought a bag of 100 for a lifetime of spares. Made from the same nylon.
    amazon.com link »
    [quoted image]

    Nice find. Gonna order some. Glad the ball came in handy!

    #32 5 months ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    Nice find. Gonna order some. Glad the ball came in handy!

    Yes it did! I am So looking forward to working on this beautiful Midway and can’t thank you enough for doing all the hard work! New clowns are in process just refining them so they are perfect.

    #33 5 months ago
    Quoted from Yelobird:

    Yes it did! I am So looking forward to working on this beautiful Midway and can’t thank you enough for doing all the hard work! New clowns are in process just refining them so they are perfect.

    That was quick! Im excited to see them. I'm trying to find more time to work on this game but the end of the year is a busy time at work and home. Hopefully I can carve out a bit of time over the holidays and at least finish cleaning the cabinet. That's the goal

    #34 5 months ago

    Clown Cleaning

    Speaking of clowns, this game had one. To the uninitiated, this doesn't seem like too big of a deal, but these guys are either a) missing or b) complete mush 99% of the time. The rubber they are made out of wasn't built to last. I've seen a couple where it's just a black mush of rubber. Someone put a piece of electrical tape across the clown and the bracket. I guess to keep it from falling off. After gently removing the tape, I found damage. Over time, the electrical tape caused the section of rubber under the tape to get hotter than the rest and caused it to melt slightly. Here is the clown after I removed the tape. He's so happy to be free.
    20190812_164548 (resized).jpg

    Very dirty and you can see the crease from the tape. The clown has a brown/tan skin tone. I've seen ones like this and ones that have a white skin tone.

    First round of cleaning, you can start to see the eyes and eyebrows.
    20190812_180410 (resized).jpg

    Second round of cleaning
    20190812_180510 (resized).jpg20190812_180515 (resized).jpg

    I'm finding everything on this game needs multiple rounds of cleaning. Once you get through the first layer or dirt/grime, there seems to be another layer. I'm starting to have a feeling that most of my restore time is going to be in trying to get everything clean.

    2 weeks later
    #35 5 months ago

    Here's a sneak peek of what I've been working on during the break. Detailed write up to follow
    20191227_163440 (resized).jpg20191227_163446 (resized).jpg

    #36 5 months ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    Clown Cleaning

    Don't think you'll ever get it 100% clean.
    I'd make a silicone mold then make some reproductions!

    #37 5 months ago

    This one looks badass
    And it sold pretty Cheap

    ebay.com link

    Then I came across this guy who collects them... among other things

    http://torrencecollection.com/index.html

    #38 5 months ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Don't think you'll ever get it 100% clean.
    I'd make a silicone mold then make some reproductions!

    Already in the works!

    #39 5 months ago

    Cabinet Disassembly

    Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas. I got some solid shop time while on break. During that time I was able to completely strip the front of the cabinet. I tried to leave all of the assemblies attached to the wiring from the backbox so that I could remove the harness and components at the same time. I removed the coin mech holder, light socket, and disassembled the ball launch assembly. Everything came out pretty easily except for the staples holding the harness to the cabinet. I had to cut the staples because they wouldn't budge. I had to cut the wires to the compressor and the power switch to get the rest of the harness out.
    Here are some break down pics
    20191223_142654 (resized).jpg20191223_142703 (resized).jpg20191223_142706 (resized).jpg20191223_142957 (resized).jpg20191223_143005 (resized).jpg20191223_144301 (resized).jpg20191223_144343 (resized).jpg20191223_144430 (resized).jpg20191223_144619 (resized).jpg20191223_144643 (resized).jpg

    #40 5 months ago

    Cabinet Disassembly

    After this I removed the entire compressor and base from the game. There are two screws that connect the base to the cabinet. After unscrewing them the entire assembly comes out. I removed the compressor hood and was surprised at how nice the compressor looked. It will need to be gone through and cleaned. These compressors get finicky when they get too dirty
    20191223_145006 (resized).jpg20191223_145016 (resized).jpg20191223_145239 (resized).jpg20191223_145242 (resized).jpg

    #41 5 months ago

    Cabinet Disassembly

    I then moved to the topside of the game. I removed the coin drop, slug rejector(completely seized), and the instruction card(fun scribbles on the back). Then I hit a big problem. The formica under the instruction card looked great. The rest of the formica inside the game cleaned up beautifully, but the formica outside the game is dull. I thought it was just dirt but after cleaning it and it drying it goes back to looking cloudy. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to restore this dull formica? I have found someone that makes a reproduction laminate that is a dead match to mine, but it's $800!!!

    20191223_143042 (resized).jpg20191223_143047 (resized).jpg20191228_135745 (resized).jpg20191228_140003 (resized).jpg20191228_140151 (resized).jpg20191228_140154 (resized).jpg20191228_140206 (resized).jpg20191228_140211 (resized).jpg20191228_140432 (resized).jpg20191228_140434 (resized).jpg20191228_141343 (resized).jpg20191228_152229 (resized).jpg

    #42 5 months ago

    Last thing to do was to remove the rivet nuts that the legs bolt into. This was painful. If you have noticed, I'm working on the game while it's on a dolly about 6 inches off the floor. This allows me to reach into the cabinet to do the work without my body rubbing against the cabinet paint. To make things easier, my wife bought me this for Christmas and I'm loving it.
    20191228_134737 (resized).jpg

    After everything was out, I took my orbital sander with 220 grit paper to the inside. It clean up really nice. The overspray from the cabinet was still under all that mess along with some really cool looking wood grain. I don't know why my camera is showing the white splotches still. The wood looks a lot cleaner in person.

    20191228_150540 (resized).jpg20191228_150550 (resized).jpg20191228_150543 (resized).jpg20191228_150611 (resized).jpg20191228_150624 (resized).jpg20191228_150634 (resized).jpg
    #43 5 months ago

    Nice clean foundation, good work! Looking forward to seeing this one come back together.

    I wonder if that formica is available elsewhere.
    I used formica for an arcade restoration years ago and it was actually very nice! Got a huge sheet for like $30 at a local cabinet/kitchen supply shop for contractors. They had many options also!

    #44 5 months ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Nice clean foundation, good work! Looking forward to seeing this one come back together.
    I wonder if that formica is available elsewhere.
    I used formica for an arcade restoration years ago and it was actually very nice! Got a huge sheet for like $30 at a local cabinet/kitchen supply shop for contractors. They had many options also!

    I did find a place. 100% match but they only sell it in 4' x 12' sections for $800. I'm thinking maybe a good polishing might bring it back

    #45 5 months ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    I did find a place. 100% match but they only sell it in 4' x 12' sections for $800. I'm thinking maybe a good polishing might bring it back

    Sample-Dark-Orange-with-Gold-Silver-600x600 (resized).jpg
    #46 5 months ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    [quoted image]

    Just ask for 80 of these swatches and a bottle of glue! Lol. I’m sure it will turn out great and a bit of patina might be a good look. Not rat urine patina though...

    #47 5 months ago
    66245720-553F-4AD3-BC33-76C706F2D275 (resized).jpeg808C4600-D0B0-4708-AC47-260217A1A779 (resized).jpeg874AD805-146C-49CC-955E-8FE8CD31A136 (resized).jpeg
    #48 5 months ago

    Cabinet Disassembly

    I get 2 days outside of Federal holidays off of work. New Years Eve is one of them. No wife, no kids, no distractions. Time to finish disassembling the cabinet and try to tackle the formica.

    First off, I removed the hose the connects the long carboard tube to the ball lift. Obviously it will need to be replaced.
    20191231_104615 (resized).jpg20191231_104619 (resized).jpg

    Next up was removing the score reel panel and back door. I'm going to save someone in the future 15 mins of frustration and multiple 4 letter words. You don't need to unscrew the hinges on the backdoor or tap out the hinge pins to remove the back door. Just lift the whole backdoor up and the hinge on the backdoor lifts off. Whoever you are, you can thank me later.
    20191231_105151 (resized).jpg20191231_111221 (resized).jpg20191231_111232 (resized).jpg20191231_111313 (resized).jpg20191231_111324 (resized).jpg

    Then I removed the grate in the back and the 2 labels that were behind the light panel.To remove the labels without further damage, I slide a small knife under the staples. Just enough to get something my pliers could grab without damaging the paper. Patience paid off and they came out easily and intact.

    20191231_110221 (resized).jpg20191231_105213 (resized).jpg20191231_110022 (resized).jpg20191231_110349 (resized).jpg20191231_112257 (resized).jpg
    #49 5 months ago

    Cabinet Disassembly

    Almost there. Now on to the scenery and main target unit. I had only removed the main target once when I first got the machine to make sure it was all there. When I went to pull the main target assembly, I remembered why I put it back in the cabinet. It is crazy heavy. I'd estimate it around 40-50 pounds. Much heavier then the Deluxe Shooting Gallery. I put it on the bench to give it a good once over. Here's some pics of the scenery. I cleaned some spots here and there to show the condition. The scenery in it is in great shape and doesn't need replacing. The duck targets even have all of their original paint.
    20191231_104846 (resized).jpg20191231_104853 (resized).jpg20191231_104858 (resized).jpg20191231_104957 (resized).jpg20191231_105040 (resized).jpg20191231_105134 (resized).jpg

    Last up, I removed the rest of the shroud scenery. I got a lot of experience removing these from my last project. I still hate the screw nails.

    20191231_133514 (resized).jpg
    #50 5 months ago

    Formica Repair

    Now that the cabinet is empty, I turned my attention to the formica. If you ran your hand across it, it was very rough. Almost like sandpaper. It was even dimpled a bit on the left side. I tried everything I could to get the color and shine back. I tried some carnauba wax first with a polisher to see if that would help. It didn't. After many different approaches, nothing worked. After studying it some more, the dimples I was feeling were actually where the inclusions should be. I came to the conclusion that the top had been worn away somehow. What I was seeing was the top few layers of the formica removed/worn away. I don't know how this happened. I decided the only way to somewhat restore this into something usable and comfortable to the touch was sanding.

    I started by sanding a small section that would sit below the gun mount in case things went wrong. I worked up through 1000 grit and this was the result
    20191231_122313 (resized).jpg

    Success. I took a deep breath and did the same to the rest. It's important to note here that if you are trying to do the same thing, be very carefully when sanding formica with inclusions with lower grit sandpaper. You can remove the inclusions if you are too rough. In my case the inclusions, on the left side were already worn away. I did remove some inclusions while sanding, but it couldn't be helped. The surface had already been worn down to the inclusions and they were literally sitting on top. In order to get a smooth even surface to work with later, it had to be done. Here are some process pictures.
    20191231_122317 (resized).jpg20191231_132334 (resized).jpg20191231_132339 (resized).jpg20191231_132400 (resized).jpg

    I forgot the snap some finished photos. I'll try to remember to go back and get some to post here. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I'm going to stop messing with the formica for now and see how I like it. I might put a gel coat down over it to lock it down and bring the sheen up to where the interior formica is at. There is a little voice in the back of my head telling me to buy some silver and gold flakes and work them into the gelcoat to even out the missing inclusions..... I'm trying to ignore that voice.

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