Got my black filament, reinforced it with more walls and 50% infill.
Probably overkill but whatever.
Need to clean up some support leftovers but otherwise it's 99%, extremely proud of this part and how good it came out!
Made some roll pins that also turned out surprisingly well!
Couldn't resist mocking it up out in the garage.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5166690

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Plexi protectors on all the targets, new mounting hardware.
Plugged in the motor assembly and a few problems, the cat gears are too far from the track it pushes up, the witch string isn't grabbing to pull it up.
Going to have to pull the assembly and inspect it.

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Hard to tell which one is the reproduction (it's the right one). I will be making a small run of these plates, please PM me if you would like one. On many of the rifle games I've gotten, these are often missing or are the incorrect "Remington" branded ones.

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Put a few hours this weekend into trying to figure out my motor issues - the horizontal witch motor always runs left, and the vertical witch motor always runs trying to go down. This is even when the game is in game over mode.
Monster motor is fine and is used as my baseline for comparison.

I mistakenly replaced one of the MJE370's and broke a leg on it, brittle old transistors.
They're not cheap or easy to find either, may just replace with a generic 3A NPN transistor, but the pinout is also uncommon. TIP series is backwards.
Upon closer inspection, a MJE520 is also toast.

Plugging the board into the game and probing around, the horizontal has 6VDC on the input line and the vertical has -12.
Need to probe around with the relays and resistors and see where that is coming from.

I also learned a hard lesson with the cat motor - the switches weren't lining up with the wheels that trigger them.
Upon closer inspection the threaded rod I used to hold the motor together was preventing it from lining up properly with the mounting bracket.
I also had missed 2 screws in that mounting bracket that went into the motor housing.

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That's not correct, here is the "Witch Up" rotation.

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Been putzing with this here and there the last couple weeks, I'm in the home stretch and want to close it out!
Got the random moving motors issue figured out, 2 of the 3 op-amps were bad.
Socketed and put in new ones, replaced the 3rd one for good measure.

All 3 target motors are working smoothly!

The witch target is not able to move up on its own.
I tried 3D printing the rubber ring it uses to rub against the motor shaft (pictured above) and drive up the witch.
The flexible TPU filament is a little too firm I think. The printed ones work about as good as the original one.
The original rubber is harder than pinball rubbers and still in good shape, I feel it's missing some grippiness it once had.
With a stronger spring on the witch release coil I could have some better traction.
Next thought is to design and print a knurled sleeve for the motor shaft to help bite into the rubber better.

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Thinking of ways to get the witch motor to grip better, tried wrapping a piece of electrical tape around the motor shaft and it's a little better but far from 100%.
The TPU is too hard, it has a shore hardness of A95 and is not good for soft grippy rubber. They make softer filaments but I'm lucky to be able to print TPU with the bowden tube 3D printer setup I have, a direct drive extruder (extruder mounted on the hotend) is a must for anything softer. The filaments only get down to like A80 so I won't feel too bad if this doesn't work out.
Printed with the "fuzzy skin" setting in Cura, I also whipped up a model with some knurling and was shocked at how easy it was to do.
Hoping the thin texture with the springiness of the TPU will give it some grip! The knurled one printed good definition for how fine of detail it is, but will also play around with the settings for some chunkier knurls.

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Been putzing with this here and there between other projects, here's what's been done:

New mirror - got a few crazy quotes due to glass shortage but found a mom and pop place around the corner that charged me $40
While the mirror was out, ran the 5V power wire for the relay/trigger board
Freshened up the panel that the board mount to
Got the sound card all finalized and wired up

Always a few more things to finish but hope to have some more time to keep it moving!

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Still here, I was struggling to work through an issue with the witch.
The rubber (542-902) rubs against a shaft from the motor assembly with friction to move the witch up and down.
The whole witch assembly is pulled back for a "hit" with the spring.
Once the witch gets to the end of the path of travel, the spring tension gets higher, and the factory rubber I have was slipping (despite it being in good shape).

I tried a variety of things, swapping out the rubber for a pinball rubber, adding a stronger spring for more tension against the motor shaft.
Despite all, the witch was never getting to the top of the PCB so the game never could reverse it to do a "dance".

My fix: 3D print a new rubber out of flexible TPU material with a small (.05") gear tooth. Add a matching rubber cover for the metal gear shaft to fit snugly.
The catch was that I needed enough clearance to still allow a full retract upon a "hit". Got it all dialed in yeseterday!

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Now I'm moving....
Old backglass is hanging upside down to free up the metal lift channel
Left/right motion on the base was tough, removed the rifle/trigger assembly, worked some oil in there and it's much better!
The left/right of the witch/cat assembly was in the wrong direction, wired the motor up backwards
Adjusted the aiming, I like the X and Y on different boards compared to earlier games, makes it easier to adjust!
Too much slop in the rifle base, replaced the 3D printed "roll pins" with some new ones out of my variety kit. They are 0.16" vs. the factory rusted 0.18" but still hold in there well. Next rifle base I print I'll reinforce the walls more and make the holes match the 0.16" size.

The game plays through fine! Some cosmetic touchups and I'm in the home stretch.

The only outstanding issue is the left/right motion on the cat/witch assembly. It starts slow, and will NOT make it to the end. Googling it seems to be a common problem. May try replacing the bridge rectifier on the motor board, otherwise will dig into the motor to ensure it's all moving freely. Worst case need to get the motor re-wound. I tried loosening up the tension on the rear leaf fingers and that helped a little but far from what I need.

Some heat, a 2x2 scrap on the edge and a few good thwacks got it off! Much more comfortable when you don't care about the old glass.
Remove paint with CitriStrip, evaporust bath, sand, paint.

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Had an issue with the horizontal witch motor moving sluggish/not making it all the ends. The bottom half (not chain/motor side) was sagging behind.
First I though it was the motor, hooked the RPM meter up and sure enough with the gearbox attached was right around the specified 50 RPM with lots of torque.
I had already bought some spare "Rowe 600" hobby motors on eBay, different rotors, I assume the same stator, may be good for spare parts.
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Considered the rods - they were discolored and had some texture on the end.
Cleaned and sanded with incrementally finer sandpaper, relubricated.
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Suspected the board - I don't trust these ancient semiconductors so replaced the bridge and the zener diode as a precaution.
The resistors that determine the different speeds were testing just barely out of spec.
Referring to this post - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-midway-haunted-house-rifle-game-motor-speed
my voltages were nearly identical, so decided to leave the resistors alone for now.

Problem still persisted so I took another look, sure enough, I installed the chain drive upside down when I rebuilt it!
Poppped it around and it's much better! Still need some more tweaking to get some better speed but in a much better spot.
In the process, I bent up some of the leaf switches and they were getting caught on the wire on the bakelite board, some bending to do but VERY happy to be over this hump.
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Just a few more things left...

Did a few minor touchups, opened my very fancy BGResto box and put in the backglass.
Beyond pleased with the quality of the backglass, absolutely worth the money and wait!
Waiting on a new speaker to install, but I'm calling this one done!!! Hundreds of hours, but this title deserves it.
I love the game and have tons of blood sweat and tears invested in it as documented here, but I would entertain offers if anyone is so inclined.

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