(Topic ID: 67658)

Midway Flying Carpet rifle game


By eckertsbrew

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 60 posts
  • 25 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 days ago by Nikrox2
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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    There are 60 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 76 days ago

    Not much of an update on this one - checked and tightened the Jones plugs (lightly squeezing the female ports). Chasing all soldered joints, I did re-solder one on the Jones plug (looked loose, so I re-did it). Checked/inspected all solder joints ( I think...geez, there are hundreds) - can't find a single loose connection.

    Tried again this morning before work, and although "cold" - it didn't start as it had previously. So not sure on this one...ugh What a PIA!

    I did notice last night when I got home, I turned it on, and the coin switch worked, then it started a game from the play button. Then after that - nuttin. Let is sit for hours, even over night, but no start up after that...

    Just giving feed back on what I'm seeing, what I'm doing, just in case???

    #52 75 days ago

    I could only find this poor schematic online.. but have you cleaned the slam switch on the door to make sure its making contact?? Worst case, unsolder the "non" black wire that powers the solenoid on the start relay and using a jumper.. put power to it to make sure its working. If that's working, while disconnected and powered down, using a continuity tester... check from the disconnected wire through the components on the schematic for a failure.

    magic_carpet1 (resized).jpg
    #53 75 days ago

    Will check this evening. Again - thanks for even suggestions at this point. It actually came with a schematic (although mine is old, yellow and brittle!) , and I checked to be sure that slam switch was closed, but I didn't clean it. Will do that first.

    The 2nd part is where I get a little fuzzy on - So I can manually stroke the start relay and the game works. Your comment on removing the "non-black" wire (that powers the solenoid) - I take it we're trying to see if we're getting power to that solenoid (rather than manually operated) - so where would I get the "power to put to it" from? (Sorry, may sound simple, but I don't want to burn anything up and electrical is my weak link!)

    This (once I know where to grab power from to check) will tell me if the solenoid is bad (Which I understand is rather rare, but does happen) - so if with the new power supply works, it proves the solenoid is good. Then I'm looking for a failure point - correct? (Again, learning here, so please bare with me)

    For an example - let's say the solenoid fires with the other power source, meaning it's good. How and what steps do I take to chase this down?

    Again - somewhat newbie here - I'm checking continuity. Set my multi meter to check continuity, place leads on different ends of the cable/wire - should hear a beep. If not, I have a short/disconnect somewhere - is this correct? If so...

    Where do I start? From the play push button, the coin switches, the start relay???

    It "feels" like the coin door is either not getting "supply" (power) or the "return" (signal) back to the machine (hope that makes sense)

    For more info (hope this helps) on the coin door - from the Jones plug, there is a "Black" wire. It's in the spool to the coin door, but it dead ends there without connecting to anything. (Wrapped up in black tape) Then, the Orange wires - that seem to loop from the coin switches, to the start button, to the slam switch - it runs back towards the Jones plug - but it also just ends in the spool without connecting to anything (wrapped up in the black tape).

    At first I thought somehow these two were to be connected - but blew a 10a fuse quickly ;-(

    Seeing how all of this worked previously, I cant see that this could be the issue, but maybe one came loose??? Just wanted to give any/all info I'm seeing while diving deeper in this one.

    #54 75 days ago

    As an added note - when I power on the game - the "Game Over" relay pulls in, the "Lock" is released and the "0 Deg" Relay pulls in. Once I stroke the "start" relay, the "Game over" relay releases, the "Lock" relay pulls in and the game starts right up.

    Don't know if this helps in any way, but thought I'd mention what I'm seeing on this end. (The 0 Deg relay does seem to get warm, as it's stuck pulled in - so possibly that's where after a time period it heats up? Although this morning it didn't start totally cold)

    I'll check the other items as noted above this evening and report back.

    Didn't mean to hijack a thread here, but thought this is where I'll find some help! Thanks

    #55 75 days ago

    Ok.. Sorry, I presumed you were more familiar with EM wiring. I too am not experienced with this kind of machine, but can give some pointers to the best of my ability. In the picture I have highlighted the main AC power lines in Yellow.. the wires are Black and Yellow that come off the transformer. The 0 degree relay circuit (in red) must be working, as it is activated.. this also should connect the (green) start relay circuit to the Yellow wire as the relay has changed the state of the contacts from being off.. to on. I would clean the contacts on the 0 degree relay and check for tension on the contacts. BTW... you have added credits to the machine?? Does the machine require you to put in quarters and if so do the credits appear??

    magic_carpet1_2 (resized).jpg
    #56 75 days ago

    Thanks! First - I did clean the slam switch, but it didn't help any.

    Yes, when I put in a quarter or dime - it will give credits - only at first, as with the play button - when at first powering up, I can hit either the coin switches or the start button - and it'll give credits or start - once, then it wont do either again thru the coin door (I can by manually stroking either relay)

    Although I tried it this morning (cold, thinking this is when it works) - but I'm getting nothing now. No start or credits.

    Looking thru the schematic and your notes -

    On the "Green" highlighted items - When I power up the machine - the 0 Deg Relay pulls in (closed), the Anti Slam is of course closed, the Start push button is open (until I push it closed), but the Credit Unit 0 Switch is closed as I have credits shown. It is only open when no credits are shown.

    So was this an error on the schematics? When I take it to 0 credits, to open the switch, it wont start.

    The 0 Deg Relay - per the schematic circled in Red- is that a "make/break" ? Or one side open, the other closed? (I have three legs on each of these smaller coils) So confused there...

    Either way, I'll clean the contacts on the 0 Deg relay, and post back.

    Looking at the upper left corner item highlighted in Red, the "Control Unit Release" coil - when the 25 cent switch is closed, this one should activate - correct?

    Maybe that one is not releasing or firing as it should?

    Sorry for all the questions...

    PS: Did you see in my above post about the Black wire coming from the Jones plug to the coin door, and the Orange wire connecting the Slam, Start and Coin switches - both of these dead end - as in not connected to anything on one end. (They're taped up into the spool from the coin door to the Jones plug) Just wanted to be sure that is not an issue?

    #57 74 days ago

    Finally - a good update! lol

    She's working again! (Well, somewhat!)

    I cleaned the 0 Deg Relay contacts, as well as the Start & Trigger relay contacts. I meticulously checked after each thing I worked on, so I could note which item was possibly the culprit. None of these things worked.

    Looking over the schematics and knowing I have the Black wire coming from the Jones plug going no where, and the "looped" Orange wire also not going any where - I decided to once again try to see if these should be connected. (They don't! I blew another 10A fuse) - But, after blowing the fuse (and changing it out) - the start/coin switches are now working again! lol Why??

    A couple of weird or possible issues that are/were relevant -

    When I manually stroke the 10 cent coin switch - the game starts (as well as giving me credits)
    When I manually stroke the 25 cent coin switch - the trigger goes off, lose a shot (as well as giving me credits)

    After a full game (20 shots) the "Control Unit Release coil" stays on (pulled in) - until I either manually rotate the shot stepper, or turn the game off, or hit the play button again - then it releases. (Looking at the machine from the rear, This is the small rotating wheel (stepper?) at the top right inside the machine, with one divot at the zero point I believe. And this is the small coil/relay that releases a tab to stop the rotating wheel.

    Not sure why it keeps running??

    I was having issues with the trigger relay, as it was sticking, for anywhere from 3 to 12 shots. I adjusted the left most blade on this relay and that seems to have fixed that issue (although when I hit a target, the light inside stayed on for a few seconds before. Now it's almost instantaneous, quick light and dunn (Maybe that's how it's supposed to look/act? Or I've "over adjusted this switch blade?) I used to have to wait a bit between shots, now I can fire rapidly, although I don't think the machine records /steps each one. There seems to be a slight pause before it will show a shot taken, even tho I may have fired off 3 or 4 rapidly. If I slow it down, and pause on my own, it does record each shot as it should.

    But nonetheless - I'm making progress and the game is operational again.

    I'll keep working on this one and if there are any tips or comments to the above, chime in. (I like them to work as they were intended if I can)

    Just wanted to say thanks to several here who did try ( and eventually) did help me get this one going again! THANK YOU!

    Next up - trying to get the tape unit to produce sound (tapes all there, and it seems to be operational, but possibly some board work needs completed there.)

    3 weeks later
    #58 49 days ago

    Another update - if anyone is checking on this posting - So, after what 3 weeks of good playing, the game quit operating again from the coin door. (Could still manually stroke the start relay and it starts), So I went back to what worked before:

    "Looking over the schematics and knowing I have the Black wire coming from the Jones plug going no where, and the "looped" Orange wire also not going any where - I decided to once again try to see if these should be connected. (They don't! I blew another 10A fuse) - But, after blowing the fuse (and changing it out) - the start/coin switches are now working again! lol Why??"

    Yes, copied & pasted from previous posting - but that got the game going again from the coin door. Blew a 10a fuse, but it's working again.

    Anyone have any idea of what this issue is and why this may be "resolving the issue, even if temporary"?

    All help is appreciated!

    1 month later
    #59 16 days ago
    Quoted from Nikrox2:

    Another update - if anyone is checking on this posting - So, after what 3 weeks of good playing, the game quit operating again from the coin door. (Could still manually stroke the start relay and it starts), So I went back to what worked before:
    "Looking over the schematics and knowing I have the Black wire coming from the Jones plug going no where, and the "looped" Orange wire also not going any where - I decided to once again try to see if these should be connected. (They don't! I blew another 10A fuse) - But, after blowing the fuse (and changing it out) - the start/coin switches are now working again! lol Why??"
    Yes, copied & pasted from previous posting - but that got the game going again from the coin door. Blew a 10a fuse, but it's working again.
    Anyone have any idea of what this issue is and why this may be "resolving the issue, even if temporary"?
    All help is appreciated!

    Gut feeling and I've had strange things happen to me with other games. Check the quality of the fuse holder. If the fuse holder contacts are oxidised or are weak from years of being under tension this can cause a large voltage drop across the fuse. You mentioned it started to work again after replacing the fuse. By the act of replacing the fuse you have slightly cleaned the contacts. It's like pulling and pushing on Jones plugs to clean them "I do not condone this action to clean Jones Plugs". It was just an example of the abrasive action caused by two bits of metal rubbing. Hope it's helpful?

    #60 16 days ago

    It’s a tip to look at. Thanks I’ll see if there’s any change

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    There are 60 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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