Good luck with your new game... I have been looking for a haunted house shooter for sometime now... They always seem to needs tons of work. Pictures and updates would be great

Congrats! I too have been looking for a decent rifle game for a long time. Midway seems cream of the crop. Enjoy it!~SpOoKy

I would like one as well down the line. Great childhood memories playing that one.

Ken

Crap. I was hoping this threat was "for sale" and near me.

GL working on it, and congrats!

keep looking. I thought someone selling repro tapes

Try forums.arcade.museum.com. Lots of guys on there who know about these games. There is a person who sells tapes of the audio.

Neat Game! Does it use an 8 track player for sound? Post a photo of the unit and tape.
--
Jeremy Agema
Central WI

Digg these EM gun games

I love these EM gun games too and someday when I have the space I'll own one. I seem to remember someone doing a solid state replacement for the analog tape unit, but I can't remember where I read it or if it was a mod or a one-off.

There's one on eBay right now.

ebay.com link: Midway Haunted House Shooting Gallery Vintage Arcade

I restored a Flying carpet a few years ago. the tape drive was what the called a continuous tape. unlike the later ones that had a 8-track this was just a loop tape that hung on the unit. it would pull in and play one of 6 channels.
they have obsolete parts but if you recap it, it might work. my flying carpet was the rarer type that had the fold away step. they made only a few of these.

2011-09-29_12-41-10_705.jpg
2011-01-03_18-11-11_308.jpg

Got to love how they did those old analog systems, really clever and simple.

Robert

that was sold as a store model it helped the little kids. it folded in out of the way for tall people. I had a nos set of targets for mine

I realize this is an old thread, but just in case someone reviews it fresh with a need for information about the Midway Flying Carpet tape drive, I can help you out. I have just finished a complete restoration of my Flying Carpet shooting gallery... including exterior paint, reproducing interior graphics with fluorescent paint, reproducing backglass, and creating a schematic of the tape drive. This is my first post to Pinside so hopefully I upload a photo properly. I can supply a tape drive schematic free of charge if you contact me. I also have a series of photos showing the restoration of this game. This is an old posting, so I won't go into more detail until requested.

I will add one more comment though. I acquired an incomplete tape drive yesterday and learned that there were more than one versions of this tape drive. They look very similar, but the amplifier board is a bit different on the 2 versions. I SUSPECT that if the amplifier board is brown it is the earlier version and if the amplifier board is blue you have the later version.1 Before.JPG2 restoring.jpg3 After.JPG

Thanks for the good pics!

Very cool! Love to see pics of the progress from start to finish.

i just acquired one of these flying carpets and am just starting to get it going .i have a few questions ,when i shoot mine it takes 20 second or so for the shot counter to register and the gun to be able to fire again,should there be a hesitation between shots? and how long?.
also on the small moving targets ,the ones that are lower on the field,do all of these fall down or flip when shot or is this feature only intermittant and what controls it ,on mine only 2 of these targets do this and not every time they are hit .
when i do hit a target there is the flash of light but this happens a few seconds after the hit and then the score is recorded also ,is this right or should the flash of light and score add up as soon as the gun is fired
also the selonoid that pulls in the tape is burnt out where do you sugest i get replacement
and the tape is present when i engage the player manually the tape runs thru fine but no sounds ,caps? or something else
thanks for the help

I ran across a photo set that I made which covers my restoration process of a Flying Carpet. I took a couple hundred photos, but I can't post that many so hear are 29 photos that take you from seeing it on Ebay to finished. Hopefully they post in the right order. I don't know what the image limits are so I will break it up.

001_Photo_from_Ebay_(resized).JPG

002_Got_it_home_(resized).jpg

003_Trace_the_graphics_(resized).jpg

004_Cut_out_a_paint_stencil_(resized).jpg

005_Repair_cabinet_damage_(resized).jpg

006_Get_it_smooth_and_in_primer_(resized).jpg

007_Replace_rotted_floor_(resized).jpg

008_Place_red_paint_stencil_(resized).jpg

OK, I see that I misunderstood the order in which photos are shown. So, the first 8 photos above are in backwards order. Now for the next 8 photos...

009_Spray_red_Rustoleum_(resized).jpg

010_Remove_stencil_(resized).jpg

011_Place_green_paint_stencil_(resized).jpg

012_Spray_green_Rustoleum_(resized).jpg

013_Remove_stencil_(resized).jpg

014_Disassemble_rifle_(resized).JPG

015_Almost_ready_for_black_Rustoleum_(resized).jpg

016_Coin_door_(resized).jpg

Great, those 8 photos posted in the correct order. Here is the next 8 photos. FYI, Gary Conway at backglassreproductions.com made the new interior artwork for me. He also made the new backglass.

017_Remove_paint_and_rust_(resized).JPG

018_Almost_ready_for_paint_(resized).jpg

019_Paint_coin_door_trim_(resized).jpg

020_Paint_coin_door_(resized).jpg

021_Remove_defective_backglass_(resized).jpg

022_Install_reproduced_glass_(resized).JPG

023_Reproduce_interior_artwork_(resized).JPG

024_Reproduce_interior_artwork_(resized).JPG

Nice job!!

Here are the final photos. This is where it got tricky. The reproduced artwork did not have the fluorescent ink so the black light in the game would not cause it to glow. So I found a company in California called Risk Reactor that makes clear paint that glows a specific color when black light is applied. I ordered up some samples and found that the oil based worked better than the water based paint. I spent some time learning how to air brush and then created stencils using a translucent adhesive backed "paper" that I got at the art store. The adhesive had a light tack, like post it notes. I experimented on spare scraps of artwork that Gary sent with the reproduced artwork. I added non diluted florescent paint to the really small intricate areas using a brushes that had only one or two hairs. The game is restored, but I never have been able to get the tape drive to work reliably even though I have recapped it. Right now I am in the process of installing a Raspberry Pi 2 to do the work that the tape drive does. The Raspberry Pi 2 is a computer that is the size of a deck of playing cards. I have it programmed now and it seems to work fine on the bench. I still need to create sound files from the tape and get that on the Pi. I will be installing it soon. The Pi is small enough to hide inside the tape player so the game will look right and will play as it should.

025_Airbrush_fluorescent_paint_(resized).JPG

026_Assemble_target_mechanism_(resized).JPG

027_Install_target_mechanism_(resized).JPG

028_Restore_steps_(resized).JPG

029_Finished_(resized).JPG

great job. thanks for posting!

Beautiful! Very nice work!

Thanks,

Maybe I should have mentioned that I used Rustoleum spray paint. I tried automotive spray paint but it is so light and thin that it crept under the stencils. I did have one problem though. When I sprayed the red over the green (for the carpet image) the red bubbled a bit and gave it a bit of texture. That was ok for this job though because it gave the carpet a look of texture. I have a Wild Kingdom to do this summer and I will experiment with Krylon to see if that bubbles.

I also should have mentioned how I got the speckled silver paint dots on the entire yellow cabinet. I bought a jar of thick silver paint at Home Depot and experimented with brushes that were a bit larger than a toothbrush. I dipped the brush in the paint, get off most of the excess, then scraped the bristles with my thumb to create a splatter. It worked great. Be sure to practice on cardboard first.

good job. I did one a few years back. the model with pull down stairs is pretty rare. they made them without and you had to special order the gun game with pull down steps.
for the splatter use this tool make the job so much easier plus look a whole lot better
http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/brushes-and-palette-knives/watercolor-brushes/creative-mark-watercolor-brushes/spatter-wonder-speckle-brush.htm?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&gclid=CjwKEAiAt_K0BRCzjtv92_HGoR0SJAA9QNn_4eUmSESU6a6Qx-IYp-bIw4tS_lmqwQFwKgDDf7If3hoC1gnw_wcB

2011-09-29_12-41-10_705_(resized).jpg

Thanks for the suggested spatter brush. I will give it a try. I saw your photo earlier in this thread. I thought it looked too good to be original. I see that you used the same yellow tint that I did. I tried to guesstimate what the original non faded colors might look like. On my fold down steps there was a black mat. I couldn't find the exact ribbed pattern so I bought a short piece of stair liner and glue it down with rubber cement.

HeyYou,

That is terrific work. I learned a bunch from your thread.

Regarding the order of the pics you can do it yourself. If you go to edit and scroll down in the article to the bottom you can rearrange the order by cutting and pasting. After you edit if you have still an error repeat.

What I do when linking a bunch of pics is save initially a number or title. I then immediately go to edit and scroll to the bottom of the topic and cut and place where I exactly want them. Takes a few minutes only.

Thanks SteveinTexas, I found the edit button, deleted the photos, and then added them back again in the proper order. The photos should make sense now.

Great photos!

I need to replace some the artwork in my Funland rifle game. I tired searching for backglassreproductions.com but doesn't seem to be around anymore? I would love to find someone that can repro these artworks with the fluorescent paints.

Sure, I can provide the info you need to repro your fluorescent artwork. I have lots of photos and I believe that I still have all of the contact info you need for supplies.

We can continue in this thread or perhaps we should start another. Otherwise if you want to take this offline using [email protected] Let me know how much detail you want to cover.

Here is a bit of the info.

In my Flying Carpet there is artwork that is vertical, on the interior sidewalls. The condition of this artwork was tolerable. Unfortunately I felt compelled to remove it from the cabinet because I knew with my luck I would nail it with paint while restoring the exterior of the cabinet. The sidewall artwork is fastened to the cabinet using U shaped staples. It was tough to remove this artwork without a small amount of damage. So by the time I had it completely removed I decided to reproduce that artwork too.

The artwork on the target mechanism sits horizontal in the cabinet so any dust or lint or moisture collects on the surface of the artwork. It had water spots, mold, and other stains. Here is a photo of my BEFORE and after artwork on the target mechanism.

4_MG_3774_(resized).JPG

026_Assemble_target_mechanism_(resized).JPG

I just looked up Gary Conway's email address. It is [email protected]

As you can see from the photos, he did an excellent job reproducing the artwork. I won't put him on the spot by posting his fees here. I am sure that your game has different artwork so your price will probably be different. When he did my artwork, it was obvious that he didn't know how much work he was taking on. His final price was three times what his initial estimate was. Maybe it was the first time he reproduced interior artwork. Even with the higher price, I still feel that I got a fair deal. Not only does he print the artwork, he adheres it to poster board too. The edges are so clean that you would think he has a die to cut the artwork with. He also sent me a lot of the artwork pieces that didn't turn out perfect. I am sure that he would have tossed them in the trash but I asked him to send them because I needed pieces to practice on while I was learning how to apply fluorescent paint.

I had also looked into other sources for reproducing the artwork but I couldn't find anyone that could scan the sidewall art. It's over 5 feet long. I believe it was Kinko's that has a roller scanner. You feed the artwork in between the rollers and it is scanned as it goes through the machine. I didn't go that route because the gal at Kinko's didn't seem to have much (or any) experience using it. She also didn't know what the machine with to poster board being sent through it. It was really set up for paper. She said we could give it a try... I declined.

Another item worth noting is the black light bulb. I learned from a company called Risk Reactor that not all black light bulbs are the same color or wavelength. I believe that their bulbs were almost $20 but after buying one I could really see the difference. I bought a few spares. If you get a black light fixture at Menards, be sure to remove the plastic protective cover. It REALLY reduces the effect on the fluorescent paint.

If you send your artwork via UPS, do not send it in a cardboard box. Before reproducing my artwork I found a nicer condition set of artwork from someone that was parting out his game. He brought it to UPS and they put it in a large, think, wide, cardboard box. When it arrived it had been bent severely which ruined the artwork. So when I sent my artwork to Gary Conway, I went to Home Depot and bought 1/2" pine and made a crate. I seem to recall it ran me about $40 to send the artwork (US Postal Service) but at least the artwork arrived without any damage.

I also made a wood crate for the backglass. Gary had not made a Flying Carpet glass before so if my glass broke on the way to his place, I would have needed to find another. That would be tough. If Gary has already made a glass for your game he will not need you to send him your glass. If his breaks on the way to you, he can just make another.

Well, those are some of things that I experienced when restoring my Flying Carpet. I can continue with the detailed info here, in another thread, or on the side. Just let me know.

I found a bunch of photos that I took while air brushing the fluorescent paint on to my reproduced interior artwork. I think it is probably worth putting that in to a different thread in case anyone else might find it useful.

wow, all awesome info. I vote for another thread, as I'm sure there are many out there with damaged art in their machines.

I have posted the info in another thread.

I think this link will take you to that thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/restoring-fluorescence-to-interior-artwork

I just joined this club over the weekend! Love these older style machines. So far, this one needed a thorough cleaning of course, and most seems to work.

Except the sounds (I get the bell when a target is hit tho) - the tape drive is there, the coil engages and lowers the tape down on to the heads - but not getting any sounds at all.

Is there a speaker this was supposed to be connected to? Or is part of the amp/tape unit? Before I start taking apart this old style 8 track unit, I hoping there is a simple solution - like the speakers not being installed or even hooked up, or something disconnected.

I did try raising/rotating the master volume pot, and the individual sound pots - I don't know when or how each is supposed to sound tho? But no differences, no sounds coming out.

Could be something inside the tape/amp unit disconnected as well, just didn't know where to start.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated, thanks!

Mine also has the peg board in the front, so probably doesn't have the built in steps...although I didn't even look. There was a small set screw type of thing at the top in the center, but I never even thought to look.

yep no steps on mine, just the painted peg board. I did find the speaker behind this panel, so that is hooked up.

My tape unit is all there and functioning, but no sounds. I did remove the unit and found a large capacitor with the leads broken, so possibly that could be the issue..although, someone has tried to repair this sound board previously, so there could be other issues.

I did clean the shot unit stepper, which made that work 100% (it was in & out as far as number of shots). Wiped down the interior side panels, etc, so it's looking great and playing once again.

I'll start working on the sound board and report back. From what I'm seeing a lot of these don't have the units, let alone working units, so if I can get this one working, it'll be a plus!

Rather than start a fresh thread, out of curiosity, what do you guys use to clean the UV artwork?
Have to start sorting that out myself here shortly in a different gun game.

-Hans

I use water on a microfiber cloth. Be gentle.

Hey "Flying Carpet" owners - we've been having a blast with this one, but over the weekend, it's like the coin door is not connected now. We get no added credits (using a coin or manually activating either the 10 cent or 25 cent switches), and the game will not start from the start/play button now. It was all working great (wasn't getting all 20 shots, but cleaned the shot unit and now getting all 20 shots as it should)

I can manually stroke the start relay and the game works fine. I can add credits by manually stroking the credit relay.

I've cleaned the jones plugs that connect the coin door to the cabinet.

I've changed all fuses. Weird.... it's like the coin door is not being recognized at all???

Any tips or ideas?

Quick update- Came hole after work. Powered up the game and for S&G’s I hit the play button. Game played great.
Once over - nuttin. Again. No start no credits

Still starts and plays manually by stroking the start relay. And can get credits by stroking the credit relay

Checked the Jones plugs again.

It’s like the coin door is not making connection entirely.

When ever I have a problem after messing with a Jones plug, I will test it for continuity. Using your tester, place one lead on each side of the Jones plug and make sure there is continuity between both halves of the plug. I have had problems with the female side losing tension on the contacts and after finding the culprit, bend them is ever so slightly so they make proper contact again with the male portion.

Thanks for the tip! I will try that when I get off work. Weird, and it plays right into this possible issue - this morning, before work (Can't leave this one alone until it's working! lol) but I powered it up, and it started right off from the play button. After the 20 shots, nuttin… again. Powered on/off, but nothing.

So maybe it is the Jones plugs just not getting the power (supply?) or not returning signals?? Will try this tonight and report back.

I'll throw a guess out there.I'm guessing you have a cold solder joint somewhere. The game plays fine cold, but it sounds like once the game warms up that's when the issues start. Give all the wires a little tug at the solder connections. I've done this before and wires have snapped right off their joint.

Another tip to look for, thanks guys! I was just stumped, so these at least gives me something to look for.