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(Topic ID: 249322)

Midway Deluxe Shooting Gallery Restore


By edward472

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 48 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by edward472
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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    #1 1 year ago

    I was actually looking for a EM shooting game like Haunted House or Gangbusters to add to my gameroom, but late one night on Facebook Marketplace this game showed up. It had been up for a week so I assumed someone else had bought it, but I shot the guy a message just in case and went to bed. I got up the next morning and to my surprise the guy told me I was the first one to contact him. We messaged back and forth and the story goes that he bought it in an auction years ago with plans to restore it. He was looking to shorten his list of games to restore and this one was at the bottom of the list. He normally dealt in video arcade games. The game had been sitting in the shed ever since. 6 hour round trip with the wife and kid and I was the proud owner of a Midway Deluxe Shooting Gallery. Here's how it looked. I'm going to try to update this thread at least weekly. I already had finished a lot of the restore work already.
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    #2 1 year ago

    After I got it home, I gave it a once over.

    The good:
    It was mostly complete
    It powered up and the compressor worked.
    All the wire was for the most part intact.
    Almost all of the paper labels in the back were intact.
    The backglass was in great condition.

    The bad:
    The game was missing the coin box and clown.
    The game would start sporadically. I would drop a dime in press the plunger and the score reel would spin over and over and the stop on a random digit. then the game would start.
    One of the plates on one of the legs was bent.
    One of the spinning disks was missing a piece
    The spinning disks didn't spin.
    There were some cracks in the vacuum hose.
    The game registered 10 points whenever you pulled the trigger regardless if you shot anything.
    Most of the shot lights in the backglass didn't light up
    Someone painted the entire cabinet purple and then white.
    Almost every metal piece inside the game was corroded. There wasn't a lot of rust which was surprising considering it was stored in a shed in the humid South.

    Luckily, as I was collecting dimes out of the bottom of the cabinet, I saw something in the back. Reached back there and found an envelope and a piece of folded up paper. The envelope had NOS labels for the inside of the game and the piece of paper was the original instructions. Here are pics of the inside of the cabinet. I have scanned both the instructions and labels if anyone is interested in them

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    #3 1 year ago

    Such a cool game! Looking forward to seeing your progress.

    Thanks
    Blake

    #4 1 year ago

    Grandma has one still, been down in the basement since the mid 60s.

    The clowns are always gone, rotted away due to time. There was someone here making the spinning covers, do a search.

    #5 1 year ago

    Backglass Access

    First thing I wanted to check and insure was the backglass. In order to get the the glass, a few things need to be done first. The entire score reel assembly needs to be removed. There are 4 bolts in the 4 corners of the score reel the need to be unscrewed. Before you pull the score reel assembly out, you need to unscrew the 2 light bulb assemblies that are attached to the bottom. You also need to de solder the leads that go to the 2 hanging ball switches. Once that is done, you can pull the whole assembly out. Lastly, there are 2 metal bracket sat the top of the glass that hold the glass against the cabinet. Unscrew them and you should be able to pull the glass out. In my case, the glass was stuck. 30 mins of wiggling and a couple of pairs of pants later, the glass was free

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    #6 1 year ago
    Quoted from dsuperbee:

    Grandma has one still, been down in the basement since the mid 60s.
    The clowns are always gone, rotted away due to time. There was someone here making the spinning covers, do a search.

    I found the guy that was going to do the disks, but he told me he never finished. I did acquire a clown recently, but only because I bought a Midway Rifle Gallery that still had one. I plan to mold and cast a replacement clown, and if I don't find a disk by the end of the restore, I've been discussing with my brother about molding and casting replacement disks.

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    #7 1 year ago

    Backglass Cleaning

    The paint on the backglass was really solid but dirty. There was 1 small place over the number 8 shot that was lifting and someone had done a repair above the Previous Hi-Score. I took some qtips and water and slowly began cleaning the glass. I used an angled LED light I use in the shop to be able to tell where I had cleaned and the places that still needed attention. The places where the foam had made contact were sticky and were actually a thin layer of foam that I can only guess got hot and adhered to the glass. Cleaning the glass this way took about 2 hours.You can still see where the foam was and small amounts of the grey mask is gone, but it didn't go through to the art. I'm planning on replacing the foam with the fuzzy side of small Velcro instead. This should stop the glass from vibrating. I'm still trying to decide if I should seal the glass.

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    #8 1 year ago

    Spinning Disc Motor Repair

    I decided to get the game functional before tearing it down and doing cosmetics. This first glaring issue was the spinning disks not spinning. I have seen some machines where the motor for the clown and the motor for the discs are the same motor (Motoresearch Co. Super Gearmotor 50 volts Spec 3269A) and some where they are different. On my game, the motor for the spinning discs is not the same as the Motoresearch motor for the clown. the only markings on the motor is 15RPM 50V M1056. After a lot of searching, I stumbled on what kind of motor mine is. Its a Electro Counter & Motor Co. There wasn't much info on this particular motor.
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    I removed it from the game and instantly realized what the issue was. Every wire from the windings to the circuit board was broken. The circuit board energizes opposite coils to spin the motor spindle. One set is of coils and traces is for forward and one set is for reverse.

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    My first attempt at a repair was to use a piece of 12 gauge copper wire. I removed a single strand and soldered it to what remained of the coil leads. The issue with re wiring the circuit board was that the wire had to be strong enough to hold but flexible enough to route to the circuit board pads. I soldered the leads, resoldered the board and called it a day.
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    The key phrase above is first attempt. The wiring didn't hold. It was too fragile. I redid all the soldering again. This time using 3 strands from the 12 gauge wire. This fix held. I did run into an issue when reinstalling the motor in the game. If the bearing in the circuit board is not exactly centered when screwed onto the main housing, the motor spindle will not be centered between the coils. This will cause it to magnetize and stick to the coil it's closest to preventing it from spinning. After tweaking the alignment of the circuit board and main housing, the motor started working.
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    #9 1 year ago

    Spinning Disc Motor Gearbox

    After I had the motor running, I found that the spinning disks were struggling to turn. The gearbox spindle was really stiff and not rotating freely. This gearbox is a clam style that is riveted together. I took a dremel to the rivet heads and popped them out with a small punch. Someone had gotten very liberal with greasing the gears and the grease had solidified.
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    When I attempted to remove the main spindle it was stuck. It looked like something had marred the rod.
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    A few swipes with some die maker files took the burr off and the spindle came loose.
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    All parts where wiped down, degreased, and lubricated with Super Lube 21030 Translucent White. I used this lubricant throughout the game. It's dielectric, will not solidify, and is food grade. You can literally eat it.
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    After I reassembled everything, I used 2-56 screws cut to length in place of the rivets to close the clam shell back together
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    #10 1 year ago

    Hanging Ball Targets

    Short update today. With the spinning disk motor squared away, I moved to finding out why the game scored 10 pts on every trigger pull. The stars and the hanging balls both have a default point value of 10 points. I unplugged the main target assembly Jones plug from rest of the game and started a game. The game was still registering 10 points on every trigger pull. With the star targets disconnected, this told me it had to be an issue with the ball targets. The switch on the ball targets is a normally closed switch. When the ball is hit, it rotates the shaft it's attached to. The shaft has a flat on one side. This serves as a space for the contact switch to fall into. When the trigger solenoid is energized and this normally closed switch is open, 10 points are registered on the game. On my machine, the switch for one of the balls was open at all times. A small adjustment to the switch and the game began to score correctly.
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    After I finished the adjustments, I removed both ball targets for cleaning. All metal was degreased, dried, and polished. I have seen some games where there is a wear ring around the ball from being shot so much. Luckily, these were in really good shape and just needed some cleaning. The plastic balls were cleaned with Novus 2 to remove some scratches and then with Novus 1.These balls are the exact same as the ones used in the Midway Rifle Gallery just with a hole drilled in them.

    Before

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    After

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    #11 1 year ago

    Its amazing how similar in build EM gun games are to EM pins are to EM Jukes, exc. exc. Nice work!

    Thanks
    Blake

    #12 1 year ago
    Quoted from Blake:

    Its amazing how similar in build EM gun games are to EM pins are to EM Jukes, exc. exc. Nice work!
    Thanks
    Blake

    Thanks. They really are. This is my first EM. The thing I like most about EMs is that you can see every issue. There's no guessing if there is a bad IC chip or transistor. Just switches, solenoids, lamp, and motors. Pure EM goodness.

    #13 1 year ago

    Game Artwork

    The graphics were printed on cardboard and after 60ish years of being shot it, they were not in the best shape. They were faded, had jagged edges, and like most artwork of this kind, they had gotten wavy. To remedy this, someone had put a lot of extra screws through the artwork to hold it down.
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    The 2 worst ones were the bottom graphic and the main target graphics. The bottom graphic had become so wavy that the balls would pile up in front out and not return to the infeed. The main target had a large section of the artwork torn off by the star target not being aligned properly. The eyes were also worn and beginning to tear into the face. To get the graphics out, I used a combination of a putty knife and end nippers. I used Vid's guide removing side rails as a base to remove the artwork https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-side-rails-vids-guide
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    After the artwork was removed, I scanned it all in and stitched it together in GIMP. I use GIMP instead of Photoshop since it free and does the exact same thing photoshop does. After scanning in the artwork, I redrew all the lines
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    #14 1 year ago

    Game Artwork Continued

    I tried to keep all of the mistakes and color from the original artwork. After I was done, I went to my local print shop and had the art printed on adhesive backed Oracal vinyl. The front of the vinyl was then laminated. My plan is to adhere the vinyl to 1/8 inch plexi and reinstall it. I had thought about mirror printing everything and adhering it to the backside of the plexi, but I'm concerned about the glare from the 3 light bulbs in the game washing out all the artwork. The printed art is below. It came out well except for the blue and green on the main target and stars. I had both of them color corrected and reprinted as the colors were too far off and it was killing my OCD. I'm still waiting on the printer to finish them. The good news is that I can use the first run of the targets as practice to see how well the vinyl holds up to being shot. I may print more set of artwork if there is interest here.
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    #15 1 year ago

    You're doing a great job keep posting!

    #16 1 year ago

    Clown Motor

    Before moving onto the main target, I decided to do some cleaning/adjusting. The clown motor was struggling at some points in the game and could work a lot smoother. I removed the nut,washer and contact arm. I decided to leave the contact board and coil wired to the game instead of having to resolder all the wires.
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    I also polished the contact arm and pad on the contact board. The contact board got a light coat of grease and the unit was reassembled.
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    #17 1 year ago

    Great work! Making me excited to jump into my White Lightning project!

    I'm missing the tube from the ball dispenser to the gun.
    I know its ribbed with a metal coil interior, I found some on eBay that looks comparable - ebay.com link » Dental Vacuum Suction Tubing Hose Corrugated 5 8 Id 10 Long Gray
    Can you please measure the inner dimension of yours?
    Also - curious if/why some vinyl tubing from the hardware store wouldn't work

    #18 1 year ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Great work! Making me excited to jump into my White Lightning project!
    I'm missing the tube from the ball dispenser to the gun.
    I know its ribbed with a metal coil interior, I found some on eBay that looks comparable - ebay.com link » Dental Vacuum Suction Tubing Hose Corrugated 5 8 Id 10 Long Gray
    Can you please measure the inner dimension of yours?
    Also - curious if/why some vinyl tubing from the hardware store wouldn't work

    Your game uses smaller balls than mine. The White Lightning uses 1/2 balls. The Deluxe Shooting Gallery uses 11/16. I can measure mine, but it might not be correct for your game. I don't know why it needs the wire reinforcement. Maybe to make sure it wont ever kink. I found this company that sells wire reinforced tubing in a variety of diameters.
    https://www.usplastic.com/search/?it=item&keyword=Vacuum%20Hose&fbclid=IwAR0sq5Adz4on1QLTBJcXrG3hpD1X0OgPgTt-UXxK_XowB3GZR208PJx3654

    #19 1 year ago

    Shot Unit

    The shot unit is more of the same. It's a step/reset style stepper unit. The shot unit controls which of the shot bulbs to light behind the backglass as well as some of the games logic such as when to light certain features. For instance, when the shot unit is at 9 the clown's left eye lights and makes the clown shot worth 80 points. I was careful with the contact disc. The small shoes can be easily damaged. The contact board was cleaned and polished. Again, the contact board, both coils,and the leaf switch were left in the game.

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    Here is a pic of the number of turns my return spring has. There is give a take with every machine, but for mine the spring needed 4 turns from neutral to operate correctly.
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    Parts were cleaned and polished. The rubber washers that are between the assembly and backbox had gotten so hot they had melted. They will need to be replaced.
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    Finished
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    There were 2 issue I ran into when putting the unit back in the game.
    1) The stepper unit stepped but wouldn't reset. I tried to wind the spring more but that didn't help. I had forgotten to grease the contact board and I had screwed the control disc on too tight. After applying grease and loosening the disc a bit the unit started resetting.

    2) The timer started as soon as the coin plunger was pressed. The issue was more of a preference. The leaf switch can be adjusted on this game. You can chose to either have the timer start automatically when the coin plunger is pressed, after the first shot is fired, or after the second shot is fired. Originally, my game started the timer after the second shot. I liked it this way because it helps the player get a few shots in to get used to the shot delay from the compressor before starting the timer. I had to adjust the leaf switch bracket and leaf switch to get it back to this behavior.

    #20 1 year ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    Your game uses smaller balls than mine. The White Lightning uses 1/2 balls. The Deluxe Shooting Gallery uses 11/16. I can measure mine, but it might not be correct for your game. I don't know why it needs the wire reinforcement. Maybe to make sure it wont ever kink. I found this company that sells wire reinforced tubing in a variety of diameters.
    https://www.usplastic.com/search/?it=item&keyword=Vacuum%20Hose&fbclid=IwAR0sq5Adz4on1QLTBJcXrG3hpD1X0OgPgTt-UXxK_XowB3GZR208PJx3654

    Gotchya!

    My rubber washers are also destroyed, have a source? I was considering putting star post rings in.

    1 week later
    #21 1 year ago

    Main Target

    This was the worst part of the entire project so far. While taking this apart, I found even more issues with the game. The reason the lights didn't work in the spinning disks was because the wires had been cut and then assemblies the wires connected to were missing. Two switches for the star targets from the right disk were also missing. Someone had rigged up the only remaining switch so that if any of the stars were hit the vibration would cause the switch to open and register a hit, but this also caused a hit to register if you just shot the disk and missed the target entirely.The main target comes out in one piece after disconnecting the Jones Plugs. It weighs about 20 pounds.
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    I first removed the disks first to make sure I didn't damage them further. They have three pins pressed into them that are secured behind the plate with e clips. 3 rubber cone shaped washers keep the disk from contacting the plate. The left plate is in good condition. Some paint lose but complete with no cracks or chips. The right plate is missing paint and has a chunk missing. There is a crack from where the chunk broke off that will need to be reinforced.
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    Next I removed the clown assembly. The clown move on a small carriage. The carriage rides on a bar and is moved by a length of string wound around a pulley. The motor on the back of the main target handles turning the pulley clockwise or counterclockwise. There is another carriage behind this one. That rides on a separate track. It has 2 snow shoe contacts that ride on a contact board mounted to the back of the target for registering hits. The contacts on the board are for location tracking of the clown. At certain points in the game, the clown movement will become more erratic and the contact board tells the game when to switch the motor forward and reverse based on the clowns positions.
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    When the clown is shot, it falls back which rotates the bar it's on. This closes a switch on one side of the target and tell the game the clown is in the down position. The coil of the other side of the target is then free to fire and rotate the bar back putting the clown back in standing position.
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    #22 1 year ago

    Main Target Continued

    After the clown assembly was removed, the star plate brackets were removed. These are held in place with screws that went through 2 gears in the back of the main target. After removing the clip, you can just slide them out. This is where I noticed the cut light wires.
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    Next I removed the contact boards for the disk assemblies. The boards have 3 circle traces. The inner trace is for the start target switches to ride on.
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    The middle trace is power for the lights and the outer trace is ground for the lights. The are attached with screws from behind the target. After unscrewing them, you cannot just pull them out. There are wires attached to them the have to be desoldered from the back. After that, they can be pulled out.
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    Next the clown eyes assembly was removed. Luckily, the reason the clown's eye didn't light up was because there were no bulbs.

    Side Assemblies were removed, and everything was ready to be cleaned.
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    #23 1 year ago

    Main Target Cleaning

    Before I cleaned the parts, there was a new issue. As I removed the graphics, all of this black dust kept appearing. When I finally removed the first graphic, I found the source. There was a very thin foam under all of the graphics,but it had degraded so much that if you barley touched it, it wound turn to powder. So I took the whole assembly outside to get all the foam/dust out of it. Here are some before and after pics of cleaning all of these parts.
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    #24 1 year ago

    Light Panel

    This was a pain. I removed all the score reels and the two plates that house the score reel.
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    One small catch to doing with is the wiring for bulbs for the Beat Hi-Score and Shoot Again are routed through the lower plate.
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    After I got the light panel out, I removed the 2 false zero digits. The game has 2 false 0 digits that look like complete score reels when the game is assembled. Since all the scoring for the game is in 10's, there is no reason to have a complete mech for the 1's digit in the score and high score. These are very fragile and thin and luckily both of mine were completely intact. When cleaning these and the actual score reels, I only used a slightly damp cloth. Any cleaners (Novus, Alcohol, Windex, etc.) will take the ink right off these. These reels are extremely hard to come by. Here is a before and after cleaning of the false reels.
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    Next I moved onto the two plates that house the score reels. Same issue as all the rest of the metal in the game. The edges were extremely sharp and I lost a couple chunks from my fingers cleaning and polishing theses
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    Lastly, I had to deal with the actual panel. I tried to carefully removed the old foam with a very sharp chisel. The foam needs to be removed so that it stops damaging the backglass. I'll be replacing the foam with the soft side of some velcro to eliminate backglass vibration. The foam removal didn't go well.
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    The panel for the lights was made out of particle board and chipped badly when removing the foam. I thought about just making a whole new panel, but the seemed like overkill. So Bondo, sand, Bond, sand, Bondo, sand.....
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    Then I coated it with a high build primer just to see how much further I need to go. Bondo, sand, Bond, sand, Bondo, sand.....
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    Getting close. I forgot the take a picture of the final product. It's 90+ degrees in my shop and I was drenched in sweat and just wanted to go inside., but it turned out pretty well.
    While I had the lights out the sockets were cleaned. 24 sockets took a while to clean and got screwed back in. Any weak solder joints were touched up. I had been saving these for a rainy day.
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    Nice genuine NOS GE#55 bulbs. Not surprisingly, any non GE bulb was burned out. I only had 1 GE bulb burned out from the original bulbs. They don't make em like they used to.

    While I was messing with the bulbs, I decided to take a stab at the Hi-Score Relay. A lot of the wires had been disconnected. After some trial and error with the wiring, I finally got it working. I might disconnect it though. If there is a high score to beat, the coil stays permanently energized while the game is on. I don't know if I want to run the risk of the coil staying on for long periods of time and burning up. But it was nice to finally see that part of the backglass lit up.

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    #25 1 year ago

    For others doing reels that get damaged easily with moisture, a cheap loaf of white bread will remove the dirt easily with 0 damage risk.

    #26 1 year ago

    Did one of these a couple years ago and ran into very similar issues as you are. Would have been nice if somebody already documented as well as you have. Will certainly be helpful for others in the future. I ended up making some doughnut-shaped discs to protect most of the spinning discs one of mine was also damaged and needed to be repaired. Clear lexan quarter inch thick. Did the trick. Very fun game once you get it all working. Following along.

    #27 1 year ago
    Quoted from dsuperbee:

    For others doing reels that get damaged easily with moisture, a cheap loaf of white bread will remove the dirt easily with 0 damage risk.

    Interesting, never heard of using bread. I have 5 more reels that need cleaning. I'll definitely try this.

    Quoted from stashyboy:

    Did one of these a couple years ago and ran into very similar issues as you are. Would have been nice if somebody already documented as well as you have. Will certainly be helpful for others in the future. I ended up making some doughnut-shaped discs to protect most of the spinning discs one of mine was also damaged and needed to be repaired. Clear lexan quarter inch thick. Did the trick. Very fun game once you get it all working. Following along.

    The lack of documentation on this game is a pain. That's half the reason I'm putting all of this down.Interesting idea to make disc protectors. How did you mount the lexan to the disk?

    #28 1 year ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    Interesting, never heard of using bread. I have 5 more reels that need cleaning. I'll definitely try this.

    The lack of documentation on this game is a pain. That's half the reason I'm putting all of this down.Interesting idea to make disc protectors. How did you mount the lexan to the disk?

    I use three small Phillips flat head nickel plated screws for each disc. Not too obtrusive.

    #29 1 year ago

    Main Target Continued

    I've been trying to figure out how to replace the missing assemblies on the star targets for the lights. I decided to build 2 switches. 1 for the power and 1 for the ground. I ordered all the necessary supplies from PBR. When I got them in, I realized I had messed up. The switches on the backside of the targets aren't regular sized switches. They are relay sized switches. PBR sells entire relays, but I just needed the switches. I message too-many-pins / pinjunk(Ebay) about what I was looking for. too-many-pins is a good guy. Not only did he send me more switches than I needed, just in case I had issues, we also got to talking about repairing my Midway Rifle Gallery next. He found an entire cloth wiring harness(about 4 pounds of wire) that has color combo wires that match my Midway Rifle Gallery so that I can repair the mouse damaged wire with correct wiring after I'm done with this project. The relay switch stacks were a perfect fit. I believe originally the switches for the lights was 1 stack. Only 1 set of holes on the plate are tapped for the same screw size as the other switches for the star targets. The other 2 sets of holes are tapped slightly smaller.
    20190906_192708 (resized).jpg
    I first removed the old wiring and replaced it with black and green wiring. The wire colors correspond to the color of the wire coming off the contact plate the star assembly rides on for easier troubleshooting.
    20190907_174317 (resized).jpg
    The leaf switches from the relays were the correct length for the outer contact ring but were too short for the middle contact ring. I drilled out the leaf switches from PBR to match the relay switch holes and mounted a contact on the new leaf switch. You can see the relay switch stack at the bottom and the switch stack with the PBR leaf at the top right. Then wired the lights to the switches. I set the start target assembly back on the contact plate and tested the lights. Everything checked out.
    20190909_072746 (resized).jpg
    With this working I can now reassemble the main target and get it back in the game.

    1 week later
    #30 1 year ago

    Main Target Graphics

    I got the main target graphics back from the printer after correcting some of the colors. The green and blue were too far off from the original. I was very happy with the reprint. I decided to mount the graphic on Lexan. After the first graphic was done, if I didn't already buy a bunch of Lexan, I would have switched to using something else. Lexan is tough to work with especially with all the edges and curves I am trying to do. The top of the main target was easy. It was just a rectangle. I had my wife help hold the vinyl while I applied it. Much easier with 2 people. Here is a pic of what the original graphics looked like compared to the new ones.
    20190716_174628 - Copy (resized).jpg20190912_174741 (resized).jpg
    The hardest part was doing the large graphic. It need 12 holes drilled precisely. To do the larger holes I used a spade bit. First I drilled a pilot hole to make sure the bit wouldn't wander. Then I drilled a hole in a piece of plywood with the spade bit. I put where I wanted to drill the holes over the piece of plywoods. This allowed me to line up where the hole was going to be drilled.
    20190915_145054 (resized).jpg20190915_151700 (resized).jpg
    Then I mounted the large target graphic and test fit the new graphics to the assembly.
    20190915_164753 (resized).jpg

    #31 1 year ago

    Looking good!

    #32 1 year ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Looking good!

    Thanks. I'm looking forward to playing it again.

    #33 1 year ago

    Main Target Reinstall

    I finished putting the main target back together. It looks so much better now. It went from having over 40 nails and screws in it to having 4 nails for the top and 6 mounting screws for the main target.
    20190916_194451 (resized).jpg
    All the leads were cleaned and soldered back. I went down to the shop and popped it back in the game. Optimistically I started a new game and things went downhill quickly. The score reel was scoring 30 points constantly without me even pulling the gun trigger. The main lights all went out also. I shut the game off and checked the back. I had blown the 10 amp fuse that is responsible for the lighting. Luckily, last week Radioshack was running a sale of fuses so I stocked up in preparation for things going wrong and for troubleshooting my next project. After looking the machine over, the fuse was blowing as soon as the game started but not with the game just on. The left disk lights are suppose to come on during shots 0-2,10-12,and 20-22. If the short was in the left disk, this would explain why the fuse was blowing at the start of the game. I pulled the left disc first, replaced the fuse, and started a game. The game reset properly, the lights worked, and the scoring worked. All the new switches I built for the disk registered hits and the globe lit up for the first time since I've owned the game. Very exciting. So the problem was with the left disk.

    To start to diagnose the issue, I ran alligator clip wires from the beat hi score light to the lights on the disk. The 10 amp fuse started to glow then it popped. So I was right about the short. I disconnected the 2 lamps from each other and ran the test again. Both the lamp lit without blowing the fuse. So, the issue had to be with the switch wiring on the underside. I took the disk over to the bench and unsoldered the switches. At first I thought the cloth wire connecting the two lamps was to blame for the short. I removed and replaced it with a new piece of cloth wire from the cloth wire playfield harness I bought from too-many-pins . After everything was soldered back together I used a 9V battery to test the circuit. Everything lit up. I thought I had found the issue. But while testing with the 9V I accidentally touched the negative lead to the metal plate and the lights came on..... That isn't suppose to happen. Then it dawned on me. There must be a short in one of the switch stacks I built for the lights. If there was a short between the switch stack and the plate, that would cause the 10amp fuse to blow and that would also cause the score reel to keep scoring 30 points over and over since the 3 score switches would be permanently closed because of the short. I took the first switch stack apart and there it was. One of the tubes in the mounting holes had a cut in it that was making contact with the leaf switch which was shorting the leaf switch to the entire metal assembly plate. The tubes had come from some old relay switches and this one must have been brittle or the break was there and I didn't notice. After rebuilding the switch stack and testing the circuit with the 9V everything looks to be correctly wired now.

    #34 1 year ago

    Looking great! I've enjoyed watching your work.

    #35 1 year ago
    Quoted from dsuperbee:

    Looking great! I've enjoyed watching your work.

    Thanks. Glad some people are keeping up with the progress. I had arranged to sell it once I was done putting it back together. So, I started really putting a lot of time back into it, and it stopped being enjoyable But the buyer had some things come up and the sale fell through. I'm not sure if I'm going to finish it (repaint the cab, legs, gun, etc) or just get it back together working properly and sell it as a project to someone who wants to finish it. I've got a Midway Rifle Gallery that I'm really excited about waiting for a restore, but I need to finish or sell this one to get the space and time to work on it.

    #36 1 year ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    Thanks. Glad some people are keeping up with the progress. I had arranged to sell it once I was done putting it back together. So, I started really putting a lot of time back into it, and it stopped being enjoyable But the buyer had some things come up and the sale fell through. I'm not sure if I'm going to finish it (repaint the cab, legs, gun, etc) or just get it back together working properly and sell it as a project to someone who wants to finish it. I've got a Midway Rifle Gallery that I'm really excited about waiting for a restore, but I need to finish or sell this one to get the space and time to work on it.

    Wish I was in the market right now, I would buy it as is. I really like these old vac. Gun games.

    #37 1 year ago
    Quoted from dsuperbee:

    Wish I was in the market right now, I would buy it as is. I really like these old vac. Gun games.

    Hopefully someone will be interested once I get it up and running. These guys are taking up a ton of space

    #38 1 year ago

    Main Target Finished

    Finally done with the main target. It's been installed and tested. It's now working 100%. With all of the cleaning, new decals, new switch assemblies this has been the most time consuming part of the restore. Here is a before and after.
    20190707_150718 (resized).jpg20190920_201729 (resized).jpg
    Now that this is done, I'm going to move to getting the ball targets reinstalled and all the new graphics mounted and installed. I'm still having an issue with the score 1's digit not resetting correctly. This was an issue when I first got the machine, but I had fixed it. Hopefully its just another bad solder joint.

    3 weeks later
    #39 1 year ago

    Reassembly

    It's been awhile since I had time to work on this, but I managed to carve out a little time this past week. I finished cutting the rest of the graphics and took them down to the shop for install. Here is the first test fit of the surrounding graphics. The right is the original and the left is the new one I made.
    20191011_162622 (resized).jpg20191011_165325 (resized).jpg

    The fit was perfect. To install the graphics, I made to nail them back into the cabinet. That meant removing the backglass and side glasses from the game. I didn't want the vibration from the hammering to crack any glass.When I removed the canopy, I realized just how nicely preserved the paint color was. Should be easy to match the original color with the sample under the canopy.
    20191011_164757 (resized).jpg20191011_172407 (resized).jpg

    With the glass off, I installed the side and bottom graphics. The only issue I ran into installing the graphics is the top border graphic is 1/8 in too wide and has to be cut down to fit. After I slim it down, I'll reinstall it and the graphics will finally be done.
    20191012_143805 (resized).jpg

    #40 1 year ago

    Misc Troubleshooting

    After I mounted the graphics, I decided to take the game for a spin to try to get a full list of game issues.

    1) The 1's in the score still wasn't resetting. This was another loose solder joint at the score reel. I re flowed it and now the game is resetting correctly.
    2) The "30 When Lit" clown eye wasn't coming on when it was suppose to. I hadn't realized this bulb blew when I was having grounding issue with the left spinning plate. Replaced the bulb and it worked.
    3) The plates were spinning at a different speed when going counterclockwise vs clockwise. Another loose solder joint at the plate motor. After reflow, the plates spin at the same speed when going counterclockwise and clockwise.

    Only things left to do is get the last graphic mounted and a few other things that need tidying up and I'll be putting it up for sale. I'd love to finish doing the restore and put it in my loft, but I have quite a few other projects and space is at a premium.

    #41 1 year ago

    Misc Find

    As I was checking some of the parts of the compressor, I thought I saw something in the bottom of one of the connectors. Upon further inspection, I thought to myself I recognize that graphic.
    20190720_113639 (resized).jpg

    That is the dancing bear from a Midway Shooting Gallery. I guess they had leftover graphics at the factory and used them to build parts of this compressor.

    #42 1 year ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    Misc Find
    As I was checking some of the parts of the compressor, I thought I saw something in the bottom of one of the connectors. Upon further inspection, I thought to myself I recognize that graphic.
    [quoted image]
    That is the dancing bear from a Midway Shooting Gallery. I guess they had leftover graphics at the factory and used them to build parts of this compressor.

    My grandma's has the same exact thing, but different graphics.

    #43 1 year ago
    Quoted from dsuperbee:

    My grandma's has the same exact thing, but different graphics.

    That's awesome. I figured mine couldn't have been the only one.

    #44 1 year ago

    Wrapping Up Loose Ends

    I got the last part of the scenery installed. It was a bit too wide so it had to be shaved down. I'm pleased with how it turned out.
    DSC_0141 (resized).JPG
    I installed the velcro to the tabs that hold the backglass and to the score reel assembly. This should stop any vibration in the backglass during gameplay.
    20191019_135012 (resized).jpg
    While I was testing the game, the clown stopped moving. Upon further review, the string had snapped. My wife was heading to the craft store. So, I tagged along to see if they didn't have a suitable replacement. I found some cotton cording that was the right size. Putting a new string in was a pain. Getting the string and wheel setup just right so there is enough tension and slack was an exercise in patience. But I finally got it working. Went back to test the game and now the timer isn't running. The switch is making contact. So, I can only assume it's yet another cold solder joint on the timer reel.

    At this point,the only thing left to do is fix the timer and paint the cabinet. But I'm out of room and time for this project so the game is for sale. If I have time to look into the timer I will. If I can't get it sold, I'll probably just put it into storage until I have more room or buy a bigger house, but hopefully it won't come to that.

    #45 1 year ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    Wrapping Up Loose Ends
    I got the last part of the scenery installed. It was a bit too wide so it had to be shaved down. I'm pleased with how it turned out.
    [quoted image]
    I installed the velcro to the tabs that hold the backglass and to the score reel assembly. This should stop any vibration in the backglass during gameplay.
    [quoted image]
    While I was testing the game, the clown stopped moving. Upon further review, the string had snapped. My wife was heading to the craft store. So, I tagged along to see if they didn't have a suitable replacement. I found some cotton cording that was the right size. Putting a new string in was a pain. Getting the string and wheel setup just right so there is enough tension and slack was an exercise in patience. But I finally got it working. Went back to test the game and now the timer isn't running. The switch is making contact. So, I can only assume it's yet another cold solder joint on the timer reel.
    At this point,the only thing left to do is fix the timer and paint the cabinet. But I'm out of room and time for this project so the game is for sale. If I have time to look into the timer I will. If I can't get it sold, I'll probably just put it into storage until I have more room or buy a bigger house, but hopefully it won't come to that.

    The string is a pain in the ass! The original was nylon, would have used something like that. Hopefully, your cotton string will not stretch out over time and start slipping sagging. Great game worth every effort to restore many hours of fun!

    #46 1 year ago
    Quoted from stashyboy:

    The string is a pain in the ass! The original was nylon, would have used something like that. Hopefully, your cotton string will not stretch out over time and start slipping sagging. Great game worth every effort to restore many hours of fun!

    I guess string was the wrong term. I found some cord that is cotton interior with a tough wax exterior. Feels pretty durable. It is a great game and wish I could keep it, but I don't have room for 2 shooting galleries. I'm itching to start on the Rifle Gallery

    1 week later
    #47 1 year ago

    Final Update

    The game has been sold to someone who's going to take it the rest of the way. I'm confident he's going to do a great job. I can't wait to see what he does with it. Thanks for everyone that has been chiming in and keeping up with the restore here. If anyone else has one of these and is running into an issues, feel free to PM me. I'm going to be taking a break from restores for awhile. After my break, I'll be starting on my Midway Rifle Gallery. I'll link the new thread here when I get started. See you then

    3 weeks later
    #48 11 months ago

    I know I said I was taking a break, but the Rifle Gallery calls to me when I'm in my shop. This next restore is going to be a lot slower than the last one because of my schedule, but I'll get it done. Link to the new restore: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/midway-rife-gallery-restore-previous-rat-mansion-

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