(Topic ID: 249322)

Midway Deluxe Shooting Gallery Restore


By edward472

8 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by dudah
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 8 days ago

    I was actually looking for a EM shooting game like Haunted House or Gangbusters to add to my gameroom, but late one night on Facebook Marketplace this game showed up. It had been up for a week so I assumed someone else had bought it, but I shot the guy a message just in case and went to bed. I got up the next morning and to my surprise the guy told me I was the first one to contact him. We messaged back and forth and the story goes that he bought it in an auction years ago with plans to restore it. He was looking to shorten his list of games to restore and this one was at the bottom of the list. He normally dealt in video arcade games. The game had been sitting in the shed ever since. 6 hour round trip with the wife and kid and I was the proud owner of a Midway Deluxe Shooting Gallery. Here's how it looked. I'm going to try to update this thread at least weekly. I already had finished a lot of the restore work already.
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    #2 8 days ago

    After I got it home, I gave it a once over.

    The good:
    It was mostly complete
    It powered up and the compressor worked.
    All the wire was for the most part intact.
    Almost all of the paper labels in the back were intact.
    The backglass was in great condition.

    The bad:
    The game was missing the coin box and clown.
    The game would start sporadically. I would drop a dime in press the plunger and the score reel would spin over and over and the stop on a random digit. then the game would start.
    One of the plates on one of the legs was bent.
    One of the spinning disks was missing a piece
    The spinning disks didn't spin.
    There were some cracks in the vacuum hose.
    The game registered 10 points whenever you pulled the trigger regardless if you shot anything.
    Most of the shot lights in the backglass didn't light up
    Someone painted the entire cabinet purple and then white.
    Almost every metal piece inside the game was corroded. There wasn't a lot of rust which was surprising considering it was stored in a shed in the humid South.

    Luckily, as I was collecting dimes out of the bottom of the cabinet, I saw something in the back. Reached back there and found an envelope and a piece of folded up paper. The envelope had NOS labels for the inside of the game and the piece of paper was the original instructions. Here are pics of the inside of the cabinet. I have scanned both the instructions and labels if anyone is interested in them

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    #3 8 days ago

    Such a cool game! Looking forward to seeing your progress.

    Thanks
    Blake

    #4 8 days ago

    Grandma has one still, been down in the basement since the mid 60s.

    The clowns are always gone, rotted away due to time. There was someone here making the spinning covers, do a search.

    #5 8 days ago

    Backglass Access

    First thing I wanted to check and insure was the backglass. In order to get the the glass, a few things need to be done first. The entire score reel assembly needs to be removed. There are 4 bolts in the 4 corners of the score reel the need to be unscrewed. Before you pull the score reel assembly out, you need to unscrew the 2 light bulb assemblies that are attached to the bottom. You also need to de solder the leads that go to the 2 hanging ball switches. Once that is done, you can pull the whole assembly out. Lastly, there are 2 metal bracket sat the top of the glass that hold the glass against the cabinet. Unscrew them and you should be able to pull the glass out. In my case, the glass was stuck. 30 mins of wiggling and a couple of pairs of pants later, the glass was free

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    #6 8 days ago
    Quoted from dsuperbee:

    Grandma has one still, been down in the basement since the mid 60s.
    The clowns are always gone, rotted away due to time. There was someone here making the spinning covers, do a search.

    I found the guy that was going to do the disks, but he told me he never finished. I did acquire a clown recently, but only because I bought a Midway Rifle Gallery that still had one. I plan to mold and cast a replacement clown, and if I don't find a disk by the end of the restore, I've been discussing with my brother about molding and casting replacement disks.

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    #7 8 days ago

    Backglass Cleaning

    The paint on the backglass was really solid but dirty. There was 1 small place over the number 8 shot that was lifting and someone had done a repair above the Previous Hi-Score. I took some qtips and water and slowly began cleaning the glass. I used an angled LED light I use in the shop to be able to tell where I had cleaned and the places that still needed attention. The places where the foam had made contact were sticky and were actually a thin layer of foam that I can only guess got hot and adhered to the glass. Cleaning the glass this way took about 2 hours.You can still see where the foam was and small amounts of the grey mask is gone, but it didn't go through to the art. I'm planning on replacing the foam with the fuzzy side of small Velcro instead. This should stop the glass from vibrating. I'm still trying to decide if I should seal the glass.

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    #8 7 days ago

    Spinning Disc Motor Repair

    I decided to get the game functional before tearing it down and doing cosmetics. This first glaring issue was the spinning disks not spinning. I have seen some machines where the motor for the clown and the motor for the discs are the same motor (Motoresearch Co. Super Gearmotor 50 volts Spec 3269A) and some where they are different. On my game, the motor for the spinning discs is not the same as the Motoresearch motor for the clown. the only markings on the motor is 15RPM 50V M1056. After a lot of searching, I stumbled on what kind of motor mine is. Its a Electro Counter & Motor Co. There wasn't much info on this particular motor.
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    I removed it from the game and instantly realized what the issue was. Every wire from the windings to the circuit board was broken. The circuit board energizes opposite coils to spin the motor spindle. One set is of coils and traces is for forward and one set is for reverse.

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    My first attempt at a repair was to use a piece of 12 gauge copper wire. I removed a single strand and soldered it to what remained of the coil leads. The issue with re wiring the circuit board was that the wire had to be strong enough to hold but flexible enough to route to the circuit board pads. I soldered the leads, resoldered the board and called it a day.
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    The key phrase above is first attempt. The wiring didn't hold. It was too fragile. I redid all the soldering again. This time using 3 strands from the 12 gauge wire. This fix held. I did run into an issue when reinstalling the motor in the game. If the bearing in the circuit board is not exactly centered when screwed onto the main housing, the motor spindle will not be centered between the coils. This will cause it to magnetize and stick to the coil it's closest to preventing it from spinning. After tweaking the alignment of the circuit board and main housing, the motor started working.
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    #9 7 days ago

    Spinning Disc Motor Gearbox

    After I had the motor running, I found that the spinning disks were struggling to turn. The gearbox spindle was really stiff and not rotating freely. This gearbox is a clam style that is riveted together. I took a dremel to the rivet heads and popped them out with a small punch. Someone had gotten very liberal with greasing the gears and the grease had solidified.
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    When I attempted to remove the main spindle it was stuck. It looked like something had marred the rod.
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    A few swipes with some die maker files took the burr off and the spindle came loose.
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    All parts where wiped down, degreased, and lubricated with Super Lube 21030 Translucent White. I used this lubricant throughout the game. It's dielectric, will not solidify, and is food grade. You can literally eat it.
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    After I reassembled everything, I used 2-56 screws cut to length in place of the rivets to close the clam shell back together
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    #10 6 days ago

    Hanging Ball Targets

    Short update today. With the spinning disk motor squared away, I moved to finding out why the game scored 10 pts on every trigger pull. The stars and the hanging balls both have a default point value of 10 points. I unplugged the main target assembly Jones plug from rest of the game and started a game. The game was still registering 10 points on every trigger pull. With the star targets disconnected, this told me it had to be an issue with the ball targets. The switch on the ball targets is a normally closed switch. When the ball is hit, it rotates the shaft it's attached to. The shaft has a flat on one side. This serves as a space for the contact switch to fall into. When the trigger solenoid is energized and this normally closed switch is open, 10 points are registered on the game. On my machine, the switch for one of the balls was open at all times. A small adjustment to the switch and the game began to score correctly.
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    After I finished the adjustments, I removed both ball targets for cleaning. All metal was degreased, dried, and polished. I have seen some games where there is a wear ring around the ball from being shot so much. Luckily, these were in really good shape and just needed some cleaning. The plastic balls were cleaned with Novus 2 to remove some scratches and then with Novus 1.These balls are the exact same as the ones used in the Midway Rifle Gallery just with a hole drilled in them.

    Before

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    After

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    #11 6 days ago

    Its amazing how similar in build EM gun games are to EM pins are to EM Jukes, exc. exc. Nice work!

    Thanks
    Blake

    #12 6 days ago
    Quoted from Blake:

    Its amazing how similar in build EM gun games are to EM pins are to EM Jukes, exc. exc. Nice work!
    Thanks
    Blake

    Thanks. They really are. This is my first EM. The thing I like most about EMs is that you can see every issue. There's no guessing if there is a bad IC chip or transistor. Just switches, solenoids, lamp, and motors. Pure EM goodness.

    #13 5 days ago

    Game Artwork

    The graphics were printed on cardboard and after 60ish years of being shot it, they were not in the best shape. They were faded, had jagged edges, and like most artwork of this kind, they had gotten wavy. To remedy this, someone had put a lot of extra screws through the artwork to hold it down.
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    The 2 worst ones were the bottom graphic and the main target graphics. The bottom graphic had become so wavy that the balls would pile up in front out and not return to the infeed. The main target had a large section of the artwork torn off by the star target not being aligned properly. The eyes were also worn and beginning to tear into the face. To get the graphics out, I used a combination of a putty knife and end nippers. I used Vid's guide removing side rails as a base to remove the artwork https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-side-rails-vids-guide
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    After the artwork was removed, I scanned it all in and stitched it together in GIMP. I use GIMP instead of Photoshop since it free and does the exact same thing photoshop does. After scanning in the artwork, I redrew all the lines
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    #14 5 days ago

    Game Artwork Continued

    I tried to keep all of the mistakes and color from the original artwork. After I was done, I went to my local print shop and had the art printed on adhesive backed Oracal vinyl. The front of the vinyl was then laminated. My plan is to adhere the vinyl to 1/8 inch plexi and reinstall it. I had thought about mirror printing everything and adhering it to the backside of the plexi, but I'm concerned about the glare from the 3 light bulbs in the game washing out all the artwork. The printed art is below. It came out well except for the blue and green on the main target and stars. I had both of them color corrected and reprinted as the colors were too far off and it was killing my OCD. I'm still waiting on the printer to finish them. The good news is that I can use the first run of the targets as practice to see how well the vinyl holds up to being shot. I may print more set of artwork if there is interest here.
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    #15 5 days ago

    You're doing a great job keep posting!

    #16 1 day ago

    Clown Motor

    Before moving onto the main target, I decided to do some cleaning/adjusting. The clown motor was struggling at some points in the game and could work a lot smoother. I removed the nut,washer and contact arm. I decided to leave the contact board and coil wired to the game instead of having to resolder all the wires.
    20190701_175106 (resized).jpg20190701_175338 (resized).jpg20190702_163647 (resized).jpgThe motor didn't look too bad. There was a good bit of corrosion and grease. The unit was disassembled, degreased, and all the metal was polished to prevent future corrosion
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    I also polished the contact arm and pad on the contact board. The contact board got a light coat of grease and the unit was reassembled.
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    #17 22 hours ago

    Great work! Making me excited to jump into my White Lightning project!

    I'm missing the tube from the ball dispenser to the gun.
    I know its ribbed with a metal coil interior, I found some on eBay that looks comparable - ebay.com link » Dental Vacuum Suction Tubing Hose Corrugated 5 8 Id 10 Long Gray
    Can you please measure the inner dimension of yours?
    Also - curious if/why some vinyl tubing from the hardware store wouldn't work

    #18 22 hours ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Great work! Making me excited to jump into my White Lightning project!
    I'm missing the tube from the ball dispenser to the gun.
    I know its ribbed with a metal coil interior, I found some on eBay that looks comparable - ebay.com link ยป Dental Vacuum Suction Tubing Hose Corrugated 5 8 Id 10 Long Gray
    Can you please measure the inner dimension of yours?
    Also - curious if/why some vinyl tubing from the hardware store wouldn't work

    Your game uses smaller balls than mine. The White Lightning uses 1/2 balls. The Deluxe Shooting Gallery uses 11/16. I can measure mine, but it might not be correct for your game. I don't know why it needs the wire reinforcement. Maybe to make sure it wont ever kink. I found this company that sells wire reinforced tubing in a variety of diameters.
    https://www.usplastic.com/search/?it=item&keyword=Vacuum%20Hose&fbclid=IwAR0sq5Adz4on1QLTBJcXrG3hpD1X0OgPgTt-UXxK_XowB3GZR208PJx3654

    #19 21 hours ago

    Shot Unit

    The shot unit is more of the same. It's a step/reset style stepper unit. The shot unit controls which of the shot bulbs to light behind the backglass as well as some of the games logic such as when to light certain features. For instance, when the shot unit is at 9 the clown's left eye lights and makes the clown shot worth 80 points. I was careful with the contact disc. The small shoes can be easily damaged. The contact board was cleaned and polished. Again, the contact board, both coils,and the leaf switch were left in the game.

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    Here is a pic of the number of turns my return spring has. There is give a take with every machine, but for mine the spring needed 4 turns from neutral to operate correctly.
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    Parts were cleaned and polished. The rubber washers that are between the assembly and backbox had gotten so hot they had melted. They will need to be replaced.
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    Finished
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    There were 2 issue I ran into when putting the unit back in the game.
    1) The stepper unit stepped but wouldn't reset. I tried to wind the spring more but that didn't help. I had forgotten to grease the contact board and I had screwed the control disc on too tight. After applying grease and loosening the disc a bit the unit started resetting.

    2) The timer started as soon as the coin plunger was pressed. The issue was more of a preference. The leaf switch can be adjusted on this game. You can chose to either have the timer start automatically when the coin plunger is pressed, after the first shot is fired, or after the second shot is fired. Originally, my game started the timer after the second shot. I liked it this way because it helps the player get a few shots in to get used to the shot delay from the compressor before starting the timer. I had to adjust the leaf switch bracket and leaf switch to get it back to this behavior.

    #20 21 hours ago
    Quoted from edward472:

    Your game uses smaller balls than mine. The White Lightning uses 1/2 balls. The Deluxe Shooting Gallery uses 11/16. I can measure mine, but it might not be correct for your game. I don't know why it needs the wire reinforcement. Maybe to make sure it wont ever kink. I found this company that sells wire reinforced tubing in a variety of diameters.
    https://www.usplastic.com/search/?it=item&keyword=Vacuum%20Hose&fbclid=IwAR0sq5Adz4on1QLTBJcXrG3hpD1X0OgPgTt-UXxK_XowB3GZR208PJx3654

    Gotchya!

    My rubber washers are also destroyed, have a source? I was considering putting star post rings in.

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