(Topic ID: 225950)

Midway Captain Kid restoration


By dudah

1 year ago



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  • 62 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by coinop_carl
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    There are 62 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 1 year ago

    Picked this up a few months ago and am getting around to it. After much debate, I've decided to do a full restoration on it.
    The game is in great shape overall for its age. The seller said they got it 6 years ago at a storage locker auction and know nothing else about it. While it wasn't necessarily taken care of over the years, at least it was stored indoors.

    The artwork is in excellent shape which will make for some high quality scans. From other photos I've found online the red (pink) seems to fade, mine especially. The aqua color is slightly faded. There is some very slight black webbing over the classic white base. This weekend I seized a sale at Sherwin Williams and got the colors, the aqua matches very well and looks a lot better than what's on there. The red was just close enough and I feel will look great.

    The backglass was in good shape and I already scanned and sealed it.

    I plan to squeeze this down into my basement. My stairs are fairly tight so the plan is to take it apart as much as I can to reduce the size and weight. Paint the cabinet, then reassemble and get it working in the basement. Bold I know, but should be fun!

    Tonight I took a ton of photos, took a lot of stuff apart, organized and securely stored all the parts.

    While I can read schematics, I haven't had the joy of fixing an EM game just yet. This one seemed to work pretty well just playing around with the relays. The two stepper units will certainly need to be cleaned. The score motor assembly all seems to work fine, but I'll likely go down the long road of cleaning and relubing it for the sake of the full restoration.

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    #2 1 year ago

    Nice! Working score motor is gold for these Midways...

    #3 1 year ago

    Scanned and merged the artwork! I get nervous that Photoshop resizes the images. The photomerge doesn't work perfect, I'll have to go over and verify before printing stencils.

    Got my Chicago pneumatic sander working on my new 15 gallon compressor, it'll make quick work out of sanding down the cab. Masking off first!

    captkidmerge (resized).JPG
    #4 1 year ago

    Vectorized the side. About 30 minutes. Certainly getting better at tracing, but small simple images certainly makes it easier.

    kc side (resized).JPG
    #5 1 year ago

    Front vectorized, 40 minutes.

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    #6 1 year ago

    Looking good my man!

    #7 1 year ago

    Last one done, about 30 minutes.

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    #8 1 year ago
    Quoted from PACMAN:

    Looking good my man!

    Thanks for the kind words! Your posts have certainly inspired me to up my game and try new things.

    1 month later
    #9 1 year ago

    Got a lot of projects I'm trying to get painted in the garage so I can bring them in before snowfall.
    Taped up Captain Kidd today and started sanding down the artwork.
    Sanding a little off the top I can see the original unfaded color of the paint, I think the red/pink I got is a little too red, but hopefully it will look good.
    I was planning to use the classic white base that I'm using for my Gottlieb restoration, but may end up going a bit lighter.

    I have a pneumatic sander that's pretty bad ass, and this is still a giant pain. About an hour of sanding tonight making tons of lead paint dust and I'm only about halfway there.

    DSCN4275 (resized).JPGDSCN4284 (resized).JPGDSCN4285 (resized).JPGDSCN4288 (resized).JPG
    #10 1 year ago

    Looking good! Were watching!

    #11 1 year ago

    Raining again tonight, can't finish the sanding.
    Took some time and printed all the stencils. Despite having the files, it's a bit involved in monitoring the Cameo, making patches for what's over the 12" of the mask material, organizing and weeding.
    It also uses quite a bit of material.
    The last roll of Oramask I got on eBay, 150 ft. for $70. So 47 cents per foot.
    This game used 28 feet of material so only about $13 for stencils, not bad.

    DSCN4308 (resized).JPG

    #12 1 year ago

    Looks great so far!!

    CAUTION: If using WHITE auto paint, you only have 24hrs to clear it or it will crack. Found out the hard way.

    #13 1 year ago

    Spent more than a couple of hours doing the rest of the sanding today. Took a long time and was very hard and messy, but I feel very good with the work I did.

    IMG_20181106_190921 (resized).jpg
    #14 1 year ago

    Primed! Spraying with the Harbor Freight gun was very slow and took a lot of primer. Over a full quart of Killz.
    Did I mention I'm doing this back-to-back with my Monster Gun restoration? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1967-midway-monster-gun-repair-and-restoration

    IMG_20181110_164537 (resized).jpg
    3 weeks later
    #15 1 year ago

    Nice work! I am getting ready to restore the cabinet on my Captain Kid. Did you happen to save your stencils after you were done? If not, would you be willing to make and sell another set?

    #16 1 year ago
    Quoted from Flipperover:

    Nice work! I am getting ready to restore the cabinet on my Captain Kid. Did you happen to save your stencils after you were done? If not, would you be willing to make and sell another set?

    I could but the oramask material certainly isn't cheap. PM me your email address and I'll share the files.

    On a heavier note, I hesitated too much on this and now my (detached, non-insulated) garage is far too cold to paint. Bummed as I was hoping to get it all working over winter, but I have a couple other projects to keep me busy. Will pick this back up early spring!

    5 months later
    #17 1 year ago

    Finally decent weather in Chicago!
    Seized some free time with the girlfriend out of town to clean up the garage and lay down the webbing layer!

    Followed this thread exactly: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/homebrew-webbing-step-by-step
    25% glue, 10% thinner, 65% paint.
    I just eyeballed the ratio and then dialed it in on the paint gun.
    Did a few test shots on some cardboard then rolled the games in!
    I noted on my stock monster gun the webbing amount up close, I was going for very fine webbing but also fairly dense.
    Very satisfied with the results!

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    1 week later
    #18 1 year ago

    So this ding dong thought the border at the bottom was black... Undo. My pneumatic orbital sander knocked it out in about 15 minutes.

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    #19 1 year ago

    Laid down the blue base between conference calls today.
    Setup painting and teardown in about 45 minutes.
    Cleaning the gun remains the longest task.
    I don't even bother setting up my "spray booth" or putting on the Tyvek suit anymore.
    The more I painted the more a big bondo spot looked bad so I had to do some sanding on the fly but it all turned out ok!

    IMG_20190614_134730 (resized).jpg

    #20 1 year ago

    Put the stencils on yesterday and today.
    The long stencil (almost 4 ft) was VERY difficult to line up but I managed to get it on with a set of extra hands.

    For the other side, I tried and failed lining it up properly.
    Adding transfer paper to my method which I should have a long time ago.
    The caveat of transfer paper is it's only so transparent so I wasn't able to line up the two pieces accurately enough to be acceptable.

    My solution - add some reference lines that will be shared across two pieces that need to be merged.
    Much easier. I line up the transfer paper almost to the edge, then just sit it in it's partner and apply.
    Also used a felted squeegee spreader that I should've been using since day one.

    Another thing I did was where one color overlaps one - like the blue eyepatch/mouth over the red - I wasn't getting complete coverage and you could see the color underneath.
    So on his face I included the blue to be blocked off so when I go to spray it it'll be blue on white and get some good coverage.
    reg update (resized).JPGIMG_20190615_114146 (resized).jpgIMG_20190615_115917 (resized).jpgIMG_20190615_124846 (resized).jpg

    This latex paint is a pain.
    I've been laying down a light base coat, wait for it to dry a bit, using the heat gun to help accelerate it.
    Then it takes about 5 gradually heavier coats to get some good coverage.
    Should I just do 2 light base coats then a heavy coat and call it a day?

    Still got some good and bad overspray.
    I need to spray white AND webbing again for some the doors of my Monster Gun project so will touch up all the overspray with an airbrush later.
    Overall very happy with the quality.

    IMG_20190615_155222 (resized).jpgIMG_20190615_155117 (resized).jpgIMG_20190615_155123 (resized).jpg

    #21 1 year ago

    So this genius remembered I had a roll of transparent transfer tape... works EXCELLENT!
    Wish it didn't take me until my 4th machine to get this technique down, but I feel much better.
    I already had the left cut so applied that.
    The previous cut maskings with the eyepatch/eye/mouth I just eyeballed where it went, and it came back to bite me.
    Had to print out a separate copy and lay that down.

    Printed out the right side, broke it into 3 big chunks, much easier and more efficient!
    The second layer is easier because you just line it up with the first.
    Masking still takes forever and I did a much better job to avoid the accidental overspray I got on the first layer.

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    #22 1 year ago

    Laid down blue!
    Extremely satisfied with it.
    This time I dialed in a light layer, let it set for a couple minutes, then put on a heavy layer and let it dry.

    Cleaned up the overspray with a magic eraser and 99% alcohol.
    Wiped up the ME mess with a damp paper towel.
    Turned out excellent!
    I'll still airbrush in some white to fill it in, but extremely satisfied!

    Before
    IMG_20190620_202642 (resized).jpg

    After
    IMG_20190620_202824 (resized).jpg

    Almost final
    MVIMG_20190620_204212 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190620_204238 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190620_204244 (resized).jpg

    Now the question - should I clear coat it?
    Never done it before, but am comfortable with the HVLP gun and have a decent enough shitty spray booth in my garage.

    #23 1 year ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    Laid down blue!
    Extremely satisfied with it.
    This time I dialed in a light layer, let it set for a couple minutes, then put on a heavy layer and let it dry.
    Cleaned up the overspray with a magic eraser and 99% alcohol.
    Wiped up the ME mess with a damp paper towel.
    Turned out excellent!
    I'll still airbrush in some white to fill it in, but extremely satisfied!
    Before
    [quoted image]
    After
    [quoted image]
    Almost final
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
    Now the question - should I clear coat it?
    Never done it before, but am comfortable with the HVLP gun and have a decent enough shitty spray booth in my garage.

    I would definitely clear it with a semi-mat auto clear coat

    #24 1 year ago

    Finished touchups with the airbrush today! The latex paint needs to be fairly thinned before it sprays decently. Took off the masking for the first time in a LONG time, very satisfied! The blue is a near perfect match for the Formica. The white is actually a little darker than factory, but I love it!

    IMG_20190623_161356 (resized).jpgIMG_20190623_161701 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190623_161352 (resized).jpg
    #25 1 year ago

    Citra-stripped the coin door. It was in OK shape, the blueish chrome looked pretty good, but I'm going to redo it with hammered gray and think it'll look great! Amazed how much of a beating the coin drop area got!

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    1 week later
    #26 1 year ago

    Not real happy with this hammered paint - https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/universal/universal-hammered-spray-paint/
    (I got the dark gray one).
    First off, the nozzle wasn't spraying right. Little drops of paint dropped onto the door (and all over my hands). I let it dry and laid down another coat since this paint supposedly hides flaws well. This time I used a different nozzle from a similar can type. Looked better, but not the promised effect. Not sure if the different nozzle (from a different paint type) is failing to give the "hammered" effect. Laid down another very heavy coat today, we'll see.
    IMG_20190701_144323 (resized).jpg

    #27 1 year ago

    She's inside!
    Got some help from girlfriend, and took off the rear door with all the EM guts in it.
    All that was inside it was the gun mount and the aiming bakelite.
    It was very light!
    My basement stairs have a weird zig-zag at the bottom, but I previously measured it and knew we'd be good.

    IMG_20190701_143527 (resized).jpgIMG_20190701_143545 (resized).jpgIMG_20190701_143927 (resized).jpg
    #28 1 year ago

    Got the back door back on and gathered the little caches of parts I have scattered around my house.
    I only pulled one piece of the cardboard scenery in order to pull the complete wiring harness.
    I like to make backups of whatever I can scan with my HP scanner.
    I love making reproduction stuff and have been getting very good at it, wish I had more time for it!

    IMG_20190701_220535_167 (resized).jpgcapt kid 003 (resized).jpg
    #29 1 year ago

    Put the target board back in, it's heavy but a very nicely designed assembly.

    What should I do about cleaning and lubricating all the motors?
    The targets all move freely and contacts are much cleaner than I expected.
    Thinking lightly clean with rubbing alcohol where I can, then relubing wiper contacts with SuperLube.

    The score motor is pretty clean but some of the assemblies are sticky.
    Thinking a few drops of 3 in 1 oil to see if that frees things up?

    Brought the coin door in after another heavy coat today, it looks better.
    Not as "hammered" as I was expecting, but certainly some nice detail.

    It also nicely matches the pivoting rifle mount.
    It's a little dinged up and dirty, what's the best way to get this apart?
    These roll pins are intimidating.
    In the past I've had luck getting them out but a hell of a time getting some back in.
    Otherwise may just sand it the best I can and paint it still assembled.

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    1 month later
    #30 11 months ago

    Gun is stained and cleared, painted the butt plate and screws. Let everything dry for 3 days.

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    3 months later
    #31 7 months ago

    Getting into winter mode over here.
    I've got 2 pinball projects ahead of me, so trying to tie up some loose ends first!

    Spent a few hours and did a bunch of stuff tonight:
    Reinstalled the art
    Screwed down the wire harness and jones plugs
    Cleaned off the scenery
    Reinstalled the mirror
    Cleaned a sticky stepper unit
    Cleaned and relubed the two steppers

    Cleaned all the reels with a damp paper towel
    They had some dirt on there, and fortunately the numbers were pretty resilient.
    I used my finger on the paper towel to "scuff up" the white areas - I pressed pretty hard and after a couple passes the dirt comes off.
    I used some alcohol to clean up the stepper edge that had some gunk.
    This took a bit of time

    Took apart the whole score motor assembly cleaned and lubricated everything!
    The whole thing took a little under an hour.
    The assembly is very simply assembled - take pictures as you take stuff off, clean old oil with a paper towel soaked in rubbing alcohol, relubricate moving pieces with SuperLube, reassemble in reverse.
    The first side took longer, second went much faster.
    Cleaned the motor gears and lubed the gears and sides with 3-in-1 oil.
    The score unit assembly was surprisingly clean.
    While it didn't need it, I'm glad I scratched the itch of doing one of these, would do it again.

    Reinstalled in the game and used some Molex connectors!
    Screwed it in, couldn't locate the original hardware so used new philips. The flat head screws in these games are a pain!
    MVIMG_20191110_202715 (resized).jpgDSCN5035 (resized).JPGDSCN5041 (resized).JPGDSCN5042 (resized).JPG

    #32 7 months ago

    Nice, I like the Molex idea. Yes agreed, the score motor assembly looks scarier than it actually is and as they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. That's how I did mine but numbered. Pic below. Ah, the grandkids like when the Pirate starts dancing, lol, they have a hard time hitting it. Question about the Pirate. The plunger used for it has a hole drilled thru it to work the wire-frame popping up the Pirate. Have you ever drilled thru a plunger? My plunger is kinda ratty and Im not able to source one yet so I thought it might be easier to source a standard plunger then drill my own hole.

    score_reel_numbered (resized).jpg
    #33 7 months ago

    I couldn't rest knowing that this game has a risk of smoking.
    Took the reels back out.
    I'd like to continue to disspell the myth that these are hard to work on!!
    4 screws and taking off the connectors and you can slide out a reel assembly.
    2 more screws and you can start taking it apart.
    It's very simple!

    So I inspected all the bakelites and pulled the 2 bad ones.
    One big burn I remember from before but a couple other smaller ones with some divots in the bakelite.
    Cleaned off the lube, used my dremel to drill out the burnt bakelite.
    Mixed up some epoxy resin and filled it in with a toothpick.
    Used a clean toothpick to remove the excess resin and flatten it out.

    Very pleased how easy it was, hoping this gets me onto the next step!

    IMG_20191114_201054 (1) (resized).jpgIMG_20191114_202809 (resized).jpgIMG_20191114_203824 (resized).jpgIMG_20191114_201844 (resized).jpgIMG_20191114_202815 (resized).jpgIMG_20191114_203829 (resized).jpg
    #34 7 months ago
    Quoted from smohr:

    Nice, I like the Molex idea. Yes agreed, the score motor assembly looks scarier than it actually is and as they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. That's how I did mine but numbered. Pic below. Ah, the grandkids like when the Pirate starts dancing, lol, they have a hard time hitting it. Question about the Pirate. The plunger used for it has a hole drilled thru it to work the wire-frame popping up the Pirate. Have you ever drilled thru a plunger? My plunger is kinda ratty and Im not able to source one yet so I thought it might be easier to source a standard plunger then drill my own hole.[quoted image]

    I measured the coil and it's the same length as a slingshot coil.
    I imagine you could take a standard slingshot plunger, tap out the roll pin and be in business!
    https://www.pinballlife.com/slingshotballshooter-plunger-and-link-2-plunger.html

    IMG_20191111_154129 (resized).jpg
    #35 7 months ago

    Testing the UV LED array I bought - looks great!
    Compared to my Monster Gun, definitely brighter!

    IMG_20191114_205824 (resized).jpg
    #36 7 months ago

    Very nice job. Wow those colors are popping. Thanks for the tip on the plunger.

    #37 7 months ago

    Score reels reinstalled - no burning!
    Again - VERY easy to work on them!

    Replaced the fuse block as the old one was falling apart.
    Some ding-dong put 20/30 amp fuses in the 10 amp slots, fixed that.

    The game coins up and plays for the most part!
    Still have some digging to do:
    The pirate motor reset relay is stuck on
    The flag #2 motor doesn't work - I tried to trip the relay and can only get it to light up
    While flag #1 works, it doesn't activate in the program
    Nothing seems to advance the pirate dance stepper
    The trigger switch doesn't work

    IMG_20191115_174544 (resized).jpg
    #38 7 months ago

    I am just starting to encounter some sporadic behavior after 4 months of use. I knew it may creep up at sometime and I think it's know. The Jones Plugs on the bottom board are pretty messed up even after cleaning them. If I re-insert the plug multiple times it will give me a clean connection and everything works fine (especially the connection for the pirate). I've notice some quirkiness when wiggling the plugs. So I am starting to replace all the jones plug on the bottom board.

    #39 7 months ago
    Quoted from smohr:

    I am just starting to encounter some sporadic behavior after 4 months of use.

    I believe it! Spent some time trying to dig into the issues tonight.
    I took a piece of sandpaper folded over some old hotel keycards and finished sanding down the jones plugs.
    I've been using the flexstone to lightly sand the switch points, but after trying to clean them with some paper I've found that they're ALL filthy!
    Need to clean a lot more.
    Cleaning the relays is very tough with the flexstone I have (Steve Young), it doesn't fit between the switch points so I have to remove the relay to loosen them up.

    Cleaned up a bunch of switch points on the target assembly and some of the relays and got a little further!
    -The "after 5 shots" relay now trips
    -Games now end after the programmed time
    -One of the flags now tries to goes up but a coil isn't locking on

    The bad:
    -The whole pirate circuit isn't working, the pirate reverse relay is still locked on
    -Only one flag is going up. This is due to the pirate reverse relay being stuck on
    -The shot counter works inconsistently

    #40 7 months ago
    Quoted from smohr:

    I am just starting to encounter some sporadic behavior after 4 months of use. I knew it may creep up at sometime and I think it's know. The Jones Plugs on the bottom board are pretty messed up even after cleaning them. If I re-insert the plug multiple times it will give me a clean connection and everything works fine (especially the connection for the pirate). I've notice some quirkiness when wiggling the plugs. So I am starting to replace all the jones plug on the bottom board.

    What connectors would you replace them with?

    Before you go to that effort, I'd first try to clean them up.
    I first went over the outsides of the pins with this amazon.com link »
    Today the sandpaper between the hotel keycards worked to help get the rest!

    1 week later
    #41 7 months ago

    I cleaned the plugs up and they are shiny, made things better.

    I have extra jones plugs that I was gonna use.

    Hey, did you ever come up with a way to create the masking layer for the backglass on the Monster Gun project? I have my Captain translate arriving soon and need to come up with a plan.

    thanks
    Steve

    #42 7 months ago
    Quoted from smohr:

    I cleaned the plugs up and they are shiny, made things better.
    I have extra jones plugs that I was gonna use.
    Hey, did you ever come up with a way to create the masking layer for the backglass on the Monster Gun project? I have my Captain translate arriving soon and need to come up with a plan.
    thanks
    Steve

    Cleaned up the Jones plugs on the target assembly even more tonight. Got a green 3M pad and went ham in between all the pins.
    I also took my multimeter and tested for continuity on all of the switch contacts (on the target assembly). A few needed to be cleaned!

    I ran through a game and the flag #2 now triggers completely and automatically (#1 still doesn't trigger, but it works if I trip the relay).
    Guessing now my issues all lie in the backbox.
    The Midway relay switch gaps are too thin for my flexstone, so I will have to get creative with some sandpaper.

    IMG_0035 (resized).JPEG
    #43 7 months ago

    Diving a little deeper today!

    Went through the schematic and realized the relationship between the pirate disc/contacts and the operation of the pirate dance relay, pirate dance stepper, and pirate reverse relay (to create the "random" effect).
    The pirate dance motor would go on for a second and then turn off and maybe coast for an inch.
    If I continued moving it in the previous direction of travel it would "pick up" on a nearby contact and continue the "random" sequence (advancing through the pirate stepper).
    I noticed if it didn't make it to the next contact the pirate stepper coil would either lock on or not trigger at all.

    I took off the pirate motor mech - 4 screws and a few wire connectors
    The gears move pretty freely and aren't gummed up with old grease, I put a few drops of 3-in-1 oil on them
    I didn't drill out the rivets to inspect the rotors inside the coils.
    I previously noticed how one direction made a buzzing noise - is this bad? Should I clean them or something?

    Re-cleaned the pirate board, lightly sanded the contacts with 400 grit.
    Went over the jones plugs again with 400 grit sandpaper as well as the fine 3M drill attachment.
    VERY lightly lubricated it (this time).
    I then got the continuity meter setup with the switch wipers on one end and the jones plug on the other.
    Tested for continuity at all contact points to the Jones plug!
    Also re-went over the pirate stepper unit sanding the contacts with 400 grit and very lightly relubricating.
    Reassembling, I was also very conscious of how much pressure was being put on the two switch wipers.

    Plugged it in and tested.
    At first it was the same results - motor would turn on for a second then turn off and coast a bit but not make the next contact.
    I pushed it in the way it was going and got it to caught, sometimes it would go through the dance sequence for a few seconds, then stop again.
    I kept pushing it the way it was going as the game was running and the pirate dance stepper eventually kept going.
    I think after cleaning and relubing the contacts had to make initial contact and then were good!
    Now it will continue running through the dance sequence!

    Solid progress!

    #44 7 months ago

    Very solid progress....

    I had similar situation, cleaning and a light lube took care of that. It's been going for a couple of months now.

    that Pirate dancing really aggravates the grandkids.. I just laugh...

    I was told my game sat in storage since 1998 till I bought it in May 2019. So cleaning, re-cleaning and still re-cleaning some contacts when issues pop-up.

    Thanksgiving Holiday was a real test. We had almost 20 family members over for the big feast our Basementcade got used hard. Besides a few bulb issues everything survived.

    #45 7 months ago

    Forgot to mention earlier, but I trade an erratic wire to the pirate dance switch wiper arm. The 3 conductor cable running to it had bent too many times in its life.

    I'm stuck at trying to get the left flag (#2) to go up.
    At most, I can get the flag #2 relay to flutter a bit.
    Cleaned up the switches on the flags - now I clean with some paper before filing as there's a good amount of carbon buildup!
    Also cleaned the flag relay, start relay, pirate reverse relay (which switches which flag is active) and some score/control relays.

    While the pirate dance works, I'm not convinced it's working 100%.
    From looking at other Youtube videos, it appears it should be going all the time.

    Here's what mine's doing:


    Any input would be appreciated!

    ck1 (resized).jpgck2 (resized).jpg
    #46 7 months ago

    Im unable to view your video... says it is private...

    My Pirate always dances after 5 shots

    This cause my flag issue... broke gear (see pic)

    broken_gear (resized).jpg
    2 months later
    #47 4 months ago

    Did some powder coating at the maker space recently!
    Taught myself, bought some hammered gray color.
    Stripped the coin door (AGAIN) and sandblasted it.
    Stripping the paint off of the rifle mount was a bitch. Lots of citra strip, lots of sandblasting. Finally got it to a point where it was good to go.
    Mounting it upside down I was worried powder would get in between the rifle mount and the lower base, and once baked it wouldn't be able to move left/right.
    While spraying it, I had the rifle mount flush with the base, then before baking I was able to push it from the top (bottom of base) and put a slight distance.
    Once it came out of the oven I also move it to make sure it was free.
    Also by hanging it upside down, I was able to gently move the rifle forward/back to ensure complete powder coverage.
    VERY happy I didn't have to remove any roll pins!

    EXTREMELY happy with the results!
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_imagea (resized).pngpasted_imageaf (resized).pngpasted_imagee (resized).png

    #48 4 months ago

    Rifle was done in a gunpowder with a clear to make it pop!
    Top is cleared, bottom isn't.
    I was pleased with how well the powder stuck to all areas of the chain.
    pasted_image (resized).png

    #49 4 months ago

    Coin door

    pasted_imagea (resized).pngpasted_imagef (resized).pngpasted_images (resized).png
    #50 4 months ago

    What we all do for the love of keeping these games alive is awesome. Nice work!

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