(Topic ID: 193062)

Middle Earth Solenoid Issue

By BabyPac

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by BabyPac
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 6 years ago

The main 5A SB (replaced the 15A FB as recommended) is blowing and taking out some of the solenoid fuses on the fuse board as well. Presuming it's the bridge rectifier C3 here giving too much juice?

It wasn't blowing out the 15A FB but it would blow out ALL the solenoid fuses on the fuse board; now with the 5A SB main it's just taking out a couple of the fuse board 2A SB before giving way.

So, bridge rectifier C3 most likely culprit as if it were some of the transistors on the main board for the solenoids, it wouldn't get all the way back to the 5A SB main - it would just take out the corresponding fuses on the fuse board, correct?

TIA!

#2 6 years ago

Sorry, don't mean to hijack your post, but I'm wondering if you could check something for me. I'm having an issue tracking down the cause of some hot components in my Airborne Avenger (another Atari Sys 1). See post here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/atari-airborne-avenger-capacitor-overheating-on-processor-pcb

Anyway, I think ME's processor pcb is similar to my AA board. Back near J9 (mostly around C17), I'm picking up 500F from that area on my IR thermometer. Does your board seem to run hot in that area?

I'd try to help you with your question, but you probably already know more than I do (again, see my post). With that disclaimer in mind, what you're saying seems right; the 5A wouldn't blow from a faulty board component. Again... take that with a mountain of salt.

#3 6 years ago

A bridge rectifier should only have a slight change in voltage when operating properly.

However, a short could blow fuses. Basically, it's a component with 4 diodes arranged in a certain way, and you can easily test for a failure in moat situations.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier

#4 6 years ago

Hmm. . . sometimes when powering on, the 5V is about 8.8v. Other times, several solenoids lock up. Then, other times, the voltage is about 4.8 and everything operates normally, save for the aforementioned solenoid issues.

I've replaced several of the 6044 transistors and have brought some of the solenoids back from the dead but changing some of the 6044s has no effect. Having a hard time finding the chip that controls the switches for the solenoids on the schems. Wondering if it's not a chip issue on the remaining bad solenoids.

More concerning is the varying voltages upon power on. Any advice there - really want to avoid anything but 5v on startup, of course.

TIA

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from Ramtuathal:

Sorry, don't mean to hijack your post, but I'm wondering if you could check something for me. I'm having an issue tracking down the cause of some hot components in my Airborne Avenger (another Atari Sys 1). See post here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/atari-airborne-avenger-capacitor-overheating-on-processor-pcb
Anyway, I think ME's processor pcb is similar to my AA board. Back near J9 (mostly around C17), I'm picking up 500F from that area on my IR thermometer. Does your board seem to run hot in that area?
I'd try to help you with your question, but you probably already know more than I do (again, see my post). With that disclaimer in mind, what you're saying seems right; the 5A wouldn't blow from a faulty board component. Again... take that with a mountain of salt.

No. Only area that is hot is the large ceramic resistor near the 5v regulator, near the solenoid section.

#6 6 years ago

Ah! Started focusing on the voltage regulator on the main PCB and noticed it didn't have any nuts on the end of the screws. Surely, they should be there. Checked pic online - yup. Nuts missing. Nuts installed. Consistent 4.88v every time turning it on now without fail!

Now, back to the solenoid issues. . .

Only ones that are still dead are 1 (outhole), 3 (upper drops), 6 (lower drops). Upper drops, when power is applied, stays engaged constantly (disconnected power for now). Lower drops and outhole seem to get no power.

#7 6 years ago

Lower drops was just the 6044 transistor - all good now. Outhole and upper drops next.

1 week later
#8 6 years ago

While troubleshooting the outhole solenoid issue, mistakes were made:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/middle-earth-dead-switches#post-3870963

EDIT: Switches fixed.

1 week later
#9 6 years ago

Upper drop target solenoid was remaining on all the time. Transistor and diode replaced - no change. 9334 at C14 changed out (74LS259 subbed in) and that took care of it.

Outhole - would rapidly stutter and blow out the fuse. Replaced transistor and diode as well as the 9334 at C13 - now just blows out fuse after kicking weakly once. Will update when fixed. Suspecting diode on coil or coil itself.

#10 6 years ago

Outhole kicker was the coil itself.

100% working now!

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