(Topic ID: 258380)

MIBS recessed “WHEN LIT” caps


By The--Who

1 year ago

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Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by The-Who
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You

Linked Games

  • Mibs Gottlieb, 1969
#1 1 year ago

Got my MIBS up and running great, other than waiting for a bulb order to arrive in order to relamp everything.

The only problem I am having is the ball sticking at a couple of the 500 POINTS “WHEN LIT” caps that are above the marble rollovers. The front edge has recessed enough over the years that a slow moving ball will stop on it. Sometimes you can nudge it free, others times it will tilt before releasing.

Any remedy for this?
Thanks for any help,
Denny
21A8812C-3586-4D8A-A98D-16EA835893BE (resized).jpeg

#2 1 year ago

Those, just for reference, are 'inserts.' One thing you can do it to crank up the back feet; makes for a funner fast-moving game. And yes, funner is a word.

#3 1 year ago

Clear Mylar circles can be stuck to the cupped insert. Building up the cupping to a better surface. This is a reversible fix.

#4 1 year ago

Where do you get "clear mylar circles"? I have the same problem on a machine or two of mine. By they way, I've got the rear legs up about as high as they can go and I still get balls stuck on these lighted inserts. Thanks.

#5 1 year ago

I like to clean the area to degrease it, level the playfield up and mix a little 2 pack lacquer up in say, the cap off an aerosol can and apply a few drops onto to recessed insert. It levels itself out, seals the insert against future sinkage and stops the woodwork from getting any further damage.

#6 1 year ago

solarez gloss uv cured resin - amazon.com link » - works pretty well and process is similar to the lacquer:

- level playfield
- drop in enough solarez to fill insert
- put a clear plastic cover over area to flatten the doming from surface tension - I used a piece of a thick paper sheet protector
- shine black light on it to cure the resin
- peel off the plastic and done. No waiting or shrinkage like solvent-based solutions.

#7 1 year ago

Ok, some great information. I have a couple of clarifying questions. First, when you say "level the playfield", you mean that it needs to be adjusted so that it is level in ALL directions, not just left to right, correct? Left to right AND front to back? Also, can you clarify what you mean by "paper sheet protector"? Is that the clear plastic that we used to use on a 81/2 X 11" sheet of paper, like for protecting a report of some kind while still allowing a person to see the text through the protector sheet? I assume you cut the plastic protector sheet to the size that you need, apply the resin to the playfield insert, put the plastic protector on top of the insert, then use the blue light to cure the resin, correct? If so, what stops the plastic protector piece from getting stuck to the cured resin? If it sticks to the plastic insert, why won't it stick to the protector sheet? Sorry for all of the questions, I'm thinking about doing this and I don't want to screw it up. Thanks.

#8 1 year ago

In my post, I meant that the playfield itself needs to be perfectly level only as the lacquer, being liquid, will find the lowest point unless its base is level. Basically, you'll get runs of the stuff where you dont want it
I have never tried the other approach so cannot comment.

#9 1 year ago

OK, "Classicp....", I get what you mean about leveling the field. We are saying the same thing. What is "2 pack lacquer"? I'm familiar with 2 part epoxy, but not 2 pack lacquer. Can you give me more info on that? Sounds like the simplest way to go. Thanks.

#10 1 year ago

It's the same top coat lacquer as used on a car with metallic/mica paintwork.
I mix mine up from a 1ltr can (about a 10th of US gallon I guess) by filling an egg cup full, putting that into an old, clean cup, and half an egg cup of the hardener ( 2 to 1 mix ratio) and that too goes into the cup. Then mix it up with a small brush, and apply. It will cure rock hard in about 20 minutes @20 degrees F.
Important: Do bear in mind the safety aspects when using this as it is toxic so take sensible precautions in handling, mixing and use in a very well ventilated area. Like anything, safe enough if used correctly.
Edit: 2 part - 2 pack, same thing US/UK terminology

#11 1 year ago

Ok, I think I got it. That was helpful. Thanks!

1 month later
#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Darcy:

Clear Mylar circles can be stuck to the cupped insert. Building up the cupping to a better surface. This is a reversible fix.

Bought these on Amazon and they seem to be doing the job. Some inserts worked fine after only one, some others took a few.
84A122FD-8865-4168-B7F5-3393406BD918 (resized).jpeg

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from valveamp:

Where do you get "clear mylar circles"? I have the same problem on a machine or two of mine. By they way, I've got the rear legs up about as high as they can go and I still get balls stuck on these lighted inserts. Thanks.

Bought these on Amazon and they seem to be doing the job. Some inserts worked fine after only one, some others took a few.

99215238-9F56-4696-BC83-E9E31FECF8C0 (resized).jpeg

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