Hey neat, my grand champion score held up for the rest of the weekend! Thanks for writing all of this up. I cant wait to play the finished product while begging for help with my own build a ways down the road!
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Hey neat, my grand champion score held up for the rest of the weekend! Thanks for writing all of this up. I cant wait to play the finished product while begging for help with my own build a ways down the road!
Quoted from TheArrrrrcade:Metroid was nominated for a best homebrew TWIPY! It's up against some cool games, but I hope you consider voting for me!
https://www.thisweekinpinball.com/quiz/twipy-2019-ballot/
you know I did
Quoted from TheArrrrrcade:Redesigned the upper flipper area. Added a target and changed out the rubber behind the flipper for a wireform rail.
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I recently added a similar target in front of my upper flipper. . I'd be interested to see if the wireform behind the flipper stops balls shot into the back of the flipper while it's held as well as a metal wall guide would.
Nice to be reminded that Metroid has a little Sonic in it. id put a rubber on that post unless you want hot metal on metal action. consider using a sleeve post instead?
Quoted from TheArrrrrcade:I think just adding a ring to this post would be enough. I started testing without it and decided it wasn't necessary. I'll probably do some testing with it on and see if there's any difference. I'm trying to avoid closing up the ramp shot, even if it's just 1/8". This spot is mostly only hit by a backhand from the left flipper but it's not impossible to nick the post from a right flipper shot.
My bad, For some reason I thought this was the upper side ramp that is shot from very close when i made that comment. I was worried about the bounces off a traditional rubber hence the post suggestion. Id still put a rubber on it. if you hit your ramp edge enough times or hard enough to break it you will hit this for sure. maybe move it forward a bit and snuggle it up to the pop bumper to avoid closing the shot?
Quoted from TheArrrrrcade:And I added a post under the apron by the ball eject. I'm surprised I could tolerate the ball getting stuck there for as long as I did. Only took 2 tries to position it correctly.[quoted image]
Huh... I put a post there too and thought I was being silly for doing so. Mine is loose so the post actually spins freely.
Quoted from TheArrrrrcade:It absolutely is a better choice. There just isn't room below the playfield in this case:[quoted image]
Not with that attitude!
Quoted from TheArrrrrcade:I believe McSquid is using Spraymax 2k in a can: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spraymax-2k-auto-clear-in-a-can-club
Thanks! The CNC machine for the playfields is at my local maker space. They have a big Shopbot that I can use. When I need metal cut then I send it out to an online laser cutting service and bend it myself. I do any welding at the maker space.
This is correct spraymax 2k
Quoted from TheArrrrrcade:No more foam core back board
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I need to do this. I just straight up don't have one.
You could run a forstner bit through the holes instead of doing a whole new 3D print run. All my post holes were too small but the forstner bits make quick and clean work of them
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