Here's a video of the better upper flipper setup. It acts as a second chance to hit the side ramp.
Ball is a pretty perfect fit. I don't think those rubbers are going anywhere either. We'll see after a few hundred more games...
(and yes, I am aware at how bad the condition of that ball is. I've been using used balls that I've taken out of games and then accidently dropped them on concrete a few dozen times)
PXL_20210114_001639901 (resized).jpgI guess I shouldn't have been using an old post. This one snapped in two so I bought some new ones to replace both of the ramp posts.
Most of the changes recently have been with the code. Revamped the music engine. There's now less complexity in how it handles playing new tracks. This allowed me to implement multiball music and return to the original music automatically when done. Also actually implemented the multiball rule where it closes the doors and locks you into your room/mode.
Upper playfield rules are starting to come together. Removed flipper lane change up there. Now you have to hit each lane 3 times separately. After they are all lit the last one will be blinking. Going from the VUK to a lane changes which one is blinking. Hitting the side ramp locks in and starts a mode, one for each lane. Tentative modes are Spider Rail, Bridge Attack, and Secrets. That's still a work in progress.
PXL_20210126_045024109 (resized).jpgPXL_20210126_045734276 (resized).jpgPXL_20210130_133112236 (resized).jpgYikes! wonder how many impacts that took to snap that. Those high impact areas, you might want thru-posts to T-nuts underneath, no? Love seeing progress on this, game looks awesome!
Quoted from Mbecker:Yikes! wonder how many impacts that took to snap that. Those high impact areas, you might want thru-posts to T-nuts underneath, no?
Yeah, Ideally these suckers
https://www.pinballlife.com/2-14-tall-metal-post-with-threaded-base-and-female-threaded-top.html
or do what stern and some WMS pins do and put thin targets on both sides of the ramp if there's space
Quoted from Mbecker:Yikes! wonder how many impacts that took to snap that. Those high impact areas, you might want thru-posts to T-nuts underneath, no? Love seeing progress on this, game looks awesome!
Quoted from Linolium:Yeah, Ideally these suckers
https://www.pinballlife.com/2-14-tall-metal-post-with-threaded-base-and-female-threaded-top.html
or do what stern and some WMS pins do and put thin targets on both sides of the ramp if there's space
Can't. I'm not moving the pop or the scoop and there really isn't room underneath: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/metroid-pinball/page/5#post-6044323
In almost all other cases I am using the posts with threaded bases and t-nuts. These posts were corroded when I pulled them from the scrap playfield. Also they were 20 something years old and had plenty of time to weaken.
You shouldnt need to move those mechs though— just drill a 1/2” hole in about 1/8” for the t nut to sit below the mechs, and cut the post threads to they don’t protrude beyond the t nut.
I had some similar issues and cut pieces of my pop bumper plastic out to accommodate lol. Not for t-nuts but to fit around other stuff.
I’m sure the new posts will hold up for quite a while but hate to see those in high impact areas non the less
It's update time! I have some unexpected time off from work so building pinball is my "job" again!
First thing that I need to tackle is bending the final guide rails. This metal is much thicker. The previous guide rails used 1/32" aluminum, this is 1/16" steel. So to get them just the right shape (or close enough) I am trying out making some bending templates.
PXL_20210309_152752975.MP (resized).jpg
All cut out and labeled.
PXL_20210309_221317256 (resized).jpg
And they will be used with the previous layout template, even though there are a few minor changes.
PXL_20210310_135903189 (resized).jpg
Time for Bender to get to work!
PXL_20210310_233842794 (resized).jpg
Good job Bender! I only screwed up one rail that will need to be remade and broke one weld that needs to be fixed. I'm still crap at welding.
Steve Ritchie told me that my game was too dark and that I should fix that by adding more lights. He didn't say what kind of lights so I'll be adding a bunch more inserts (some with multiple LEDs) and some overhead light bars.
I'm using a half meter of 60 LED per meter strip and standard LED channel to build them.
PXL_20210311_180055077 (resized).jpg
And they will be mounted to the playfield using tall hex spacers and the super useful Hillman Obtuse Angle Corner Plates.
PXL_20210312_151907689 (resized).jpg
They get epoxied into the channel and used light pressure to keep them in place until fully dry.
PXL_20210312_155846783 (resized).jpg
Success! I can now light each part of the playfield individually. I already have a similar strip in the back of the playfield. I just need to upgrade it to this design.
PXL_20210312_165907775 (resized).jpg
No taking out your brand name overhead lighting if you want to lift the playfield. These are screwed right on.
I have an Arduino based test pattern to check them out. These strips are fully compatible with the existing light system. I just need to wire up a couple more channels to the Fade Candy in order to hook them up. That can wait until the next version of the playfield.
Speaking of the next version. It's time.
PXL_20210313_162249303 (resized).jpg
And this is why you should make sure your bits are super tight. This one slipped down and dragged across the playfield. Good thing that happened early on in the cut and not 4 hours in. And also good thing I brought a spare blank. At least now I have a spare piece of playfield wood to test some ideas for next time.
PXL_20210313_165332052.MP (resized).jpg
Many hours later...
PXL_20210313_212550917 (resized).jpg
It's done!
PXL_20210313_230551750 (resized).jpg
The bottom is even fully dimpled!
And that brings us up to date. I was hoping this was the final playfield but the art won't be ready in time for fall shows. We'll be adding some decal art a la Sonic Spinball to hold us over. Expo or bust.
Quoted from McSquid:thats good scrap wire dont toss that! haha
If I could have recycled it then I would. I have plenty more so no need to reuse it.
I'm not a big fan of welding. So today I converted my subway parts over to a no-weld design. Metal parts are now screwed together.
cad_no_weld_pit (resized).png
cad_no_weld_subway (resized).png
And made some mounts to position the optos correctly. They will be 3d printed.
cad_no_weld_left_opto_mount (resized).png
cad_no_weld_right_opto_mount (resized).png
What happened this week? First I fixed this prototype metal ball guide. It was loose, a screw had fallen out, and the rivets were shot. I could have installed the final version but decided to fix this one instead. So after gluing toothpicks in the screw holes and tightening the rivets up it was installed using longer screws. This should last for the remaining life of this playfield.
PXL_20210426_184839289 (resized).jpgNext up is finalizing the playfield. I taped down an extra playfield template that I had laying around. Then added pilot holes for screwing the side rails in.
PXL_20210430_143034739.MP (resized).jpg
I forgot to add a pilot hole for the trough outkicker post in CAD. I used a template to find the correct positioning.
PXL_20210430_143621103 (resized).jpg
Same with the new posts around the ramps.
PXL_20210430_144029323 (resized).jpg
Then it had to be sanded more so I spent some time doing that.
PXL_20210430_152033078 (resized).jpg
Nice and flat. It's probably ready for clear coat.
Turns out that I need a new floor piece for this subway. I downloaded a switch bracket model that doesn't seem to line up with reality. So I modeled the parts that I have on hand and redesigned the mount. I really should have eliminated the bracket altogether but whatever...
cad_rollover_assembly (resized).png
cad_subway_new_rollover (resized).png
I was on a podcast! Metroid was slightly off topic. I'm pretty sure it's more than "almost" pinball.
Quoted from JagDaniels:Great stream, awesome project. Love it
Thanks for hanging out!
I have a couple of plastic diverters to prevent ball hang ups or unfair airball drains. The originals were hacked together and broke all the time.
PXL_20210511_181340003 (resized).jpg
This one just cracked apart after months of abuse. I think this is the third one.
PXL_20210511_182555555.MP (resized).jpg
Bent some plastic to make one piece versions. Less failure points, stronger plastic.
PXL_20210511_181212106 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210511_181225260 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Mbecker:Water slide, yeah? Then you’ll clear over it?
That's the plan. Worked well for Sonic. Wish this was the last playfield but I'll make it work
Designed a mount for a horizontal LED. Hoping it acts like a spotlight for the area just above each of the flippers. My bulb style GI light does not fit because the flipper mech gets in the way. If you notice under the inlane plastics in the current version there's only one bulb where most games have two.
cad_flipper_spotlight (resized).png
PXL_20210517_181852903 (resized).jpg
Quoted from TheArrrrrcade:I think this will work... Decals layered between clear coat. Not going to use the white backed decals due to problems with the ink flaking. Transparent looks fine.
[quoted image]
Looking forward to see that!
What did you guys use for your clear coat? Both of your projects are really inspiring. Thanks for all of the updates!
Quoted from Palmer:What did you guys use for your clear coat? Both of your projects are really inspiring. Thanks for all of the updates!
I believe McSquid is using Spraymax 2k in a can: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spraymax-2k-auto-clear-in-a-can-club
Quoted from CaptainNeo:looking great. It's awesome you have all this equipment to make all the wood and metal pieces.
Thanks! The CNC machine for the playfields is at my local maker space. They have a big Shopbot that I can use. When I need metal cut then I send it out to an online laser cutting service and bend it myself. I do any welding at the maker space.
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