(Topic ID: 153718)

Methods for repairing fine traces

By thedefog

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by thedefog
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 8 years ago

    I've come across many boards throughout the years, and usually when very fine traces have been lifted/pulled up, the only method I find to work well for repairing is to use jumpers on the opposite side of the board (which I HATE doing). If there are multiple lifted traces that are extremely fine, I'll usually pass on repairing it entirely.

    Does anyone have any secret methods for replacing very fine traces? I've used extremely small gauge copper wire strands for trace repairs, epoxying it in place with high-temp epoxy. But I hate doing this as it is extremely time consuming, difficult on very small traces, and often times the pads are lifted as well when I come across these damaged boards, which makes it even more of pain to repair and not worth the time.

    Is there any kind of conductive epoxy that can "draw" in these very fine traces that actually works well, or is this just wishful thinking? It would be great to just repair a pad, then draw in the lifted trace.

    #2 8 years ago

    there's some really good info/links in this thread.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-with-trace-repair#post-2703891

    #3 8 years ago

    Rear window defogger repair kit?

    #4 8 years ago

    This is fine for large trace repair, but really fine stuff is what I want to know about, like single strand of stranded copper wire thin.

    #5 8 years ago

    you dont want much, do you? lol.
    trace repair is indeed an art. you are already doin much of what is possible.
    there is conductive paint, so to speak, but I dont know how close to each other you can get, without bleeding into the next trace.
    we used to use some really good stuff back in the day. we called it blue wire, cause it had a teflon coat that was blue.
    a drag to strip, but tough as nails.

    #6 8 years ago
    Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

    you dont want much, do you? lol.
    trace repair is indeed an art. you are already doin much of what is possible.
    there is conductive paint, so to speak, but I dont know how close to each other you can get, without bleeding into the next trace.
    we used to use some really good stuff back in the day. we called it blue wire, cause it had a teflon coat that was blue.
    a drag to strip, but tough as nails.

    I've tested out that silver & carbon filled epoxy and it was all crap. I think it is called "wire glue". Obviously the issue being that resistance is introduced.

    Yeah, I want something that doesn't exist I'm pretty sure. I want the remaining boards on my shelf I don't have time to fix to fix themselves I think.

    #7 8 years ago
    Quoted from thedefog:

    I've tested out that silver & carbon filled epoxy and it was all crap. I think it is called "wire glue". Obviously the issue being that resistance is introduced.
    Yeah, I want something that doesn't exist I'm pretty sure. I want the remaining boards on my shelf I don't have time to fix to fix themselves I think.

    Oh my God those wire / glue pens are crap. I thought it was the coolest idea even being a bit flexible . . . If it was easy and worked great everyone would be doing it.

    #8 8 years ago

    whats wrong with a jumper wire on the back ? getting a non working board working is all that matters. dont over think it

    #9 8 years ago
    Quoted from pinnut:

    whats wrong with a jumper wire on the back ? getting a non working board working is all that matters. dont over think it

    True. Lately, I've just been trying to find cleaner methods of repair. Neatly taped down 32awg jumper wires are probably just fine for what I need to do.

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