(Topic ID: 206322)

Meteor restoration........


By Pinball_Nate

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 150 posts
  • 21 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Pinball_Nate
  • Topic is favorited by 18 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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There are 150 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 1 year ago

Working on the coin door, plan to scuff it up and re-paint with hammered metallic-grey finish. The coin accepts look like they have hardly been used. Another hack on this game is the interior wiring.............a tab from a coil was broken off and soldered into the mix?? Can anyone hypothesize why this was done??

I remember someone else having trouble with the "ambient light" from the coin slot bulbs, so I plan to make cardboard sleeves to fit over the sockets to keep the light forwards.

I have a Stern sticker to put onto the front, and will print another start button sticker.

dr1 (resized).jpgdr2 (resized).jpgdr3 (resized).jpg
#102 1 year ago

Topside of pf pretty much complete.

I got these nifty led lamp boards from pinsider Coyote, to replace the infamously difficult lamp rows used by Stern, but they are not as easy to install as I assumed?! Coyote if you're roaming the hills maybe you can chime in?

I know the wires for each individual lamp are corresponding to the lamp numbers on the boards............BUT what are the "lamp bus" j1, j2, j3 areas connecting to??? I'm thinking this may be more complicated than I can handle........it looks like I am running something from the lamp board down to these areas?

Yes, I have new boards to handle the use of LED lighting.

Heeeelllllpppp!!

I think I'll start cleaning the inside of the cabinet in the meantime, that's a lot easier!!!!

brd1 (resized).jpgbrd2 (resized).jpg
#103 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

a tab from a coil was broken off and soldered into the mix?? Can anyone hypothesize why this was done??

That is the remnants of the coin door lockout coil. Sounds like your coil was removed in an unceremonious way.

#104 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

I remember someone else having trouble with the "ambient light" from the coin slot bulbs, so I plan to make cardboard sleeves to fit over the sockets to keep the light forwards.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That would be me. The ambient light from the coin door was bugging me so I designed some covers and made them in ABS. I'm on the third revision and am happy with the way these turned out. They keep the light shining through the coin door and fixed the issue. I would only use LED's in the coin door with these since a regular bulb would get too hot. You can see a picture of how they look installed. The light sockets hold the covers in place. I have extra sets available. Just send me a PM if you need a set.

Stern_Coin_Door_Light_Covers (resized).jpg
#105 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

I remember someone else having trouble with the "ambient light" from the coin slot bulbs, so I plan to make cardboard sleeves to fit over the sockets to keep the light forwards.

A pinsider sent me some black plastic tubes he made with a 3D printer. There is not much to them and they are pretty cool. You have to use them with LEDs due to the heat #44s throw off. Send me a PM if you would like his contact info.

Edit: Speak of the devil. Here they are

#107 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Topside of pf pretty much complete.
I got these nifty led lamp boards from pinsider Coyote, to replace the infamously difficult lamp rows used by Stern, but they are not as easy to install as I assumed?! Coyote if you're roaming the hills maybe you can chime in?
I know the wires for each individual lamp are corresponding to the lamp numbers on the boards............BUT what are the "lamp bus" j1, j2, j3 areas connecting to??? I'm thinking this may be more complicated than I can handle........it looks like I am running something from the lamp board down to these areas?
Yes, I have new boards to handle the use of LED lighting.
Heeeelllllpppp!!
I think I'll start cleaning the inside of the cabinet in the meantime, that's a lot easier!!!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

What are those red boards? What does the other side look like? They confuse me.

Why not consider getting a set of these lamp board replacements and switch to #555 bulbs. I have this pinsider's boards in my Big Game and my Nine Ball. They are fantastic.

if you now how to solder, they area piece of cake to install.

https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-meteor-set-of-lamp-boards-to-replace-the-old-metal-ones

https://pinballreplacementparts.com/collections/all?page=3

Screen Shot 2018-11-17 at 9.55.53 AM (resized).png

#108 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

I know the wires for each individual lamp are corresponding to the lamp numbers on the boards............BUT what are the "lamp bus" j1, j2, j3 areas connecting to??? I'm thinking this may be more complicated than I can handle........it looks like I am running something from the lamp board down to these areas?

Lamp bus would be the bare wire that connects to the metal frame of the original parts.

It looks like the boards allow you to solder the wires directly to the board, or install connectors so it's easily removable. You would need to have the headers, housings, and pins to do that though.

In the first pic for example, you would put that top group of three wires into a 3 pin connector, and plug it in to pins at J1.

#109 1 year ago

LED’s do not fade/out as incandescent bulbs do. Ruins the effect.
In a home game, heat is not really an issue. You don’t leave them on 12+ hours a day like on route.
But to each thier own.

#110 1 year ago

Caffeine Slug, I see, so you can either attach the wires as singles to the corresponding holes, or group them together with a connector that holds a few at a time.......thanks so much for that info! I need to get pins and housings for some other connectors so will order these as well.

Dasvis - what effect are you referencing? I don't think the rocket ladder bulbs have a fade effect to them, do the spinner shot lights do that???? I can't recall.

cottonm4 - the other side of the boards have LED's mounted directly to them. I didn't know that those other boards exitsted.........I'll figure this out - hope that explanation helps? In other words, you take the light brackets completely out and replace the whole thing with these boards.

Thanks every one for their input.

#111 1 year ago

cottonm4, thanks for the link, did not know these existed.

#112 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

In other words, you take the light brackets completely out and replace the whole thing with these boards.

Yes. The green 555 boards replace what Stern produced.

I don't know where you are at on your wiring know-how, so at the risk of insulting you, here you go.

Your GI lights derive power from one red wire and one white wire that are located on connector J-1 at the rectifier board. In Stern blueprint terms, the rectifier board is referred to as A2, also shown here as Transformer. All three A2 connectors, J-1, J-2, and J-3 are shown here.

Screen Shot 2018-11-18 at 10.18.24 AM (resized).png

Your red and white GI wires are shown below in this pic.

Screen Shot 2018-11-18 at 10.17.50 AM (resized).png

In this pic, only connectors J-1 and J-3 are shown. This is the transformer drawing. Compare J-1 in this pic to J-1 in the first pic. They are the same but drawn differently with the transformer drawing having more detail, such as wire color.

The J-1 connector is your play field wire connector. It has 4 wires (go take a look on your pin).
a) wire #1 is your red GI return wire. In blueprint terms (b/p) this wire has the address of A2-J1-1
b) wire #8 is your white GI wire. Address A2-J1-8
c) wire #6 is your blue-white wire that that powers your flippers. You will pick this wire up at the under-play-field 1 amp fuse holder. Address A2-J1-6
d) wire #7 is your blue feature light wire. Address A2-J1-7. This blue wire feeds all of your feature lights. On those green 555 boards I linked you will see a connector labeled as "common". This blue wire is your common wire.

The J3 connector: This is your back-box wire connector.

e) You will see that A2-J1-7 blue (common) splices to pin #6 on J-3, or A2-J3-6. This spliced wire feeds all of your feature lights in the back box.

Screen Shot 2018-11-18 at 10.17.26 AM (resized).png

This last pic is of your lamp driver board (In blue b/p terms, the lamp board is referenced as A5 which is not pictured). This shows you the address of each feature light. This is a crappy hard to read copy, but it tells you that your Game Over light is a grey wire with white stripe. Address is A5-J2-11.
And your Middle Rocket 1K light is a white wire with Address A5-J3-11.

Screen Shot 2018-11-18 at 10.20.24 AM (resized).png

With this information, you should be able to install the green 555 boards with little problem. Just think in terms of feature lights on the A5 lamp board and the common blue wire on A2-J1-1

Good luck on which direction you take. Happy b/p studying.

#114 1 year ago

Fading on a classic Stern? Nope.

#115 1 year ago

cottonm4: No, you're right on target, I'm a newbie with schematics and wiring, so you're small tutorial was much appreciated!

I AM getting better at reading these things.

Thanks guys.

#116 1 year ago

Whoa, those lamp boards are great, didn't know you could get them!

#117 1 year ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Whoa, those lamp boards are great, didn't know you could get them!

Amazing what is out there, hard to keep up with all the choices!

#118 1 year ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Whoa, those lamp boards are great, didn't know you could get them!

Mine aren't yet really available. Finishing up two, and then going to get quotes for a whole set.

1 week later
#119 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Mine aren't yet really available. Finishing up two, and then going to get quotes for a whole set.

Well, it would be a fantastic favor to the restorers if you get to where you can efficiently make boards for various titles. Those old metal brackets are a PITA to try and get working if they crap out, and the game i'm working on currently just has a huge mess of bulbs all connected by grounding braid! Godspeed, I say.

#120 1 year ago

Coin door completed today and re-installed. I have made Stern sticker for the door but will put that on later.

I also took all the wiring from the transformer, which had been wired with wire-nuts for some reason and attched all the wires with solder and heat-shrink tubing.

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1 week later
#121 1 year ago

Got the light boards installed today, painted the inside of the cab black where it is exposed above the playfield, replaced the switches at the flipper buttons. Used some I already had (brand new) and just opened the contacts - they were originally closed, but Stern uses open switches-to-close on their flippers, etc.

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#122 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

replaced the switches at the flipper buttons.

I am not the pinball design engineer and I suppose they will work OK, but those switches you installed at your flipper buttons are not flipper switches. I am going by my pins. All of mine have switch blades that are 3 inches long and the contact point is directly behind the flipper button.

Your contact point looks like it is sitting below the flipper button and, IMO, this will cause a mini, minor, very small time delay from when you press the flipper button as the blade flexes before making contact.

Picky? Yeah, probably. Petty? Yeah, probably. I just thought I would point this out.

#123 1 year ago

Yeah what the heck are those switches?

#124 1 year ago

I’m not an LED guy by any means, but those light boards are slick.

#125 1 year ago

.

#126 1 year ago

cottonm4 and TheLaw:

Ok, no, that's a good catch. I just assumed that these were usable since they had the same exact contact points, but you are absolutely right, now that you mention it - there might be a delay from button to blade.

Thanks for the heads up. Other than the placement of the contacts relative to the blades I would suspect that these would work??

#127 1 year ago
Quoted from dasvis:

those light boards are slick

Yeah, thanks to Pinsider Coyote! I won't ever have to mess with those light socked boards again!!! The LED's are nice and bright beneath their corresponding window.

#128 1 year ago

Product ID: sw-10a-48
Williams/Bally Flipper Leaf Switch - Single Contact

Is this a valid replacement for the flipper switch??

Those switches I used were Stern/DataEast EOS switches...........

It looks like the cabinet button contact on these is also well-above the blades' contact points??

switch (resized).jpg
#129 1 year ago

Looks like what i just used in Laser Ball.

20181126_182929 (resized).jpg
#130 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Product ID: sw-10a-48
Williams/Bally Flipper Leaf Switch - Single Contact
Is this a valid replacement for the flipper switch??
Those switches I used were Stern/DataEast EOS switches...........
It looks like the cabinet button contact on these is also well-above the blades' contact points??[quoted image]

That PBLife unit will probably be OK.

https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=flipper%20switch

But I prefer the GTB-B17838+ from PBR.

2nd from the top.

http://www.pbresource.com/buttswit.html

EDIT: Due to the pricy nature of some of these switches, I bought some replacement contact points from PBR. So, next time I will replace a 10 cent contact instead of buying the whole rig.

#131 1 year ago

Thanks for the info. Good idea about the extra contact blades! These are not cheap............

#132 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Yeah, thanks to Pinsider Coyote! I won't ever have to mess with those light socked boards again!!! The LED's are nice and bright beneath their corresponding window.

What happens if one of those LEDs burn out? Anyway to replace?

#133 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

What happens if one of those LEDs burn out? Anyway to replace?

Yep, same as replacing a burnt logic chip or dead battery... with a soldering iron.

That said, I've never had to replace a good quality LED in any of my games yet- aside from a lousy batch of the discount Comets, I've had reasonably good luck.

coyote - Can you share your specs on the SMD LED's you're using? Lumens, colour temperature, fwd voltage drop, etc?

If I took a guess at a typical SMD LED chip, it looks like they aren't expensive if there ever was a problem (note to future googlers: this is not a replacement, I'm just linking to a part) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/QBLP676-IW-NW/1516-1122-2-ND

#134 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

What happens if one of those LEDs burn out? Anyway to replace?

Hopefully that will never happen - the little I actually PLAY my machines, it shouldn't!

#135 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Hopefully that will never happen - the little I actually PLAY my machines, it shouldn't!

LEDs are supposed to last a lifetime. But I have seen new cars on the road with half a line of LEDs in a brake light not working. That's why I asked.

#136 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

LEDs are supposed to last a lifetime. But I have seen new cars on the road with half a line of LEDs in a brake light not working. That's why I asked.

Understood.

#137 1 year ago

Installed new rectifier board and cabinet speaker, also repinned the connectors going to the rectifier board. One of the connectors disintegrated where it was burned crispy, so I've got to locate another plug. Making slow progress but enjoying seeing this old, neglected machine given a new lease on life!!

a1 (resized).jpga2 (resized).jpg

#138 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

What are those red boards? What does the other side look like? They confuse me.
Why not consider getting a set of these lamp board replacements and switch to #555 bulbs. I have this pinsider's boards in my Big Game and my Nine Ball. They are fantastic.
if you now how to solder, they area piece of cake to install.
https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-meteor-set-of-lamp-boards-to-replace-the-old-metal-ones
https://pinballreplacementparts.com/collections/all?page=3
[quoted image]

super awesome, this is the reason I come to pinside. does anyone else make lamp board for old games like this?
Kind of sucks since I replaced all the light sockets already, but this kind is sooo much easier to deal with.

Started replacing lamp sockets after my first game, Realized they the old ones are pretty corroded at this phase in their life.

#139 1 year ago

I know this has been asked before, but I've seen five different answers:

What is the audio volume pot? Resistance? Power dissipation? Log/Linear taper?

#140 1 year ago
Quoted from semicolin:

I know this has been asked before, but I've seen five different answers:
What is the audio volume pot? Resistance? Power dissipation? Log/Linear taper?

Anyone know the answer???

#141 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Anyone know the answer???

If nobody says anything then I'm going to have to take one out and burn it to crisp to find the answer. I don't want to do this...

#142 1 year ago
Quoted from semicolin:

If nobody says anything then I'm going to have to take one out and burn it to crisp to find the answer. I don't want to do this...

Just a guess, but 10k is probably good enough. I put a 5k in my sorcerer, and was going to swap it with a 10k to be able to have a finer adjustment.
It's just a variable resistor, that ranges from X to 5k or X to 10k.
someone correct me if I'm wrong.

#143 1 year ago

Volume pots are generally log taper I know that. Sometimes log taper pots are listed as "audio". For some reason 100k is sticking out in my mind but I'm not as confident about that part.

#144 1 year ago
Quoted from semicolin:

What is the audio volume pot? Resistance? Power dissipation? Log/Linear taper?

The volume control in Dracula is a 25k ohm pot. Since the sound boards in Dracula and Meteor use the same volume attenuation chip (MC3340), Meteor very likely uses the same pot. There's no audio running through the pot so just use a standard 0.5W unit.

Stern_VolumeControl.jpg

#145 1 year ago

Ooh, good catch. Alright, least expensive option from Digikey is this one: https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/tt-electronics-bi/P160KNP-0EC15A25K/987-1721-ND/5957465

25k, audio taper.

#146 1 year ago

Working on back box, painted the white in, while painting I was treated to years of cigarette smoke smell awakened by the fresh coat of paint. Put in LED's and tested, everything working ok.
Need to re-pin connectors on score displays next.

bb1 (resized).jpgDSC_8886 (resized).JPG
#147 1 year ago

It's beginning to look like a pinball! Got the back box mounted and the new boards installed. Replaced two score displays with used Bally displays purchased from a Pinsider.

Checked the solder joints on the five score displays, ran some new solder where it looked needed.

Painted the shooter gauge, it doesn't look as "rough" as this close-up photo would lead you to believe.

Just got new Molex plugs to replace some crispy ones, working on re-pinning the 20pin plug now.

pinb (resized).jpgshooter (resized).jpg
1 week later
#148 1 year ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Yep, same as replacing a burnt logic chip or dead battery... with a soldering iron.
That said, I've never had to replace a good quality LED in any of my games yet- aside from a lousy batch of the discount Comets, I've had reasonably good luck.
coyote - Can you share your specs on the SMD LED's you're using? Lumens, colour temperature, fwd voltage drop, etc?
If I took a guess at a typical SMD LED chip, it looks like they aren't expensive if there ever was a problem (note to future googlers: this is not a replacement, I'm just linking to a part) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/QBLP676-IW-NW/1516-1122-2-ND

Hey -
Sorry for the delay in replying. Had family issues that took me out the last few months.

These LEDs are Brighttek LEDs, part number: QBLP679E-IWK-WW (except for on the Bonus Count board, the 5k series are cool white!) Datasheet is here: http://www.qt-brightek.com/datasheet/QBLP679E-IWK-XX.pdf

The Chinese PCB manufacturers constantly try to get me to allow a 'cheaper option', which I don't allow. A lot of time was put into the current.lumens of these LEDs to look good when mounted down under the playfield.

#149 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Hey -
Sorry for the delay in replying. Had family issues that took me out the last few months.
These LEDs are Brighttek LEDs, part number: QBLP679E-IWK-WW (except for on the Bonus Count board, the 5k series are cool white!) Datasheet is here: http://www.qt-brightek.com/datasheet/QBLP679E-IWK-XX.pdf
The Chinese PCB manufacturers constantly try to get me to allow a 'cheaper option', which I don't allow. A lot of time was put into the current.lumens of these LEDs to look good when mounted down under the playfield.

Thanks! Good to know that it's an easy replacement should anything ever go wrong: https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/qt-brightek-qtb/QBLP679E-IWK-WW/1516-1130-1-ND/4814857

#150 1 year ago

Ok, installed my new boards and am waiting for some clarification on the wiring from the line-in or power plug - I need to replace it and I'm not sure it's wired correctly inside the cab.

Patched the cabinet on the left side where the wood was peeled off, hand-painted the graphics back on - not perfect but good enough. I'm not one to worry too much over cabinet appearance as long as it is sturdy - paint matches better than the "fixed" photo appears.

I also replaced the flipper switches I used with "proper" cabinet switches, these have a noticeably larger contact area than the ones I put on there first time around.

5Cab (resized).jpgcabside (resized).jpg
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