Meteor
Stern Electronics, 1979Quoted from g94:Here's my recipe. Very efficient and without any risk
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-time-fantasy-screaming-for-attention/page/4#post-4375239
Great work on that Time Fantasy!!
I have a time fantasy of my own - that I have enough time to finish Meteor!!! Hhahaha
Great thread - and perfect timing. I am picking up a Meteor in central Georgia that seems to be in pretty good shape but once I get a close look I know it will need some fix ups. It's going to be a flip for me, probably. Do you all think the current asking prices on ebay (ranging from $1800-2800) are realistic at all?
Keep us updated Nate. Thx
DocFinlay : Will do, hoping to get underway soon - ebay prices are not "realistic" in general! Sterns won't fetch a lot of money, but like anything else, if someone really wants a nice re-conditioned pin without doing the work themselves, you will probably sell it for 1,200 or so - I will have spent upwards of that on mine just fixing it up - but it's more of a hobby for me and I'm not really thinking about what it's worth other than to me personally, once I reap the enjoyment of playing it.
As you can see, when applying the mylar from the topside down, for some reason, the large circular hole was too much of a "blank area" to attempt to cover. In hind-site, I should have had a piece of cardboard fit into the hole, flush with the playfield to avoid any buckling of the mylar.
Soooo, I ended up with bubbling under the mylar where it wasn't exactly applied straight and taught enough. I was forced to cut the mylar above and below the pop bumper ring to remove the air pockets. Thankfully, the pop-bumper skirt will cover a lot of this damage and it won't affect gameplay.
I'm now replacing mechanisms to the underside of playfield, dealing with the maze of labeled wires telling me what goes where!
Labeledparts (resized).jpgOne question - when I replaced the slingshots, I noticed that the armature is actually touching the baseplate underneath - a metal-on-metal contact (circles in yellow) that wore a small groove into the mounting hardware. Is this typical of Stern???
Is there anyway of stopping the armature just short of banging into the underside of the table? Can I put a piece of firm rubber there to lessen the impact?
Thanks for any suggestions..............
Rebound1 (resized).jpgrebound2 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pinball_Nate:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-club-we-will-let-you-know-when-the-danger-is-past/page/20#post-4622130
Posted the above in club thread with no reply - anyone able to verify wiring? Thanks.
Here is the lower right flipper wiring. With you looking at the coil from the plunger side (call it the solder lug side), the B-W wire from J-1 on the rectifier board attaches to the left solder lug. The orange wire from your SDB attaches to the right hand solder lug. There are two orange jumper wires leading from each solder lug to the switch stack. The center lug also has a jumper wire that goes to the switch stack; Across from this orange wire is the BRN-W wire that travels to the front flipper coil.
Here is the upper flipper coil. The absolute first item you need to recognize in this pic is that this coil is installed opposite the rear coil. Now, you are looking at the coil from the coil stop end instead of the plunger end, but you are still looking at it from the lug side. It means nothing other than someone replaced a coil and did not pay attention to direction. We are still looking at the coil from the same direction; The difference is the coils are reversed.
On your left lug you see the B-W wire from J-1 on the rectifier board. There is also a jump wire from this same lug that goes to the switch stack. On the right hand lug is the same BRN-W wire that you have on the lower coil switch stack. And the center lug has an orange wire that travels to the switch stack.
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:when I replaced the slingshots, I noticed that the armature is actually touching the baseplate underneath - a metal-on-metal contact (circles in yellow) that wore a small groove into the mounting hardware. Is this typical of Stern???
Typical of a lot of mechs.
The arm has to stop somewhere.
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:Is there anyway of stopping the armature just short of banging into the underside of the table? Can I put a piece of firm rubber there to lessen the impact?
You could, but you'd lose that great sound.
You could put a rubber bumper from a flipper mech into the wood next to it if it bothers you. They last a long time before wearing out
23-6577 (resized).jpgcottonm4 and vid - Thanks so much for your help.
I will use the flipper photos to make sure I've got these hooked-up correctly. I knew the upper flipper was missing something................
Best,
Nate
Back further in your posts your were asking about slingshots. I have borrowed your pics.
The kicker on the left is classic Stern used in some sort of ball launcher. I cannot remember which pin, though. The one on the right is the classic Stern slingshot kicker. I have learned recently that the washer is a blueprint item. I think it is supposed to keep the spring going cockeyed on the plunger link.
f6da293ba007f2b6c7d77674f83061bfc9c50f19 (resized).jpg
You have replaced those Stern units with the Bally/Williams/ Data East style of kicker. I think you may have used your original Stern pivot mounts. Although, it is hard to see for sure in the pic.
2290eefe28e951564239943d5a5f3cf9d50a1b48 (resized).jpg
If you have not already done so, you might want to upgrade your pivot brackets with these from Pinball Life. I have used these to replace some worn out units on my Sterns and they work fine. But the geometry is a little different and you must relocated one attaching screw (no exceptions).
f6da293ba007f2b6c7d77674f83061bfc9c50f19 (resized).jpg
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-slingshot-kicker-mounting-bracket.html
Screen Shot 2018-10-08 at 11.37.19 AM (resized).pngcootonm4 - thanks for some more information.
Yes, I did replace the kicker arms and kept the original kicker mounts - it seems to work fine, the mounts are not in that bad of shape although I did notice one of the arms that extends through the playfield looks like it is a little "skewed" to one side - could that be the reason??
Oh, I also straightened out the "skinny coil" issue - it was the wrong coil and I got a corrected replacement.......
Question about the spinner - is it viable to clear-coat the spinner? I'm worried that the added weight of the clear may affect the "spinnability" since it is almost inevitable that one side may have more clear (weight) than the other causing a balance issue.............................does anyone mylar the sinner surface - or does that cause the same problem???
My spinner is in good shape, and I scanned the graphics for future replacement - it looks like really the very bottom of the spinner is most affected and showing paint loss.
I typically clear and apply mylar, I also place a small amount of 3 and 1 silicone oil on the spinner ears and use the Ron Popeil ideology of "set it and forget it."
There is a thread on here somewhere discussing the best oil for spinners if you are that interested.
Atari_Daze - good to know - I think I'll clear only. I have some silicone I can use.
I can't help but think mylar would weigh it down a bit???
I think the additional mass of the mylar is negligible in relation to the overall mass of the spinner.
Curious what others think my self.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:I think the additional mass of the mylar is negligible in relation to the overall mass of the spinner.
Curious what others think my self.
Well, if there's not a thread, you could always start one - I'd be surprised if this wasn't talked about before on Pinside.
Those older spinners take quite a beating after 30+ years!!! Mine is in remarkably good shape with only the orange paint missing from the bottom(s) - I was considering trying to "jazz up" it's appearance with some glitter paint over the meteor graphics, but those graphics are SMALL........
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:Atari_Daze - good to know - I think I'll clear only. I have some silicone I can use.
I can't help but think mylar would weigh it down a bit???
All you need is a small strip of mylar to cover the ball contact point. But you also need to place another strip on the opposite side to maintain balance.
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:Well, if there's not a thread, you could always start one - I'd be surprised if this wasn't talked about before on Pinside.
Yep, all things have been talked about on here before. 
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-lube-for-spinners
30+ posts in just this one thread and almost as many suggestions for lube.
so IMHO, YMMV LOL 
Then there is this:
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from cottonm4:All you need is a small strip of mylar to cover the ball contact point. But you also need to place another strip on the opposite side to maintain balance.
Was considering that - thanks, that's the easiest - glad you're on my page!!
I hope to have more photos, at the moment I'm (slowly) rebuilding the pf - waiting until after York show since I'll be purchasing bulbs there from cointaker........
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Yep, all things have been talked about on here before.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-lube-for-spinners
30+ posts in just this one thread and almost as many suggestions for lube.
so IMHO, YMMV LOL
Then there is this:[quoted image]
Excellent! I'll check it out!
-Nate
If I was really OCD, I'd buy each of the lubes and compare / contrast them all, but nah, I'm not that bad!
I tried the one I mentioned as it was readily available at my local big box store, I had good results and just use it.
A little bit of info on your new slingshot kickers:
My Seawitch was a heavily worn routed pin. The were no sling shot half-moon protectors on the play field. You can see the the large wear point at the right sling. The left side is as pristine as a routed pin can be. Why did the left survive while the right hand took a beating?
I cannot prove what what I am thinking but you can draw your own conclusion. My left sling kicker was the original Stern kicker. The right kicker had been replaced. That kicker was just like the ones you have newly installed on your Meteor. I can't prove it, but my suspicion the the small "hook" on the white nylon kicker foot kept driving the ball into that same worn area over and over and over.
It is your Meteor and I'm not telling you what to do, but if it was me, I would be trimming those hooks off of your kicker feet or lay down some mylar protectors (and I hate those things).
cottonm4:
Thanks for the recommendation - don't hit me, but I already mylared the entire playfield (I like to play, mylar if waxed doesn't bother me.......).
That's an interesting idea and one that I wouldn't discount. Once I have juice to this machine I'm going to see how the ball is "thumped" back onto the pf - it wouldn't be difficult to shave off the ends.............
Have you totally restored your SeaWitch??
Atari: Hey, that wouldn't be unheard of on this forum!!! But I'm with you, as long as it's slippery I'm happy!!! 
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:cottonm4:
Thanks for the recommendation - don't hit me, but I already mylared the entire playfield (I like to play, mylar if waxed doesn't bother me.......).
That's an interesting idea and one that I wouldn't discount. Once I have juice to this machine I'm going to see how the ball is "thumped" back onto the pf - it wouldn't be difficult to shave off the ends.............
Have you totally restored your SeaWitch??
It is your pin. I have a Robocop with factory mylar. It plays great. But I will always elect to make a polycarbonate protector before I laid down mylar. BTW: I need to complement you on your play field touch up work. You did a nice job.
No, still playing the hell out of Seawitch as I wait for a John Greatwich repro play field. Witch is in line behind Stargazer and Quicksilver.
Quoted from cottonm4:BTW: I need to complement you on your play field touch up work. You did a nice job.
Thanks! I come from a family of artists so I enjoy that part of the process the most........... I am very interested in the making overlays discussions. I'd like to try that out sometime on a future project.
Where does one buy the polycarbonate?
Have you posted a thread about your making these??
Best,
Nate
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:Thanks! I come from a family of artists so I enjoy that part of the process the most........... I am very interested in the making overlays discussions. I'd like to try that out sometime on a future project.
Where does one buy the polycarbonate?
Have you posted a thread about your making these??
Best,
Nate
Here is a thread that may answer some questions for you
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-made-a-playfield-protector-self-evaulation#post-4627717
Quoted from cottonm4:Here is a thread that may answer some questions for you
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-made-a-playfield-protector-self-evaulation#post-4627717
Thanks, I actually just ran across that thread, I'm definitely going to try this out!!
-N
Quoted from DocFinlay:Also working on a Meteor, thought you might like to use my "custom" spinner graphics. One is off center of the other so when it spins the meteor is "moving"[quoted image][quoted image]
Wow - great job!!
Thanks for sharing, I've been thinking about jazzing up the spinner...............
Slowly, so slowly getting the playfield re-populated. Discovered I didn't order enough short posts so just placed an order for the additional ones. I also discovered after having some of the screws push through ever-so-slightly into the backside of the pf, that there are actually two sizes of screw, but only about 3/8 of an inch in difference!!! The shorter ones (of course) are used on the short posts, so after putting four shorts in with the longer screws I had do re-do that.
There are almost NO short screws from when I took apart the pf, instead they used washers to make the longer screws "shorter" or used very long screws inserted from the back of the pf??!!
I'm going to the hardware store tomorrow night to find the shorter length screws. Here's some photos. I really like the blue posts in place of the red - I'm also thinking about painting those white plastic caps black as they really stand-out and don't match any of the pf colors.
pf1 (resized).jpgpf2 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pinball_Nate:I'm also thinking about painting those white plastic caps black as they really stand-out and don't match any of the pf colors.
Nate, have you seen these anodized locknuts? You can choose any colour you want to replace those white acorn nuts and really make things pop in your game. I think the purple would absolutely crush it in Meteor: https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/6-32-teal-anodized-lock-nut
Get some Rit brand dye in any color you want. Put some, not all, of the dye in a pan on the stove. Pour in your white nylon nuts, turn on the heat and start stirring. When the water starts boiling you will have some color on.
Quoted from semicolin:anodized locknuts
semicolon: Thanks for the heads up, those are a great idea! I'm not sure they would fit on the type of post in there, the post top is kinda "skinny" it's one of those screw in with extended/threaded top post - I'll consider but may just go with the dyeing suggestion.
Thanks!
cottonm4, that's a great idea! I was thinking about just spray-painting them, but this might be less messy. I see they have purple too, hmmm......have you done this? How dark does the nylon get??
Thanks both of you for the suggestions - glad you reading my (slow, I know) thread!
-Nate
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:semicolon: Thanks for the heads up, those are a great idea! I'm not sure they would fit on the type of post in there, the post top is kinda "skinny" it's one of those screw in with extended/threaded top post - I'll consider but may just go with the dyeing suggestion.
Thanks!
cottonm4, that's a great idea! I was thinking about just spray-painting them, but this might be less messy. I see they have purple too, hmmm......have you done this? How dark does the nylon get??
Thanks both of you for the suggestions - glad you reading my (slow, I know) thread!
-Nate
Yes. I have made some green ones. At first, I did not think the color was going to take. But then a light shade of green started to appear. As I kept stirring, the color got darker. I almost left my project in the water for too long. They are dark dark green. It took me about 20 minutes to do this. It is not a dirty job so your wife will not get mad that you are using the stove 
Your posts look like the standard #6 size with 32 threads per inch, or 6-32. Those anodized nuts look good and come in 6-32 or 8-32. You ca use those but at 75 cents each they are too pricy for me.
Quoted from cottonm4:Get some Rit brand dye in any color you want.
I second that, I dye nylon in almost all the machines I restore.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polishing-up-a-silverball-mania#post-3795182
It looks like Titan makes different colored post caps. I am going to try some on an Elektra and may end up using them on Meteor too:
https://www.titanpinball.com/image/cache/catalog/Silicone%20Rings/Post%20Caps-800x800.jpg
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=52
Hey coyote, some of us are piss-poor and lucky enough to afford clunkers to restore to their former glory!!!
New playfield? New playfield.........yep would be wwwoonnnderful!!! 
Glad to stir up the thread again, I'm going tonight to try some dye.
I agree, .75 a pop is a little pricey, I've already made this project an expensive one as it is!!!
Think I'll try purple, I assume the longer it stays in the soup, the darker they get?
Thanks all!
Quoted from Atari_Daze:I second that, I dye nylon in almost all the machines I restore
Wow! That came out great! Please don't expect my complete resotration to look that good!!!
BTW, is that a fun game? I love the graphics on it!!! Especially the guy humping the machine!!!
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:BTW, is that a fun game?
I enjoyed it when I had it. It was super fast after the restore. I played it so long before I restored it, when done it was it was a totally different game.
I had it and Bally Atlantis at the same time, I could play a game on SBM in just a minute or two and then Atlantis might take 5. They were a good contrast to each other.
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:Hey coyote, some of us are piss-poor and lucky enough to afford clunkers to restore to their former glory!!!
New playfield? New playfield.........yep would be wwwoonnnderful!!!
While I got my Meteor really cheap, the PF is unsaveable, sadly. So I'm hoping.. keeping an eye out.
Be curious so see how you to the dye. Interested to see the results..!
Quoted from Coyote:Be curious so see how you to the dye
Sorry to hear about your pf......
Yep, I will show the results (that is, if I don't f**k it up!!!)
Well, Pinball life has nice, new acorn nuts in purple, so I went ahead and ordered them for Meteor - I needed a few odds n ends so threw those in.
Figure it'll save me some labor, and at .40 each what the hell.............
-N
Quoted from sethbenjamin:So this thing is gonna be ready to play by Thanksgiving, right?
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Baltimore, MD
Sana'a
