Meteor Resets – With Rottendog Solenoid Driver Board

(Topic ID: 229354)

Meteor Resets – With Rottendog Solenoid Driver Board


By oldschoolbob

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 315 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 68 days ago by oldschoolbob
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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There are 315 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 7.
#301 70 days ago

Bob, to check the bridge, just unhook it and use a multi-meter, set on the diode setting (I think they all have that feature nowadays) and check that one way each diode measures ~0.7V, open the other way. Do this for each diode. Very straight forward.

Just guessing, but I wonder if you connected the current probe across the output instead of series? That would be the same as shorting the output. Just a WAG. Got a picture of how the current meter was connected?

Was the fuse a slo blo or fast?

Regarding the 35V and the LM350K. The spec sheet only mentions the in-to-output voltage delta, not the delta to ground, so it might be OK. If you want to lower the input voltage, a simple way to drop it some is to add some series diodes. You can always use a spare bridge for that.

#302 70 days ago

The bridge seems to be OK. I think I was just getting bad readings because I didn't have a good connection with my scope. Seems to me that if the rectifier was bad I wouldn't be getting the nice wave that I'm getting now. I'm guessing that the 4700 uF cap is causing the voltage to go up to 36 volts. I been thinking all day about how to get the voltage down to 24 volts for the converter. Probably about the time you were typing your post I was reading about voltage dividers. From what I learned I'll need two resistors that are double in size (50 ohms and 100 ohms). I'll check what I have on hand. Do I want a high value or low value? (5K and 10K)?
I also thought about adding a second rectifier for the converter. And I have a shed load of rectifiers coming. Not sure which way to go but the two resistors seems easier.

I didn't take a photo of how I had it wired but this is the diagram I was using. However, it wouldn't be the first time I connected something wrong. If I connected the "in - black" wire to the power instead of load, would that cause the short?

The fuse was a fast blow.

Thanks

Bob

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#303 70 days ago

How much current does the meter draw (just measure it with a meter). You might be able to just use a series resistor. A resistor and zener would be better.

I'm not familiar with that current meter, but shouldn't it be on the low side of the supply (like below), not the high side? Make sure you check the manual before hooking up the way I drew that...it's just a guess.
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#304 70 days ago

Most the current meters I've seen monitor current on the low side. Got a model number of the meter?

#305 70 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

How much current does the meter draw (just measure it with a meter). You might be able to just use a series resistor.

I'll have to check it tomorrow - I'm not in the shop at this time. Would checking the ohms be better?

Quoted from mbwalker:

A resistor and zener would be better.

Now you're getting complicated. I don't know how to do that.

Your revised diagram (above) is exactly how I wired the volt/amp meters on the other power supply. This really confused me when I wired this up. Manual? What manual? This didn't come with a manual. Here's a link to the meter I got:

ebay.com link » 0 56 Dc 0 10a Ammeter Led Panel Amp Meter Digital Gauge Display 4 30v

The link above shows two diagrams - one with external power source and one without. The two diagrams differ in the way the "+ & -" are wired. One shows "+" to load and the other shows "-" to load. I think you just found the short.

Thanks

Bob

#306 70 days ago

These little meters are great if you ever get then figured out.

I had a little time so I went down to the shop to do some testing. First I checked for ohms then checked for continuity. Look at the zoomed in photos to see the wires:

Large black to white - 0 to 0.3 ohms - and it beeped.
Large black to small black - 0 to 0.2 ohms - and it beeped
Large black to red - open - no beep
White to small black - 0 to 0.3 ohms - and it beeped.
White to red - open - and no beep.

I'm just not sure how this is supposed to be wired.

I'd really appreciate it if someone could shed some light on this.

Thanks

Bob

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#307 69 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

How much current does the meter draw

The specs show less than 8mA.

I checked the specs on the 24V to 12V converter and it says 15 to 40 volts input range. At 36 volts I shouldn't need a voltage divider.

I think you're right that the screw up was that I connected the meter wrong. I think the current monitor should be on the negative side not the positive as shown in their diagram.

Thanks

Bob

#308 69 days ago

Can't sleep so I revised Marks diagram. I'm sure this is the way it should be wired. It don't seem right that the small black wire on the external power supply would connect to the negative and the large black wire that is connected to the positive.

I'll try this tomorrow.

Gotta go to bed now.

Thanks

Bob

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#309 69 days ago

Found this, for what it's worth.

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That diagram show the large White and Black reversed from what I had (that wouldn't have damaged anything)

The small red and black goes to your converter.

Converter: If you want to be safe, stick a 500 ohm resistor in series on the + input side of the converter. 8mA x 500 ohms = 4V. That's how much the input will be lowered to the converter input. No shunt resistor. If the converter draws more, it will just drop more voltage. Just give it a try and see how it works, won't hurt anything. Quick and dirty.

#310 69 days ago

Bob, While I'm at, see the big copper wire below? They essential use that as a VERY LOW value of resistor, likely in the 0.0x ohm range. They just measure the voltage drop across it. Then they calculate current (I=V/R) based on the voltage and ohms that they know.
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#311 69 days ago

I connected the meter power (small black and small red) as shown in my post 308. And the meters lit. Then I connected the current wires (large black and large white) as you showed in post 309. Nothing blew. Then I connected a car bulb as a load and it works great.

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Looks like the problem was the diagram I was using the other day was not correct. I'm not very good with electronics but I sure as heck don't need a diagram from the supplier that causes a short. Thanks for finding what was causing the problem.

I didn't use the resistor on the converter (didn't see it until I had it connected). It seems to be working fine without it.

It's interesting how they read the current. Like I said these are neat little meters once you figure out how to wire them correctly.

Now I just need to wire it all up and get everything installed.

Thanks for all the help.

#312 69 days ago

!!

I forgot to mention your 'lack of manual' comment. LOL, yeah - didn't think about that. Should have said 'paper with cryptic Chinesenglish words'

#313 69 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Should have said 'paper with cryptic Chinesenglish words'

I didn't even get that.

Manual? We don't need no stinking manual!!!

#314 69 days ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

I didn't even get that...

Chinesenglish...a common joke for words that are a poor translation from Chinese to English. Not really a thing, but it makes more sense than their ability to write correctly in English.

#315 68 days ago
Quoted from oldschoolbob:

I didn't even get that.

What I meant was I didn't even receive a piece of paper (English or Chinese) with any instructions. All I got was a meter - nothing else.

I got the power supply all wired up tonight. It works great. And it really looks nice with my Pinside power supply. Almost makes my workbench look like a professional electronics lab. (well maybe not.)

This has been a great few weeks and I've learned a lot. Again, thank you all - I couldn't have done it without all your help.

Bob

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