(Topic ID: 187545)

Meteor Lost It's Mind- video attached

By pindude80

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 37 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by schudel5
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pindude80.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#1 6 years ago

So last night I was playing my Meteor. Everything was going well until in the middle of a ball it started counting bonus, but it wasn't counting bonus I had collected, it just kept going and going and going. I drained the ball and it didn't stop. I restarted the game, it didn't do it right away, but as soon as I launched the ball it started doing this, I noticed it kept firing the trough kicker while it was doing this. It finally stopped. I launched another ball, same thing, only this time it kept firing one or two of the coils for the Meteor targets at the top of the playfield. It eventually stopped. I launched another ball, started doing it again, but this time didn't fire any coils. I pulled the glass and knocked down all of the drop targets and hit all of the standup targets, but that didn't stop it.

Does anyone have any idea why it is doing this or what I need to look at first?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8LKsouTS1igYy16SmJkU1VzNEk

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Your rocket target coils aren't firing.
So it's counting *up*, thinking you're really good and knocking them all back down again.
Find out why your coils aren't firing.

ah ha, good call! Any ideas where to start looking to see why none of them are firing?

#6 6 years ago

Cool, I'll give the fuses a check and do some research to figure out how to run test mode; never done it before on an early Stern.

Yes the outhole kicker would fire sometimes, sometimes it wouldn't, same with one of more of the coils for the meteor stand up targets.

#11 6 years ago

Ok, I'll check the under PF fuse, but coils other than the flippers are working. I will also check the gap on the outhole switch.

I will report back what I find.

Thanks to everyone for all of the replies and info

#14 6 years ago

I spent some time on Meteor last night. The gap on the outhole switch is set correctly. I pulled the under playfield fuse out of the game and tested, it's good.

I started looking at other stuff. I figured out on the bank targets labeled with number one, when the last of the three is dropped, doesn't matter the order, it will start counting down the bonus and firing one of the coils for the bank of targets that are the Meteor letters- I think the second "E" coil. The same thing on the bank targets labeled with number two, only it will fire the outhhole kicker repeatedly and count bonus once the last of the three targets is knocked down.

I manually reset the banks and it will finish counting down bonus, say for about 7 seconds and won't do it again until the last of the three of each target bank is dropped and then it will start counting bonus like crazy again.

Does that give anyone ideas on what to look at or what might be the problem?

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

It's not counting bonus down, it's scoring the rocket value (per target down) and incrementing the rocket value. Since all three targets are down and can't be reset they score again and again. The game doesn't know they don't reset so it thinks all 3 were knocked down again. So you get rocket value x3 and three bonus increments. Doesn't take long to max out at 7.
See post #13 for the fix.
To confirm:
Dropping all #1 targets = outhole fires
Dropping all #2 targets = 2nd Meteor E target fires
Hit pop bumper = Right sling fires
Hit left sling = Bank #3 resets
Win a game (knocker) = Meteor bank resets

Ok, makes sense it's scoring the rocket value over and over since the targets are all down and not resetting.

Dropping all #1 targets = outhole fires YES
Dropping all #2 targets = 2nd Meteor E target fires I am pretty sure it's the second E, but would need to confirm
Hit pop bumper = Right sling fires Not sure, would need to check
Hit left sling = Bank #3 resets Not sure, would need to check
Win a game (knocker) = Meteor bank resets Not sure, didn't get this far.

Quoted from dothedoo:

Specifically, MPU J4 pin 1 is not connected all the way through to solenoid driver board J4 pin 3.

I'm not sure what you mean here and as referencing as being the fix, probably over my head
Am I looking to see if there is a bad connection or cold solder joint at J4 pin 1? Sorry for the rookie question here.

#20 6 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Open your back box.
There are three circuit boards looking straight at you.
**************
Part #1
The board at you upper left is the MPU. You have four connectors that plug into the MPU.
Each connection point on the MPU is labled in several ways.
1) It will tell you which connector you are looking at by using small white numbers and letters. J-4 is the lower left connector on the MPU.
2) It will tell you how many pins are on the connector. J-4 has 19 pins on the connector
3) It will tell you the direction of the pin numbers. On the MPU J-4, Pin #1 is at the top of the connector and pin #19 is at the bottom.
4) All of your connector plugs will have a pin hole that is not being used and a small key/plug is inserted into that empty hole. That small plug prevents you from removing the connector and then screwing up by installing it backwards. You will see a small mark on the the MPU board that tells you where the small key/plug is located. On the MPU J-4, the key is located at pin #14.
So he is telling you the first item you look for is MPU connector J-4 pin #1 is your start point.
The Meteor schematics do not tell you the color of the wire but it is a red wire with white bands painted on.
*********************
Part #2
1) The SDU, or Solenoid Driver Board, is located at the upper right side of the back box. Look at the labeling and it will tell you this.
2) On the SDU, the J-4 connector is located at the lower right hand side of the board. It is marked and labeled just like the MPU connectors.
3) While on the MPU the J-4 connector is located in the lower LEFT corner of the board, on the SDU the J-4 connector is located at the lower RIGHT hand side of the board.
4) the SDU J-4 connector is labeled for 12 pins. Pin #1 is at the top. The key plug is located at pin #2.
5) He is telling you that you need to locate SDU J-4 pin #3.
On SDU J 4, pin #1 location is an open hole. It is not used. Pin #2 is an open hole because this is where the key is located. The first pin that has any wiring is pin #3 and that wire is color Red with White bands.
He is telling you are having trouble with your connection along the red/white banded wire between MPU J 4, pin #1 and SDU J-4 pin #3.
If you CAREFULLY cut some tie wraps you will be able to follow the red/white wire all the way across the back box.

Wow, great detailed guide there!

I will try and check it out this weekend and get back to you guys.

Thanks to everyone that replied!

#22 6 years ago

Good point about testing from the back of the solder joint to the back of the solder joint on the other board to get the most accurate results. I have .156 trifurcons, molex housings, and the required crimpers. I'm not able to do the board work so I wonder if I should just go ahead and replace both connectors since you said they get brittle and break and then see if I still have the problem and if I do I can get the header pins replaced next. Good plan?

#24 6 years ago

No problem, I have .100 pins and housings also. Although it looks like the MPU connector might be 19 or more pins so I will probably have to order one of those, I know I don't have one that big.

#27 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

You usual don't need to replace the housings... Not much to 'go bad' with them vs the pins.

That's good, I didn't lay eyes on it yet. It sounds like these are already in molex-type housing then. I am used to when fixing Bally/Willliams games the connectors are insulation displacement connectors (IDC) and I have to convert all of the wires over because I don't trust or want to use another IDC connector.

Should I just replace the one wire in the connectors then I guess to see if the problem goes away?

#28 6 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

If you are talking about the headers you don't need to use one continuous piece header. If it's say, 20 pins, you can use two 10 pin headers. Just make sure they are straight in line with each other, once soldered in, or it makes it hard to get the connector housings inserted.

I was referring to the connector housing, but it sounds like they are already in a molex-style connector so I think I can just replace the one wire's terminal on each board and if that doesn't work I will see if my friend can replace the header pins on the boards.

#30 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Most of the earlier games still use regular molex connectors. Later in the 80s they switch to IDC but my Meteor, at least, had molex in it. You could replace just the one pin, but if that does fix the problem, I'd replace the rest of them.

good point!

#31 6 years ago

you guys are awesome! Last night I pulled the J4 MPU connector, replaced the female pin for position 1, plugged it back in and it was fixed! I took Zacaj's advice and replaced all of the female pins in connector J4, played for about a good hour and it played great!

While I was working on it I moved the upper flipper EOS to engage sooner in hopes that the standups would knock down a little easier as my friend suggested, it seemed to help a little bit, but not as much as I was hoping. Is there a trick to getting them to fall down easier and not just stay standing when they get a medium to hard hit from the ball?

#34 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

You may need to clean the mech. Do they fall down part way, or just stay completely up? Is it only the first few targets you hit? Do they fall down fine when the game drops them itself? All of mine fall down if you breathe on them

Yeah maybe I should clean it, but all of the targets fall cleanly and they fall all the way down. It's when they are hit hard that they don't want to fall.

#36 6 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Check the back plate of the mech. These early Stern mechs tend to oxidize.....bad. The oxidation acts like sandpaper and prevents the targets from falling. Try removing the oxidation and see if that helps. Also, the rod that goes through all the pivot arms oxidizes and can cause binding. Polishing this should be part of your cleaning process.

Cool, I'll check it out when I get a chance. I guess the whole unit comes out fairly easily?

Thanks for the advice!

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
From: $ 130.00
Boards
Troxel Repair
 
$ 12.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
 
$ 29.00
Boards
RoyGBev Pinball
 
$ 100.00
Gameroom - Decorations
The Flipper Room
 
$ 29.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
RoyGBev Pinball
 
From: $ 115.00
Playfield - Protection
Beehive Pinball Co.
 
$ 44.00
Boards
PinballReplacementParts
 
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 169.00
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet Parts
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 69.00
$ 12.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
From: $ 2.99
$ 29.00
Boards
RoyGBev Pinball
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Middletown, OH
$ 3.00
Cabinet Parts
20eyes
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider pindude80.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/meteor-lost-its-mind-video-attached?tu=pindude80 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.