A frikin 25 amp resetable fuse.

They put in higher fuses until they wouldn't blow. I'd get it out of there. Your circuit breaker on your wall is probably 15amp or 20amp. You could start a fire.

Get some help on the game. Local collector or tech. ChrisHibler does board work, you could have him go over your boards.

LTG : )

And the corrosion isn't corrosion, it's the cement resistor on the side crumbling apart; also not good.

EDIT: Well, in addition to some corrosion

yes replace the board

the plugs don't look too bad, but advisable to check, if not, replace the connector pins with trifurcons.

I’d sure measure the voltages as a starting point. But that board does look like it has seen better days. The three-quarter amp fuse is missing. That fuse protects the display high voltage.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

Now's a great time to practice your soldering skills. You can get a complete replacement board kit for $30 and it will improve your situation dramatically: https://nvram.weebly.com/bally---stern-rectifier.html

Well you will have to do some soldering to attach the wired from the transformer to the new board.
They are not plug and play but this type of soldering isn't as hard as trying to build the kit board from scratch.

You can do it if you practice a bit with soldering. Transfer one wire at a time so you don't mix any up...

Weller 40 watt
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-40-Watt-LED-Soldering-Iron-Kit-SP40NKUS/204195330?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=Shopping-B-F_Brand-G-Multi-NA-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Catchall_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_Brand-G-Multi-NA-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Catchall_PLA-71700000014585962-58700001236285396-92700067144412335&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwM2m_8aJ9AIVM2tvBB01swotEAQYBCABEgIoYPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

If I were you I would call pinball resource and get a rectifier kit. 70 bucks. You will have to solder the connections to back but it also comes with new female connectors and pins. That burned pin on that connector should be replaced. I want to say that’s the bus for the GI.

The one from Pinball Life is good and has all the connectors and new pins.
You're going to need a crimper and learn to crimp those connectos on the wires that go to the molex connectors.
Especially those two with the burns, you could probably get away with just replacing those two pins for now.
Those are the GI (general illumination lights) I believe. Pretty common for those to get toasty in older games
Once you replace those pins and the board, it will be good to go. Then you can find out if any of the other boards need repair or replacement!

https://nvram.weebly.com/bally---stern-rectifier.html

If you're feeling like learning

Although you'd probably like to have a soldering station to do that.

Practice your soldering. You can do it. I was once like you, and didn't know how either. You need to know how to solder, and rebuild connectors. I recommend using solder with lead in it if you can find it. I still find some at Auto Zone that has the lead. Plus learn how to un-solder too. I use the braid stuff, but I do have several solder suckers too. Good luck! You have some great machines there..........

You have eight old pins. You will be soldering and crimping, unless you decide to pay someone else to complete these tasks. I will simply add that it's worth picking up the right tools, if you feel confident that you will be in this hobby for a while. I was able to find a decent used soldering station and I splurged on a Hakko 808(?) desoldering gun (so much better than a braid or inexpensive solder sucker). Board work was much easier with better equipment, if you have the budget for it. That said, plenty of people get by with less expensive equipment.

Replacing the rectifier board and repinning the molex connectors is standard rehab procedure for these old games.

Congratulations on the eight pins and have fun learning the skills above.

Steve

Practice. And Youtube has plenty of short how to videos.

LTG : )

I would get a solder sucker for sure when doing board work like this.

I run a cheaper https://www.amazon.com/MOGAOPI-Solder-Desoldering-nozzle-Remover/dp/B08QW6HVX2/ref=sxin_14_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa
But that one has good reviews if you have the cash.

That one doesn't have a guard on top to protect you when you release the plunger/suction up. Sure as I'm sitting here it will smack you in the eye.

TheLaw's link has one with the safety guard.

LTG : )

I ordered this solder/desoldering station from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RTXCHGV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Some of the best money (~$150) I have spent in the hobby. Makes a lot of board repairs so much easier.

I've used both the Anarchy PCB rectifier board and the Homepin rectifier board in my Trident and Meteor respectively, and they both work great.

Anarchy PCB (https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-100-0070-00)
Homepin (https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AS-2518-18)

if your testing to see if the rectifier board is working it's best to check the test points with a multi meter first.

no third flash on the Meteor mpu is most likely related to either or both the 5101's at U8 7 U13.

but essentially if you are just testing to see if the mpu board is okay you only need to connect J4 on mpu board.

if you are missing the 7th flash most likely the 43VDC is missing.

Meteor and Big Game have different jumpers and ROM's, so a Big Game mpu won't work in a Meteor and vice versa.

This is the best way to go...learn and repair as you go! They are super easy to put together! And new wires to the transformer while your in the neighborhood!
I put these in every old pin I get....which is all I have...best of luck to you!