(Topic ID: 243913)

Meteor: F6 3a slo blo fuse keeps blowing (was F4 5a)


By westofrome

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by westofrome
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You

Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979
#1 1 year ago

Was playing Meteor when the coils stopped working. Checked the fuses and F4 (5a) was toast. Replaced it and it blew immediately on powerup - I get the other beeps on the MPU, but cannot boot up completely. Pulled J1 and J3 off the rectifier board and tried with another 5a which blew immediately on powerup again.

Before I run through any more 5a fuses, what should I check? I cannot find any shorts.

#2 1 year ago

Update, I checked the other fuses and the F6 was a 10a. When I put in a 3a slo blo that blows immediately on power on. At this point should I suspect J2 pins 6/7 as the issue?

#3 1 year ago

Br3 on the rectifier board is probably shorted blowing out f4.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballdaveh:

Br3 on the rectifier board is probably shorted blowing out f4.

I figured it was something like that, but if it's blowing F6 with the proper 3a slo blo rating it must be in the connector pins or header pins, no? Is F6 the first thing the power hits from the line?

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from westofrome:

I cannot find any shorts.

Without looking at it, I'm just spit balling but I'd check for continuity between TP5, F4 etc... and the 120 volt circuit ( J2 6 & 7) at different points
and check the 120volt circuit to ground at different points. They could be tied together, but it could just be a coincidence and you have two separate issues.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

Without looking at it, I'm just spit balling but I'd check for continuity between TP5, F4 etc... and the 120 volt circuit ( J2 6 & 7) at different points
and check the 120volt circuit to ground at different points. They could be tied together, but it could just be a coincidence and you have two separate issues.

It makes sense that they are two separate issues, and that the 10a at F6 was masking an underlying issue; the BR could well have shorted causing F4 to blow.

But now that I see a 3a slo blo is frying at F6, I'd like to solve that first. Since the AC is coming in through J2/6 and then running directly to the blowing F6 3a slo blo, what could be causing that to blow? A bad varistor? It seems like a bad pin or header at J2/6 would only reduce current, not increase it.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from westofrome:

slo blo, what could be causing that to blow? A bad varistor? It seems like a bad pin or header at J2/6 would only reduce current, not increase it.

I had that happen once, but usually the varistor will fry first.

Start by isolating your line cord and move back that way, could be something as simple as a jacked line cord. On some of these older machines it wouldn't surprise me. One of the first things I do with games is replace the whole line cord with a new molded one.

#8 1 year ago

Yeah, my varistor is fine.

I tried a suggestion I found in another similar thread - I pulled all fuses except F6, with only J2 plugged in. Powered on and the fuse did not blow, got a power hum, so apparently something down the line causing the F6 to blow.

At this point, I'm suspecting the BRs. I will likely put in a new Weebly board, since the headers are also crispy in places and I'd just as well start with a new, beefed up board. I'll report back with the results.

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