(Topic ID: 105354)

Meteor Drop Bank Won't Reset

By CUJO

9 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 75 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Quench
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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Linked Games

  • Meteor Stern Electronics, 1979

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19_LOGIC_PROBE_EISTAR.pdf (PDF preview)
19_LOGIC_PROBE_EISTAR.pdf (PDF preview)

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#2 9 years ago

Do they reset at new game start?

#4 9 years ago

OK, if you got through the tests, they probably won't reset then either.

Pull the glass and (take the ball out) raise the playfield up on the kickstand. Push the reset plate up towards the playfield. The targets should get pushed up and latch in place.

If the reset plate won't move, the sleeve is probably melted by a shorted drive transistor (new coil, sleeve and driver trannies).

If they reset by hand smoothly, you have a loss of power or ground (ON signal) to the coil.

Measure DC Volts at the lugs of the coil. It should have the same reading on both lugs...the same as any other coil nearby you can measure for reference.

If you have voltage at both lugs of the coil (no broken wires), put the playfield back down and pull the backglass. Refer to manual and locate the header pin for that coil (Sol # whatever). Using a jumper, hold one end on that header pin and tap the other end quickly on the ground braid. It will probably spark. That is normal. Don't hold the lead on the ground braid more than one second.

Let us know what you discover.

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from CUJO:

So drop bank #3 is controlled by Q13 on the power driver board?
When you test for power at the coil, there shouldn't be any there all the time, right? Only when the bank resets.

No, you will see potential (Solenoid B+) on both lugs at rest since it's just a piece of wire. When the tranny fires, it provides a path to ground and then the coil becomes a "load". At that instant when the coil fires, one lug will still be potential and the other lug will be ground (through the wire back through the tranny to ground on the solenoid driver board.

1 year later
#44 8 years ago

No, flipper switches totally isolated from switch matrix.

Flipper button and EOS switches should be filed occasionally to eliminate pitting and build-up.

You can use a 2.2uFarad 250V NON-POLARIZED cap on both the flipper button and EOS switches....if I remember accurately.

4 months later
#55 7 years ago

On a Bally U3 drives Q13. The Stern is a clone of the Bally, so it *should* be the same.

Before you cut out that chip use your logic probe or meter to try to isolate the failure to that chip.

Pull the playfield glass.
Reset the target bank.
Start up a game.
Thump the targets one at a time. After each one goes down, verify sounds and score are generated.
Tap a jumper from ground to Q13's tab to reset target bank.
Probe U3 pin 12. Keep it there and drop all the targets.
The signal at 12 should toggle very quickly.
The meter will respond by displaying the value change, then return to the reading before the targets were dropped.
A logic probe will respond by blinking its LEDs.

Probably a better description over at pinwiki.com

Try to nail down the failure before destroying a getting-harder-to-find component.

IMO

#60 7 years ago

And you didn't kill what turned out to be a good component! Good job.

Enjoy it, it's a great game.

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